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Brass Sheets Substitute


nogoodnamesleft

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You can still damage a nib slit with Brass.

 

You just have to work at it a bit more.

 

 

Nothing is foolproof to the sufficiently persistent fool.

 

Bruce in Ocala, Fl

But of course, you could damage it with some thin plastic too, just gotta work at it :D

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I dont know the name in english, but I use this cheap tool:

 

http://www.happydo.it/utensili/strumenti-di-misura/spessimetro-20-lame-beta/8585/

 

It cost few euros, it has different thikness, is very small and handly.

 

I dont see the reason to buy single sheets, when you can have and use such a handly tool.

 

I think I have a set of those - commonly referred to as a spark plug gap gauge. Us old guys will remember also using them to set points on distributor caps. I wasn't aware that they went down far enough for our purpose on pens.

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I think I have a set of those - commonly referred to as a spark plug gap gauge. Us old guys will remember also using them to set points on distributor caps. I wasn't aware that they went down far enough for our purpose on pens.

Yes, "...us old guys....." ,,!

 

Anyhow, this os s perfect tool for this purpose.

Blades are smooth and rounded, so that are easy ti insert among the nib point.

Different thikness allows to be very carefull in opening the nib points.

After use, is a very compact tool.

I payed mine few euros.

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I think I have a set of those - commonly referred to as a spark plug gap gauge. Us old guys will remember also using them to set points on distributor caps. I wasn't aware that they went down far enough for our purpose on pens.

I'm not old, but I've still got to gap my points every time I do a tune up (or a little sand paper if the truck doesn't want to start up in the morning...)

Parker 51 Aerometric (F), Sheaffer Snorkel Clipper (PdAg F), Sheaffer Snorkel Statesman (M), red striated Sheaffer Balance Jr. (XF), Sheaffer Snorkel Statesman desk set (M), Reform 1745 (F), Jinhao x450 (M), Parker Vector (F), Pilot 78g (F), Pilot Metropolitan (M), Esterbrook LJ (9555 F), Sheaffer No-Nonsense calligraphy set (F, M, B Italic), Sheaffer School Pen (M), Sheaffer Touchdown Cadet (M), Sheaffer Fineline (341 F), Baoer 388 (F), Wearever lever-filler (M).

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With old VW beetles, if you folded over a matchbook cover, THAT was the proper gapper for a spark plug.

 

Bruce in Ocala, Fl

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If you every buy electronics or mid-range valuable stuff from a retail store, you will see a tiny rectangular sticker (http://www.anti-theftlabel.com/photo/pl731331-anti_shoplifting_insert_dr_label_printed_barcode_labels_45mm_label_length.jpg) somewhere as an anti-theft tool. If you peel one off and remove the white plastic covering, you'll find two strips of thin metal sheets. That's what I've been using and they work really well!

 

I've used these for several years for modern and vintage nibs. They seem to work very well. Like anything, use carefully an ideally practice with something "throw-away-able".

“Don't put off till tomorrow what you can do today, because if you do it today and like it, you can do again tomorrow!”

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I use the metal from the safety tags. Tried aluminum from a can and it is way too thick. I am not sure if there are thinner cans, but I wouldn't advise this since most people wouldn't be able to judge if it is too thick for the job.

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I dont know the name in english, but I use this cheap tool:

 

http://www.happydo.it/utensili/strumenti-di-misura/spessimetro-20-lame-beta/8585/

 

It cost few euros, it has different thikness, is very small and handly.

 

I dont see the reason to buy single sheets, when you can have and use such a handly tool.

 

It is called a "Feeler Gauge" or "Feeler Gauge Set" in American English.

 

Only the two or three thinnest gauges in the typical set will be useful for fountain pen nib work, These are hardened steel and are typically coated in packing grease straight out of the box or package. Cheap sets can have rough edges.

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As the gap between tines should be somewhere between 0.1 and 0.2 mm (0.004" and 0.008"), approximately anyway, using anything thicker than this will affect ink flow.

 

So best to use brass sheets, or brass feeler gauges which are thinner, or SS feeler gauges if you can't get any other.

Generally speaking, plastic and celluloid sheets are thicker than brass sheets or the thinnest feeler gauges, even overhead transparencies - I use those to increase ink flow, not for flossing.

I won't even talk about exacto and hobby knives, or razor blades. It is the easiest way to damage a nib that way. It will likely work several times, until one day it goes horribly wrong for whatever reason - not recommended IOW. The metal is just too hard for gold nibs, and too sharp and more hardened quite often than steel nibs.

 

Having said all this, from my experience, it is easiest and most convenient to use tissue paper. Just wipe the nib, holding it between a few layers of tissue paper, downward. You may need to do this a few times, but for me this has always worked fine, and is by definition non-intrusive, and neither does it affect ink flow.

 

HTH, warm regards, Wim

the Mad Dutchman
laugh a little, love a little, live a lot; laugh a lot, love a lot, live forever

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I, too, use the "tissue paper" method of cleaning clogged nibs. Haven't needed a brass sheet yet and it has been a few years at least into the hobby for me. Deeper clogs involve disassembly and a toothbrush. I must admit, I am scared to mess up my nibs with metal shims and the like.I'm heavy handed.

"Do you know the legend about cicadas? They say they are the souls of poets who cannot keep quiet because, when they were alive, they never wrote the poems they wanted to."

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  • 8 months later...

If you every buy electronics or mid-range valuable stuff from a retail store, you will see a tiny rectangular sticker (http://www.anti-theftlabel.com/photo/pl731331-anti_shoplifting_insert_dr_label_printed_barcode_labels_45mm_label_length.jpg) somewhere as an anti-theft tool. If you peel one off and remove the white plastic covering, you'll find two strips of thin metal sheets. That's what I've been using and they work really well!

 

Thank you for this wonderful suggestion. It worked on my Waterman 14 eyedropper which only wrote with Waterman Florida Blue, maybe because it is very free flowing. Now I can use it with any of my inks. Thanks again, you`ve made my day.

Parker 51 Vacumatic 0.7 Masuyama stub; TWSBI 540 M; TWSBI 580 1.1; Mabie, Todd and Bard 3200 stub; Waterman 14 Eyedropper F; 2 x Hero 616; several flexible dip nibs

owned for a time: Parker 45 flighter Pendleton stub, Parker 51 aerometric F, Parker 51 Special 0.7 Binder stub, Sheaffer Valiant Snorkel M, Lamy Joy Calligraphy 1.5 mm, Pelikan M200 M, Parker Vacumatic US Azure Blue M, Parker Vacumatic Canada Burgundy F, Waterman 12 Eyedropper, Mabie Todd SF2 flexible F

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As the gap between tines should be somewhere between 0.1 and 0.2 mm (0.004" and 0.008"), approximately anyway, using anything thicker than this will affect ink flow.

I think what you mean is 0.001-0.002 inch.

 

For nib slit cleaning, I cut out a small square of Rhodia or Clairefontaine paper. This paper is tougher than regular paper and doesn't shred easily. The gap at the tips is smaller than the paper, so what I do is stick a corner of this paper in the slit near the breather hole, and then pull the little sheet towards the tips.

 

If you intend to use any kind of sheet metal, I suggest you sandpaper the edges of that sheet metal first to put a very slight bevel on the edge.

 

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As far as scratching goes, brass is 3 on the hardness scale and 14K gold is 3-4. 18K gold is even softer.

 

Looking for a black SJ Transitional Esterbrook Pen. (It's smaller than an sj)

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  • 1 month later...

Thanks so much for the info about the security things. I didn't want to spend 10 bucks for 3 one cent brass sheets, so found a security thing in a box and got the 2 really thin little strips inside. They work really well for flossing my new 78G and Metro F tips that had fibers from super cheap legal pad paper.

 

Blessed are they that do his commandments, that they may have right

to the tree of life, and may enter in through the gates into the city.

For without are dogs, and sorcerers, and whoremongers, and murderers,

and idolaters, and whosoever loveth and maketh a lie. Revelation 22:14-15

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Not a spark gap gauge, but more accurately name "feeler gauges"?

uh, yes, it is better known as a spark plug gap gauge.

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I've always used a gap gauge. However, it did concern me to read that it will likely work just fine several times until something goes horribly wrong. I like WIMS suggestion of tissue paper but I don't think my hand is steady enough to get a piece of tissue paper to go between the tines. On a good day, I might be able to employ Beanbags suggestion.

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I like the feeler guages also for flossing nibs. With the feeler guage I know exactly what thickness I am using. Brass shim sheets unlabeled, if you aren't sure of the thickness, increases the FUD (fear, uncertainty and doubt) Factor. I have a feeler guage set with both brass and stainless steel guages.

 

Post-It yellow stickies have worked in a pinch, and other paper also. It gets stuff out of the area between tines. Frankly it has seldom been necessary for me to floss nibs. I like taking the nib out and soaking nib and feed better.

 

I have long since quit using a knife between tines. The posts about doing harm should be a deterrent.

Edited by pajaro

"Don't hurry, don't worry. It's better to be late at the Golden Gate than to arrive in Hell on time."
--Sign in a bar and grill, Ormond Beach, Florida, 1960.

 

 

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