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Knockout block


deitic_nib

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What is a knockout block, and what does it do?

How do you use one? Can I take out a feed this way, if so how? Is there an alternative method to taking a feed out?

 

Thanks,

Victor

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A Knockout block is a piece of wood or metal (usually aluminum) with holes drilled in it for removing the nib and feed from a section. Rods of some sort (again, wood or metal) are used to knock out the nib and feed from the inside. The section assembly with nib and feed are placed over the hole that will allow the nib and feed to enter the hole easily but will not allow the section to fit into the hole. Then you put the rod inside the section and, using a mallet, GENTLY knock-out the nib and feed. The section must have already been removed from the pen.

 

You can sometimes pull a nib and feed from the outside, but you really run the risk of cracking the nib.

 

There are good examples for sale at Pendomonium, Fountain Pen Hospital, Tryphon.com and other places. You can also make one by drilling a series of holes in a sturdy block of wood.

 

And of course, heating and or soaking are always helpful. Be careful soaking if there is any risk that the section is hard rubber or casein (did anyone make sections out of casein?), and follow David Nishimura's maxim "Never work a joint cold".

 

Some feeds, such as Parker Lucky Curve feeds and Sheaffer feeds with the extension out the back, can be easily broken using this method because they do not have a flat back to them. I would also be very cautious with some of the older feeds found on Wirts and some other models. Basically, if there isn't a nice flat back to the feed, be extremely cautious before knocking out the feed.

 

John

Edited by Johnny Appleseed

So if you have a lot of ink,

You should get a Yink, I think.

 

- Dr Suess

 

Always looking for pens by Baird-North, Charles Ingersoll, and nibs marked "CHI"

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QUOTE (deitic_nib @ Mar 13 2007, 04:47 PM)
What is a knockout block, and what does it do?
How do you use one? Can I take out a feed this way, if so how? Is there an alternative method to taking a feed out?

Thanks,
Victor

Go to Ron Zorn's Articles on Pen Repair page and you will get all the info you need.

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I used a knockout block (from the tools in my husband's shop) for the first time this weekend. It was SO easy to get the feeds and rusty nibs out of these 2 old pens I wanted to fix. I'm not a mechanically oriented person but this was simple even for me. wink.gif

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I've been able to pull out the nib and feed on a couple pens with loose nibs (a Sheaffer and an Esterbrook), but even a makeshift knockout block is much better.

 

I've always been able to re-seat the nib and feed with finger power, though.

 

Esterbrook re-new points are a problem, though -- the screw in section is often smaller than the nib, so unless you want to leave it in the section and risk driving the threads out, you must use a slot of some sort to accomodate the nib.

 

Peter

Edited by psfred
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QUOTE (psfred @ Mar 13 2007, 09:29 PM)
Esterbrook re-new points are a problem, though -- the screw in section is often smaller than the nib, so unless you want to leave it in the section and risk driving the threads out, you must use a slot of some sort to accomodate the nib.

You're right, you'd have to have the nib assembly screwed into the section to knock it out. But there's something else too Peter!

 

Take a look at the underside of the threaded collar on an Esterbrook. On most there is a spot where it is pressed in. This engages a notch in the feed, and keeps the feed from rotating in the collar. If you just knock it out, you'll break off that part of the collar.

 

Try wiggling the nib out of the collar while screwed into the section. If you can get it out, you can then rotate the feed so that the notch is in a different position, then pull the feed out. When you reset the nib and feed, make sure that you line things up again to lock the feed into place.

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Thanks Ron.

 

Not a problem on the ones I've had apart, as the nib was loose, the reason for pulling it.

 

I've found several that I'll have to work on sometime (I don't use mediums) -- they click annoyingly in use and move around on the feed.

 

I'll watch for said locking notches!

 

Now if I can just get as much flex on my 9128 nib when it's writing smoothly as when the tines are misaligned....

 

Peter

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There is a list of pens that either can't use a standard knock-out block or need special precautions to use one:

 

Parker Lucky Curve - very hard to knock out without damaging

Esterbrook Renew-points - need special knock-out block hole

Sheaffer center-feeds - needs special knock-out rod

Any Sheaffer with the extended feed tube in the back - needs special knock-out rod

Parker 51, 61, 45, etc - different construction, does not apply

Safeties

Sheaffer Triumph nibs - threaded, can't knock out

Sheaffer inlaid nibs

Moore fingertips

probably any hooded or semi-hooded nib

I am sure there are many more.

 

John

So if you have a lot of ink,

You should get a Yink, I think.

 

- Dr Suess

 

Always looking for pens by Baird-North, Charles Ingersoll, and nibs marked "CHI"

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I took a look at some "loose" Estie re-new nibs today. They are, in some cases, strongly crimped, and I don't know if it is possible to knock out the feed without damaging the sleeve and/or the feed. Some have two and some have one crimp.

 

I guess since they were "disposable" nibs, repair wasn't as much of a consideration as not having the feed come loose or rotate.

 

Peter

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My experience has been that if heated first, the crimps knock out fairly easily without cracking the sleeves. And if heated after reseating/replacing the nib, the crimp can be restored into the notch to hold the sleeve once again.

 

YMMV.

 

Gerry

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At the cost of getting reprimanded - I have used "solution" to knock out block - Just get a bunch of cheap ball pens you do not even have to buy these - they are like AOL discs - all over the place - disassemble them all - they have diameters of different sizes - some will fit over the nib and rest on the section - as the block, some of those tubes could be used to knock from the feed end. Now the added advantage is some feeds have a feed tube - so the cylinder fits over it and knocks the feed without damaging the tube. Have to take care not to damage the nib / feed / your hands. Soaking is always a good idea. Pulling out the feed can make it crack so that is not preffered - though you may get away with it in some cases.

Thanks for your time,

badrsj

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  • 2 years later...

A Knockout block is a piece of wood or metal (usually aluminum) with holes drilled in it for removing the nib and feed from a section.

 

You can also make one by drilling a series of holes in a sturdy block of wood.

 

I have an oversized piece of seasoned maple that I would like to make into a knockout block. What size should I cut it down to, and what size holes do you recommend I drill into it?

 

Thanks,

Jared

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