Want A Free Montblanc Legrand Fountain Pen?

[Pensieve]

Hello friends!

 

Has this link been removed? Somehow I can't get to the web page ...

[RMN]

Hello friends!

 

Has this link been removed? Somehow I can't get to the web page ...

Which link?

 

D.ick

[efchem]

The link in the first post on page one worked for me.

[TXKat]

Is this what you're looking for?

 

http://www.montblancpenpolish.com/FPN.html

[Ceelo]

I'll give it a whirl. Ordered.

[FedericoMedina]

Ordered a kit last Sunday can't wait

[TLMG]

Only 3 more days until the contest is over! Hop on in!

[zchen]

ordered a set today.....

[skippymyman]

Skippy,

 

Sorry for the long wait for a reply. As a lot of you know, my mom was diagnosed with stage 4 ovarian cancer a while back so that has been eating up a lot of my time and sanity.

Anyway, there are a crazy amount of differences between the three-step polish system and a cape cod cloth or a run-of-the-mill scratch remover like simichrome, etc.

First off, this is a three step system... It isn't one item that tries to do everything, it is three specific items that have been formulated to be the best at what they do.

 

The Step #0 (scratch remover) is a diminishing abrasive which means you never need to worry about over-polishing or damaging the finish. It also works itself down to a smooth finish (aka, it works down to a finer and finer grit each swipe you make.)

 

The Steps #1 and #2 work together as non-abrasive cleaners and shine enhancers. At the same time, they add a layer of protection to stop more damage from working its way to your pen.

 

All in all, you're talking apples and oranges... or a "crazy guy with a shotgun" (cape cod, simichrome, etc.) and a three man tactical team (the three step polish system).

 

The pictures you're seeing above speak volumes-- for example, using cape cod on the gold portion of the pen would have just removed all the gold plating and led to either brassing or "silvering", depending on what version it was.

 

Sounds like the same concept as Cape Cod for stage one (mild abrasive), then steps two and three is what? Silicone? The industry standard on the old gold plating used to be much thicker than the industry standard today (20-40 microns versus 8 today). So as far as a cape cod taking off the old gold plating, sorry, I don't see it, not even on the newer pens. I have lightly polished up 8 micron metal with no issues (given, I don't suggest polishing much). As long as you use a mild abrasive (like cape cod), and don't go crazy polishing (nor polish often), you won't have a bad time.

Edited October 1, 2014 by skippymyman

[TLMG]

You're entitled to your own opinion. However, Cape Cod Cloths are not diminishing abrasives. They also contain petroleum distillates-- which I'm sure you know is a no-no for plastics and resins. And, of course, CCCs most definitey do remove plating very quickly and with little effort: that is what abrasives do-- they remove material. I don't understand how saying "plating is much thinner today than ever before" is an argument that it won't be removed.

Anyway, like I said, different strokes for different folks. If you're happy with your CC cloth then, by all means, use it!

[skippymyman]

You're entitled to your own opinion. However, Cape Cod Cloths are not diminishing abrasives. They also contain petroleum distillates-- which I'm sure you know is a no-no for plastics and resins. And, of course, CCCs most definitey do remove plating very quickly and with little effort: that is what abrasives do-- they remove material. I don't understand how saying "plating is much thinner today than ever before" is an argument that it won't be removed.

 

Anyway, like I said, different strokes for different folks. If you're happy with your CC cloth then, by all means, use it!

I made the argument that it didn't remove a lot, not that it didn't remove any. Cape Cod cloths has been perfectly fine for my acrylics over the course of several years. Not all petroleum distillates are harmful to plastics anyways. That's a bit of a generalized statement, and not quite the truth (but yes, there are people who are scared of them on rubbers). Anyways, I would enjoy to hear an explanation of what your product actually is, besides just a 3 step system that polishes and protects (since you are willing to say what your competition has that is harmful)? Sorry if this is already on your website, but I didn't see it

Edited October 2, 2014 by skippymyman

[gert]

While I have no clue about resin or plastic polishing, Cape Cod definately comes with a risk of removing gold plating from metal. Wouldn't want to use that on a gold plated watch case, t.ex. Also, if you need Cape Cod, you often have a small scratch, dent or other damage, and Cape Cod can easily eat away the plating at the edgaes of the dent/scratch you polish if it is not thick.

 

An important thing to consider is that 1 micron (and even below) is pretty common on cheaper GP. And as long as you don't know the thickness of the plating, it's a high risk opreation touching it with cape cod. Marking the thickness of GP is not mandatory, though those who give it a good coat sometimes mention the thickness. In my opnion, valuable metals should be solid, or one should just use another material if that is too expensive. But at least one should avoid anything below 10 microns if the object is to be used and not just sit on the mantelpiece. At 10 microns Cape Cod would probably be safe enough for some uses (except for buffing out scratches and dings), but who knows if the previous owner did it once, or twice, or four times? It is an excellent product for solid materials though, as long as one uses a cotton bud or similar/softer material for the final finish - the supplied cloths are too coarse, and will actually leave hairlines visible with close scrutiny even without magnifiction (at least on steel).

 

Semi-not-relevant to the thread and the questions abouth THIS product, but still.

 

As an added info, in the "old days" objects were typically Gold Rolled or Gold Filled, and not (electro) plated - those methods usually adds a lot more metal than even thick platings do.

[skippymyman]

While I have no clue about resin or plastic polishing, Cape Cod definately comes with a risk of removing gold plating from metal. Wouldn't want to use that on a gold plated watch case, t.ex. Also, if you need Cape Cod, you often have a small scratch, dent or other damage, and Cape Cod can easily eat away the plating at the edgaes of the dent/scratch you polish if it is not thick.

 

An important thing to consider is that 1 micron (and even below) is pretty common on cheaper GP. And as long as you don't know the thickness of the plating, it's a high risk opreation touching it with cape cod. Marking the thickness of GP is not mandatory, though those who give it a good coat sometimes mention the thickness. In my opnion, valuable metals should be solid, or one should just use another material if that is too expensive. But at least one should avoid anything below 10 microns if the object is to be used and not just sit on the mantelpiece. At 10 microns Cape Cod would probably be safe enough for some uses (except for buffing out scratches and dings), but who knows if the previous owner did it once, or twice, or four times? It is an excellent product for solid materials though, as long as one uses a cotton bud or similar/softer material for the final finish - the supplied cloths are too coarse, and will actually leave hairlines visible with close scrutiny even without magnifiction (at least on steel).

 

Semi-not-relevant to the thread and the questions abouth THIS product, but still.

 

As an added info, in the "old days" objects were typically Gold Rolled or Gold Filled, and not (electro) plated - those methods usually adds a lot more metal than even thick platings do.

 

Absolutely, you should use caution any time you put an abrasive on gold plating. What I was trying to say (forgive me if I was not clear), was that as long as you weren't trying to do much polishing with an abrasive on gold plating (touchup microscratches), it would more than likely be OKAY to do a swipe or two with a Cape Cod and then lightly buff with a cotton cloth. I've done this on many things with no ill effects as of yet, because I don't sit there like an idiot polishing it away. I KNOW it isn't solid. Keep in mind, the first step of the unknown chemical liquid for sale (or seemingly a raffle ticket in this case, whatever you want to call it) in this thread, is an abrasive.

[TXKat]

You don't need to even use the abrasive step for this kit if you aren't trying to remove microscratches. That step is labeled 0. Step one is the cleaner/polisher and step 2 is the protectant. Step zero is only if needed, not mandatory to make things work.

 

I've used this kit on three vintage pens and they all look beautiful now. They were rather rough before hand, but they had been "polished" before I got them. (Not such a great polish job imho.)

[marie9999]

Who won?

[TLMG]

Contest is done! Waiting for everone to get their packages before I do the drawing-- that way I know everyone is happy and everything wen't smoothly :-)

[Aneurysm]

Please check your PM

[Ceelo]

Received, will let everyone know how it goes once I've attempted on a couple of pens.

[Pamurimaharaj]

yes for sure

[TLMG]

Hey everyone!

 

Everyone has gotten their orders, I beleive, and I have "drawn" the winner of the MontBlanc LeGrand Fountain Pen!

 

Here's how I did it to be fair: I made a list of everyone's orders and gave each order an individual "line" in excel. The list was from most recent to earliest order.

 

Next, I headed to random.org and used the random number generator to determine who the winner would was.

 

Without further adieu, the winner is: Karin G. from Ontario, Canada! I've sent you an email to get this all up and running!

 

To everyone else, I've loved running this little contest and giving back in a way and I'll try to find other ways to continue this! :-)