Restoring And Customising A Briefcase

[my63]

77kath you are correct the suede will wear over time so I will stick with the leather. I have more dye now so it will be the correct colour soon.

Thanks goatgolfer the small details are the important ones saddle stitch is not as easy as it sounds both needles have to pass through the holes in exactly the same place every time. There are six stitches in every inch and there are lots in inches in each case it takes me a few days to sew one together.

The time for assembly is fast approaching saddle stitch requires 4 times the distance in thread for every foot of stitching you need four feet of thread. the front and rear require 16 feet of thread each and I don't like to have any joints so starting off is fun.

 

leather edges are interesting and I will show you how they are finished.

[goatgolfer]

See, it's the no joints element that I didn't know and will now look for in leather products and hope you will point out as you progress.

[my63]

Don't get me wrong there is nothing wrong with joints in stitching it is just my thing that I don't like them I would rather struggle with really long threads that tangle and twist than have a joint. I have re sewn more than one project because the thread was too short. If a joint s done well you will find it difficult to see.

I will add joints to my list of pictures and try to show what they look like.

[my63]

I thought I would share some more detail on the strap pad.

After gluing the two pieces of leather together I cut out the required shape decided where the slots were going to go punched the holes and cut the slots. I used a special tool to make a grove around the inside of the cut line the distance was the thickness of the leather.

In this picture you can see the pad with the tool I used to mark out the stitches it is a punch and will go through the leather quite easil

 

DSC_0009[1] by my0771, on Flickr

 

These are my awls well two of them (I have quite a few now)

 

DSC_0012[1] by my0771, on Flickr

 

Although the awls look the same they are different sizes only the point and first 5 mm are sharpened. Not only are they sharp but I have polished them on an strop they will pierce thick leather quite easily. They also go through human skin too.

 

DSC_0020[1] by my0771, on Flickr

 

Once marked with the punch I use the awl to finish the hole to the required size for the thread and needle.

 

I have adapted my sewing method to suit my disability so I am not going to tell you how I sew Nigel Armitage is the best teacher.

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TGuiha5S2oE

[Intellidepth]

Hi Michael, I've enjoyed reading this thread right from the beginning over the last 2 days. I've learned a lot, not the least of which is the inspirational beauty in your repair and restoration work as well as the emotional/historical value for everyone.

 

I don't recall seeing pics/description of how the brass buckle was aged with vinegar - did I blink and miss a post? I was also intrigued as to how you got your stitches so even, but now I know . I'd love to see a pic of your 14 or 16 foot threads. (As a domestic sewer who struggles with a couple of yards of clothing thread, I just can't imagine keeping that extreme length in order without serious frustration!)

 

Thank you for the care you've taken along the way to journal and photograph your journey. Fascinating.

[my63]

Hi Intellidepth

Thanks for the comments, You know I had to go back and look for those buckles I could not remember which project they were for if I remember correctly the buckles were intended for the first Pendragon case. It would appear that brass plated items do indeed take on an antiqued look when soaked in white vinegar. however the products I use would not change in anyway when soaked in the vinegar.

Rather than use other products I decided to celebrate the new addition to the case and leave the new brass shinny.

 

Sewing with the really long threads is not easy the longest I have used is four of my arm spans (pulling the thread hand to hand across my chest) which is 20 ft.

 

I will take a picture of the thread before I start

 

Michael

[Intellidepth]

Thanks - look forward to it.

[my63]

Sewing larger projects is difficult especially for me "proper" leather workers have clams for holding their work these are quite expensive and I don't have a budget for more tools at the moment.

I was discussing this with a friend earlier this week I mentioned I was going to try to make one by laminating some plywood into the correct curved shape, He suggested I go to the barrel makers over the river and buy some staves the curved pieces of oak that make up a barrel.

 

DSC_0023[1] by my0771, on Flickr

 

This barrel had previously been the home to a very large quantity of red wine

 

DSC_0027[1] by my0771, on Flickr

 

After some serious sanding without removing all of the character and a little trimming followed by some wax

 

DSC_0032[1] by my0771, on Flickr

 

I added a piece of heavy leather to the bottom as a hinge and some extra leather on the top of each stave

 

DSC_0034[1] by my0771, on Flickr

 

Once I have worked out how I am going to fasten the staves together when in use I can start sewing actually I may just tie a piece of leather around it for now

[my63]

A promised here is a picture of my thread before I started sewing the strap edges as my arm span is 5 ft 6 inches and I used four lengths this thread is 22 ft long.

I had planned to sew this in two sections hiding the joints under the strap pad in the centre.

 

DSC_0050[1] by my0771, on Flickr

 

As I approached the first joint I realised my rough thread measuring technique was a little too rough. Not wishing to waste any thread I decided to carry on sewing and make a joint

 

DSC_0052[1] by my0771, on Flickr

 

Here is the joint in the picture above I don't think it looks too bad.

[Anne-Sophie]

Your ability to reproduce antique leather colors, your invisible stitching joints and your endless way of finding ways around a tight budget are all positively impressive!

[my63]

Thanks Anne-Sophie

Here is the finished saddle clam the barrel staves were a little on the short side so I cut two pieces of oak and shaped the bottom and screwed it to the bottom of the staves it also adds a little spring to keep the staves tighter together.

 

DSC_0055[1] by my0771, on Flickr

 

The strap is now complete with matching buckles on each side

 

DSC_0059[1] by my0771, on Flickr

 

DSC_0060[1] by my0771, on Flickr

 

This length is 46 inches I am going to add some extra holes to allow the length to be adjusted in 1 inch increments up to 50 inches in length.

 

The next step is to use the new clam to start re assembly of the case.

[my63]

Before I start re assembly I though I would share a couple of pictures of all the pieces the strap looked a different colour in the light tonight although it is better in the second picture.

 

DSC_0071[1] by my0771, on Flickr

 

DSC_0073[1] by my0771, on Flickr

 

Thanks for looking

 

Michael

[my63]

I wanted to share the news I have finished sewing the green case back together. I must have angered the camera gods as none of mine will work at the moment.

 

The final job is to trim and finish the edges and a polish

 

Pictures will follow

[Anne-Sophie]

Before I start re assembly I though I would share a couple of pictures of all the pieces the strap looked a different colour in the light tonight although it is better in the second picture.

 

DSC_0071[1] by my0771, on Flickr

 

DSC_0073[1] by my0771, on Flickr

 

Thanks for looking

 

Michael

 

The briefcase has such the perfect pairing of antique/classical lines and leather material with updated lining and matching stitching, who knew that someone could make updated restoration that blend vintage and contemporary influences so perfectly!

[my63]

Thanks Anne-Sophie

 

Here are the final pictures of the Green Pendragon document case

 

DSC_0082[1] by my0771, on Flickr

 

DSC_0085[1] by my0771, on Flickr

 

DSC_0087[1] by my0771, on Flickr

 

I think it has turned out really well the strap does look new compared to the rest of the case but it is new so I think it is ok.

 

This case will be listed in the classifieds section soon

 

Thanks for looking

 

Michael

[77kath]

Thanks for giving us a chance to buy it!

[my63]

As one project finishes another takes its place over the last week or so I have been spending time cleaning and removing thread and other build up from the USAAF case.

 

DSC_0088[1] by my0771, on Flickr

 

The front panel has been cleaned and given a light polish my camera is currently not speaking to my computer so I am using my phone for pictures the actual item is not glossy at all.

 

While removing the thread I discovered a sample that was intact although it was only an inch long I was able to unwind it. it was a linen thread with 4 strands with reverse twist (I had some help with that) I consulted a specialist supplier who advised me of the correct thread from the 1940 's would have most likely been a Barbour Irish linen thread which should arrive tomorrow.

[Anne-Sophie]

Thanks Anne-Sophie

 

Here are the final pictures of the Green Pendragon document case

 

DSC_0082[1] by my0771, on Flickr

 

DSC_0085[1] by my0771, on Flickr

 

DSC_0087[1] by my0771, on Flickr

 

I think it has turned out really well the strap does look new compared to the rest of the case but it is new so I think it is ok.

 

This case will be listed in the classifieds section soon

 

Thanks for looking

 

Michael

 

It is a beauty!

[my63]

I have started making the replacement straps for the USAAF case in keeping with the rest of the case the straps have some detail on them.

The detail is a pair of creases running parallel to the edges this crease is unusual as it is quite wide and originally was quite deep.

To replicate it on the new strap I have used a stitching grove tool to give the required detail.

 

DSC_0108[1] by my0771, on Flickr

 

Next I used an edge rounding tool on the edges

 

DSC_0110[1] by my0771, on Flickr

 

Now for the tricky bit dying I started with saddle tan

 

DSC_0112[1] by my0771, on Flickr

 

After some trial and error and a trip to the supplier I came to this

 

DSC_0116[1] by my0771, on Flickr

 

The title is boot brown but I think it is between saddle tan and brown although I did thin it by 50% I think another coat will do it.

[my63]

I have not done much over the last week while I recovered from some minor surgery.

To help me along I was looking for a small project to keep me busy many years ago I had a watch that I really liked but the strap kept wearing through where the padded areas met the buckle.

Anyway I found the watch and half of the strap in a drawer and thought I would have a go.

 

This is the original well half of it

 

DSC_0139[1] by my0771, on Flickr

 

Here is my first attempt at a replacement

 

DSC_0142[1] by my0771, on Flickr

 

My first watch strap I made the piece without the buckle longer but unfortunately not long enough as it does not fit my wrist

The dye also went a bit wonky.

 

DSC_0144[1] by my0771, on Flickr

 

Version two to follow soon

 

I also bought this and it was delivered today it is an English bridle hide made by J E Sedgewick it is larger than I planned on buying but that is the way leather is you tell them the size that you want and the send you a hide as close as possible to what you ordered usually bigger.

 

DSC_0146[1] by my0771, on Flickr

 

The colour is London Tan and it is going to be a brief case in fact it might well be two and some other small cases.

 

The thread for the USAAF case also came in the same package

 

DSC_0137[1] by my0771, on Flickr

 

Thanks for looking

 

Michael