Rohrer Antiktusche

[andreasn]

Hi. I bought two bottles of an ink called Rohrers antiktusche for calligraphy and maybe FP use.

I'm wondering if it actually is suitable for fountain pens since it's pigment ink.

 

They did say in the store that I bought it from that it is (they are an art supply store but also sell fountain pens). And it said on the inks website that it is suitable for all calligraphy tools including the Rotring artpen which as far as I know is a FP.

 

here is a link to the website:

http://www.rohrer-klingner.de/index.php?id=4&L=1

[Davros]

The website says it is acrylic based, which means that it is not fountain pen friendly.

[andreasn]

is the artpen then different to other fopuntain pens?

[Sandy1]

 

Hi,

 

I've used the Magic Color brand of acrylic ink in an expendable pen with good results, sometimes diluting them with a bit of water. (See the Ink Review Forum for more detail on those inks.)

 

One must treat the pen in the same way that one would treat a brush used with acrylic paint - do not let it dry out!

 

Even a capped pen can dry-out, so I keep the nib+feed immersed in water when I set it down, then when I want to start with it again, I'll daub the exposed nib+feed with a cloth and doodle until the ink flow is even.

 

At the first sign of misbehaviour during a session, clean the nib+feed.

 

I suggest using it for a specific bit of work, then disassemble the pen completely for clean-up: separating the nib from the feed seems necessary to clean the feed channel. Flossing between the tines of the nib is a good idea.

 

A jar of cleaner for technical/draughting pens, such as Koh-i-Noor Rapido-Eze, should be used after full-on water cleansing to ensure the last remnants of the ink are removed.

 

Not many FPs can be disassembled to that extent, but the Noodler's Ahab works well, is not costly, and the feed channel can be modified to increase the flow. (Tip: remove the breather tube.) Also, loose steel nibs for that pen are not costly, so modifying the wetness by adjusting the gap between the tines is a reasonable undertaking.

 

Please let us know how your adventure progresses.

 

Bye,

S1

Edited June 4, 2014 by Sandy1

[andreasn]

Thank you very much. based on the information I got on here and what i've dug up myself i think i'll be sticking to dip pens for this ink.

[Sandy1]

Thank you very much. based on the information I got on here and what i've dug up myself i think i'll be sticking to dip pens for this ink.

 

[Teacher Man]

Mh, another long dead thread on this subject. I am very interested in using inks from the Antiktusche range (and possibly some of the drawing inks) in rotring ArtPens and Isographs. The Rohrer & Klingner website seems to suggest that is possible. Does anyone have experience with that?

[Torrilin]

Sandy1 gave very clear instructions up thread for the cleaning regimen necessary to do “unsafe” inks without ruining a fountain pen. Be paranoid.

 

There are safe pigment inks that can be used in fountain pens but R&K doesn’t describe these particular inks as generally safe (unlike their Dokumentus and SketchINK lines). And they’re pretty reliable in the stuff they say is safe. Platinum and Sailor and de Atrementis are also reliable about pigment ink in fountain pens. It won’t be perfectly safe, but it won’t demand the cleaning regimen Sandy1 suggested. A more usual clean every time you refill should be adequate.

 

All of this presumes you’re using a modern pen that is easy to take apart and clean. A vintage pen with a sac or a complicated feed or one that can’t be fully taken apart... don’t risk it. And since this forum focuses on collecting, the advice will assume at least some of your pens are vintage and fragile.

 

If you want perfect ink freedom, use a dip pen. (Me, I want to draw in museums without terrifying the guards, so I’m gonna stick with my fountain pens)

[Teacher Man]

Thanks, Tomlin. Surely, guards at a museum should not be terrified of dip pens. If they should look at home anywhere, those dip pens, a museum must be the place, no? Anyhow, I don't think I would put these inks into any regular pens, but the isograph uses a fairly stubborn ink to begin with, so I thought it might be able to handle these...

[Torrilin]

Most (art) museums have a very sensible dry media only policy. So pencil, and everything else is up to the guards. Thus it pays to be nice to the guards. Museums with rocks or mustard or chocolate making equipment or animals have different rules.

 

Anyway there’s a bunch of solutions for the ink, just be prepared for some to take more cleaning.

[Teacher Man]

Cleaning is no problem. If I use weird inks in unsuitable instruments, I am prepared to put up with a lot. As long as there is a way. What I want to avoid is situations ehere there is no way but to burn the pen and move on.

[Arkanabar]

Stick to easily disassembled pens such as Noodler's Ahab and Konrad, or the entire line of FPR's pens, all of which are made for complete disassembly into component parts, such as this Jaipur:

 

 

I don't think that can be said of TWSBI -- AFAIK, their interchangeable nib units are assemblies themselves.