Carnauba Or Renaissance Wax?

[londonbooks]

Which one would be recommended for use on fountain pens?

[Cryptos]

I would be interested in the answer to this. Currently I use Renaissance wax on my swords and it performs flawlessly in protecting the blade from moisture from contact with skin. However, these are functional metal items. Pen bodies can be made from a number of different materials. I have heard, though unconfirmed, that RW may react with lacquered finishes. However, on most surfaces it can be easily removed with a little white spirit. In theory it should be perfect for pens as it leaves a microcrystalline coating that is completely transparent.

[Freddy]

Nei-ther nor anything..of course this is my personal pov..

and your mileage may vary.There is data that indicates

this stuff will cause harm to me pens....Good stuff on

swords/blades...other on me cars/motorcycles..et al.....

 

Redacting...

http://cool.conservation-us.org/coolaic/jaic/articles/jaic35-01-001.html

 

Note: Posts number 4 and 13.. and I concur with him

re wax.....

 

https://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/index.php/topic/155387-renaissance-wax-with-precious-resin/

 

 

Fred

my advise ..never sell a pen until you know how much it's worth..

and remember cash and wire transfers are king.....

 

Redactin': If You use these waxes..and sell...Consider disclosure

in your use of said products to your clients/buyers......20:59....

And Bob....some folks do Not want pens polished..in

some cases you will diminish the value of the pen....If you

are new at this...experiment on junk pens..first.....

Since your in the southern part..check this out.....

http://www.miamipenshow.com/

 

Edited June 1, 2014 by Freddy

[OcalaFlGuy]

What a hornet's nest thread.

 

Sure, I'll dance on the thin ice, why not.

 

I have used both. There are caveats Against both.

 

The SMARTER answer if you must use a polish is Ron Zorn's pen specific polish. It's not aggressive and it's specifically made for pens by someone who knows how to do that.

 

Most Carnauba wax Isn't 100% pure and may have solvents in it that aren't pen friendly. Especially avoid anything that is a Carnauba wax And Cleaner.

There were issues with Renaissance wax and some hard rubber that I never heard were resolved. The Pro's problems with RW IS it's permanence and that "little white spirits" to remove it may not be safe for some vintage pens.

 

Lastly a touchy point that isn't often mentioned.

 

Often, (not always, but often) the reason someone feels the need to polish a pen is because it's dull from lots of fine scratches. Covering up (more precisely, filling in) those scratches with a wax is a less than optimal "solution", more a band-aid than any solution really. The better answer if the material permits it and *if appearance is a high priority to the owner*, is to polish all or most of the scratches off, remove them and find a place to store the pen so that it isn't rescratched or rescratched very often.

 

There are lots of people who will tell you to just live with the scratches. (PS; they're usually Less Likely to want to do Just That with their Own Pens though thinks I...)

 

Bruce in Ocala, Fl

 

 

[Chrissy]

I have RW but I've never used it on a pen. Most of my pens are resin or plastic, so I suspect it might be OK.

 

However, I agree with Bruce in that trying to fill in scratches with something like RW wouldn't be ideal. I use a 2 part set that I bought from a member on here, and I also have Meguiars polish that I have tried with some success on a couple of scratched Parkers

[londonbooks]

Thanks for the info. You've given some good recommendations and I will definitely try some of these waxes and polishes. For those folks who say to live with the scratches - that's fine - but I sell some of the pens I purchase after I have used them for a while so their appearance is important and I try to get rid of scratches for a better selling price.

[GG917]

I also agree with Bruce, those wax are just for some sort of short term filling of the scratches. The wax will eventually wear off and scrachtes reappear.

 

I only polish my pen with micromesh sheets, then various polishes until mirror finish. And that is it.

[KAC]

Anyone tried this? http://www.novuspolish.com/

It was recommended to me along with this polishing sequence (which I haven't had the courage to try):

"3, 2, polish. It does not restore color. If color is faded I use a 1500 to 2000 grit wet dry sandpaper then Novus."

http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_1?url=search-alias%

3Daps&field-keywords=novus%20polish&sprefix=novus+po%

2Caps&rh=i%3Aaps%2Ck%3Anovus%20polish

[londonbooks]

Anyone tried this? http://www.novuspolish.com/

It was recommended to me along with this polishing sequence (which I haven't had the courage to try):

"3, 2, polish. It does not restore color. If color is faded I use a 1500 to 2000 grit wet dry sandpaper then Novus."

http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_1?url=search-alias%

3Daps&field-keywords=novus%20polish&sprefix=novus+po%

2Caps&rh=i%3Aaps%2Ck%3Anovus%20polish

 

How is Novus with scratches?

[londonbooks]

Nei-ther nor anything..of course this is my personal pov..

and your mileage may vary.There is data that indicates

this stuff will cause harm to me pens....Good stuff on

swords/blades...other on me cars/motorcycles..et al.....

 

Redacting...

http://cool.conservation-us.org/coolaic/jaic/articles/jaic35-01-001.html

 

Note: Posts number 4 and 13.. and I concur with him

re wax.....

 

https://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/index.php/topic/155387-renaissance-wax-with-precious-resin/

 

 

Fred

my advise ..never sell a pen until you know how much it's worth..

and remember cash and wire transfers are king.....

 

I've read the article and noticed that the experts recommend waxes with "micro-crystalline" blends for precious metal objects. RW is marketed and described as a " micro-crystalline wax polish" which really sounds like a great choice for the job.

[Gloucesterman]

Anyone tried this? http://www.novuspolish.com/

It was recommended to me along with this polishing sequence (which I haven't had the courage to try):

"3, 2, polish. It does not restore color. If color is faded I use a 1500 to 2000 grit wet dry sandpaper then Novus."

http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_1?url=search-alias%

3Daps&field-keywords=novus%20polish&sprefix=novus+po%

2Caps&rh=i%3Aaps%2Ck%3Anovus%20polish

 

+1

[pen2paper]

depends on the material, your perspective, your conscience as owner/salesperson, and what the pen world community accepts about keeping the alterations beyond natural wear with the pens history.

Not easy with anonymous world of auctions, and multiple viewpoints.

In conservation, action is to save for the future good for all to share in the ability to see old objects, As Was. And, actions to adjust are reversible. Again, not an easy task when you have creative people with ideas.

 

My roseglow I mentioned earlier needed a good clean, and looked new, but not so new, not zealously over cleaned, that it's full character and markings were disturbed in any way, Quite the opposite they were enhanced just to original appearance.

I was very pleased.

 

Other pieces I have will never be touched. In other collectible objects, its regular practice to use chemicals, and stick with hot needles to determine material, to charge a higher sales price. I'd stick a hot needle in my kid first. IOW's I don't have to do destructive extremes to know. I use other well known methods. Info gets passed around. Some good, some not so good. It belongs to you? your choice, but the info is out there to learn.

[dali3464]

The SMARTER answer if you must use a polish is Ron Zorn's pen specific polish. It's not aggressive and it's specifically made for pens by someone who knows how to do that.

 

 

^ I thoroughly agree. However, for those who may find shipping from the US restrictive, there's an excellent substitute (should be available in one's home country) used by a number of forum members (including fountainbel!): Micro-Gloss polish, the 5 micron variety for removing deeper scratches and the 1 micron variety for a glossy polish.

 

Insofar as I can tell, it's more-or-less the same (though probably not identical) with Ron Zorn's polish: micron abrasive suspended in a water-based solution with no solvents, so it's compatible with any and all materials used in pens. Though it's intended primarily as a plastic polish, I've also found that it's a very gentle and effective polish for metals as well. The 1 micron micro-gloss is far less abrasive than Simichrome, so it works better for particularly thin rolled gold or electroplated surfaces.

 

Another benefit is that it's not a particularly expensive polish either, and has effectively replaced everything else when it comes to polishing pens. Though, being the impatient person that I am, I still use Simichrome for removing heavy tarnish!

[Mickey]

What a hornet's nest thread.

 

Sure, I'll dance on the thin ice, why not.

 

I have used both. There are caveats Against both.

 

The SMARTER answer if you must use a polish is Ron Zorn's pen specific polish. It's not aggressive and it's specifically made for pens by someone who knows how to do that.

 

Most Carnauba wax Isn't 100% pure and may have solvents in it that aren't pen friendly. Especially avoid anything that is a Carnauba wax And Cleaner.

There were issues with Renaissance wax and some hard rubber that I never heard were resolved. The Pro's problems with RW IS it's permanence and that "little white spirits" to remove it may not be safe for some vintage pens.

 

Lastly a touchy point that isn't often mentioned.

 

Often, (not always, but often) the reason someone feels the need to polish a pen is because it's dull from lots of fine scratches. Covering up (more precisely, filling in) those scratches with a wax is a less than optimal "solution", more a band-aid than any solution really. The better answer if the material permits it and *if appearance is a high priority to the owner*, is to polish all or most of the scratches off, remove them and find a place to store the pen so that it isn't rescratched or rescratched very often.

 

There are lots of people who will tell you to just live with the scratches. (PS; they're usually Less Likely to want to do Just That with their Own Pens though thinks I...)

 

Bruce in Ocala, Fl

 

 

 

Allow me to add a subtle wrinkle to your thin ice. Wax, if used judiciously, is a sensible alternative to repeatedly polishing, a practice which will eventually remove fine details, like imprints. Wax also protects the surface, providing a barrier to liquids, as well as some sacrificial protection from micro scratches. So, unless the pen is to be consigned permanently to a display case, periodic waxing, rather than repeated polishing (even if only every few years) is a (more) sensible practice. The only caveat would be to avoid waxes containing volatiles capable of reacting with the pen material.

Edited June 1, 2014 by Mickey

[OcalaFlGuy]

 

Allow me to add a subtle wrinkle to your thin ice. Wax, if used judiciously, is a sensible alternative to repeatedly polishing, a practice which will eventually remove fine details, like imprints. Wax also protects the surface, providing a barrier to liquids, as well as some sacrificial protection from micro scratches. So, unless the pen is to be consigned permanently to a display case, periodic waxing, rather than repeated polishing (even if only every few years) is a (more) sensible practice. The only caveat would be to avoid waxes containing volatiles capable of reacting with the pen material.

 

If you are doing any aggressive polishing you should Already be masking off imprints and furniture so they aren't disturbed or you're doing a crappy polish job.

 

As another poster mentioned, MY idea Also with polishing ISN'T constant repeated polishing. Polish the pen Once to where they Should Be then keep them in a carry case so they aren't scratched AGAIN. If you CARE about your pens it is perfectly possible to carry them and NOT scratch them up.

 

IMO constant waxing with even Carnauba leads to wax buid up which isn't good. I Especially Would Not be Constantly applying multiple coats of a Micro Crystalline wax like RW. It is a nearly permanent wax already, multiple coats is massive overkill.

 

Bruce in Ocala, Fl

[Mickey]

 

If you are doing any aggressive polishing you should Already be masking off imprints and furniture so they aren't disturbed or you're doing a crappy polish job.

 

As another poster mentioned, MY idea Also with polishing ISN'T constant repeated polishing. Polish the pen Once to where they Should Be then keep them in a carry case so they aren't scratched AGAIN. If you CARE about your pens it is perfectly possible to carry them and NOT scratch them up.

 

IMO constant waxing with even Carnauba leads to wax buid up which isn't good. I Especially Would Not be Constantly applying multiple coats of a Micro Crystalline wax like RW. It is a nearly permanent wax already, multiple coats is massive overkill.

 

 

 

My experience is otherwise. I'm a user, not a collector, and though I always carry pens in wrap or case, they none the less collect micro-scratches, particularly the resin pens. (Urushi seems to hold up better.) Frankly, I don't much care about scratches, but others do, ergo my participation in this colloquium.

 

Constant or obsessive anything isn't good, but repeated polishing will eventually thin the basic material of the pen. (Anyone familiar with Sheffield Plate is aware of the problem.) Obsessive waxing only results in Mary Hartman's famous waxy yellow build up, which, while unsightly, is not fundamentally destructive of the underlying material. As long as one is reasonably sane about wax application, i.e., try polishing first with a soft, clean cloth before considering the application of additional wax, build up should not be a concern.

 

I do have concerns about RW on pens, owing to its solvent content. Not knowing which solvent or its possible effect on various pen materials, I would err in the direction of a solvent free beeswax or possibly a beeswax / carnuba wax blend. If anyone has an informed opinion on the composition of RW and any possible undesirable interaction between the solvent and various pen materials, the information would be useful.

[londonbooks]

depends on the material, your perspective, your conscience as owner/salesperson, and what the pen world community accepts about keeping the alterations beyond natural wear with the pens history.

Not easy with anonymous world of auctions, and multiple viewpoints.

In conservation, action is to save for the future good for all to share in the ability to see old objects, As Was. And, actions to adjust are reversible. Again, not an easy task when you have creative people with ideas.

 

My roseglow I mentioned earlier needed a good clean, and looked new, but not so new, not zealously over cleaned, that it's full character and markings were disturbed in any way, Quite the opposite they were enhanced just to original appearance.

I was very pleased.

 

Other pieces I have will never be touched. In other collectible objects, its regular practice to use chemicals, and stick with hot needles to determine material, to charge a higher sales price. I'd stick a hot needle in my kid first. IOW's I don't have to do destructive extremes to know. I use other well known methods. Info gets passed around. Some good, some not so good. It belongs to you? your choice, but the info is out there to learn.

 

I think I understand your ideas about not altering fountain pens. I find it difficult with pens that only I have used, pens that I bought new, not to want to clean them with various waxes or polishes. I know there are many people who do not apply any chemicals to their pens. But with auctions and all the used pens that are available on the internet and elsewhere the desire to clean or polish is irresistible sometimes and sometimes even necessary I think. Thanks for your viewpoint.

[Dan Solomon]

+1 on Ron Zorn's polish

[Hardcase]

I haven't used carnauba wax on anything other than my car, but I have used Renaissance Wax on firearms. It's a good product for guns that aren't going to be used for some time and easier than oiling them. However, because it's a polyethylene-based wax, it can be the dickens to remove from non-metallic surfaces. And while it's not as bad as other waxes, it can obscure fine details and pick up lint and dust.

 

I would look to some other, non-wax preservative (or none at all).