Increasing Ink Flow With Brass Shim: How Do You Do?

[GG917]

Hi all,

 

I have adjusted the flow of several of my pen writing too dry using brass shim. Usually I remove the nib and work the tines apart using the 0,002 brass shim, by applying the pressure from the breather hole to the top of the nib, sliding the brass shim in the ink channel for that.

 

However I find that it takes quite some time for reaching a good result. Is there a quicker/better way to do it?

 

I have tried by apply the pressure closer the the tip, but in some case I found that the iridium become misaligned with the tine... something like this /( rather than /\ ...

[lahlahlaw]

If the pen is not expensive, I insert a .005 shim about halfway up the slit and twist it to spread the tines apart. Otherwise I do it as you've mentioned. I have .002 shims but I only use them to clean the slit, they're pretty thin.

[GG917]

Thanks for the info about the 0,005 brass shim, I have never thought of doing so, despite having the shim size! The thinner I have are 0,001 which I only use for flossing.

 

I also Wonder how one can do when the nib cannot be removed from the feed, like a parker sonnet for example?

[FarmBoy]

Repairing damage to the slit is most challenging. Said damage is usually caused by shoving things in the slit. "Flossing" is to clean the slit of debris not stretch or abrade it into submission.

 

If you desire a more open slit, presumably to increase flow, just open it slightly by applying outward pressure on the edges of the nib while supporting the face. Think of this as a flattening motion. Squeezing to add additional curl closes the gap.

 

There are other options but they take to many words to describe using iSpell.

[GG917]

If you desire a more open slit, presumably to increase flow, just open it slightly by applying outward pressure on the edges of the nib while supporting the face. Think of this as a flattening motion. Squeezing to add additional curl closes the gap.

 

I thought this is to cure inverted (or not) grand canyon, not to play with the flow. In my understanding this also change the flow since it bring the two tips apart (or closer) but the pen will be scratchier I guess with the two flat side of the tips not parallel to each other. This is what is described in Dubiel's book as well as in the Marshall and Oldfield one, using the wings of the nib to bring the two tips parallel to each other.

 

My initial question was where people apply pressure when using a brass shim to widen the slit? close to the tip or the breather hole, on the whole tine?... In order to avoid to have the tip out of alignment compared to the tine.

[Rama33]

So, how to you adjust the flow if not by spreading the tines? Sorry, I didn't understand your post FarmBoy. And, how do you widen the tines on a flexible nib (or obtain a wetter flow from the nib)? I have a vintage Waterman with a #2A nib that is semi flexible and it writes dry sometimes when I start using the pen. It's almost to the point where I have to start writing on scratch paper to get the ink flowing, then the pen writes wonderfully! Tines are aligned. It is just a little bit scratchy, definitely not buttery smooth. Sending the pen out to a nibmeister takes an awful long time to it get back so I'd like to learn to adjust the nibs myself.

 

I guess what I'm reading here is GG917 want to adjust flow by spreading the tines and FarmBoy is stating that's not the proper way. Is that the gist of this discussion right now? And now I want a wetter flow but the pen I have the problems with has a flexible nib. I mean with flexible nibs the tines separate all the time while writing of their own free will and accord. Right? How is a person to keep them separated when after flexing the pen to produce a thicker line, they spring right back to where they were before the separation.

 

Any help here will be greatly appreciated. Sorry to intrude on your thread GG917, but I hated to start a brand new thread since this one is relevant and already going.

 

Craig

[Rama33]

ps. Once my vintage Waterman gets writing (the ink flowing) it seems to be a wet writer. I'm so confused???????

[GG917]

Any help here will be greatly appreciated. Sorry to intrude on your thread GG917, but I hated to start a brand new thread since this one is relevant and already going.

 

It's OK if this thread can help more peoples than just myself!

 

My initial query was to know how people do to spread the tines in order to increase the flow, using a brass shim. Especially at which point of the tine theyapply pressure with the brass shim in order to keep the tine straight. This is because a few time I grow frustrated of working the whole tine out, just grabbed the top of the tine and that ended up in the tine tapered but the iridium tapered the other way around (when looked from the top). I managed to align the iridium again, both pens write fine and wet now!

 

I guess the method Farmboy suggested is the same as demonstrated by TWSBI: it increase the flow by having the flat sides of the tip in a inverted V (grand canyon situation). My guess it that the pen is wetter but scratchier...

 

Regarding your waterman it looks to me not nib related but that the pen dries out when not in use. once the ink made flowing again the pen becomes wet again!

[Rama33]

Yes, GG917, you are probably correct. Is there a way to correct this situation? Oh, and the tip is bent downwards somewhat. Well, nowhere near like an inverted grand canyon.

 

Craig

 

Regarding your waterman it looks to me not nib related but that the pen dries out when not in use. once the ink made flowing again the pen becomes wet again!

[Rama33]

Here is what my tines look like.

[GG917]

looks ok to me. The inverted grand canyon is when you look to the part of the tip that wrote on the paper.

 

page 3 of Richard Binder notes (http://www.richardspens.com/pdf/workshop_notes.pdf). I am no specialist of this type of pen but I would guess it is related to the ink drying when the pen not in use... Inner cap not sealing the nib well?

[Rama33]

oh, I didn't think of that. That makes perfect sense. Thanks GG917!

 

Craig

 

 

looks ok to me. The inverted grand canyon is when you look to the part of the tip that wrote on the paper.

 

page 3 of Richard Binder notes (http://www.richardspens.com/pdf/workshop_notes.pdf). I am no specialist of this type of pen but I would guess it is related to the ink drying when the pen not in use... Inner cap not sealing the nib well?

[GG917]

Well I hope that could help! Maybe check with some people knowing better those pens than me!!!

[Rama33]

GG917, thanks for the Binder Notes. I think this very accurately describes my problem as "no ink to paper" and the solution.

 

Gosh I love this place.....

Craig

 

[OcalaFlGuy]

Repairing damage to the slit is most challenging. Said damage is usually caused by shoving things in the slit. "Flossing" is to clean the slit of debris not stretch or abrade it into submission.

 

If you desire a more open slit, presumably to increase flow, just open it slightly by applying outward pressure on the edges of the nib while supporting the face. Think of this as a flattening motion. Squeezing to add additional curl closes the gap.

 

There are other options but they take to many words to describe using iSpell.

 

I gotchur 6 FB. https://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/index.php/topic/246936-poor-ink-flow/?hl=spread&do=findComment&comment=2692717

 

It is also my experience that .002-.003 brass stock is too thin to open tines with consistently. The good news is, at least IMO, that brass is less likely to damage the interior of the slit than most anything else you're going to stick in there except plastic. The closer in hardness of what's going between the tines to the material of the tines themselves, the more risk of damaging the slit With that item.

 

Bruce in Ocala, Fl

[GG917]

it seems that the brass shim method had been adivced by Richard binder before: https://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/index.php/topic/16658-flow-problems/?p=150669

 

I was trying on an inexpensive pen today, applying pressure with the brass shim to spread them apart while "flossing" the brass shim into the slit. I ended up with the tip of the tine spread but the slit right after the tips were still touching (giving a somehow C-shape to the tine)...

After I brought back the tine into shape, I tried the method of Lahlahlaw "I insert a .005 shim about halfway up the slit and twist it to spread the tines apart": worked like wonder! And so quick compared to basically grinding the brass shim with the slit...

I also increase the flow of two other pen, with the 0.002 this time (0.005 did not fit): perfect!

 

Thanks for the advice!

[OcalaFlGuy]

That post is almost Eight Years ago.

 

A LOT of pen people do things to pens differently now than then.

 

Richard does NOT recommend brass shim stock to spread tines anymore.

 

If you searched hard enough to find an 8 year old post of his, you shouldn't have a problem finding his latest one with the Correct way in it.

 

Bruce in Ocala, Fl

[GG917]

well I do not pay attention to when that was posted... Anyway the brass shim method worked for me so...

[Freddy]

Fascinating...but on to the point...

Trigger finger works...

 

 

Fred

Old Mickey Brannigan had a bull pup..He was bred

from an elegant stock; For seventeen hours of battle

he fought..He did upon my soul.. by the clock...

 

Can't ya hear Theodore Ashlaw singin'...

 

and Slow is Fast...

[Freddy]

Have no idea why the Dreaded Double Post...

Ladies and Gentlemen please except our apologies..again...

 

 

Fred

Edited April 6, 2014 by Freddy