Faux Penman Sapphire #9

[dcwaites]

So, inspired by my attempts earlier today with diluting Diamine Majestic Blue, I decided to see if I could make a version with the correct colour.

 

And so -- behold Faux Penman Sapphire #9

Diamine Majestic Blue ..... 4 Parts

Diamine Sapphire Blue .... 3 Parts

Water ............................... 8 Parts

 

Depending on your particular pen and paper, you may wish to add more or less water to get a pleasing depth of colour. This particular batch works very will with fine nibbed pens, you may want to wind the water back a bit if you are using a medium or broad nib, or more absorbent paper.

 

I have attached some scans

 

 

The first compares the colour of FPS #9 with real Parker Penman Sapphire. It was done on Clairefontaine notebook paper.

 

 

The second scan compares the degree of feathering with both inks. As you can see, both inks feather to the same degree on this paper.

 

 

The third scan shows the degree of bleeding, which again, is the same on this paper.

 

The second and third were done on old stock Reflex paper, which is a marginal paper for feathering and bleeding. On better paper, neither ink feathers or bleeds.

 

Other Properties --

• Spreading. There was no noticeable spreading with either ink.
• Dry Time. Both inks dry within seconds on most paper. Using fine nibbed pens on Clairefontaine I got 3 seconds dry time for each ink. Less on more absorbent papers. Of course, if you are going to use a broad nibbed firehose, dry times will be longer.
• Red Sheen. Both inks will show a degree of red sheen when concentrated, or used in a wet pen.

So, as far as I can tell, I have been able to make an effective duplicate of Parker Penman Sapphire, in colour, appearance and behaviour.

 

The Quest stops here.

 

 

[plc123]

Brilliant work!

[Wile E Coyote]

Try 1 part Private Reserve DC Supershow Blue.

[dcwaites]

Try 1 part Private Reserve DC Supershow Blue.

 

I have tried the PR inks before (DCSSB and Amer. Blue). However both feather and bleed more than the recipe above.

[carlos.q]

This looks very nice. Thank you for this! Now I just have to get me a bottle of that Majestic Blue....

[dcwaites]

I have found that buying 4 30ml bottles directly from the Diamine Inks website a good way to get several colours.

I am about to get two more each of the DMB and DSB. Along with the dilution with water, that should give me over 200 mls of usable ink, for about AU$26,

compared to 50 mls of real PPS for over $50.

[English John]

I will be trying this , once my sample bottles arrive. Do you use normal tap water, or do you use distilled water ?

[dcwaites]

I use distilled water for making larger lots (> 20 mls) or filtered/de-ionised water for smaller lots.

The problem with tap water is that it can vary so much from place to place.

[Wile E Coyote]

 

I have tried the PR inks before (DCSSB and Amer. Blue). However both feather and bleed more than the recipe above.

 

Have you tried it in comparison to Parker Penman? You should make sure the Penman is also dilute to the original level. Most has evaporated a bit since it was originally made and will bleed less in a more concentrated state. Parker Penman was supersaturated and any evaporation will affect it's properties.

 

I've done a lot or comparison over the years and Private Reserve is as close as anything. The two differences I've noticed are the sheen is slightly different as is the odor.

[dcwaites]

 

Have you tried it in comparison to Parker Penman? You should make sure the Penman is also dilute to the original level. Most has evaporated a bit since it was originally made and will bleed less in a more concentrated state. Parker Penman was supersaturated and any evaporation will affect it's properties.

 

I've done a lot or comparison over the years and Private Reserve is as close as anything. The two differences I've noticed are the sheen is slightly different as is the odor.

 

I have an almost full bottle of the original Parker Penman Sapphire. This bottle has suffered no evaporation at all, and is at the original concentration.

I use this as my base standard to compare all my samples with.

 

I wanted an ink that not only looked like the original, but behaved like it as well, in dry time, bleeding, etc. This is the first time I have been able to get both.

 

Also when I compare ink behaviour (the evil trilogy of FBS (Feathering, Bleeding, Spreading) ) I always use middle-of-the-road paper. If I use good paper (Rhodia, Clairefontaine, etc) the paper is so good it hides those behaviours.

[Masque]

Almost hate to ask this, but how's the sheen?

[dcwaites]

The sheen is there, to a similar degree as with the original.

[Chrissy]

I'm very impressed that you have made it so close as to be virtually indistinguishable in colour.

[dcwaites]

Thank you, that was the aim, to make a functional replacement for the original, and now unobtainable, Parker Penman Sapphire.

 

This particular recipe replicates the colour, the behaviour on paper as regards FBS (Feathering, Bleeding and Spreading), Smear and Dry Time, and the magic Sheen.

 

No other blend I have been able to make has achieved this.

[toddatkins]

Brilliant job here. It baffles me why Parker wouldn't reissue the Penman Sapphire ink. It would be a huge hit, and certainly they could ask a premium price.

[threeeye]

toddatkins-

Could it be that through facilities relocation, personnel changes, environmental impact, safety standards and lost processing directions that there is no way that the "original" formulation is easily reconstucted. In other words "We can't find the recipe! It's not lost. It's here somewhere."

[mm1624124]

Mute! One is available and does the job...let's embrace it!

 

Thanks for the effort. Now the only hook for those that must have it is in name only.

 

The Quest stops here.

 

Yes, yes it does. Thanks again.

[Pens by J. I. Schmidt]

Beautiful ink!

[MKeith]

Can't believe I missed this. Absolutely great work!

[cellmatrix]

Is there any difference in water resistance between faux pps and pps or are they equally poor? What about shading - any differences?