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How Common Is A Cracked Snorkel Barrel?


loudkenny

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I just restored my first Snorkel last night, a black Valiant? with a white dot and a fine open nib.

 

After putting in a new sac and both seals, I couldn't get the pen to fill very much at all. I eventually found out my original barrel had a

long crack in it near the section.

 

I replaced the black barrel with a burgundy one, and the pen now works great.

 

Is barrel cracking common in Snorkels? Can you fix this issue yourself, or is it easier just to get a new barrel?

 

PS. (Warning - wanton props) Thank you Grandmia for the great Snorkel video... and Brian Anderson's shop for the resac kit :)

 

Thank you,

ken

Edited by loudkenny
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I have a snorkel that was cracked at the top of the barrel when I received it. I successfully repaired the crack, though it does still show.

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It's common enough that I check for a cracked barrel when I estimate repair costs on snorkels and touchdowns. The blind cap end is the more common place to find one because owners often tilt the TD tube off to one side when filling the pen. It can be solvent welded to repair the crack.

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Provided the previous owner hasn't tried to superglue it without success, leaving a mess.

"Don't hurry, don't worry. It's better to be late at the Golden Gate than to arrive in Hell on time."
--Sign in a bar and grill, Ormond Beach, Florida, 1960.

 

 

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I was lucky, as the crack was never glued.

 

The crack is somewhere about 3/8" long and runs down the side of the barrel, starting about 1/4" from the cap thread. You can barely see it on the outside of the barrel. I finally found it by wetting the side of the pen with soapy water and working the pump.

 

Is it even worth getting the barrel fixed, or should I just get a new one?

 

ken

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Of course these are worth getting fixed, some of my best friends are snorkels. Yours has the crack on the opposite end of where it is most common. If the crack goes through the threads, that is a more tedious repair but is possible.

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  • 1 month later...

It's common enough that I check for a cracked barrel when I estimate repair costs on snorkels and touchdowns. The blind cap end is the more common place to find one because owners often tilt the TD tube off to one side when filling the pen. It can be solvent welded to repair the crack.

 

What solvent do you use to weld the crack in snorkel barrel? It sounds like super glue is a poor choice.

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Don't use silicone, and don't use an adhesive. You're going to look for a solvent that works with styrene. I don't know if Tenax is still on the market, but it worked, and a similar solvent weld should work just as well. The initial bond is quite strong, but you need to give it 24 hours or more for the plastic to harden enough for the repaired area to blend properly with the rest of the barrel. Wait a bit, and the repair can be nearly invisible, if not totally invisible when finished. Rush it and you can have a mess.

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I agree with Ron, 100%. Unfortunately, a cracked barrel is the last thing that I finally discover when having difficulty getting a Snorkel to fill properly...after replacing all of the rubber and cleaning the "working parts" :^ )

 

I've used Tenax and my bottle has lasted me for many years...and it is still available.

 

http://www.amazon.com/Tenax-7R/dp/B00EMXTBG0

 

Michael Quitt

www.charmcitypens.com

Michael Quitt

www.charmcitypens.com

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Hey Ron are you talking about Liquid Polystyrene Cement like this?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/190668259835?lpid=82

 

I normally look for something that contains methylene chloride. This does not, but it does contain M.E.K. You'll find the MSDS here.

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Hey Ron,

 

I found a 1946 date code dove grey Parker 51 vacumatic in a parts box. Looks like all the pieces are there, but I see now why it wasn't repaired...a crack in the barrel at the filler end. The crack is tight, but runs about 3/8 inch down the barrel.

 

Is there a solvent that will work to repair this crack?

 

John H.

The Moonwalk Pen - honoring Apollo lunar landings
4-x-2-advertisement-copy-reduced-size.jp

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  • 3 weeks later...

Parker 51 is not polystyrene, so the methods for the Snorkel wont work

I'm not sure what the proper solvent is

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Parker 51 is not polystyrene, so the methods for the Snorkel wont work

I'm not sure what the proper solvent is

But the same solvent works for both.

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Testors model cement is also slower and thicker than Tenax. Tenax, if applied carefully, will fill a crack by capillary action and not show. Getting Testors to flow easily and to not be messy is a challenge. I use both in my other hobby of model car building, but wouldn't use Testors for a fine job or one that would show. Ambroid also works very well on polystyrene, is my normal solvent of choice.

 

Tim

Tim

 timsvintagepens.com and @timsvintagepens

 

 

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