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Omas Nib Removal


Roefisher

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Hello,

 

Can anyone give me advice on how the nib or nib unit comes out from an Omas pen?

 

The pen I am talking about is the Paragon styled Extra Lucens - the 2013LE one.

 

Thank you,

 

Mark

 

****************** Andy's Rock, 1985 ************

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I have removed the nibs from my Ogiva and Art Italiana by just gripping gently in kitchen paper and gently twisting until the unit came out of the section. Neither seem to have suffered any ill effects and are working perfectly.

The Good Captain

"Meddler's 'Salamander' - almost as good as the real thing!"

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I have removed the nibs from my Ogiva and Art Italiana by just gripping gently in kitchen paper and gently twisting until the unit came out of the section. Neither seem to have suffered any ill effects and are working perfectly.

 

Thank you.

 

Have you ever removed the nib unit too?

 

I would like to be able to do this in order to give me good access into the barrel to maybe silicone the piston. I am guessing, based on what I see from a Visconti pen, but think if the nib and feed are removed without the unit, then there is only a tiny hole into the barrel?

 

Mark

****************** Andy's Rock, 1985 ************

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Hi Mark,

 

weird, someone posted a pretty similar question on my blog today - was it you? Anyway, most of the sections of Omas pens seem to unscrew too. Here's an instruction for the old style Paragons:

 

I found this one helpful because I once did this with a Paragon (with my heart in my mouth). The piston was making horrible noises and as the nib and feed unit wouldn't budge removing the section seemed the only way to make the pen usable. It worked well and there hasn't been any leakage or whatever since.

 

As the guy says in the video it's pretty tight especially when unscrewing it for the first time because the threads are covered with some kind of sealant. It can go wrong apparently so if your pen is from 2013 and the piston needs lubing I guess manufacturer's service would be the safer way?

Edited by elderberry

Read more about me, my pens, photography & so on my little blog

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Yes I have; in both cases as it happens. I just unscrewed the front section, including the nib. The pistons come out from there easily and I was able to give them a good clean and silicone the insides before reassembly. I'm sure I've seen a post somewhere about Omas nib removal but I'm damned if I can find it right now!

The Good Captain

"Meddler's 'Salamander' - almost as good as the real thing!"

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Hi Mark,

 

weird, someone posted a pretty similar question on my blog today - was it you? Anyway, most of the sections of Omas pens seem to unscrew too. Here's an instruction for the old style Paragons:

 

I found this one helpful because I once did this with a Paragon (with my heart in my mouth). The piston was making horrible noises and as the nib and feed unit wouldn't budge removing the section seemed the only way to make the pen usable. It worked well and there hasn't been any leakage or whatever since.

 

As the guy says in the video it's pretty tight especially when unscrewing it for the first time because the threads are covered with some kind of sealant. It can go wrong apparently so if your pen is from 2013 and the piston needs lubing I guess manufacturer's service would be the safer way?

This is the one! How uncanny is that?!!!!!!!

The Good Captain

"Meddler's 'Salamander' - almost as good as the real thing!"

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As the guy says in the video it's pretty tight especially when unscrewing it for the first time because the threads are covered with some kind of sealant. It can go wrong apparently so if your pen is from 2013 and the piston needs lubing I guess manufacturer's service would be the safer way?

You are right about the sealant but it was pretty minimal on the two pens I've toyed with and I used silicone grease on the threads when putting them back together. Believe me; I'm careful with expensive kit and if I thought I would have jeopardised those pens in any way, I'd not have undertaken the 'work'.

The Good Captain

"Meddler's 'Salamander' - almost as good as the real thing!"

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Great stuff, thank you both for the help and advice.

 

You are right about the sealant but it was pretty minimal on the two pens I've toyed with and I used silicone grease on the threads when putting them back together. Believe me; I'm careful with expensive kit and if I thought I would have jeopardised those pens in any way, I'd not have undertaken the 'work'.

 

Good Captain,

 

When you screwed the nib unit out, were the nib and feed also there to take it all out in one piece? (I am imagining doing the operation this way, gripping the nib and feed between my thumb/index finger and carefully screwing everything out from there) or were they already removed and you used a tool on the nib unit lugs to screw the nib unit out?

 

Thanks!

 

Mark

****************** Andy's Rock, 1985 ************

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Great stuff, thank you both for the help and advice.

 

 

Good Captain,

 

When you screwed the nib unit out, were the nib and feed also there to take it all out in one piece? (I am imagining doing the operation this way, gripping the nib and feed between my thumb/index finger and carefully screwing everything out from there) or were they already removed and you used a tool on the nib unit lugs to screw the nib unit out?

 

Thanks!

 

Mark

I didn't actually need to use any tool or device at all. The section came off first and I noticed that the nib could be take out as well just by gentle turning but I seem to recall that it was friction rather than screw fit. As the saying goes, I can't remember - I've slept since then! No damage was done though and it shouldn't be a problem with care and no force. A bit of a soak of the removed section first, in cold water, seemed to help.

Of course; I'm not a repair person and it was done as my own risk. The same must apply to you.

Edited by The Good Captain

The Good Captain

"Meddler's 'Salamander' - almost as good as the real thing!"

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Thank you,

 

I know now exactly what you mean now - cheers!

 

I'm an amateur at servicing and maintenance myself but really enjoy getting these things done as good as I possibly can manage. I've found from servicing and cleaning my Pelicans, TWSBI's and Visconti that any piston action is much improved after a little silicone so the cleaning/silicone application of this Omas really needs the nib unit out too so that's what I'm intending to do... of course, very carefully and not at all if it seems to require too much pressure.

 

Mark

Edited by Roefisher

****************** Andy's Rock, 1985 ************

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Thank you,

 

I know now exactly what you mean now - cheers!

 

I'm an amateur at servicing and maintenance myself but really enjoy getting these things done as good as I possibly can manage. I've found from servicing and cleaning my Pelicans, TWSBI's and Visconti that any piston action is much improved after a little silicone so the cleaning/silicone application of this Omas really needs the nib unit out too so that's what I'm intending to do... of course, very carefully and not at all if it seems to require too much pressure.

 

Mark

Hi Mark,

 

Servicing a modern Omas Paragon is pretty similar as the Pelikans. The nib unit (nib, feed and feed ring) can be unscrewed out of the section together, just be very gentle with it. The nib unit then can be disassembled by using a knock out block. However, if your solo purpose is to smooth the piston filler, I think the Noodler's Eel liberating ink is a good alternative. :)

 

Cheers!

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Hi,

 

When reattaching the grip section make sure to use a rosin section sealant. I believe Ron Zorn might have that available. Rosin section sealant is used in the initial assembly of the OMAS pens and prevents any leakage.

 

Unscrewing the grip section should be never taken lightly, and make sure to seal it properly when you close it to prevent leakage.

 

Dillon

Stolen: Aurora Optima Demonstrator Red ends Medium nib. Serial number 1216 and Aurora 98 Cartridge/Converter Black bark finish (Archivi Storici) with gold cap. Reward if found. Please contact me if you have seen these pens.

Please send vial orders and other messages to fpninkvials funny-round-mark-thing gmail strange-mark-thing com. My shop is open once again if you need help with your pen.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Dillo, when you write "make sure you seal it properly", do you mean with a proper sealant, or is silicone grease acceptable? I do want to try a titanium nib in one of my Omas...

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Dillo, when you write "make sure you seal it properly", do you mean with a proper sealant, or is silicone grease acceptable? I do want to try a titanium nib in one of my Omas...

Not bypassing Dillo's reply but I've just used silicone and had no problems. I used to just use silicone on the O-rings on a Hasselblad underwater camera housing, going down to divers 300ft below with no problems!

The Good Captain

"Meddler's 'Salamander' - almost as good as the real thing!"

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Aaargh, thank 'ee, Cap'ain, sir! (Shiver me timbers and all that! Three hundred feet, eh? I'm quite impressed...)

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Aaargh, thank 'ee, Cap'ain, sir! (Shiver me timbers and all that! Three hundred feet, eh? I'm quite impressed...)

I must mention that I wasn't the one down at those depths! Just the 'surface' lackey. On a diving ship working off the Claymore and Piper Alpha in the late 70s.

And I was in Cheltenham during my student days. It's never recovered!

The Good Captain

"Meddler's 'Salamander' - almost as good as the real thing!"

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