Jump to content

Writing Feathering On Printer Paper.


PBobbert

Recommended Posts

After parusing around for to long, I decided that questions like this go on a case by case basis.

 

I am having problems with my writing feathering out on the page (by which I mean when I draw a line or write a character, the lines wick outwards and become way to thick, as well as wiskering in some cases), which makes it so many of my characters are illegible.

 

I do all my writing on two things. I use National Brand computation notebooks for permanent things and blank white printer paper for all else. As a engineering student, I go through a lot of paper. I also much prefer to write on non-lined paper.

 

Writing in the notebooks is fine. There is both very little wicking and wiskering. However writing on any other paper can vary from a huge success to a dramatic failure. Lucky for me my checkbook doesnt wick or wisker just like my notebooks.

 

Untill now I had not though about different kinds of inks as a possible solution. It would be really nice to be able to write on every paper regardless of its type or quality. I have been using J Herbin eclat de saphir ink since I started writing primarily in pen. However this ink fades really fast with sunlight exposure.

 

While searching for a solution, I also stumbled upon the concept of wet and dry pens, something I had not heard about beforehand. The pen I use is a Cross Spire with a fine nib.

 

What would be a good ink that doesnt wick or wisker on any paper, which also lasts a long time? I much prefer blue inks. Or does such a thing not exist. Water resilience would also be a nice feature, but if im not mistaken that characteristic comes with not being able to wash it out right?

 

--

Bob

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 19
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

  • Sandy1

    3

  • PBobbert

    3

  • ac12

    2

  • WayTooManyHobbies

    1

In my search for the same thing (a pen/ink combination that behaves itself on the crappy paper my employer buys us), I have found only two that work. Using a fine, steel point Lady Script pen (1960s) with any kind of ink, and a Waterman 3V with Montblanc Midnight Blue (the iron gall formula). I have not yet finished my testing of different inks in the pens I have, so I'm hoping to find more combinations that work as time goes on. My most recent observation is this - I use all my flex nib pens for calligraphy and they are too wet to also be daily writers on crappy paper, plus I don't want to "waste" these wonderful nibs on non-calligraphic writing, so I may have to break down and buy another Lady Script type pen for work if I want any variety of line and color in my writing there. Such is life with fountain pens.

Breathe. Take one step at a time. Don't sweat the small stuff. You're not getting older, you are only moving through time. Be calm and positive.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

In my experience, finer pens tend to feather less, such as extra fine or Japanese fine pens. A dryer ink it often also a good option. If you can't choose the paper, then the only two factors to work on would be the pen/nib and the ink...

 

My Pilot 78G and Metropolitan with Fine nibs tend to work with any paper I throw at them. I've tried Noodler's Black, Noodler's 54th and Sailor Sei-Boku so far.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi,

 

:W2FPN:

 

While the short answer is to use an ink with an iron-gall component, (such as Ecclesiastic Stationary Supplies Registrars Ink or R&K Salix), I also suggest revisiting your choice of Letter-size blank sheets. Multi-purpose / inkjet papers can be tripwire papers for the FP user. A mid-weight (24lb) laser copy/print paper, (such as Hewlett Packard), should be a grand choice for most inks, so long as one does not write with a heavy hand or have an outrageously wet pen.

 

Bye,

S1

 

-- --

HEdS on 24lb laser copy/print - not a feather nor whisker

http://i783.photobucket.com/albums/yy116/Sandy1-1/InkyThoughts2010/Ink%20Review%20-%20Herbin%20-%20Eclat%20de%20Saphir/INK945.jpg

The only time you have too much fuel is when you're on fire.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

"I mean when I draw a line or write a character, the lines wick outwards and become way to thick, "

 

I personally think you should change to a finer nibbed pen. These are just the quirks of using a fountain pen. Too many variables, can't have a one size fits all.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

For another Iron Gall ink possibility, you could try Organic Studio Aristotle. Lacking that, I find that Noodler's Black is reasonably behaved on almost anything. I understand Noodler's X-feather is even less likely to feather, but the drying time is extended.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Feathering is a pet peeve for me. I am able to put together a pen and ink combo that writes on the crappiest paper I have...But why would I want to limit myself to an ink that "works" but might not bring me the joy and variety that writing with fountain pen brings? That's what you are doing by making your ink the variable when the paper is the element you should be changing.

 

I second the suggestion to find a new paper that will accept the majority of inks and pens you own.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Feathering is a combination of factors from: pen, ink and paper.

You need to balance all 3 factors.

 

Paper:

From my experience, the first thing to look at is the paper. Some papers act like blotting paper, and it sounds like yours is doing just that.

You need a paper that does not blot the ink as much. If you are not wedded to or stuck with the paper you are using, I suggest these options in order from best to good. All available by the ream.

  • HP Premium 32# printer paper (Office Depot, Staples, etc)
  • Hammermill, 28# Color Copy paper (Office Depot, Staples, etc)
  • Staples "Sustainable Earth" sugar cane based paper (Staples only)

Pen:

A "wet" pen (one that puts a lot of ink on the paper) will make a marginal paper feather by putting down too much ink for the paper to handle. A dry or dryer pen will help by reducing the amount of ink put down by the pen. But too dry and you start skipping, so there is a balance here.

The other option as mentioned is a narrower nib (Fine or XtraFine) to limit the amount of ink put on the paper by narrowing the width of the ink line. But since you are already using a Fine nib, that is about all you can do with the nib.

 

Ink:

A "wet" ink (one that the ink is more runny) will flow onto the paper faster (can make a pen wet) and then wick into the paper.

Example I use Waterman and Cross (made by Pelikan). The Waterman ink is more wet/runny than the Cross ink.

San Francisco Pen Show - August 28-30, 2020 - Redwood City, California

www.SFPenShow.com

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I personally think you should change to a finer nibbed pen.

 

Unfortunatly I already have the smallest size nib made by cross. I dont know much about making one myself or where I could get a smaller one custom made for my pen.

 

 

 

Paper:

Hammermill, 28# Color Copy paper (Office Depot, Staples, etc)

 

Ink:

A "wet" ink (one that the ink is more runny) will flow onto the paper faster (can make a pen wet) and then wick into the paper.

Example I use Waterman and Cross (made by Pelikan). The Waterman ink is more wet/runny than the Cross ink.

 

Funny thing. Before I wrote this post I had been looking into a new paper (before I thought of looking for a new ink). I have been using GP Advantage Multi-system paper, 20 IB. Just because it is what I have lying around. It doesnt wick much, and it wiskers only a moderate amount so it never bothered me enough to search out new prospects.

 

However sometimes while on campus I forget to bring my own paper, and just take some from a printer. Normaly it writes the same as the GP Advantage paper, sometimes worse, sometimes a little better. However after grabbing paper out of a color lazer printer I stumbled upon the best paper I have ever seen. It doesnt wick at all. By which I mean, if you place and hold the pen on the page, the ink doesnt flow outwards. Making a 1 second dot looks identical to a 5 second dot. It was like a mirical. I have been trying to find it for the last week. I might just go to ask which they stocked the printer with.

 

But after going to a paper store, I found one that looks just like it, which was Hammermill 28 IB color copy digital. They both had have the same feel to the hand. However the unknown paper is much smoother while writing on while the Hammermill is kind of scratchy.

 

Anyways, the Hammermill paper wicks very badly and is the second worse paper I have used.

 

But the fact that you recomend it further points me toward thinking I need a different kind of ink.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi,

Well OK then.

As much as I agree with other Members' suggestions to look at other papers, and that Member doggonecarl is spot on about not having to narrow one's choices, it does seem that the task at hand is to find an ink that will perform on papers that have characteristics similar to paper towels. Indeed, one of the most desirable attributes of a daily writer ink is that it doesn't get in the way of writing - FPs are supposed to be enjoyable, not a source of frustration.

Other than Salix & ESSRI, another Blue ink that should do the necessary would be Sailor sei-boku, which can be diluted with [distilled] water to get the right hue. Noodler's Black, which I've never used, does have a strong following amongst those who encounter dreadful paper. The I-G ink OS Aristotle, which I've had in but one pen, seems possible, but as it is new to the market, I'm reluctant to recommend it, though there are entries for it in the Ink Review Forum; and if you'd like some other quick samples, please send a PM.

Bye,
S1

Edited by Sandy1

The only time you have too much fuel is when you're on fire.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yup, laser printer paper will work much better than inkjet printer paper. I love the HP 32lb stuff, (very smooth and almost velvety), but it's a pretty thick paper. Finding a smooth paper is hard, especially with finer nibs. A more lubricated ink will help with the paper feeling rough (ex, X-Feather or the Eel series from Noodler's, I'm sure there are others).

 

I'll 3rd the Noodler's Black or Noodler's Anti-Feather ink recommendations, they're nice permanent blacks that are designed to stay where you put them. Iron gall inks will also do that, but you have to be careful because sometimes they can hurt your pen. Make sure to practice good pen hygiene (rinse the pen out thoroughly every few fills) if you go that route. Rinsing every few fills is a good idea in general, but sometimes people get used to very nice inks and don't do that. :)

Edited by WirsPlm
Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

Funny thing. Before I wrote this post I had been looking into a new paper (before I thought of looking for a new ink). I have been using GP Advantage Multi-system paper, 20 IB. Just because it is what I have lying around. It doesnt wick much, and it wiskers only a moderate amount so it never bothered me enough to search out new prospects.

 

However sometimes while on campus I forget to bring my own paper, and just take some from a printer. Normaly it writes the same as the GP Advantage paper, sometimes worse, sometimes a little better. However after grabbing paper out of a color lazer printer I stumbled upon the best paper I have ever seen. It doesnt wick at all. By which I mean, if you place and hold the pen on the page, the ink doesnt flow outwards. Making a 1 second dot looks identical to a 5 second dot. It was like a mirical. I have been trying to find it for the last week. I might just go to ask which they stocked the printer with.

 

But after going to a paper store, I found one that looks just like it, which was Hammermill 28 IB color copy digital. They both had have the same feel to the hand. However the unknown paper is much smoother while writing on while the Hammermill is kind of scratchy.

 

Anyways, the Hammermill paper wicks very badly and is the second worse paper I have used.

 

But the fact that you recomend it further points me toward thinking I need a different kind of ink.

 

Yeah get the paper from the color copier/printer, it is probably better than the paper in the black copier.

 

It seems that your pen/ink combo is significantly different than mine, as I have NO feathering problem with the Hammermill 28# color copy digital paper with my F nib pens. And yes the Hammermill is a bit scratchy. To reduce scratchiness, you need to go to a smooth and hard surface paper, like the HP 32# premium paper, or Clairefontaine.

 

BTW if you press down with the pen, that will tend to damage the paper surface, inducing feathering. You need a "light" touch, let just the weight of the pen do the work for you. Easier said than done, and takes a bit/lot of practice to lighten the touch, especially if you only recently converted from a ball pen.

San Francisco Pen Show - August 28-30, 2020 - Redwood City, California

www.SFPenShow.com

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Just to let everyone know, I found the paper used in the lazer printer. Its Hammermill Lazer Print, 24IB.

 

In combination with my fine nibbed cross spire, and J Herbin eclat de saphir ink, it makes a great combination with almost no wicking or wiskering.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just to let everyone know, I found the paper used in the lazer printer. Its Hammermill Lazer Print, 24IB.

 

In combination with my fine nibbed cross spire, and J Herbin eclat de saphir ink, it makes a great combination with almost no wicking or wiskering.

 

 

Hi,

 

Thanks for sharing your success story!

 

It seems that papers & inks often change over time, even though the labels remain the same. Its always good to know when a specific combo works well; and especially to find papers that are [currently] FP friendly, widely available and of modest cost.

 

Bye,

S1

The only time you have too much fuel is when you're on fire.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just to let everyone know, I found the paper used in the lazer printer. Its Hammermill Lazer Print, 24IB.

 

In combination with my fine nibbed cross spire, and J Herbin eclat de saphir ink, it makes a great combination with almost no wicking or wiskering.

 

 

My best performer on truly execrable paper is a fine, medium-dry nib with Waterman Florida/Serenity Blue.

It is the only combination that will not bleed/feather on the Staples (nee Corporate Express) diaries supplied at work.

fpn_1412827311__pg_d_104def64.gif




“Them as can do has to do for them as can’t.


And someone has to speak up for them as has no voices.”


Granny Aching

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 years later...

I know this is an old thread, but I'm posting to express how satisfied I am with the HP Premium 32lb laserjet paper. I was worried about having to keep buying that Rhodia stuff for $10+/80 sheets (because I write a lot), but this HP paper is amazing. Absolutely no feathering when used with Noodler's black, Noodler's X-feather, Waterman black via a Lamy Safari and Lamy 2000. And it's only $16/500 sheets - totally worth it. Super smooth and high quality. Best paper for the price I've ever used, by far.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have found that Noodler's Bad Belted Kingfisher has minimal feathering with my Targa fine nibs. And being fairly waterproof makes it good for addressing envelopes.

Edited by corgicoupe

Baptiste knew how to make a short job long

For love of it. And yet not waste time either.

Robert Frost

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have been using Noodler's X-Feather at work for the last week or so and have been very happy with the results. I use a Pilot Vanishing Point (F) nib. Prior to this, I had attempted a variety of pens and inks with no success. I had almost resigned myself that it would be impossible to use a fountain pen at work. A member here on FPN suggested the Noodler's X-Feather and it's been great! I only wish it was available in other colors than just black.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now







×
×
  • Create New...