Making A Pen Case

[Espada4u]

Michael,

I use that same combination of Vinegar and metal to create what is called Vinegaroon leather. (You might already be aware of this process but just in case your followers did not.) It only works on Vegetable Tan leather because of the tanning processed it goes thru using barks and such. It leaves a high sulfur content on the surface area that can be cured/cleaned and it also leaves a slight vinegar smell that does go away after a few weeks.

But it basically changes the color of the veg tan to a black that is not a dye process, it is a chemical reaction.

By the way S B R E Brown's review was great, well deserved, your products are great.

Keep up the great job.

Roger

[my63]

Thanks Roger

I was aware of vinegaroon and have used it to dye edges of English bridle leather but there may well be readers who were not.

 

Recently I was commissioned to make two single pen cases. The difference with these two cases is size the smallest case is to hold a pen with an outside diameter of 25 mm yes that is the smallest to protect a Montblanc heritage 1914 fountain pen

The second case was to hold a pen 26 mm in diameter and was to protect a Namiki Emperor.

 

As with all of my single pen cases I started with a piece of kydex it was just a much larger piece. I heated the kydex and rolled it around some really large dowels.

 

DSC_0581[1] by my0771, on Flickr

 

After rounding cut some suede in the desired colours and wrapped the tubes in the suede.

 

DSC_0611[1] by my0771, on Flickr

 

Once the inserts were wrapped it was time to wrap them in leather. After cutting I soaked the leather and preformed it around the kydex tubes. After preforming I dyed everything black.

 

DSC_0615[1] by my0771, on Flickr

 

Before the leather could dry out I formed them around the tubes and added some contact cement.

 

DSC_0618[1] by my0771, on Flickr

 

While waiting for the glue to dry I carved out a pair of toggles from some oak and dropped them into my vinegaroon ebonising solution and watched them turn black.

 

DSC_0644[1] by my0771, on Flickr

 

This is the smaller case ready for assembly

 

DSC_0657[1] by my0771, on Flickr

 

Big brother

 

DSC_0658[1] by my0771, on Flickr

 

Finished

 

DSC_0672[1] by my0771, on Flickr

 

DSC_0674[1] by my0771, on Flickr

 

I hope the owner will show us some pictures when they arrive

 

Thanks for looking

 

Michael

[Espada4u]

Michael as always, I love how much info you provide on your process. Thank you so much for sharing.

 

I think I have asked this before but can't find the answer.

 

Have you had any issues with the suede and any pen finishes?

 

I had an issue on a pen sleeve with a premium velvet lining.

It rubbed off on the surface of a Lamy.

I am think it may have occurred because in a pen sleeve their is friction between the pen and the fabric, in your case it freely moves around without much tension or constant friction.

I was going to use suede but I know it bleeds when wet. So I was not sure about it with it rubbing when there is friction.

 

What is your experience with it and thoughts on it?

 

Thanks again for the info.

Roger

[my63]

Hi Roger

I buy my suede from U K tanneries it is mostly garment grade which is high quality I have data sheets that show it has passed Rigerous testing.

My own pens including Parkers Montblanc Delta Sailor and quite a few others have been living in them for many years without any problems.

I ask where all of my leather and suede come from and f a supplier cannot tell me I don't buy it I buy a lot from G H leathers and they have now started publishing their test data in their brochure.

 

There is a lot of confusion about leather and metals as you have said in a previous post metal can change the colour of veg tanned leather. But I can see no reason why suede would cause any more wear to metal parts of a pen than any other material.

 

Hope my ramblings help.

[my63]

I have a couple of projects to share since my last post.

 

I was asked to make a pen wrap for around 8 pens with two small pens and two large pens to be accommodated and a pocket behind the pens.

I decided as it was some time since my last wrap I would draw it out first to try and prevent re designs (yeah right)

 

DSC_0686[1] by my0771, on Flickr

 

Measurements transferred to the red suede

 

DSC_0687[1] by my0771, on Flickr

 

Making a separate piece for the pen slots

 

DSC_0688[1] by my0771, on Flickr

 

Stitching the pen slots into the suede

 

DSC_0698[1] by my0771, on Flickr

 

Trial fitting pens

 

DSC_0715[1] by my0771, on Flickr

 

Top and bottom of the front piece stitched in place

 

DSC_0717[1] by my0771, on Flickr

 

Front piece finished and trial fitting of the back piece

 

DSC_0726[1] by my0771, on Flickr

 

Thanks for looking

Michael

Edited August 7, 2016 by my63

[my63]

Time to fit the strap

 

DSC_0741[1] by my0771, on Flickr

 

The rear panel is stitched together

 

DSC_0733[1] by my0771, on Flickr

 

After dealing with the thread ends

 

DSC_0760[1] by my0771, on Flickr

 

Trimmed to size

 

DSC_0761[1] by my0771, on Flickr

 

Finished

 

DSC_0768[1] by my0771, on Flickr

 

DSC_0770[1] by my0771, on Flickr

 

Thanks for looking

 

Michael

[my63]

There are times when I get asked to make some interesting cases but there are somethings that I make well because they need to be made

I read an interesting post about a type of case that is no longer available and I thought I should have a go at making one of those so here goes.

 

This is a supersized cigar style case with an internal diameter of 27 mm I have added some Kydex tubes to add some strength I started with two flat pieces of kydex.

DSC_0799[1] by my0771, on Flickr

 

After cutting I applied some heat and rolled the kydex into tubes and rounded one end. I then cut some red suede and wrapped the tubes.

 

DSC_0803[1] by my0771, on Flickr

 

My plan is to wrap these tubes in leather with a seam up the middle of the tubes I will then add an outer leather cover with a removable leather top

 

DSC_0808[1] by my0771, on Flickr

 

I am thinking a thinner leather may be better for this part I will look at that again.

[my63]

I decided it would be better to use thinner leather and move the joints to the sides I cut two pieces of leather of equal sizes and stitched them together down the centre.

 

DSC_0814[1] by my0771, on Flickr

 

The next step is to wet the leather dye it black and form it around the tubes

 

DSC_0819[1] by my0771, on Flickr

 

I need to stitch the sides next and think about the outer covers

 

Thanks for looking

 

Michael

[my63]

I had this crazy idea to make the outer cover in one piece and then cut it in half I may regret this idea later

this is the inner piece sitting on top of the leather I will form into the outer cover.

 

DSC_0822[1] by my0771, on Flickr

 

my second idea yesterday was to stitch down two edges to help with the forming it did not really work.

 

DSC_0826[1] by my0771, on Flickr

 

This picture shows the shape a little better

 

DSC_0828[1] by my0771, on Flickr

 

Once I was happy with the shape I dyed it black

 

DSC_0832[1] by my0771, on Flickr

 

Thanks for looking

 

Michael

[my63]

This post should help everyone who is interested to understand what I have been trying to make.

 

DSC_0836[1] by my0771, on Flickr

 

This shows how everything is going to fit together I am considering adding an extra thin piece of leather around the middle to disguise the joint.

 

DSC_0838[2] by my0771, on Flickr

 

Although the joint is ok I am thinking the detail around the belt line would look ok

 

DSC_0841[1] by my0771, on Flickr

 

I have left some mounting points for a thong type closure for added security the lid is not lose but I think it is a good addition.

 

Thanks for looking

 

Michael

[goatgolfer]

I watch with fascination on your engineering and skills. One thing I have searched for in your posts is how the suede gets inside the Kydex with a bit of roll over. The suede on the outside has no value, collar yes. I know you are inserting it like a sock with a foot (dowel).. Did I miss that lesson and how do you take that in to account for actual internal diameter??

 

Thanks for your kind and sharing posts. I adore them. Goat

[my63]

I guess I must have missed that part out as you are not the fist to ask.

 

At one point I used to try very hard to cut the suede exactly to size which was really difficult and actually pointless as the suede is so thin the overlap is difficult to see.

 

When making the kydex tubes around a dowel I usually add a little extra kydex so the tube is larger than the dowel this allows space for the suede.

 

I doo as you say use the dowel to insert the suede but before I do that I stitch the end of the suede around the end of the dowel

 

DSC_0138[1] by my0771, on Flickr

 

Everything is dry fitted first then I use PVA glue as it has a longer working time and insert the suede into the tube don't use too much glue as it can soak through the suede and stick it to the dowel causing it to pull up from the bottom. this has happened to me once so I now re insert the dowel when dry to ensure the suede is right to the bottom.

 

You will end up with a tube like this at this point the dowel is still in place this will hold the suede tight against the tube.

 

DSC_0557[1] by my0771, on Flickr

 

Only the first 1 or 2 mm will be seen and although the suede is thin if you cut it short and then wet mould leather over the top you will be able to see where the suede stops. So I wrap the whole tube in suede. I don't stitch the outside bottom of the suede as I want the outer cover to follow the shape of the kydex

 

DSC_0607[1] by my0771, on Flickr

 

There will be a joint in the Kydex and in the suede I prefer to line all the joints with the joint of the outer cover as the joints are never fully flat they would show through the moulded outer leather.

 

If you are going to play with Kydex please TAKE CARE ! it needs to be hot to form around the dowel if it gets too hot which it can easily it will become shinny and very sticky contact with skin at this point is very painful.

 

I think I have covered everything if you have any questions please ask.

 

Michael

[goatgolfer]

Cheers. A bit more than I imagined and the craftsmanship shows.

[my63]

Thanks @Goatgolfer I am sure there are quicker ways to do it but I have not found them yet.

 

Here are some better pictures of the double supersize pen case

 

DSC_0849[1] by my0771, on Flickr

 

I have started making a extra large toggle / pen rest I have sanded it to a shape I am happy with it is soaking in the ebonising solution now.

 

DSC_0853[1] by my0771, on Flickr

 

Thanks for looking

 

Michael

[my63]

I noticed from the pictures in the last post that there were a couple of marks that I had made on the case during the forming. When wet the leather is very soft and can even pick up marks from finger nails.

 

To remove the marks I soaked the leather again and used different sized dowels and a bone folder to smooth the leather.

 

DSC_0864[1] by my0771, on Flickr

 

DSC_0856[1] by my0771, on Flickr

 

Unfortunately as the leather has dried out a small gap has opened around the joint at its widest it is about 1 mm but of course I know it is there. I had tried to avoid this problem by forming the outer cover and waiting for it to fully dry before cutting it in half as I knew this may happen.

The simple solution is to add a strip of leather around the joint but it is also not the most elegant option.

While thinking of the best solution I have made the wooden toggle from a piece of oak which has been ebonised.

 

DSC_0860[1] by my0771, on Flickr

 

Thanks for looking

 

Michael

[my63]

This case has been more challenging to make than I first thought I have added a trim piece around the joint although I am still unhappy with it.

 

DSC_0875[1] by my0771, on Flickr

 

I think if I were to make another the top piece will be a full length cover.

[my63]

I have just added the finishing touches to the cigar style two pen case.

 

DSC_0934[1] by my0771, on Flickr

 

Pen rest / toggle made from ebonised oak with gold coloured end caps.

 

DSC_0935[1] by my0771, on Flickr

 

A pair of kydex tubes wrapped in fine red suede then in 1 mm black leather with the outer cover made from 2 mm leather.

 

DSC_0938[1] by my0771, on Flickr

 

DSC_0931[1] by my0771, on Flickr

 

Thanks for looking

 

Michael

Edited September 11, 2016 by my63

[my63]

I am pleased to say the black and red case is on its way to its new home as the owner is an F P N er I hope we might get to see some pictures with some fantastic pens inside.

I don't have any plans to make more cases in this style although I miss having it on my desk so a smaller one for my own use is a possibility.

Edited September 15, 2016 by my63

[jmccarty3]

Sorry about the delay in getting these photos done. Here are the two large cases for my Montblanc Heritage 1914 and Namiki No. 50 Urushi Vermilion pens:

 

http://i.imgur.com/h67hwe9.jpg

 

http://i.imgur.com/1UgUCIc.jpg

 

http://i.imgur.com/FwaiYWv.jpg

 

http://i.imgur.com/jiOikbb.jpghttp://i.imgur.com/PdTTHey.jpg

[my63]

Thanks jmccarty for sharing the pictures of your pens in their cases it really makes my day to see the cases being used.

Michael