Making A Pen Case

[my63]

The inside is well on the way so the time has come to tackle the more difficult outer section I had been asked to fit a wrap around thong to secure the wrap.

I wanted an elegant solution to attaching the thong to the wrap so when I cut the outer piece to size I left a small tab which I shaped using a coin as a template.

 

A

I don't like unfinished leather but wanted the rear of the tab to match the front so I skived down a second shaped piece of an off cut. I cut a channel into both pieces so they would fit around the thong which I had cut from a larger piece of leather. I removed the corners and smoothed the back to er well make it smooth

I also marked out stitching holes on the thong and once it was fixed to the front I pushed the awl through those holes to mark the front piece. Once the back was glued in place I pushed the awl through from the front to transfer the holes to the back I hope that makes sense.

 

[url=https://flic.kr/p/CVsjb3]url] by my0771, on Flickr

 

This is part of a pair a pen wrap and a Hobonichi planner cover I hope to dye both pieces tomorrow although one of them needs to have a bird carved on the front first.

This requires that piece to be soaked for a number of hours which I have done today it then needs to be left over night in plastic to allow the water level to stabilise this process is called casing the leather. It makes carving very easy it also allows the leather to pick up marks especially from finger nails.

 

Thanks for looking

 

Michael

[my63]

I am sorry for the lack of updates recently I have been working to complete as many projects as possible before having further surgery on my right hand.

Over the next few days as I improve I will bring this thread up to date.

Thanks

Michael

[my63]

It will be easier for me to make short posts throughout the day.

 

I have been learning to carve leather for some time now I don't think I am very good but if asked then I do the best I can.

 

The desired image is printed out on plain paper although a transparency might work better but I don't have any, Once I have the image I use a piece of plastic between the paper and the soaked leather.

 

The first picture shows my practice carving on a small scrap of leather the same thickness as the actual projects.

 

DSC_1879[1] by my0771, on Flickr

 

Preparing the leather for carving is a bit of a dark art in that many people have their own methods.

I cut the outer cover to size and rounded the corners as well as preparing the edges and cutting the grove for the stitches once everything was prepared I began marking out ready for carving.

 

The preparation took many hours the actual carving took about an hour here is the result.

 

DSC_1972[1] by my0771, on Flickr

 

Thanks for looking

 

Michael

[my63]

I know that this is a notebook cover and I have a thread for those but it is a pair to the pen wrap so I am putting it here to save everyone time.

 

I have cut this piece from the same hide as the pen wrap as I want the colour to start off as close as possible so I will treat each one the same in every process. The original request was for the bird carving only on the notebook cover but as I had to soak both pieces and allow the to rest together it only took and extra hour or so.

 

Anyway here is the outline of the Hobonichi cover I don't have a Hobonichi 1 inch planner so using the sizes given I made a template from grey board and worked to that.

 

DSC_1899 by my0771, on Flickr

 

DSC_1901 by my0771, on Flickr

 

I mentioned above the soaking process here are both pieces wrapped in plastic overnight to ensure the water content was even throughout both pieces. Wet leather marks easily so I took great care to make sure the thong for fastening the wrap and anything else that could mark the leather was well out of the way.

 

DSC_1964[1] by my0771, on Flickr

 

The next day the leather was ready for carving the leather was kept under plastic to stop it drying out too quickly

 

DSC_1966[1] by my0771, on Flickr

 

Here are the finished carvings they are quite simple like a line drawing there are other processes called bevelling and back grounding which would enhance the image but I am not at that level as yet. I plan to buy a better swivel from a chap in the USA later in the year

 

DSC_1974[1] by my0771, on Flickr

 

DSC_1972[1] by my0771, on Flickr.

 

Thanks for looking

 

Michael

[my63]

Applying dye is quite straight forward I usually apply it when the leather is wet in this case after carving.

the edges of the carved leather have been sealed by the knife passing through it so it may look slightly darker. Carving after dying leaves undyed leather visible in the cuts so you have to add more dye so I dye after carving.

 

DSC_1975[1] by my0771, on Flickr

 

DSC_1977[1] by my0771, on Flickr

 

DSC_2006[1] by my0771, on Flickr

 

I did a couple of things before leaving the leather to dry out firstly I rolled the wrap outer up to allow it to dry in that shape the second was to add some carnauba wax to the leather while it is wet. The wax re activates the dye and this helps me to get an even colour this is not in the instructions or books but it works for me so I continue to do it.

 

Thanks for looking

 

Michael

Edited January 24, 2016 by my63

[drafty]

Hey Michael,

 

That looks really great mate!!! When I sketch/copy on paper, I'm lucky to get that kind of accuracy and you're doing it on leather!! The blue is also very striking.

 

I wonder, could the same kind of technique be used to wrap an oblong/oval end shape - for example a hip flask body shape? And then have 3 or 4 pen holes in a row, with a push-on lid. Like elongated versions of your single pen pouches I suppose...

 

Anyway. Your work is looking great!!

 

R

[my63]

Thanks Drafty I am just bringing these threads up to date with the progress I made before my surgery last week.

My recovery has been a little slower than I would have liked there are so many things I want to make and restore.

Thanks

Michael

[my63]

Time to start joining the pieces together the pen roll first there are a few things to catch you out here the lines of stitching for the pockets need to be vertical, The edges all need to be covered and the flap needs to be attached straight other than that it is pretty straightforward.

To start with I marked the stitching holes from the outside and then used latex glue to fix the back piece with the pockets in place.

Before I starting sewing I made the stitching holes along the top of the flap.

 

DSC_2051[1] by my0771, on Flickr

 

DSC_1955[1] by my0771, on Flickr

 

DSC_2043[1] by my0771, on Flickr

 

DSC_2044[1] by my0771, on Flickr

 

DSC_2056[1] by my0771, on Flickr

 

After a lot of boring stitching I started trimming all of the edges being very carful around the flap and the thong mounting point

 

DSC_2055[1] by my0771, on Flickr

 

I need to seal the edges and tidy up a little.

 

Thanks for looking

 

Michael

[Anne-Sophie]

Michael, I am running out of words to describe your work as you manage to create one outstanding object after another.

 

Your carved work, simply stunning!

 

Speedy recovery on your surgery!

[my63]

Thanks Anne-Sophie I appreciate your comments thanks for taking the time to post sometimes I think it is just me .

 

After fitting the interior pieces to the wrap I turned my attention to the Hobonichi cover and its interior which is quite simple.

as you know I have a thing about unfinished leather showing so I cut a piece of baby pink leather to cover the back of the front panel. then I cut two smaller pieces to hold the notebook in place.

 

DSC_2058[1] by my0771, on Flickr

 

These pieces were all glued in place before I started stitching.

 

DSC_2062[1] by my0771, on Flickr

 

As I don't have a Hobonichi planner I made a template from grey board to the outside dimensions given to me when I started the project.

 

DSC_2066[1] by my0771, on Flickr

 

So far so good.

This is as far as I got pre surgery. I will finish these projects as soon as I can hold the knife for long enough to trim the edges and apply the finish.

 

Thanks for looking

 

Michael

[my63]

Thank you to those who have enquired about my recovery my stitches have been removed and the actual healing is very good as expected my existing condition (complex regional pain syndrome) has been aggravated and I currently have two hypersensitive fingers but I have been there before and will get on with it.

 

Here is another project which I began before surgery.

 

The great thing about making custom pen cases is I often get asked to make cases for unusual pens this time it is a pair of two pen cases for Nakaya desk pens which are 163 mm long and 15 mm in diameter.

 

Starting off with a custom mould for the shape.

 

DSC_2002[1] by my0771, on Flickr

 

Test pressing

 

DSC_2020[1] by my0771, on Flickr

 

The test revealed some marks on one side so I made some adjustments to the mould before pressing the pair of front pieces.

 

DSC_2030[1] by my0771, on Flickr

 

I formed the inner pieces out of 0.6 mm kydex

 

DSC_1963[1] by my0771, on Flickr

 

I then wrapped them in suede

 

DSC_1997[1] by my0771, on Flickr

 

Bringing the pieces together

 

DSC_0002[1] by my0771, on Flickr

 

As I am making a pair I cut a template for the closure flap and also cut the little strap that secures the flap.

 

DSC_0012[1] by my0771, on Flickr

 

There are four items waiting to be finished now and as most of the work involves cutting with knives that are very sharp I will be taking my time.

 

Thanks for looking

 

Michael

[WireFox]

Michael, I have just been catching up on this thread and your blog too. I have been using the Leodis Leather instructional videos on YouTube to learn basic techniques but in future I will be keeping up with your blog. You have some great design solutions and I like your use of Kydex as a constructional material in your cases.

 

Is there any reason why you dye the leather when wet? If so would it work if I am using the Fiebings oil dyes?...questions, questions :-) I have been using the same moulding techniques as you and I have noticed the same problem with the sides. I have simply been wetting the leather with a sponge and slicking out the dings with a bone folder. Not ideal because it compresses the leather and the dye does not take as well. However if I apply the dye to wet leather then that particular problem should go away.

 

I like an English saddlery type of finish but that blue is beautiful and makes me want to be a little more daring with my finishes :-)

 

Get well soon and it is impressive that you do all this work with the pain in your hands.

[my63]

Hi Wirefox thanks for the compliments very kind of you.

 

I watched Nigel Armitage on youtube and read two or three books. I have also had a lot of help from the guys at Le Prevo leather shop in Newcastle upon Tyne.

 

I am happy to share all of my methods as I appreciate those who shared there methods with me I will answer each one as best I can.

 

I always found when starting to dye a piece of leather that the leather would soak up the dye and leave a dark patch I discovered that if the leather was wet and the dye diluted this did not happen. I also use Fiebings spirit and oil based dye.

Before the dye is dry I use carnauba wax and rub it into the leather I find this evens out the colour this does not always work on one project it removed the dye, (cant win them all).

 

The trick with moulds is that the outer part should not touch the leather the leather should touch the inner part of the mould and the outer part should just push the edges down.

 

The leather should be soaked in a bucket or the bath if it is a big project (don't tell the wife) at least until the bubbles stop rising usually more than one hour and less than three but it really depends on the leather.

 

I hope the above information is of some use to you.

 

Michael

[WireFox]

Great advice Michael and it all makes perfect sense. My next project is one of those cartridge bags or possibles bag as I think they are called in the US. I may try chamfering the compression plate so it sits away from the sides of the leather and only touches at the edges.

 

I have two of my pens housed so I may work on a different design of pen containers in tandem with the bag. I need to come up with a nifty little number for my Kaweco brass sport too. Oh and a box for my specs. So many things :-)

 

Many thanks for the advice I will let you know how it goes

[my63]

I made this to hold 4 Kaweco sports round boxes are a little more difficult.

 

DSC_1743[1] by my0771, on Flickr

 

If you want to make a square box Nigel Armitige made a great video to explain how to do it. He made a special wooden form to assist in stitching.

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_2ygboFnHW0

 

Be careful if you order timber to make one as I ended up buying 1.2 metres which was the smallest piece I could buy. Then to get the angle they cut it in half so I have double.

[my63]

I needed a toggle to finish the end of the thong as I have not been able to find anything I liked so I will make my own.

A small piece of walnut has had a hole drilled through the middle with a larger hole at one end to accommodate the knot.

 

DSC_0032[1] by my0771, on Flickr

 

Thanks for looking

 

Michael

[my63]

An hour or so later and we have a wooden toggle very tactile

 

DSC_0035[1] by my0771, on Flickr

[drafty]

That looks so great Michael - the bird wrap.

 

And that's a seriously bomb-proof Kaweco sport holder.

 

How's your recovery mate?

[my63]

Hi Drafty

Thanks I am very pleased with both the pen wrap and the Hobonichi planner cover with the bird carvings I think they came out quite well. They are in a box at the moment ready to fly off to their new home in Texas.

 

The Kaweco sport case was an experiment to see if I could make a small case I have some other projects I want to try including a pen case with a zip as I have now read that chapter of my book.

 

My recovery is doing ok the wound has healed quickly and fully I am left with the hypersensitive fingers which to be honest is quite unpleasant but I have to be thankful that it is not the entire hand.

 

Michael

[my63]

I have sewn the black case together and glued the dark red case together too.

 

DSC_0040[1] by my0771, on Flickr

 

All of the pieces are now ready to have the holes made for stitching.

 

DSC_0048[1] by my0771, on Flickr

 

There is a slight bend in the flap on the black case which makes the stitching on the black case look slightly wonky.