Ink(S) That Behaves On School-Grade Toner-Copy Paper?

[Sandy1]

 

 

Thanks for the link!

 

...I always think that when I dilute an ink it looks a little...dead...but if I get that ink I could always leave it open for evaporate it I suppose...

I can't dilute ink with my water...being well water it sort of...destroys it. So now I have a fridge pitcher filter to take all the...sediment out. (maybe that will help...)

 

"R&K Salix is Blue-Black"

! A blue-black that doesn't look grey? (the precious) lol

 

I really don't have a requirement for a red...I don't need a strong black so the transparent/weak ones would be fine

 

-What is the whole point of iron gall inks like the salix though? I read that I should clean my pen more but not much else-

 

Hi,

 

You're welcome!

 

When a dark ink with a high dye load is diluted it becomes lighter, but not weak in the knees. I've posted a few samples of dilution in the ICS&T Forum, so those are fair indicators of how a dilution can be useful.

e.g. Diamine Bilberry - Dilution: 100, 80, 60 & 40% https://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/index.php?/topic/213317-dilution-diamine-bilberry/page__gopid__2230529&do=findComment&comment=2230529

 

The I-G inks have a strong reputation for performing very well on a wide range of papers, giving exceptional line quality, reluctance to bleed- show-through even the poorest of papers; and have a track record several centuries long that supports their claim to be robust & enduring. In my wee review of ESSRI there's a fair number of replies from other Members mentioning their experience with that ink with various pens & papers. Also take a look at the Reviews of R&K Salix & Montblanc Midnight Blue (geb Blue-Black). I-G inks do require vigilance, but not a huge amount of work or time. You'll never ever know if you never ever go.

 

Bye,

S1

[jkjkjk]

 

Hi,

 

You're welcome!

 

When a dark ink with a high dye load is diluted it becomes lighter, but not weak in the knees. I've posted a few samples of dilution in the ICS&T Forum, so those are fair indicators of how a dilution can be useful.

e.g. Diamine Bilberry - Dilution: 100, 80, 60 & 40% https://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/index.php?/topic/213317-dilution-diamine-bilberry/page__gopid__2230529&do=findComment&comment=2230529

 

The I-G inks have a strong reputation for performing very well on a wide range of papers, giving exceptional line quality, reluctance to bleed- show-through even the poorest of papers; and have a track record several centuries long that supports their claim to be robust & enduring. In my wee review of ESSRI there's a fair number of replies from other Members mentioning their experience with that ink with various pens & papers. Also take a look at the Reviews of R&K Salix & Montblanc Midnight Blue (geb Blue-Black). I-G inks do require vigilance, but not a huge amount of work or time. You'll never ever know if you never ever go.

 

Bye,

S1

 

That does still look good after being diluted! (Usually they look watered so I just assumed all inks did that)

 

I have only had my pen for a bit over a month and have cleaned it at LEAST once a week...just water...

 

While I know that's a bit overkill, I was trying to make it a habit so I don't think a monthly flush is all that bad.

----------

My new list of possible inks are now:

 

Black:

Noodler's black and/or X-feather

Lamy T52

Scribal workshop Cryptid

 

Blue:

Lamy T52

(I am still looking for an ink that fits my no bleed/feather...Oh well, I can still look)

?Scribal Workshop Criptid -or bunny...don't know the difference

?Some sort of Noodler's -maybe...depends on luck

 

Blue/Black:

ESSRI

Rohrer & Klingner -more than likely this one

Noodler's 54th Massachusetts -perhaps a bit TOO wet

 

Red:

Lamy T52 -works

Sheaffer Skrip -good red

 

I may experiment with BSB just for drawing maybe...if I can, I would write with it.

 

 

 

I'll most likely get, Lamy T52 Black, R&K Salix, tie on the reds...(I'll get a blue sometime too)

 

Unless someone suggests something else, I think I might be okay with my selection...

[ac12]

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I know that it varies between brands so I can' really compare, but I mean that it writes finer than most other Lamy F examples I found online...so maybe I just happend to get a finer fine?

 

Yes there is manufacturing tolerance which can result in overlap.

I measured my F and M tips, and I have an F tip that is wider than my narrowest M tip. Or said the other way, I have a M tip that is narrower than my widest F tip.

So you could have a narrow F tip that might approach or overlap an XF tip.

[GemMayhem]

In case it's of any help to you, many of the high school engineering students I work with wrestle with similar paper as what you describe.

 

The fountain pens I see in regular use are Lamy Safaris with EF nibs. Popular inks of choice are Lamy bottled ink in Black, Blue, Green and Red (occasionally Turquoise).

 

They used to use cartridges until I showed them how to refill their carts with a blunt syringe from bottled ink or to use a converter.

 

They need to write on both sides of the paper and the combination of the EF nib and Lamy inks works well for them.

 

Best of luck in your quest!

[jkjkjk]

In case it's of any help to you, many of the high school engineering students I work with wrestle with similar paper as what you describe.

 

The fountain pens I see in regular use are Lamy Safaris with EF nibs. Popular inks of choice are Lamy bottled ink in Black, Blue, Green and Red (occasionally Turquoise).

 

They used to use cartridges until I showed them how to refill their carts with a blunt syringe from bottled ink or to use a converter.

 

They need to write on both sides of the paper and the combination of the EF nib and Lamy inks works well for them.

 

Best of luck in your quest!

 

Okay, I was going to order Lamy in black, but thank you as that is reassuring on how well they will work on this paper.

 

Thank you.

[theolu]

I'm surprised nobody has mentioned J. Herbin Perle Noire for a black ink. It's very dark, quick-drying, exceptionally well behaved, and cost-effective. I've used it with great results on lowest-bidder office pads and copy paper.

[Renfield]

R&K Salix is the one ink I have found not to bleed on even the cheapest of papers

[Harlequin]

I keep seeing choices that are IG inks. Perhaps that has something to do with it?

[Sandy1]

I keep seeing choices that are IG inks. Perhaps that has something to do with it?

 

Hi,

 

Some time ago I put forward the notion that 'FP-hostile' papers were becoming more wide-spread, so I-G inks would be chosen more often to meet the challenge of such papers.

 

In addition, it seems there is a current fashion for pens that are rather wet, both to generate the 'wet glistening line' admired by many and to overcome a range of [low QC/QA] manufacturing anomalies such as nibs with baby bottom & imperfect nib+feed set-up. As I-G inks are rather dry, they can run well from a wet pen.

 

So to get acceptable results on both sides of FP-hostile papers from wet pens, I-G inks come to the fore. That I-G inks are quite robust is also in their favour, not to mention their on-the-page charisma.

 

Bye,

S1

Edited August 31, 2013 by Sandy1

[danari]

I find the Kaweco sport classic with a medium nib and Kaweco royal blue ink cartridges does very well on problem papers that have bleed-through and feathering with other inks.

 

Since your Kaweco pen will come with a cartridge, try it before you jump to bottled ink. I love the variety of colors that bottled ink offers, but sometimes I forget that cartridges are not evil, and this was an excellent reminder for me.

[SeeksAdvice]

My thoughts. We use "Universal" brand paper here ...

 

For Black - If you want the ink to dry in a timely manner, then Sailor Kiwa-Guro. I like it better than Platinum's "Carbon Black." Unless you rub the heck out of it, once Kiwa-Guro is on that page, it's not going anywhere. I don't think I've ever seen that ink feather on our paper.

 

For Blue/Black - Sailor Sei-Boku, R&K Salix, Diamine Registrar's Ink (though it's really, really dry). Tsuki-yo is decent on bad paper, but it's not as "tight" I've found as Sei-Boku on the stuff.