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Sheaffer Imperial feed removal


underdradar

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I need to remove the feed from an Imperial in order to work on the nib. It seems that I need to remove the thin ring and then the clutch ring. Does the back end then unscrew? Anyone with experience doing this and who is also willing to help will be most appreciated. Thanks.

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The back end of the nib assembly unscrews to remove the feed. Then the trim ring and the clutch ring will come out.

 

You'll need section pliers, a piece of rubber tubing to slip over the threads, and gentle heat to soften the adhesive that holds the back in in place. Note how it comes apart, and don't loose the 0 ring that may be inside.

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Hey Ron, I wanted to do that with one of my Imperials, but am having a hard time getting it out. What kind of heat should I use, and how easily should it come out? Thanks!

 

Evan

Sheaffer all the way!

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Well, I got it out...but I can't tell if it is going back in correctly. Anyone have a diagram or some pictures to look at? They help me a lot. Thanks!

Sheaffer all the way!

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Well, I got it out...but I can't tell if it is going back in correctly. Anyone have a diagram or some pictures to look at? They help me a lot. Thanks!

Now you know why I said "note how it comes apart." I learned early on that it's useful to take things apart slowly so that you can see the relationship of the parts, and how they're assembled. Makes it easier to put them back together.

 

The feed has to be lined up carefully to get it to slide all of the way forward. The slit in the feed tube has to point up. The 0 ring goes between the feed and the nipple that screws into the section.

 

Note that there are a number of variations in design within the Imperial line. Metal barrel pens may be different from plastic; Touchdown different from cartridge pens, earlier models different from the latest ones. They look the same outside, but are different once you get them apart.

Edited by Ron Z

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Ok, thanks Ron. Mine is a touchdown. I know what the order is, but should everything be flush together? Also, the feed seems to rotate when I screw the nipple end back on.

 

Evan

Sheaffer all the way!

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I have several imperial TD models that have 3 different feed designs. One in particular looks alot like the Waterman Carene with the one "intake" hole on the underside. I wonder why all the changes were made in this particular pen. Anyone...anyone?

"I have very simple tastes, I am always satisfied with the very best." - Oscar Wilde

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I need to remove the feed from an Imperial in order to work on the nib. It seems that I need to remove the thin ring and then the clutch ring. Does the back end then unscrew? Anyone with experience doing this and who is also willing to help will be most appreciated. Thanks.

Hi. I hope this picture is of some help to you. I took it apart in response to an earlier post for help in getting at the three pronged clutch ring. The touchdown is only slightly different in that the threaded part that holds everything else in (and secures the sac) is plastic rather than metal.

 

Use great care with heating the section. Apply heat only around the area where the threads screw into the section. You'll note the redish color around the threads where the threadlock sealed it in originally. This is what you're trying to break free.

 

If you're really good you can use a lighter or something similar. I've used a gas stove burner before with great success. I've never wrecked a pen but like on TV, Don't try this at home. A heat gun is a much better idea.

 

You might even try hot water at about 140 degrees. Your tap should be able to supply it. But don't overdo it. Less is more so work up to it.

 

PeteWK

post-21-1171341028_thumb.jpg

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If you're really good you can use a lighter or something similar.  I've used a gas stove burner before with great success.  I've never wrecked a pen but like on TV, Don't try this at home.  A heat gun is a much better idea.

Good Lord!

:bonk: :bonk: :bonk: :bonk: :bonk: :bonk:

:doh: :doh: :doh:

:blink: :blink: :blink:

 

Do NOT heat your pen over the stove! Read my story about how I learned that you should never use open flame. (scroll down)

 

It's not a case of "do not try this at home!" It's "don't even think about it!"

 

Really.

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Ok, I got it apart and will put it back together. The threads on the "threaded part that holds everything" are stripped, soo...I might need a new one of those. This would be for a touchdown Imperial IV. Please PM me if anyone has one that they could give me. Thanks!

 

Evan

Sheaffer all the way!

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QUOTE (Ron Z @ Feb 13 2007, 09:12 PM)
QUOTE (PeteWK @ Feb 13 2007, 12:30 AM)
If you're really good you can use a lighter or something similar.  I've used a gas stove burner before with great success.  I've never wrecked a pen but like on TV, Don't try this at home.  A heat gun is a much better idea.

Good Lord!

wallbash.gif wallbash.gif wallbash.gif wallbash.gif wallbash.gif wallbash.gif

headsmack.gif headsmack.gif headsmack.gif

blink.gif blink.gif blink.gif

 

Do NOT heat your pen over the stove! Read my story about how I learned that you should never use open flame. (scroll down)

 

It's not a case of "do not try this at home!" It's "don't even think about it!"

 

Really.

Ron, what are you talking about? That's exactly what many (all?) of the old pen repair manuals instruct. Three or four generations of pen repairmen did exactly that, thousands of experts to be sure. The issue here is proper technique. And the trick is to use the heat coming off the flame but without exposing the plastic to the direct flame. One or two quick turns three or four inches above the flame should be enough to heat the plastic enough to break the bond of whatever is holding the threads in place.

 

The old ways are often the best ways.

 

Regards,

 

PeteWK

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  • 3 years later...

This is my hood from a Sheaffer Imperial Gold 14k Nib

 

Could you tell me how can I remove the feed from the inside of the hood???

 

http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/bb188/labmw320/PARKER51/DSCN8003.jpg

http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/bb188/labmw320/PARKER51/DSCN7998.jpg

http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/bb188/labmw320/PARKER51/DSCN8017.jpg

http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/bb188/labmw320/PARKER51/DSCN8049.jpg

 

Thanks in advance

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  • 1 month later...

for three months i've been trying to remove the feed of my 330, and it still won't move, even if i heat it until it burns my fingers when holding it. is there something that could be wicked trough the threads to soften the sealant without damaging the pen? if i get it open, what sealant is recommended for putting it all back together?

-Eclipse Flat Top-|-Parker "51" Aero-|-Sheaffer's Snorkel Sentinel-|-Esterbrook SJ-|-Sheaffer Imperial II Deluxe TD-|-Sheaffer 330-|-Reform 1745-|-PenUsa Genesis-|-Hero 616-|-Noodler's Flex-|-Schneider Voice-|-TWSBI Vac 700-

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Do <b>NOT</b> heat your pen over the stove! Read my story about how I learned that you should <a href='https://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=25156&hl=' target='_blank'>never use open flame.</a> (scroll down)

 

It's not a case of "do not try this at home!" It's "don't even think about it!"

 

Really. <!--QuoteEnd--> </td></tr></table><div class='postcolor'> <!--QuoteEEnd-->

Ron, what are you talking about? That's exactly what many (all?) of the old pen repair manuals instruct. Three or four generations of pen repairmen did exactly that, thousands of experts to be sure. The issue here is proper technique. And the trick is to use the heat coming off the flame but without exposing the plastic to the direct flame. One or two quick turns three or four inches above the flame should be enough to heat the plastic enough to break the bond of whatever is holding the threads in place.

 

The old ways are often the best ways.

 

Regards,

 

PeteWK

 

<sitting back with freshly popped corn/>

 

This should be good.

 

<calls bookie and lays down 50 on El Zorno>

 

Bruce in Ocala, FL

Edited by OcalaFlGuy
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