Scratchy Nib

[jetsam]

My "vintage" No Nonsense by Sheaffer arrived and the medium nib's a bit scratchy.

Is there any home remedy to this? I don't have any micro mesh and suchlike but there may be something else that works so I don't have to pay more than the pen to fix it.

[fabrimedeiros]

Did you look at the nib through a lupe?

[AndrewC]

Try loading it with ink and writing figure eights and loops on the side of a glass for a while. Vary the angle a little as you go. this will sometimes help a mildly scratchy nib. Also, check and see that the tines are aligned. If not, you can align them yourself (carefully) and that might put you right.

 

If the pen is NOS you might ask the seller if perhaps there is one with a less scratchy nib. Barring that, you could post a WTB and see if someone has an extra that is smooth that they'd sell for a few bucks. Good luck.

[balson]

many people suggest doing figure 8's on a brown paper bag to help with the smoothness.

 

you can read more about it in this thread as well as a few other tricks

https://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/index.php/topic/9637-oldgrizs-brown-paper-bag-trick/

[jetsam]

The tines look aligned through the loupe.

I was thinking of an Arkansas stone but I'll try the glass.

Good thing I checked first.

[jetsam]

The tines look aligned through the loupe.

I was thinking of an Arkansas stone but I'll try the glass.

Good thing I checked first.

The brown paper bag may be leaving fibers stuck between the tines because the ink flow was being interrupted.

[ac12]

As was mentioned, the first thing is to check the tine/tip alignment.

I had a scratchy pen that has a slightly miss-aligned tip. After I aligned the tip, the pen was nice and smooth.

 

The Arkansas stone is too aggressive for tip work, unless the tip needs major work.

You want a REAL MILD abrasive when you tune.

 

Do you have a nice ink flow out of the tip, or is it dryish?

A dry tip will feel more scratchy than a wet tip. The ink acts as a lubricant to make the tip flow over the paper better.

 

What paper are you using?

I can make a nice smooth writing nib write scratchy just by changing the paper that I write on.

[TimGirdler]

My "vintage" No Nonsense by Sheaffer arrived and the medium nib's a bit scratchy.

Is there any home remedy to this? I don't have any micro mesh and suchlike but there may be something else that works so I don't have to pay more than the pen to fix it.

 

PLEASE don't use the brown paper bag. PLEASE don't use an Arkansas stone.

 

If you really desire to do it yourself, please take the time to learn how to do it correctly. Or, of course, you could bring the pen to a pen show or send it to a nib worker.

 

You may not want to pay more for the nib work than you paid for the pen...but, the "cheap" ways of fixing a nib will likely end up costing you the nib, thereby costing much more in the long run.

 

Tim

 

[balson]

 

PLEASE don't use the brown paper bag. PLEASE don't use an Arkansas stone.

 

If you really desire to do it yourself, please take the time to learn how to do it correctly. Or, of course, you could bring the pen to a pen show or send it to a nib worker.

 

You may not want to pay more for the nib work than you paid for the pen...but, the "cheap" ways of fixing a nib will likely end up costing you the nib, thereby costing much more in the long run.

 

Tim

 

 

 

how can writing on a coarse paper like a brown paper bag do serious harm to the nib? i regularly make drawings on coarse papers with fountain pens and i have not had any issues with fibers getting stuck in the nib. any times i have had fibers in the nib they were easily resolved by running my finger along the bottom of the nib. the only time i ever end up with fibers clogging up a nib occurs when working the nib repeatedly over already wet areas of paper.

[TimGirdler]

how can writing on a coarse paper like a brown paper bag do serious harm to the nib? i regularly make drawings on coarse papers with fountain pens and i have not had any issues with fibers getting stuck in the nib. any times i have had fibers in the nib they were easily resolved by running my finger along the bottom of the nib. the only time i ever end up with fibers clogging up a nib occurs when working the nib repeatedly over already wet areas of paper.

 

If you'd allow me...please let me answer by asking that you peruse this thread: https://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/index.php/topic/247322-stub-smoothing/

 

The discussion is only about two months old and the topic of paper bags is thoroughly discussed, but not agreed upon.

 

Blessings,

 

Tim

[proton007]

To the OP:

 

If the tines are properly aligned, then some writing will smooth the nib. Figures of 8 on regular paper should remove the scratchiness.

 

Also, you haven't told us which strokes suffer from this scratchiness. Upwards, downwards or sideways?

Edited August 7, 2013 by proton007

[pokermon]

Totally agree with Tim. You want to do it properly even if it is a cheap nib. If you're going to have more than one fountain pen or will use a fountain pen regularly then you should keep a sheet of micromesh in your desk. It will last you close to a life time. I smooth alot of nibs on the pens I sell and I bought a 8x11 sheet of micromesh. I cut 3x3inch squares from it and after selling quite a few pens I'm still using my 2nd square.

[proton007]

Totally agree with Tim. You want to do it properly even if it is a cheap nib. If you're going to have more than one fountain pen or will use a fountain pen regularly then you should keep a sheet of micromesh in your desk. It will last you close to a life time. I smooth alot of nibs on the pens I sell and I bought a 8x11 sheet of micromesh. I cut 3x3inch squares from it and after selling quite a few pens I'm still using my 2nd square.

 

I agree but a micromesh is capable of doing some permanent damage if not used properly.

[pokermon]

 

I agree but a micromesh is capable of doing some permanent damage if not used properly.

Yes of course. Having proper tools is useless if you can't use them properly. Luckily smoothing a nib is not very difficult, and there are many videos and articles that even a novice can benefit from. But Proton brings up a good point. Which is even micromesh a ultra fine abrasive is still an abrasive.

[Bo Bo Olson]

First class paper & Second bags Only!!! .I always stress that since some poor fella used a hairy, fuzzy paper bag and complained about it.

Do not, repeat...do not use a hairy paper bag.

The problem is the generation here that can remember B&W TV, knows their paper bags...at a glance, even before they go fondle; a fine paper bag

Memories return of...Ah, the good old days of the nickel Snickers, Schlitz beer, and the Brooklyn Dodgers.

The Plastic Bag generation is 'noobie' to paper bags, thinking wrongly a paper bag is a paper bag...ain't.

 

So a good second class paper will do fine..

First class paper bags are extinct.

Those were the thin smooth, double glued together ones.

I have a stuffed one mounted on my wall next to the saber toothed tiger head..

Remember NO Hairy brown paper bags...it was in the Large print I keep repeating.

I use a brown paper bag to remove the micro-corrosion/rust of the 'iridium' tipping, of pens that have sat in the back of a desk for a couple of decades or generations.
I am no grinding a nib.

First I am after only good and smooth, not smearing butter all over the page.

Glass will work, it was what they sharpened their Gillette Blue Blades with back in WW2 rationing. An other has had good results with a mirror with some water on it...so the water don't wet the desk. I haven't tried it in I have a source for decent brown paper bags.

I write.in short 15 second sets, testing between sets.

While constantly rotating the nib to remove the;rust. and not make any flat spots or destroy the nib tipping geometry.

I do a fifteen second set of circles left & right, squiggles up & down, squiggles left & right..
Ol'Grizz says doing nothing but figure 8's will make baby bottom. Therefore, I only write figure 8's for some two or so seconds at the end of my set..

I check the nib after each set on regular paper. Sometimes I only need 3 sets. Often 4, seldom 6..
If I need more than six sets, it's time for micro mesh.

 

Do not go wildly just making figure 8's.

Richard Binder sends two throw away pens with his micro-mesh teaching sets...because you can grind your nib away...ruin the nib geometry Real Easy with micro-mesh...so you need to practice..

 

Yep, takes some practice learning to smoothly make circles and squiggles while rotating the nib By the end of the second set, I think most folks will have it down. Rotate the nib.You are not worried about making a nice looking line, but nib rotation.

 

I've never ruined a nib removing rust with a paper bag...but I was just returning the nib to good order not grinding at it.

Of course professionals don't need to deal with paper bags, they have the tools at wholesale.

What is expensive is a second question, and to who?

If you have a pen or two to spare to learn with...go to micro-mesh.

If you don't, and have checked the tines for alignment with a 10-12-15 X loupe, light use of the brown paper bag will not harm then nib.

DO NOT be Ham Fisted.

Especially on micro-mesh.

If you want butter smooth....go directly to micro-mesh.

If you want to remove iridium 'rust' or would like the stage under butter smooth which is good and smooth, then use a good quality paper bag.....by the way I've never ended up with any bag particles between my tines, in the four years I've been using the good quality brown paper bag.

Fact is I'm sending a fella a good brown paper bag tomorrow. The poor fella has no local good paper bag source. .

The biggest problem with those little micro-mesh beauty sticks is-- they are so tiny.
The sheets are better, but expensive...at least to me, who has to send across an ocean to get it. US post is extremely expensive when mailing international.

Yep, I had three nibs out of 50; vintage pens that the brown paper bag couldn't cure.
I write large on the paper bag, use all eight surfaces; inside and out, before getting a new one. I'm cheap.

As I keep saying a brown paper bag is not good for grinding stubs and making a nib butter smooth. It's great for removing iridium rust and making a nib good&smooth.

Did I mention I'm not into butter smooth. I've some butter smooth nibs. I use those three-four pens least.

Remember if you are far away from home, and run across a stash of good paper bags, stock up.

 

After posting this all sorts of garbage came up for underlining or making bold words.So it is not as pointed as I wish.

Edited August 7, 2013 by Bo Bo Olson

[jetsam]

I need to get some micro mesh (12000 ?) and brass sheets. The ink flow has now slowed down since I've been trying to smooth the nib on paper.

My nib tines look aligned to me but I can't think of any other reason for scratchyness.

What's the best way to align nib tines?

Many thanks for all the advice.

[cbaytan]

I know it's not what you want to hear but I purchased bunch of pens recently and had to use micro-mesh, brass sheet for flossing tines several times and mylar sheet (just once). I purchased all from gouletpens for cheap. Now suffering is over, my pens and I are couldn't be happier.

 

EDIT: I never use them before making sure tines are aligned very well under a magnifier

 

My "vintage" No Nonsense by Sheaffer arrived and the medium nib's a bit scratchy.

Is there any home remedy to this? I don't have any micro mesh and suchlike but there may be something else that works so I don't have to pay more than the pen to fix it.

Edited August 8, 2013 by cbaytan

[ac12]

To align the tines, you MUST use a loupe of 8x or more magnification to be able to see the 2 sides of the tip. You cannot see the tip well enough with the naked eye.

Then you VERY CAREFULLY adjust one side or the other to bring the tip of the tines into alignment. There are videos and instructions on how to do this, that is how I learned to align the tines. I think gouletpens.com has a video.

 

Yes you probably have paper dust in the slit of the tines jamming up the ink flow.

The tines could also be too close together, causing a dry tip, which will be scratchy.

A dry nib and a rough paper will both result in scratchy writing. You can't fix only one of the 3 parts of the puzzle. You need to address all 3; the pen, the ink and the paper.

[balson]

 

If you'd allow me...please let me answer by asking that you peruse this thread: https://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/index.php/topic/247322-stub-smoothing/

 

The discussion is only about two months old and the topic of paper bags is thoroughly discussed, but not agreed upon.

 

Blessings,

 

Tim

 

 

i am still curious though as to to how is this really any worse than the wear a pen would receive from writing on any other paper?

[pokermon]

Brown paper bags have minute amounts of clay in it which acts as an abrasive. I'm not going to dog the bag technique because I've used it when I first got into FPs, but the clay is not distributed evenly. And like I said if you're going to be in the fp hobby for a while then there are no substitutes for the right tools.