Mont Blanc Inks

[bullfighter]

I'm sure this question has been hashed over many times. Is there something about Mont Blanc inks that make them unsuitable for other pens? Being a beginner in the many varieties of inks, I've heard things like Waterman inks should only be used in Waterman pens, same for Mont Blanc. Is there some secret formulas these companies use that's different than Pelikan or Parker or Sheaffer? Or others?

 

I have a Mont Blanc 149 in which I've been using Pelikan black. It writes easily with great ink flow. I overpaid for a bottle of Mont Blanc Burgundy and tried it in the 149. The ink flow isn't as free as the Pelikan gives. Is there something I should know?

[MKIM97]

Generally, you can use any fountain pen ink brand in any pen. The two might not go along well together (flow skips, clogs, is too wet, etc.), but you shouldn't have any damage. Mont Blanc inks are iron gall, however, and iron gall inks require special maintenance, because they can be a bit damaging. That said, modern formulas are relatively safe.

 

Actually, Waterman inks are regarded as some of the best-behaved inks around, and many people use Waterman inks as their default in case they have a finicky pen.

Edited July 25, 2013 by MKIM97

[klw]

Although some inks work better in some pens, there is no reason to use only the manufacturer's ink. In general use any fountain pen ink in any fountain pen. Just stay away from India or callegraphy inks - they're poison.

[RudyR]

Montblanc inks are not iron gall except for one. Midnight Blue has a little iron gall but really not that much according to my sample. Any pen that has any type of iron gall ink in it should be flushed on a regular schedule.

 

The recommendation of using say Montblanc inks only in Montblanc pens I would have to say is, to avoid Montblanc pens being returned when used with inks other than Montblanc that do require a higher degree of pen hygiene. One statement that seems to occur on this forum is that Montblanc inks tend to be on the dry side. I must say though, that I use Montblanc inks more than other inks. A recent recall of Lavender Purple was initiated earlier but I have not found what the problem was.

 

For the most part, you are safe in using inks made by pen manufacturers like Waterman, Pelikan, Montblanc etc. I would recommend you stay with these inks until you learn more about inks and their properties before trying the boutique inks available. All inks do have the potential to be problematic if the pen it is used in is stored or used carelessly (like leaving a pen in the sun or uncapped for an extended time).

 

BTW, be sure and flush your pen properly when changing inks. Even if they are from the same company.

Edited July 26, 2013 by RudyR

[bullfighter]

Montblanc inks are not iron gall except for one. Midnight Blue has a little iron gall but really not that much according to my sample. Any pen that has any type of iron gall ink in it should be flushed on a regular schedule.

 

The recommendation of using say Montblanc inks only in Montblanc pens I would have to say is, to avoid Montblanc pens being returned when used with inks other than Montblanc that do require a higher degree of pen hygiene. One statement that seems to occur on this forum is that Montblanc inks tend to be on the dry side. I must say though, that I use Montblanc inks more than other inks. A recent recall of Lavender Purple was initiated earlier but I have not found what the problem was.

 

For the most part, you are safe in using inks made by pen manufacturers like Waterman, Pelikan, Montblanc etc. I would recommend you stay with these inks until you learn more about inks and their properties before trying the boutique inks available. All inks do have the potential to be problematic if the pen it is used in is stored or used carelessly (like leaving a pen in the sun or uncapped for an extended time).

 

BTW, be sure and flush your pen properly when changing inks. Even if they are from the same company.

That's another question, seems like different people have differing definitions of "flush your pen properly." One person says a little dish detergent, another says to use a little ammonia, someone else says to to use some sort of proprietary pen flush fluid for sale from pen repair facilities on the web. Still others say plain tap water is good enough. In fact The Goulet Pen company sent me a sample of their pen flush they say can be used again and again. I don't see how you can use a flush agent that's been contaminated with one ink to flush another pen cleanly.

 

Thanks for all the replies, I really appreciate it.

[lapis]

You can use any ink in any pen (as far as brands go). Some inks requirer more maintenance than others, especially Noodlers' and Private Reserves due to their high saturation. Others are very easily maintainable like Diamines, Iroshis and CdAs, Waterman, Skrip etc.

MB makes at present only one iron-gall ink, yes Midnight Blue, formerly sold as "Blue-Black". Even these are easy to maintain today and MB suggests washing at least every 3 months. If you do buy a brand new MB pen (like from an MB boutique) and then ever have any problems and take it in to MB for a repair, do tell them that of course you used only MB inks in it (even if you didn't).

 

MIke

[RudyR]

It depends on the ink. Plain cool to warm water is fine for most inks. In no case should you use hot water. I only use a very tiny itty bitty drop of detergent in the water when I need extra help when I have used one of the more highly saturated inks. The only time I would consider using a pen flush is if I were to use a high maintenance ink like a Noodlers Warden Series ink (like Bad Blue Heron, Bad Blue Kingfisher for instance). But if it really needs that extensive amount of chemistry, I just decide I really don't need to use it.

 

I believe most people use an ammonia / water or ammonia/detergent/water mixture for flushing a brand new pen. This removes any residual oils used in the manufacturing of the pen that may cause a nib to balk and provide satisfactory writing performance.

 

It is my opinion that that is why the Waterman brand of inks is so well regarded by some and boring by others. It's apparently the best overall well behaved and easy to clean ink of the whole ink world. Boring because the colors are not striking or highly saturated. Again, I would stick with those three inks I previously mentioned, Waterman, Pelikan and Montblanc (sans the Midnight Blue) until you learn more about inks. I would even go out on a limb and recommend the J Herbin inks with on exception, the much regarded 1670 Anniversary Edition Rouge Hematite (which even J Herbin in the included literature, says to be careful with this ink).

[RudyR]

Oh, geez, I forgot. Yeah, Skrip Ink. That one is safe too. And .... umm .... yeah...... Quink. And they are relatively inexpensive.

[MKIM97]

Oh! Only one MB iron gall ink? Sorry, I should have known the facts when explaining something.

 

I like my black Quink. It's boring, but easy to clean. I can't say the same for my Diamine inks.

[Sandy1]

Hi,

 

Unfortunately I think you got off on the wrong foot with MB Burgundy Red, as the other inks in the MB array are quite satisfactory. IMHO the MBBR seems watered down and doesn't behave very well. At first I thought I had a rogue bottle, but after checking the Ink Reviews, that wasn't the case.

 

I tried adding a bit of surfactant (Ilford Ilfotol) to the ink in hopes of improving the behaviour, but that gave me a very free-flowing ink with bad manners.

That said, I am very finicky about my Red-centric inks - I seldom use them, so want them to be outstanding when called upon.

 

As for pen cleaning:

• There are many different approaches due to there being different types of ink, different types of pens (plumbing) and different ways in which the pens are used/handled. So if I'm using a Washable aniline dye ink in a c/c daily writer, the clean-up will be much different should I use a waterproof cellulose-reactive ink with a high dye-load in a Parker Vacumatic with a poor cap seal that I keep inked-up but only use it once a month for a few jottings.
• I try a number of different approaches to cleaning a pen+ink combo, then settle on the one that gives a proper cleansing with the the fastest time and lowest effort, and exposes the pen to the least risk.
• Also, I think that my practice of not allowing ink to linger in an unused pen has contributed to the rarity of problems I encounter with overall FP use. So when I had a problem with MBBR, I was quite sure it wasn't rooted in the pens I used.

Bye,

S1

___ ___

See also: Limit to Soaking? https://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/index.php/topic/229245-limit-to-soaking/?p=2453755

Edited July 26, 2013 by Sandy1

[Bo Bo Olson]

That pen flush seems to work having been used with other ink...my bottles still unused...I've been forgetting it, using water as force of habit...even with old sat in the back of the drawer for a couple of generations.

 

The pen flush is of course flushed out too...with water.

 

Iron gall needs a 10-1 vinegar.

Ammonia is used for stubborn non Iron gall (supersaturated?) inks at 10-1.

 

Supersaturated inks need are on the whole...and I only have a couple take longer.

I only have a couple in I chase two toned shading inks...whom some of those who really like the neon vivid monotone supersaturated inks...say are "wishy-washy" or too pastel for them.

 

IMO they are not wishy washy....they are not neon vivid either. They can be more pastel...there are many different tones available. The PAPER and nib width & flex can make it like you have four different inks in the same bottle.

 

Some folks like the same monotone ink color in all nib widths...hard to do...but they look for that.

 

I look for two tones in the same letter...and in different tones depending on the nib width...and paper makes a big difference. For those kind of inks a Laser paper is better.

I don't know because I avoid Ink Jet paper like the plague, because it's designed to absorb ink as fast as possible...it swallows the shading.Some one who uses vivid mono-tone supersaturated inks all the time, might know more about that sort of paper for that kind of ink.

 

 

I'm still ignorant of what qualities are lost when using a combo paper...ink jet & laser.

Logic has little to do with fountain pens...so my logical thoughts could be false.

Fountain pens is not science....it's Alchemy.

 

 

Pelikan the 4001's are reputed to be one of the driest of the non-iron gall inks. That can thin a line from a nib.

The Edelstein inks are more lubricated. I like them too.

So I don't understand why it works better than your MB.

 

I use MB with no second thoughts. I don't have Burgundy,(I am glad that Sandy got here before me...it appears it is an ink with a problem. The com went down just as I hit the post button.) but would expect it to be 'wetter' than 4001 inks.

 

I have MB Sepia(discontinued), Toffee, Irish Green, Seasonal bottles of Winter Green, Meisterstuck Diamond, Swift and Collodi.

I have no problems with any of these inks in any of my pens.

Same goes for the 5-6 Herbin or a bit more in DA inks.

I only have a couple of Waterman also.

 

I do have two Noodler's inks, Golden Brown and Apache Sunset, but do clean those pens often, Some repair folks don't like Noodlers....all the noodler fans say...no problem.

 

Pelikan 4001 costs @ €4, as does Lamy

Waterman and Herbine about €7.00-7.50 or so.

DA can cost €9.50-11-15.

Pelikan Edelstein costs €13 like MB.

 

By me in Germany Japanese inks are offered for €49 on line....but I know some one in Berlin who gets it for only €24

 

So what did you pay for the MB ink?

Did you try the 149 with any other inks?

Edited July 26, 2013 by Bo Bo Olson

[Sasha Royale]

I find that the Pelikan 4001 inks, blu/blk and Royal Blue, flow especially well in any pen.

It is the ink I use to check out new pens. Looking into the bottle, through blood-shot eyes,

the 4001 ink seem "thinner" than Mb, Pr Res, or Noodler's.

[bullfighter]

That pen flush seems to work having been used with other ink...my bottles still unused...I've been forgetting it, using water as force of habit...even with old sat in the back of the drawer for a couple of generations.

 

The pen flush is of course flushed out too...with water.

 

Iron gall needs a 10-1 vinegar.

Ammonia is used for stubborn non Iron gall (supersaturated?) inks at 10-1.

 

Supersaturated inks need are on the whole...and I only have a couple take longer.

I only have a couple in I chase two toned shading inks...whom some of those who really like the neon vivid monotone supersaturated inks...say are "wishy-washy" or too pastel for them.

 

IMO they are not wishy washy....they are not neon vivid either. They can be more pastel...there are many different tones available. The PAPER and nib width & flex can make it like you have four different inks in the same bottle.

 

Some folks like the same monotone ink color in all nib widths...hard to do...but they look for that.

 

I look for two tones in the same letter...and in different tones depending on the nib width...and paper makes a big difference. For those kind of inks a Laser paper is better.

I don't know because I avoid Ink Jet paper like the plague, because it's designed to absorb ink as fast as possible...it swallows the shading.Some one who uses vivid mono-tone supersaturated inks all the time, might know more about that sort of paper for that kind of ink.

 

 

I'm still ignorant of what qualities are lost when using a combo paper...ink jet & laser.

Logic has little to do with fountain pens...so my logical thoughts could be false.

Fountain pens is not science....it's Alchemy.

 

 

Pelikan the 4001's are reputed to be one of the driest of the non-iron gall inks. That can thin a line from a nib.

The Edelstein inks are more lubricated. I like them too.

So I don't understand why it works better than your MB.

 

I use MB with no second thoughts. I don't have Burgundy,(I am glad that Sandy got here before me...it appears it is an ink with a problem. The com went down just as I hit the post button.) but would expect it to be 'wetter' than 4001 inks.

 

I have MB Sepia(discontinued), Toffee, Irish Green, Seasonal bottles of Winter Green, Meisterstuck Diamond, Swift and Collodi.

I have no problems with any of these inks in any of my pens.

Same goes for the 5-6 Herbin or a bit more in DA inks.

I only have a couple of Waterman also.

 

I do have two Noodler's inks, Golden Brown and Apache Sunset, but do clean those pens often, Some repair folks don't like Noodlers....all the noodler fans say...no problem.

 

Pelikan 4001 costs @ €4, as does Lamy

Waterman and Herbine about €7.00-7.50 or so.

DA can cost €9.50-11-15.

Pelikan Edelstein costs €13 like MB.

 

By me in Germany Japanese inks are offered for €49 on line....but I know some one in Berlin who gets it for only €24

 

So what did you pay for the MB ink?

Did you try the 149 with any other inks?

 

 

That pen flush seems to work having been used with other ink...my bottles still unused...I've been forgetting it, using water as force of habit...even with old sat in the back of the drawer for a couple of generations.

 

The pen flush is of course flushed out too...with water.

 

Iron gall needs a 10-1 vinegar.

Ammonia is used for stubborn non Iron gall (supersaturated?) inks at 10-1.

 

Supersaturated inks need are on the whole...and I only have a couple take longer.

I only have a couple in I chase two toned shading inks...whom some of those who really like the neon vivid monotone supersaturated inks...say are "wishy-washy" or too pastel for them.

 

IMO they are not wishy washy....they are not neon vivid either. They can be more pastel...there are many different tones available. The PAPER and nib width & flex can make it like you have four different inks in the same bottle.

 

Some folks like the same monotone ink color in all nib widths...hard to do...but they look for that.

 

I look for two tones in the same letter...and in different tones depending on the nib width...and paper makes a big difference. For those kind of inks a Laser paper is better.

I don't know because I avoid Ink Jet paper like the plague, because it's designed to absorb ink as fast as possible...it swallows the shading.Some one who uses vivid mono-tone supersaturated inks all the time, might know more about that sort of paper for that kind of ink.

 

 

I'm still ignorant of what qualities are lost when using a combo paper...ink jet & laser.

Logic has little to do with fountain pens...so my logical thoughts could be false.

Fountain pens is not science....it's Alchemy.

 

 

Pelikan the 4001's are reputed to be one of the driest of the non-iron gall inks. That can thin a line from a nib.

The Edelstein inks are more lubricated. I like them too.

So I don't understand why it works better than your MB.

 

I use MB with no second thoughts. I don't have Burgundy,(I am glad that Sandy got here before me...it appears it is an ink with a problem. The com went down just as I hit the post button.) but would expect it to be 'wetter' than 4001 inks.

 

I have MB Sepia(discontinued), Toffee, Irish Green, Seasonal bottles of Winter Green, Meisterstuck Diamond, Swift and Collodi.

I have no problems with any of these inks in any of my pens.

Same goes for the 5-6 Herbin or a bit more in DA inks.

I only have a couple of Waterman also.

 

I do have two Noodler's inks, Golden Brown and Apache Sunset, but do clean those pens often, Some repair folks don't like Noodlers....all the noodler fans say...no problem.

 

Pelikan 4001 costs @ €4, as does Lamy

Waterman and Herbine about €7.00-7.50 or so.

DA can cost €9.50-11-15.

Pelikan Edelstein costs €13 like MB.

 

By me in Germany Japanese inks are offered for €49 on line....but I know some one in Berlin who gets it for only €24

 

So what did you pay for the MB ink?

Did you try the 149 with any other inks?

The bottle of Mont Blanc Burgundy (apparently a poor choice for a first try at MB ink) cost me $18.00 USD. The first ink I tried in the 149 was black Parker Quink and that flowed quite well. The pen was a gift and I believe it has what would be considered a broad nib so it laid down a wet line, very satisfactory although it took a moment or two to dry on Rhodia paper. As you know the 149 has the ink capacity of a tanker so I hadn't flushed it since filling it some months ago. When I did flush it and filled it with the MB Burgundy I was disappointed that the pen didn't lay down the same strength of line as the Parker.

[bullfighter]

Wow. I was/am a collector of watches and as I get further in to this fountain pen genre I am realizing that there are a lot more variables with pens than watches. And that it isn't always about the pen itself but what you put into it to make it write right. The only variable in watches that I was able to grasp was what manner of strap or bracelet you chose to wear. Which, of course, had no bearing at all on how the watch actually kept time. I was not one to disassemble the inner guts of any watch. And I'm still not at the stage where I can confidently field strip an old Parker 51, clean all the parts and reassemble it and have it back in action. There's a lot to learn here and I feel secure in the advice given here by the veterans of the sport.

 

I noticed in one of the stores I visit that Higgins has a black ink for fountain pens along with their India inks for other purposes. Has anyone tried the Higgins and what are the opinions? It's a relatively inexpensive ink like Parker and Sheaffer.

 

Thanks again for all the knowledgeable replies.

[Opooh]

 

 

The bottle of Mont Blanc Burgundy (apparently a poor choice for a first try at MB ink) cost me $18.00 USD. The first ink I tried in the 149 was black Parker Quink and that flowed quite well. The pen was a gift and I believe it has what would be considered a broad nib so it laid down a wet line, very satisfactory although it took a moment or two to dry on Rhodia paper. As you know the 149 has the ink capacity of a tanker so I hadn't flushed it since filling it some months ago. When I did flush it and filled it with the MB Burgundy I was disappointed that the pen didn't lay down the same strength of line as the Parker.

I thought a 149 is always delivered with a bottle of ink, they even let you choose.the colour.

[bullfighter]

I thought a 149 is always delivered with a bottle of ink, they even let you choose.the colour.

My 149 was a gift from a cousin, along with a handful of other pens he no longer wanted, in trade for a watch I had that he'd admired. No ink bottle, no box, no instructions, etc.

[georges zaslavsky]

I have been using MB inks in three of my 149s and never got any trouble. You can use MB inks safely