Show Us Your Oblique Penholders!

[Stompie]

Musinkman, thinking of possible ways around the cutting a slot problem - what if you made the entire handle part of the slot?

So, instead of cutting straight through for just the length of the slot, what if you increased that to half way/ all the way up the handle, then, just trimmed away slightly for the area needed to accomodate the flange?

 

 

http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/jj229/Popsjill/pens/DSCN1437_zps11734f19.jpg

[Mickey]

Personally, I'm not all that bothered by a flange slot that's a little long, but for those who are, cutting a tiny stop hole and (patiently) raising the angle of the razor saw as one approaches the hole will minimize the problem. (The center hole provides enough travel if the saw teeth are fine enough.)

 

As for making a flange, below is my recipe for making them, including a rough illustration. A hobby vise (any vise for that matter) would make the process easier, allowing one to clamp the 'blank' and bend the curve over a drill bit or similar. Sequence is important. N.b., the angles are approximate, especially 106 degrees. Following Step 10 will set that angle more reliably. There are undoubtedly better ways to do this, but this method does work.

 

 

1) Fold in half 3 inches of brass sheet (c. 010" thick) over a spacer sheet of similar thickness and press flat (in a vise, if handy)

2) Remove the spacer sheet and cut the folded portion off the rest of the sheet

3) Score the folded sheet with a series of 72 degree guide lines, spaced ½ inch apart. (With the fold on the bottom, the lines run from high on the left to low on the right.)

4) Cut along the scored lines to produce several flange blanks. (Trauma or Bandage shears work pretty well for this.)

5) Put masking tape or similar on both sides of the blank. I use Micropore surgical tape.

6) Place the fold on the left, the slant running from right high to left low. One half inch from the fold, draw on the tape a line parallel to the fold

7) Open the fold and insert a sacrificial layer of brass between layers; Close fold. Make sure this spacer stays snug against the fold for next 2 operations.

8) Gradually bend (arch) the left side of the brass, being careful that the spacer does not slip and that the channel being formed is absolutely parallel to the fold and does not extend past the line from step 6. (This is where a vise might help.)

9) When the bend is a smooth arc of nearly 180 degrees, remove the spacer and insert a nib and test that the channel just formed is parallel to the folded edge. Remove the nib and reinsert the spacer. Clamp the flange in your pliers and lock in the arc by bending the free ends (together) sharply 90 degrees upward. Remove spacer. It should now looks almost like a flange.

10 ) Insert a nib. Take your holder, slot facing up, and lay the flange over the slot. Slide and turn the flange until the nib point is on the center line and is pointed in the desired direction. Mark a line on the flange where the slot crosses it. Remove the nib

 

11) Slide the top layer of brass slightly to the left, so that the top and bottom layer creases formed in step 9 are tightly nested. (See the crescent shaped opening?) While keeping the creases together, clamp along the line drawn in step 10, then spread the free ends, and bend them very sharply 90 degrees in opposite directions. This end should look like the letter T.

12) Trim off the arms of the T, leaving less than a 16th inch of each arm. This forms the key that locks the flange in the holder..

13) Trim, grind, burnish, and file off any rough edges. Remove the tape.

14) Slide the key end of the flange into the holder and, if necessary, stabilize with a wooden match stick or Stimudent. Glue in, if desired.

15) Insert a nib, and while holding the end of the holder firmly (to avoid having the wood split) adjust the rake angle and turn-in, as shown in the Dr. Vitolo video.

Edited May 17, 2013 by Mickey

[Stompie]

http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/jj229/Popsjill/pens/DSCN1443_zps5d0dbc90.jpg

[Mickey]

8) Gradually bend (arch) the left side of the brass, being careful that the spacer does not slip and that the channel being formed is absolutely parallel to the fold and does not extend past the line from step 6. (This is where a vise might help.)

 

9) When the bend is a smooth arc of nearly 180 degrees, remove the spacer and insert a nib and test that the channel just formed is parallel to the folded edge. Remove the nib and reinsert the spacer. Clamp the flange in your pliers and lock in the arc by bending the free ends (together) sharply 90 degrees upward. Remove spacer. It should now looks almost like a flange.

 

 

After some more experimenting this morning (using a hobbyist vice) I wish to amend steps 8 and 9. The changes apply with or without a vice.

 

8. One half inch from the fold, draw a line parallel to it. Along this line, bend the right side of the blank sharply up 90 degrees.

 

9. With round nosed pliers, bend the left side of the blank (the side with the fold) into a near half circle channel, being careful that the spacer does not slip and that the edges of the channel are parallel. Remove the spacer. It should now look very much like a flange.

 

Continue the rest of the steps.

 

I can make a perfectly useful flange and fit it in a holder in less than five minutes using this method. (Pretty, however, takes somewhat longer.)

Edited May 17, 2013 by Mickey

[Pterodactylus]

Hi Mickey,

thanks for the detailed description.

[DanF]

What is a good diameter for the hole that the flange sets into?

 

Dan

[Mickey]

What is a good diameter for the hole that the flange sets into?

 

Dan

 

5/64" - 3/32" (Really)

[DanF]

Thanks again!

 

Dan

[thang1thang2]

I said what? WHere? When?

 

I'm terribly sorry. I managed to get you and Mickey confused and at th same time mangle what he said... I guess finals week has been getting to me more than I realize.

[MusinkMan]

I gotta get to making flanges...and I need some back pills too. Bending over that lathe for hours every day is taking it's toll on the ol' lumbar.

 

I'm trying some red pearl in a couple of these. My wife says my hands look like a garbage collector's hands...full of stain that is sealed in with epoxy resin and CA glue. I'm a mess!

 

[thang1thang2]

I gotta get to making flanges...and I need some back pills too. Bending over that lathe for hours every day is taking it's toll on the ol' lumbar.

 

I'm trying some red pearl in a couple of these. My wife says my hands look like a garbage collector's hands...full of stain that is sealed in with epoxy resin and CA glue. I'm a mess!

 

 

 

Those look awesome! If you're having back problems, you should probably try sitting down somehow or adjusting the lathe so you don't have to bend over it. Keep up the awesome work!

[MusinkMan]

Thank you Thang1&2! I'm glad you dig 'em. They are just so time consuming to make. The cutting, arranging, and glue-ups are a killer. And of course drying time...I'm learning about patience as well as backache. LOL!

[caliken]

Musinkman, Salman & DanF

 

Thanks for posting the pics of your wonderful pens. I keep coming back to this thread for another 'fix'!

 

Ken

Edited May 22, 2013 by caliken

[Stompie]

http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/jj229/Popsjill/pens/DSCN1448_zpse8b67ae6.jpg

[MusinkMan]

You're welcome, Stompie. The long red one was an old experimental one...the other one, however, should be the real deal. I'm glad they finally made it...long trip overseas...I would have thought it would be quicker...but I guess when customs gets involved and all it causes delays. No matter, I'm glad they made it!

[smk]

MusinkMan, I have realized that the only way I can be regular with my practice is to acquire a couple of your beautiful penholders :-)

 

I'm glad Ken started this thread, it has been more than inspirational.

 

Salman

[MusinkMan]

Aw, thank you Salman. PM me, and we'll see what we can do about that! :-)

[Mickey]

One more photo contribution to this thread:

 

 

Here are the products of some experiments Musinkman and I have been doing. The goal was to produce a holder with the center of gravity between the first and second knuckle of my index finger, just slightly forward of where a Nakaya Long Writer balances in my hand. In the end, he produced 3 holders.

 

It should be noted that I am not easy to fit. I wear size 15 shoes and my hands are similarly up-sized. Unfortunately, few ergonomic feature scale up linearly, so we had to play with the spec. more than a little to get that perfect fit. There's the expression "walk a mile in my shoes." In this case, it should probably be "write a short story with my pen."

 

The bottom holder was the first one produced. (It is now the property of 'She Who Must Be Obeyed.) As originally created, the holder was a little back heavy. The grip also felt small in my hand, though it is not the smallest diameter holder in my rotation. After reducing the size (and mass) of the finial and ever so slightly thinning the last 2 inches of the shaft, the center of balance is just about perfect (for SWMBO), right on the second padauk (red) ring. (The nib is an Esterbrook 128.)

 

Naturally, we over-reacted with the second (middle) holder, dubbed 'Stumpy', and put the balance rather too far forward. Stumpy is not ideal in my hand for long writing sessions, but works remarkably well for short stretches with mapping nibs and other small, flexible, and delicate points. For someone with short(er) fingers, who likes a handful of holder, this could easily become a general purpose holder. (The nib is an Esterbrook 355.)

 

The top holder is the third and final (for now) effort. The center of balance is about 2 inches from the front (6 1/2 inches on the ruler), right where we wanted it. Eureka! (The nib is an Esterbrook 358.)

 

The next project (for me) is building a stiffer flange, not rigid, but one with more snap back than I've been able to get with .010" half-hard brass. I have a sheet of .008" spring-temper phosphor bronze on order. (There may be some annealing in my future.) I'll report when I know more.

Edited June 6, 2013 by Mickey

[thang1thang2]

Why would you want a stiffer flange? The flange shouldn't move at all in normal writing, so why would it matter much? (just wondering)

 

The holders look marvelous! I'm itching to make some of mine own... Especially a flange or two. But what I need most of all is new nibs. All of my nibs are more or less ruined due to inexperience. The leonart principal is just showing its age. The 303 is rusted almost completely through due to not taking it out of the holder and forgetting to dry it enough. The 404 and others, I think, might still have promise. I'll just have to work more thoroughly with them. It's odd to work with stiffer nibs, though, as I dearly love the fast flexibility of the principal, though I never use all of the flex in it (or even half, really).

 

Iron gall ink, I think, is the second item on the list to get. All I have is sumi ink, and my hairlines are far too thick for my tastes. Worse yet, I can't figure out how to thin them no matter what I do.

[Mickey]

Why would you want a stiffer flange? The flange shouldn't move at all in normal writing, so why would it matter much? (just wondering)

 

The holders look marvelous! I'm itching to make some of mine own... Especially a flange or two. But what I need most of all is new nibs. All of my nibs are more or less ruined due to inexperience. The leonart principal is just showing its age. The 303 is rusted almost completely through due to not taking it out of the holder and forgetting to dry it enough. The 404 and others, I think, might still have promise. I'll just have to work more thoroughly with them. It's odd to work with stiffer nibs, though, as I dearly love the fast flexibility of the principal, though I never use all of the flex in it (or even half, really).

 

Iron gall ink, I think, is the second item on the list to get. All I have is sumi ink, and my hairlines are far too thick for my tastes. Worse yet, I can't figure out how to thin them no matter what I do.

 

Regarding flanges: there is stiff and then there is stiff. Half hard brass, the material used by a number of boutique holder makers, is pretty soft. It flexes, not something I want when I'm using a fairly stiff nib, like an Esterbrook 358, 128, Hunt 56, etc. With softer nibs, I don't mind a little 'help' from the flange.

 

If you want a great deal on quality nibs, check this out.

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/111025860628?ru=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fsch%2Fi.html%3F_from%3DR40%26_sacat%3D0%26_nkw%3D111025860628%26_rdc%3D1

 

The price is about 23 cents per nib and these are quality vintage points. This price is a steal just for the 357s and it would be a pretty good price just for the 358s. Instead, you get 28 or 29 of each, plus nearly 90 other points, all of them useful. In my opinion, no one is making nibs of this quality anymore.

Edited June 5, 2013 by Mickey