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Noodler´s Ahab - Ease My Flex Mod


Pterodactylus

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Dear Ptero, thank you for your mod suggestion!

 

It was a bit of a struggle as my dremmel wouldn't charge so I couldn't quite file it down as far as I might have done but I have to say... incredibly, this modification seems to have sorted all my problems!! I had flow issues too with this pen where it would write for one sentence and then dry up. But now it all seems to work fine: flow's good, nice line variety, easier flex and a nice-looking pen!

 

I'm happy.

 

attachicon.gifSDC10219.jpg

 

That acrylic model is beautiful! I don't remember seeing that one when they came out.

fpn_1451747045__img_1999-2.jpg

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I am just getting started repairing and modifying pens and I think this mod looks great. I am restoring a few pens now but they should be done by the end of the week. That is if I can ever get the section off the Sheaffer I have had soaking for two days now. So I will try this mod on my Konrad as my next project. Thanks to all those who have braved this before me.

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Other's examples post-EMF are considerably more inspiring, but fwiw:

 

http://i41.tinypic.com/281evrq.jpg

 

http://i42.tinypic.com/vy34f4.jpg

 

Cheers, Al

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Grainweevil and Callique: What ink did you use in your example?

Breathe. Take one step at a time. Don't sweat the small stuff. You're not getting older, you are only moving through time. Be calm and positive.

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Sinistral1, I used Diamine Syrah. It appears to have become a favourite when I wasn't looking.

 

Pterodactylus, it took me about ten minutes with the actual file in hand - more time was spent taping up the nib with some masking tape as guidelines and then stopping to check it was coming out symmetrically. The nib is very easy to file; rather softer than the teeth on a decent hand saw, by my estimation. I actually have a Dremel, but the file seemed to me to be the easier choice for such small work.

 

Chers, Al

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Okay, I've dremeled my way into history and here's a photo of my first attempt. I need to make the indents deeper but I'm surprised at how much easier It is to flex. Used Organic Studios L Frank Baum Emerald City Green on Clairfontaine note paper. Pen is Ahab with original nib. Question - do y'all take the breather tubes out or leave them in?post-22021-0-64170500-1383337036_thumb.jpg

Breathe. Take one step at a time. Don't sweat the small stuff. You're not getting older, you are only moving through time. Be calm and positive.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hello folks, this is my first post here, just to thank Ptero for his publication. Here´s a picture of one of my Konrads with his mod. Thank you very much, man!!!

 

post-108210-0-29296200-1384097545_thumb.jpg

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Hi,

 

You may remember me from a while back - you suggested this mod to me in my review of the Konrad.

Now I've finally done it - if not gone a little overboard :lol:.

 

http://i.imgur.com/0avgpTHh.jpg?1

http://i.imgur.com/RCA5YPah.jpg?1

 

As you can see, I've taken off quite a bit more material than you have and also ground the nib to a hairline/EEF.

This resulted in a verrrry flexible nib that can produce hairline (~0.25mm) to 2.5mm line variation - I've checked with a precision ruler + loupe.

It is beyond compare to the original in regards to ease of flex and of course, the line variation. I'm still not used to how easily flexible it is, as you can evidently see in my writing sample.

The aesthetics of the nib took a little getting used to (I think it resembles a Namiki Falcon), but the trade-off is believable. :D

 

Thanks

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I'm curious - did you do the mod with just the half-oval piece removed first, and then decide to go for broke and take the whole shoulder off and make it an extra fine point, too? We're you not pleased with the ease of flex achieved with the less drastic half-oval mod only? I'm going to go back and remove more off the shoulders of my Ahab. Your pen writes very nicely - way to go!

Breathe. Take one step at a time. Don't sweat the small stuff. You're not getting older, you are only moving through time. Be calm and positive.

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I'm curious - did you do the mod with just the half-oval piece removed first, and then decide to go for broke and take the whole shoulder off and make it an extra fine point, too? We're you not pleased with the ease of flex achieved with the less drastic half-oval mod only? I'm going to go back and remove more off the shoulders of my Ahab. Your pen writes very nicely - way to go!

 

Thanks for the compliment!

I initially did the EF grind and half-oval removal, and was quite satisfied with the result. But then I wondered how much further I could 'improve' it and went for the whole shebang.

I was worried whether the nib would spring too easily, but that proved to be not the case.

Just to be sure though, I bent the tip of the nib slightly downwards (shown in the 2nd pic) - I got the idea from the design of some vintage flex nibs and I'm not sure how, but it seems to resist springing better.

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Squeteague:

 

Thanks for the info. I've noticed those nibs with the downward bend at the tip, too. What tool(s) did you use for the grinding or filing? I have to wonder, if it's this easy to mod a steel nib to great flex, why are none of the pen company's offering flexible steel nibs? Maybe there's just not enough of us flex freeks to make that a profitable venture for them.

Breathe. Take one step at a time. Don't sweat the small stuff. You're not getting older, you are only moving through time. Be calm and positive.

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Squeteague:

 

Thanks for the info. I've noticed those nibs with the downward bend at the tip, too. What tool(s) did you use for the grinding or filing? I have to wonder, if it's this easy to mod a steel nib to great flex, why are none of the pen company's offering flexible steel nibs? Maybe there's just not enough of us flex freeks to make that a profitable venture for them.

 

I used a dremel tool + attachments similar to that of Pterodactylus for removal, but gave it breaks between grinding because I was afraid the heat produced might temper/alter the properties of the steel nib - make it brittle or whatnot. I know next to nothing regarding metalworking so I'm not sure if it had any effect, or whether the heat produced is great enough to take into consideration, but the steel seems fine. :D

You have to be careful to grind away near the tip of the nib like shown below instead of into (if that makes sense):

http://i.imgur.com/76RvkPI.png?1

This is to make sure that you're not risking injuring yourself - if you grind into the nib, the tip might get snagged and fling the nib out of control at high speed. You might also damage the nib/tines/tipping if that happens. So grind away, go slow, and take your time.

I also did this when grinding the nib to an EF, but at a much lower RPM and a muuuuch lower grit attachment - almost a polishing piece. Otherwise you may find that your pen's missing a tip. :lol: Then I just smoothed it all out with micromesh. But as a disclaimer, I've never used a vintage flex, so I don't have a reference for comparison but I think the pen is now at the very least a true flex instead of semi-flex. It's definitely nowhere near a wet noodle - I've compared with a Hunt 99 dip nib which many people consider to be a wet noodle. I still think that's pretty respectable for a steel nib. :)

 

And regarding your second bit, I can only hope that Mr. Tardif incorporates this design into his next pen. As for other companies, I think catering for a minority (flex users) within a minority (fountain pen users) might be too risky a venture.

Edited by Squeteague
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Phase 3 now complete. Testing to begin tomorrow!

Breathe. Take one step at a time. Don't sweat the small stuff. You're not getting older, you are only moving through time. Be calm and positive.

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Here's where I'm at so far:

post-22021-0-33918500-1384462064_thumb.jpgpost-22021-0-24770700-1384462097_thumb.jpg

Breathe. Take one step at a time. Don't sweat the small stuff. You're not getting older, you are only moving through time. Be calm and positive.

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Ptero, I took the plunge and tried taking the wings off the FPR flex nib this weekend - going for the streamlined style rather than the semi-circular cut-out this time, because the FPR doesn't have much depth to put such a notch. I was disappointed; made very little difference. Looking at the nib it does appear that the cross-section of the steel gets noticeably thicker quite quickly once the nip starts to curve, so perhaps it needs to be thinned to get any noticeable improvement. Rather beyond my skills, I suspect. Anyway, I look forward to seeing your results; hopefully I just made the wrong choice in where to remove material.

 

Squeteague, those are most impressive results. I, too, wondered about doing similar, but worried about the long-term integrity of the nib, so I value your bravery as guinea-pig! Keep us posted.

 

Cheer, Al

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