Teflon Paste For Eyedroppers

[red52ripple]

Silicone Grease is a lubricant and not a sealant. Therefore, we might inadvertently over-tighten and damage the plastic threads. Plastic threads require leak-proof sealing, not lubrication. I had explained in detail in the link supplied.

 

Silicone grease is designed to be both a lubricant and a sealant. Many older eyedropper fillers benefit from both properties. Over-tightening threads is down to simple bad practice, not the presence of a lubricant. I've used silicone grease for many years on both my own pens and those I restore for sale. No problems. Not one. Sparingly applied, and applied only when necessary, it's the best sealant for eyedropper pens.

Edited January 25, 2013 by red52ripple

[theoneanalog]

Eyedropper conversions to the Kaweco usually include some sort of thread sealant or O-rings; Brian Goulet just uses silicone grease while Swisher used to sell eyedroppers with O-rings. I do want to be sure that no ink leaks when I'm using the pen as an EDC.

 

I use both with all my EDs. An o-ring is, IMO, a good way to avoid the temptation to over-tighten. You know you've reached the o-ring well before the threads are tight.

 

Oh, quick question, then, if you own a Kaweco Sport ED: how and where would you install the O-ring on the section? I know Swisher used to do this but I haven't seen a proper picture.

[watch_art]

Just slip the o ring up over the section threads, all the way up, and then put the barrel on.

[Vintagepens]

He's referring to a rosin/castor oil paste, I believe.

 

Rosin/castor oil mixture is both a sealer & an adhesive. It should not be used on an eye dropper due the adhesive property. Otherwise dry heat will need to be applied to remove the section whenever it's time to add ink.

 

That depends on the formulation. It can be made up so that it remains quite wet and tacky at room temperature. But adhesive it is, nonetheless: it would make opening and closing the pen a real pain, not to mention all the mess from dirt and dust that would inevitably end up packed into the threads.

[brahmam]

My recommendation of RCP is strictly for the feed section threads in an eye-dropper fountain pens and not for any other threads such as those in cap, etc.

 

I did a bit of experimentation with RCP (Rosin-Castor Oil Paste - 67%-33% mix). It is not an adhesive at all. Adhesive sets. RCP doesn't. RCP retains its stickiness for a long time. I suggest you try making a small quantity for yourself. It is easy to make. Pure rosin, I agree, sets and could behave like an adhesive.

 

Regarding tightening, we all know that threads hold (clamping force) not due to friction, but due to tension. In other words, for the same tightening torque, a lubricated thread is subjected to higher tension. Silicone grease is an ok sealant - agreed (due to immiscibility with ink and stickiness with plastic). However, we want some viscous effect while tightening, not a slippery effect. RCP gives you this viscous effect, unlike silicone grease. Feels good on your fingers while you tighten or loosen.

 

BTW, I had been using Silicone grease for a long, long time. Then some literature search helped me discover that people had used RCP for FP threads. So, RCP is not my discovery. I did quite a bit of experimentation though with various ratios and the recommended ratio 2:1, Rosin:Castor Oil, seems to work the best.

 

I could place RCP as a healthy compromise between Shellac and Silicone Grease. I do have to disagree with David that "opening and closing the pen" is a real pain - actually you have a pleasant feel. Of course, I repeat, my recommendation of RCP is strictly for the feed section threads in an eye-dropper fountain pens and not for any other threads such as those in cap, etc. I do not also see as to how dirt and dust could accumulate on feed threads. These threads are not visible when tight and hence dirt and dust would not find their way into the threads. Quite clean actually. Unless we try things out, discussions do tend to become theoretical.

 

Having said all these, you might perhaps try RCP on some cheap, dispensable plastic threads (may be threads of some old ball-point pens) and use it on "real" fountain pens only after gaining confidence. Standard disclaimers apply :-)

 

Best wishes to you all,

Brahmam

 

 

 

He's referring to a rosin/castor oil paste, I believe.

 

Rosin/castor oil mixture is both a sealer & an adhesive. It should not be used on an eye dropper due the adhesive property. Otherwise dry heat will need to be applied to remove the section whenever it's time to add ink.

Edited January 26, 2013 by brahmam

[FarmBoy]

I have several mixes of RCP and would newer use them on the threaded joint of an eye dropper filled pen. Rosin mixtures even dilute will remain tacky and will attract dirt as suggested. The collective body of repair experience points toward the use of silicon grease in this application. I would also avoid Teflon paste as I contains more than just Teflon. I can think of only one application of Teflon use in pen repair and this isn't it.

 

Best in pen repair to all

FB

[Vintagepens]

While rosin-based sealants have been used for a long time on threaded joints, they have always been used on joints which were not routinely opened: pump-filler and plunger-filler sections, safety packing housings, etc. I have never seen any old-time recommendations that a rosin sealant be used on an eyedropper joint, which is opened frequently and routinely.

 

The claim that lubricating eyedropper threads will overstress them is a prime example of letting theory trump experience. In this instance, we have over a century of real-life experience to draw upon. If you want to use a rosin sealant on an eyedropper, feel free to do so. But experience points unanimously (minus one, it appears) to silicone grease.

[brahmam]

I see your point David... I just apply a tiny bit of RCP and it seems to work much, much better than Silicone grease. However, my experience is barely two months old! So, you win :-)

 

Best wishes,

Brahmam

Edited January 28, 2013 by brahmam

[hari317]

While rosin-based sealants have been used for a long time on threaded joints, they have always been used on joints which were not routinely opened: pump-filler and plunger-filler sections, safety packing housings, etc. I have never seen any old-time recommendations that a rosin sealant be used on an eyedropper joint, which is opened frequently and routinely.

 

The claim that lubricating eyedropper threads will overstress them is a prime example of letting theory trump experience. In this instance, we have over a century of real-life experience to draw upon. If you want to use a rosin sealant on an eyedropper, feel free to do so. But experience points unanimously (minus one, it appears) to silicone grease.

 

David, what was the recommended lubricant/sealant for the eyedropper joint in the days before Silicone compounds became commonly available?

 

Hari

[mhosea]

 

David, what was the recommended lubricant/sealant for the eyedropper joint in the days before Silicone compounds became commonly available?

 

Did they even recommend any sealant in the heyday of EDs?

[hari317]

 

David, what was the recommended lubricant/sealant for the eyedropper joint in the days before Silicone compounds became commonly available?

 

Did they even recommend any sealant in the heyday of EDs?

I have no idea, but I guess repair shops of that day must have applied something there to help careless customers.

[brahmam]

My dad used to apply a small amount of ordinary bearing grease on FP threads. But that was more than three decades ago... Silicone grease was unheard of in India in those days. These days a lots of electronic stores in India carry silicone grease (to lubricate gear trains in laser printers perhaps)....

Cheers!

Brahmam

 

 

David, what was the recommended lubricant/sealant for the eyedropper joint in the days before Silicone compounds became commonly available?

 

Did they even recommend any sealant in the heyday of EDs?

[Ron Z]

I would think that bees wax would work well on an eyedropper. It is soft, would fill the threads, is hydrophobic, tacky, but not as tacky as thread sealant, or as slippery as silicone grease.

 

I do worry about silicone grease being a bit too slippery, making it easier to over tighten a section. Not "dangerous" but perhaps a bit more risky. Not everyone has "calibrated fingers" and may over do it.

[Vintagepens]

I have yet to see any evidence for any sealant being used for ED threads in the old days -- nothing in instructions given out to customers, nothing in manuals given out to salesmen and repairmen. Yet a sealant seems to be a very good idea, nonetheless: not just to prevent leakage, but also to help prevent jammed sections (which, I do believe, is much more a problem in real life than sections so loose that they spontaneously unscrew).

 

Beeswax would be a logical sealant, and I first tried it out many years ago when I had a Waterman ED that needed a little help staying airtight.

 

As for silicone grease, Todd noted early on in this thread that in many cases it is formulated primarily as a sealant, not as a lubricant. The silicone grease I use is thick, viscous, and not slippery at all. On some threaded joints, there would actually be less friction with clean ungreased threads than with greased threads.

 

PS Brahmam, if rosin sealant works for you, you win!

[brahmam]

Dave... but you did give me a scare!!!! :roflmho:

 

BTW, you got to play a bit fair here. RonZ has just said that Silicone Grease is "risky" if not dangerous. He deserves a response from you! Can you believe that! He had just criticized Silicone grease! How could we allow him do that! Riskyyyy!!!! Dave my friend, you got to give him just the way you gave me.... :ltcapd:

 

Cheers!

Brahmam.

 

I do believe in a bit of levity from time to time and knowing you all, you are much the same way too. :-)

 

 

 

I have yet to see any evidence for any sealant being used for ED threads in the old days -- nothing in instructions given out to customers, nothing in manuals given out to salesmen and repairmen. Yet a sealant seems to be a very good idea, nonetheless: not just to prevent leakage, but also to help prevent jammed sections (which, I do believe, is much more a problem in real life than sections so loose that they spontaneously unscrew).

 

Beeswax would be a logical sealant, and I first tried it out many years ago when I had a Waterman ED that needed a little help staying airtight.

 

As for silicone grease, Todd noted early on in this thread that in many cases it is formulated primarily as a sealant, not as a lubricant. The silicone grease I use is thick, viscous, and not slippery at all. On some threaded joints, there would actually be less friction with clean ungreased threads than with greased threads.

 

PS Brahmam, if rosin sealant works for you, you win!

Edited January 28, 2013 by brahmam

[Ron Z]

You're just seeing a difference in opinion between two repair people. Discussions at pen shows between repair people can be entertaining, and it sometimes leaves bystanders heads spinning. But it's fun, and I always come away having learned something.

[watch_art]

Not "dangerous" but perhaps a bit more risky. Not everyone has "calibrated fingers" and may over do it. Not everyone has "calibrated fingers" and may over do it.

 

I take this to mean that the hamfisted my indeed mess something up - but that's with silicone grease or anything else... some folks will just apply TOO much torque. It's just a pen. Doesn't require any real strength.

 

RonZ has just said that Silicone Grease is "risky" if not dangerous.

 

No he didn't.

[Trnsncdr]

PTFE in silicone is most certainly safer for your pen than the ink. Your pen will live longer. No fears. Shaefer even puts in in their own pens. Pure silicone is fine, but PTFE is also fine.

 

https://pensivepens.com.au/products/ultimate-pen-lubricant-with-ptfe-silicone-grease is a good example of successful repackaging but You can easily find suitable silicone grease with PTFE in greater volume for cheaper. Teflon is NOT particulate unless it has dried. It is a misunderstood lubricant. Again, the ink itself is a far greater threat to your nib or feed and interior plastic of your eyedropper pen

 

Edited January 21, 2023 by Trnsncdr
Incomplete

[BrassRatt]

On 1/21/2023 at 11:15 AM, Trnsncdr said:

... Teflon is NOT particulate unless it has dried. It is a misunderstood lubricant. 

I have to question this.  Is the Teflon actually in solution?  In what state is the Teflon, not particulate, in the grease? Is there some other way for a flowable solid not to be particulate? 

 

I have Teflon lubricant that has alcohol base/carrier, and the Teflon is definitely particulate in that application -- it settles out very rapidly.  The particles are microscopic, but unmistakeable.  In a more viscid carrier, they would not thus give away their particulate nature by settling.  

 

So I'd like to learn more about Teflon that has not dried.  Help?

 

[Gomer]

I wonder if anyone has tried Chapstick.  It works fine in airbrushes.  It's a soft wax, non-toxic and smells nice.