Writing On Wood?

November 29, 2012

I'm doing some research prior to ripping a violin apart and turning it into a Hardanger Fiddle (aka Hardingfele) which is a type of fiddle native to Norway. Among other things the fiddle features decorations drawn in black ink on the wood that is then varnished over. (the usual violin varnish is made from shellac or other types of resin, drying oil like linseed or walnut, and alcohol). I'm making something of a modified Hardanger fiddle out of a violin, and I was wondering what sort of ink would be good to use on wood, that could be varnished over without smearing and stay black for a long time (ideally at least a century). Everything I read about the fiddles simply say 'black ink' without specifying what kind of ink! To give you an idea of what kind of decoration I am talking about, attached is a closeup of the rosing of a Hardanger fiddle.

Also here's the wiki link.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hardanger_fiddle

I have two Lamys, although I am thinking that a calligraphy pen would be better? Or perhaps a very fine brush? The wood I will be doing the decorations on is pine (front) and maple (back). I'll be stripping off the current very cheap varnish and replacing it after the decorations are on. I apologize if this isn't the right forum for this question, you folks have been very helpful to me in the past.

Thank you!

November 29, 2012

I don't know but think India ink would be what they were talking about. I don't have any, but understand it is a shinny ink that will last as close to forever as you are going to get.

India ink is a fountain pen killer, so use a dip pen.

I'd do a bit of practicing with various flexes of dip pen nibs. They have them from stiff, regular flex, easy full flex to extreme flexible like the Hunt 99-100-101 and the fabled Gillette 303.

There are different tips for lettering and drawing. I think it will take you at least a month or two to look up, and get a good selection of the nibs you could need.

It would be worth the work, in you want that to be seen for the next 100 years.

You should spend some time practicing to see what nibs will do for what part of your drawings.

November 29, 2012

I'm doing some research prior to ripping a violin apart and turning it into a Hardanger Fiddle (aka Hardingfele) which is a type of fiddle native to Norway. Among other things the fiddle features decorations drawn in black ink on the wood that is then varnished over. (the usual violin varnish is made from shellac or other types of resin, drying oil like linseed or walnut, and alcohol). I'm making something of a modified Hardanger fiddle out of a violin, and I was wondering what sort of ink would be good to use on wood, that could be varnished over without smearing and stay black for a long time (ideally at least a century). Everything I read about the fiddles simply say 'black ink' without specifying what kind of ink! To give you an idea of what kind of decoration I am talking about, attached is a closeup of the rosing of a Hardanger fiddle.

Also here's the wiki link.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hardanger_fiddle

I have two Lamys, although I am thinking that a calligraphy pen would be better? Or perhaps a very fine brush? The wood I will be doing the decorations on is pine (front) and maple (back). I'll be stripping off the current very cheap varnish and replacing it after the decorations are on. I apologize if this isn't the right forum for this question, you folks have been very helpful to me in the past.

Thank you!

You would need to paint it on with a brush, but I would think that ink would not be the correct thing anyway. Some black varnish would be the thing - or inlaid black wood such as that used in the edge purffling. That fiddle you have also seems a bit strange as it appears to only have holes for the sound, and not proper "f" holes.

You should get advice from a real instrument maker or skilled restorer and it's only too easy to ruin an instrument. I'm afraid I would never let anyone do this sort of thing to one of my instruments - even an expert maker or restorer. But possibly this instrument you are going to change has little value or may not have a good sound anyway.

November 29, 2012

I have done design work similar to what you are describing, just not on instruments.....

India Ink and dip pen nibs of various sizes and lots of practice on some scrap wood before going to the real thing...

Also make sure the wood is well sanded and primed with a thin coat of shellac so that the ink does not run in the grain of the wood...

You basically want to do the design over a thin coat of shellac and then when well dried finish with instrument shellac...

November 29, 2012

Even good quality permanent fountain pen ink should do. I think the trick is to make sure it's a pretty thick wet coat the first time around so it gets in to the wood.

Remember all the ink scratchings on the old school desks that never came out and gave the history of it's users since the school began 100 years ago?

Like @OldGiz says, try on some similar scrap wood first.

November 29, 2012

Even good quality permanent fountain pen ink should do. I think the trick is to make sure it's a pretty thick wet coat the first time around so it gets in to the wood.
Remember all the ink scratchings on the old school desks that never came out and gave the history of it's users since the school began 100 years ago?
Like @OldGiz says, try on some similar scrap wood first.

As Oldgriz advised, the wood needs to be primed before any work is done particularly if it's Pine otherwise the ink will likely feather. The desks you mention had several coats of vanish on them.

November 29, 2012

Yes, definatelly seal the wood first, either a good sanding sealer, in a few coats, or the varnish you intend to use over it(best idea, to insure compatibility of the layers). I'll second the recamendation for India Ink since it isn't as translucent as FP ink, its highly pigmented(more solids to the coloring) if you really want to use ink. I'd lay it on with a fine brush, or brush pen.

Another option is to simply use a thinner consistency high pigment content paint, a heavy acrylic or quality enamel and a fine brush. That is the route I would go.(OK, well, I would run it on with my airbrush actually)

The actual durability of you ink/paint won't exactly matter much if you do seal/varnish over it. The varnish over it will(if a good type) block all or most UV and keep it from fadding, and provide abrasion resitance.

Good Luck!

G.