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Wooden Kit-Less Pen


Jared C

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Is it possible to do this?

 

I want to make a completely wooden kitless pen out of some dogwood that I recently had to cut down.

 

Instead of threading the section, ya'll reckon I use shellac or something similar to adhere it to the barrel?

 

I don't mind to make this a bulb filler, or some sort of cartridge type. I'll be using a jowo nib/section insert.

 

This will be the first pen I've made, and I'm playing around with my lathe right now, just trying to get tenons down, and the taper for the section/barrel.

 

For the cap, I plan on leaving a small ring on the barrel that will act as a hard-stop.

 

I bought some acrylic to do the same thing with, but I got lots and lots of free wood, so trying to use it up first.

 

I've seen these two, https://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/index.php?/topic/212134-wooden-wonder/ and Shawn's https://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/index.php?/topic/228193-the-last-wooden-pen-im-going-to-make/ but would prefer to stick to all wood only, just for uniqueness and impracticality.

 

I dunno, call me crazy.

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Hello Crazy.

 

If you make it a cartridge filler and use shellac the section to the barrel, then how are you going to fill it?

 

Dick D

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That's why I'm crazy.

 

I'd have to pull it apart, with heat or alcohol, each time it needed filled. I've kinda threw that idea out the window though.

 

Right now IF I were to adhere the section and barrel, i'm looking at fitting a large sac, and pulling out the nib, and eyedroppering in some ink through there, again, not very practical, but it'd work.

 

However, last night I turned out the barrel and section, and they fit together reasonably well with no adhesive. I'm concerned now though about hot and cold and humidity contracting the parts and making the section fall out.

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Why not thread the end so it could unscrewed? You could soak the wood with thinCA, but you would still need to be somewhat careful when screwing/un-screwing it.

 

 

I have seen wooden pen that are kitless, but I have not made one(disclaimer here).

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Scott (they are prettier then plastic too) B

Check out the lastest and greatest PR swirled blanks!

You will be blown away by the prices!

 

Slabsblanksandboards.com

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Hmmm, never thought about using CA as a strengthener. I Have looked into making a stabilizing system using a wood hardener (probably minwax, because I can get it local) and a vacuum pump. CA glue would require less work, and there's a bottle of it sitting on my desk from my RC car days.

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Depending on the wood type, thin CA will go quite deep into some grains(Eastern Red Cedar pretty good/White Oak not hardly).

 

Most stabilizing systems require quite a long period of drawing a vaccuum, then 'cooking' the blank to get the insides hardened up. I've got a pile of super-spalted pecan pen blanks that are so punky it will need stabilizing, but I just don't have the equipment, or the time to do it. Someday......HarborFreight will get a pile-o-cash and I'll have everything I need.

 

Until then, CA is my best friend!!!!

 

 

 

 

 

Scott (someday.....) B

Check out the lastest and greatest PR swirled blanks!

You will be blown away by the prices!

 

Slabsblanksandboards.com

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  • 2 weeks later...

I too am moving toward kitless fountain pens. I use a mixture of Boiled Linseed Oil and CA to create a hard shiney surface on certain woods. Some wood are dense and hard and do well with Tung oil or French oil or just hard wax.

Keep in touch, I want to see how you do on your kitless. I am saving money for the tap and dies. Are you going to use a triple start???

 

John

If you see a man building an ark, better stop to help.

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