Writing Slope Dilema

[my63]

Hi Scrivelry

first of all welcome to fpn you are welcome to post in our thread or to start your own if you wish.

everyone helps each other so if you want to ask anything please feel free.

 

Skoff I am pleased to say your project looks fantastic the use of the brass and what looks like rosewood genius that will really stand out when you start to add polish.

 

Michael

[my63]

Sorry Shangas I must have been typing as you posted I am about to repair the lock for my nessr project if I can remember the safe place that I put it in. .

any chance of some pictures.

[Shangas]

I'm in the process of measuring and cutting the pieces of cloth for the upper surface, the underside and other parts of the box at the moment. I've done most of the gluing of all the fiddly little bits and pieces. Photographs will come soon.

[my63]

I had hoped that I would have finished my NESSR dog rescue writing slope in time for their fun weekend 13th and 14th July but it was not possible.

I accept full responsibility it is my high standards to blame I don't like to send things out until I am happy.

Any way we had a great weekend lots of fun dogs shows and a fantastic Police dogs display also an equine and canine display team I have added my 300 pictures to flickr my daughter put together a short video here is the link I think it would be allowed

 

http://www.flickr.com/photos/47080473@N07/9285005105/

 

The first dog is a clumber spaniel that belonged to my friend and flickr member Dorset Steve an excellent photographer who passed on earlier this year.

 

Thanks for looking

Michael

[Skoff]

Hi Michael, the event you linked to looked like fun. I'm always amazed by how well trained these dogs can be.

 

I have a french polishing question. What do you advise to do about the brass when applying finish? Should it be masked off (tricky for the wire inlay), or should the finish just go over the top?

 

Thanks

[my63]

Hi Skoff

The dogs are amazing the spaniel has been trained to find drugs, firearms and cash.

 

With regard to your French polishing question please remember I am not an expert but in the past I have always polished over the brass without issue.

I would say be careful when sanding I have found the small particles of brass appear to alter the colour of the veneer around it.

I have been looking at applying French polish with a brush but I have not tried it yet.

Remember the first coats need to be applied with pressure once the coats get into double figures thin the polish a little.

A little boiled linseed oil will help to keep your rubber moving.

 

I am making a new part for the lock on my writing slope at the moment.

Regards

Michael

[my63]

I found the lock from the NESSR charity box and to be honest I wish I had not

http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2823/9300768193_7349e22bd7_z.jpg
IMG_4196 by my0771, on Flickr

 

One of the pins was missing and every part was bent

 

http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3737/9300771087_f0d616739f_z.jpg
IMG_4198 by my0771, on Flickr

 

I started out with a piece of brass with my trusty pink sharpie I roughly marked out the shape.

 

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7307/9303559666_106ed9b25e_z.jpg
IMG_4201 by my0771, on Flickr

 

http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3795/9303562958_82fefa2a0a_z.jpg
IMG_4203 by my0771, on Flickr

 

After 4 hours you get to this

 

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7389/9303571700_c585421c31_z.jpg
IMG_4208 by my0771, on Flickr

 

Now I just need to make a key and then fit it into the box I also need to find the striking plate which was not in the same safe place that the lock was,

 

Thanks for looking

Michael

[scrivelry]

Well, it's a little thing, as I've been staring at this box trying to decide exactly what to do, but I got two "inkwells."

 

I have another of these boxes on the way... (And I have been retraining myself, really) and they all seem to need inkwells. I bought two bottles of Windsor & Newton Drawing ink in the local craft store. They have a little bit of play around the bottles, which I have a plan for, and they are almost too tall - but not quite! So it seems I have inkwells. Cheap. And, er, some gold and silver ink, because they did not have it in black or blue or anything like that. So, considering the rate at which I am likely to use those up, I think I will transfer them to different bottles for storage and use the bottles as inkwells.

 

I also have some hopes for salt shakers, which I will report on as I actually see if the hopes work out.

[Shangas]

I'm in the process of gluing on the top layer of fabric...

 

*Fingerscrossed*

[my63]

Well, it's a little thing, as I've been staring at this box trying to decide exactly what to do, but I got two "inkwells."

 

I have another of these boxes on the way... (And I have been retraining myself, really) and they all seem to need inkwells. I bought two bottles of Windsor & Newton Drawing ink in the local craft store. They have a little bit of play around the bottles, which I have a plan for, and they are almost too tall - but not quite! So it seems I have inkwells. Cheap. And, er, some gold and silver ink, because they did not have it in black or blue or anything like that. So, considering the rate at which I am likely to use those up, I think I will transfer them to different bottles for storage and use the bottles as inkwells.

 

I also have some hopes for salt shakers, which I will report on as I actually see if the hopes work out.

Some pictures would be good if you have the time

 

Michael

[my63]

I'm in the process of gluing on the top layer of fabric...

 

*Fingerscrossed*

Hi Shangas

We are looking forward to seeing your finished project

 

Michael

[scrivelry]

I apologize for not posting pictures earlier - they certainly make things easier to see! I am having trouble getting them to upload to this computer and probably have to haul out my netbook. I thank you all for your patience!

[my63]

I apologize for not posting pictures earlier - they certainly make things easier to see! I am having trouble getting them to upload to this computer and probably have to haul out my netbook. I thank you all for your patience!

There is no need to apologise I hope you can post pictures of your project soon.

 

regards

michael

[Shangas]

I wish I could say the box was nearly done. But unforeseen issues with the glue have seriously set me back. It'll be another week at least...

[my63]

I wish I could say the box was nearly done. But unforeseen issues with the glue have seriously set me back. It'll be another week at least...

Hi Shangas is it fabric glue you are having problems with?

[Shangas]

The glue I selected is completely useless. I have to scrape and sand it all off and start all over again. Recut the fabric, remeasure everything...Bloody nightmare. This won't be done for another month, at least.

[scrivelry]

Shangas, if you don't mind my asking, what sort of glue did you pick, and what sort of useless was it? Not sticking? Lumpiness? Sticking so that it couldn 't be adjusted? Soaked through the material? Dried too fast? Didn't dry fast enough?

 

The fabric is inevitably going to wear faster than the wood and need to be replaced from time to time. I would like to find out what was used in the past. I am wondering if they used hide glue or if they used a flour-water type of glue/paste. My experience with historical stuff seems usually to indicate that doing whatever it is the way "they" did it usually ends up easier in the long run that doing it the new, "better" modern way - not 100 percent of the time, but more often than I would have thought before I started trying things...

 

Michael, what did you use on yours?

[my63]

Hi Scrivelry

I have experienced all of the problems you have mentioned above there are a number of solutions.

Thin material like velvet absorbs glue very easily so I either apply a very thin layer of glue and roll the velvet onto a piece of dowel wait until the glue is almost dry and then roll the velvet into place.

If the glue gets too dry a warm iron will help it stick. I have used a spray on mounting glue with the same method.

My latest successful method is to use the spray mount on light card then roll the velvet into place folding the edges over when it is dry I stick the card into place.

I now use this method with light leathers and suede as the card stops any imperfections in the wood from showing through.

 

I have worked on a few writing slopes now all of which had hide or scotch glue used to hold not only the leather but also the veneer, It is still used and is applied hot.

 

I use waterproof PVA on veneer and leather I think it is a good replacement for hide glue in my opinion.

 

I hope this helps if you have any more questions please ask

 

Regards

Michael

[Shangas]

The glue we picked was drying so fast that we couldn't put the fabric on. I mean REALLY fast. Within a minute, it was almost solid. And once we put the fabric on, all the adhesiveness in the glue had disappeared. We could peel it right off and it wasn't sticking at all. There was no resistance, or anything.

 

So we need to sand off the glue, and use a different type. We're thinking of wallpaper glue instead. It's slower drying and should be just as strong.

[my63]

I had this problem when I made new leaves out of plywood the wood soaked up all of the moisture from the glue I asked on a woodworking forum they said to let the first coat of glue work as a sealer for the plywood.

Then apply more glue on top it worked fine after that.

 

Regards

 

Michael