Writing Slope Dilema

[Skoff]

Project Two

Locks

This is a very simple lock and I hope that by explaining how it works I will be able to make a key for it.

The lock is made from a brass backplate and top with mild steel side and cover.

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8304/7969603720_c2012efb66_z.jpg

IMG_1964 by my0771, on Flickr

 

This box has been closed many times on a lock that was locked causing damage to what I will call the pins.

I have added some text to try and help you to understand

 

These pin form part of the lever on a larger lock the levers are separate. There is a slot in these pins that holds a small piece of sprung steel

 

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8321/7969752814_4e0e9280c7_z.jpg

Lock 1 by my0771, on Flickr

 

The lock has been taken apart and brushed down

 

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8322/7969784732_0657bb4d31_z.jpg

Lock 2 by my0771, on Flickr

 

I have straightened the lever pin section and refitted the spring bar

 

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8436/7969614536_b261ecd372_z.jpg

IMG_1976 by my0771, on Flickr

 

More to follow later if I have lost anyone please let me know

Michael

Hi Michael,

 

You have inspired me to have a go at restoring an old writing slope I found at a car boot sale for the princely sum of £7

 

I have managed to dismantle it, but was wondering how you got the cover off the lock? I have no key, so was going to make another one, but seem to have fallen at the first hurdle...

 

Also, some of the flat springs that are part of the secret drawer mechanism are broken, do you know where I might be able to source such things? I suppose I could have a go at making them, but if they are available on line that would make my life much easier.

 

 

Some pictures of the slope:

http://i1056.photobucket.com/albums/t363/skoff13/smllDSC_1427_zpsbb86c3a9.jpg

http://i1056.photobucket.com/albums/t363/skoff13/smllDSC_1424_zps13a09753.jpg

http://i1056.photobucket.com/albums/t363/skoff13/smllDSC_1423_zpsaf7a061c.jpg

[my63]

Hi Skoff

 

That is my favourite type of box and will be quite a challenge to restore all of the desgins around the outside of the box should be brass

 

http://www.hygra.com/wb/wbbaily.htm

 

This is a similar sort of desgin they are usually rosewood or mahogany I think yours is the mahogany I have tried to buy them in the past £7 wow

 

Ok enough drooling over your box

 

The locks are usually riveted crudley together you will need to prise the edges up where they have beed hammered over try not to snap them off as you will need to hammer them back to put it back together.

Take care when selecting which side to open as only one side will open.

Do you have a key to make one with if not let me know.

Pictures of the lock would be great.

I dont have any spring steel or you could have it you can make it by heating metal and quenching it in oil old clocks and suchlike an old hacksaw blade can also be used you might need to use small pieces of wood behind it as blades dont bend very well.

 

Are you planning on a straight forward restoration or are you adding trays for pens.

 

Please keep the updates comming

 

Michael

[Skoff]

Hi Michael,

 

I'm not sure I am up to replacing all the brass edges, it looks pretty intricate and I have never done anything like it before. I found a very similar slope on ebay, if slightly bigger, which gives an idea of what the edge design might look like when restored it is here - I'm undecided, I don't even know where I'd begin. My original plan was to replace the veneer with something a little less dark and just put brass corners on, but I suppose if I take my time. Still, just because something is difficult doesn't mean you shouldn't try.

 

Anyway you asked about pictures of the lock:

http://i1056.photobucket.com/albums/t363/skoff13/smllDSC_1428_zps69ea4d1e.jpg

http://i1056.photobucket.com/albums/t363/skoff13/smllDSC_1429_zps397588c6.jpg

 

 

Having got the box to pieces, I'm pretty sure it was restored before, and it has also seen some water damage. The outside of the box has been stained a really dark colour which I'm not especially fond of. However removing the varnish has let the grain of the wood start to appear and it's looking much nicer. There is a lot for me to learn, but it is tremendous fun.

[my63]

Yes that box on ebay is very similar to yours I quite possibly bid on that one as I have been after one for some time.

If you could replace the brass you would have a stunning box. If you got fine gauge brass and a decent pair of cutters or a jewlers saw and rest it would be possible cardboard templates are you friend all the shapes appear well defined.

It would also be possible to use a contrasting veneer maybe ebony wenge on the darker side or maple of beech on the ligheter side.

From what I can see the mahogany looks pretty good is it veneer as sometimes they were solid wood.

It will most likley have been french polished if it has been damp the polish will look bad try some 0000 wire wool first.

As for the lock you seem to have it the right way up the two shinny studs you can see hold the top plate in place squeeze it with pliers bend the edges with whatever tools you have.

These locks are very simple and are usually bent when they are forced when the key is lost.

Happy to help any way I can

Michael

[my63]

The NESSR writing slope I am restoring had a few gaps in the lid due to shrinkage so i have filled these

 

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7424/8731761778_281b5edbb6_z.jpg
IMG_3533_1 by my0771, on Flickr

 

the inner edges have all been prepared for the veneer the sides and back will be wenge

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7306/8730643615_dd241228be_z.jpg
IMG_3538 by my0771, on Flickr

 

The top and front will be burr walnut which I have cut into strips of the correct size.

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7301/8730642463_2c74644969_z.jpg
IMG_3536_1 by my0771, on Flickr

 

It is normal for the patterned veneer to be only on the top and front with plain on the sides and rear.

 

I have also made a template for the cartouche and escutchen to be made in brass

 

 

[my63]

This writing slope is comming along well only the top, front and back of the base are still to be veneered

 

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7290/8732984138_60aae30e96_z.jpg
IMG_3547_1 by my0771, on Flickr

 

 

 

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7282/8731870225_3548788356_z.jpg
IMG_3555 by my0771, on Flickr

 

I am still awaiting a decision on the inside

 

Thanks for looking

 

Michael

[Shangas]

We bought this at the local flea-market last year:

 

http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a215/Fruffles/Writing%20Box/IMG_1031_zps1f10da0b.jpg

 

We were going to restore it, but then we bought this in London:

 

http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a215/Fruffles/Writing%20Box/IMG_0525-1.jpg

 

So we never got around to it. But dad and I are gonna have a crack at it. As you can see, we've measured and cut the writing-panels. We just need to sand, fit and glue them in properly and put on the surface-fabric. We also need to fix the lock (it's not installed properly). We also need to cut the panel at the top of the box, and fix that broken piece on the left.

 

http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a215/Fruffles/Writing%20Box/IMG_1032_zps1c04789f.jpg

 

http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a215/Fruffles/Writing%20Box/IMG_1036_zps2db0434f.jpg

 

The good news is that the keys for my pen-chest fit the lock for my writing-box. The bad news is that whoever installed the lock on this box didn't line up the lock and the plate correctly. So the bolts don't hold the lid shut. We need to fix that.

 

http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a215/Fruffles/Writing%20Box/IMG_1033_zpsc2529a28.jpg

 

http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a215/Fruffles/Writing%20Box/IMG_1035_zpsed30e54d.jpg

 

http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a215/Fruffles/Writing%20Box/IMG_1034_zps29b581de.jpg

 

Any ideas on what we can do with THAT would be appreciated.

[my63]

Hi Shangas

Thanks for sharing your next project. Is the box with the blue interior leather bound?

I think you might find that the lock and plate are in their origional position and that the inner part of the lock has been forced and the hooks are in the wrong position. The lock will still work but the hooks have been jumped into the wrong place.

As for the broken interior partition it will be hard to match the wood and colour have you considered trimming it flat and rounding over the edge to match what is there.

Keep the pictures comming please

Michael

[Skoff]

Yes that box on ebay is very similar to yours I quite possibly bid on that one as I have been after one for some time.

If you could replace the brass you would have a stunning box. If you got fine gauge brass and a decent pair of cutters or a jewlers saw and rest it would be possible cardboard templates are you friend all the shapes appear well defined.

It would also be possible to use a contrasting veneer maybe ebony wenge on the darker side or maple of beech on the ligheter side.

From what I can see the mahogany looks pretty good is it veneer as sometimes they were solid wood.

It will most likley have been french polished if it has been damp the polish will look bad try some 0000 wire wool first.

As for the lock you seem to have it the right way up the two shinny studs you can see hold the top plate in place squeeze it with pliers bend the edges with whatever tools you have.

These locks are very simple and are usually bent when they are forced when the key is lost.

Happy to help any way I can

Michael

Success! Thank you again Michael, I followed your advice and managed to get the lock open without any damage... (to the lock that is, I still managed to trap my finger in the pliers - much blood and swearing - ouch!). Thanks for the offer of a key, but I have already ordered a blank for literally pennies, so I will see how I get on with that.

 

I've decided to give it a go with the brass and have ordered a few strips and some tools to cut it with. I am probably going to alter the design a little as I think I'd like to incorporate brass corners on the top of the box (which also solves the difficulty I have had finding brass strips longer than 12", which is just a smidge too short). In terms of the veneer (and yes, I ~think~ the whole of the box is veneered) I shall follow your suggestion and probably copy your latest project with fancy pattern walnut on the top and front, but more plain on the back and sides. As far as possible I will use the veneer I remove as a template (does it need cutting slightly larger?). I have an old steam iron to do the job, but I must say that bit terrifies me (and not only for the potential to injure myself again). it just seems like a lot of moisture to introduce to the wood.

 

Other jobs on the list are to repair some splits in the base, and one in the lid, then I need to source the skiver - does £35 sound about right for this? That seems to be the on line going rate.

Edited May 13, 2013 by Skoff

[my63]

I cant see a split in the lid but it is best tackled once the veneer is removed.

I see what you are saying about the water but it is the steam that you want it passes through the veneer and reactivates the glue for a second or two.

So its iron in one hand and scraper (narrow wallpaper type) in the other heat,steam scrape. I am sorry to say it comes off in small pieces and will take some time.

You might want to do this outside as it stinks.

Once you have removed the veneer you need to sort the glue that has been left behind I use a cheap 12.5mm paint brush and some warm water.

Wet the brush and scrub it on the surface and use the scraper to remove it. You can use heavy duty sand paper but it clogs up.

http://maccmodels.co.uk/materials-metal/brass-sections/brass-sheet/brass-sheet-cz108/0-6mm-brass-sheet-300mm-x-300mm.html

That is the sort of sheet I would have bought 0.6mm is the same thickness as the veneer.

Please try not to hurt your self I have a piece of plywood with a sheet of sandpaper stuck to it it stops boxes from moving around if you cant clamp the box down then put something heavy in it on a flat surface.

I bought a skiver for my first box but to be honest I dont like the gold edging £35 sounds about right.

Skivers are made from goat or lamb skin http://www.leathermerchants.com/nav186z2z/Pigsuede.asp?top=0&mid=186&tid=339&pid=599&nav=nav186z2z

These are the people I buy from now very good service.

Michael

[Skoff]

Removing the veneer sounds like a bit of a task, I think I will save that one for the weekend. Oh and I have a workmate so can clamp the box down - I will be careful...

 

That's a good link to Macc Models - small world - Macclesfield is where I grew up.

 

I found a good place to get the square brass inlay rods/wire HERE, much cheaper than anywhere else I could find, postage is still a bit of a killer (but not quite as bad as one place that wanted £8.95 to deliver a single 250mm 1mm square brass rod!)

 

I'd like to keep the leather just plain on this slope, and will definitely give GH a call (incidentally Google Chrome doesn't like their website, but IE is ok). Do they do small orders like enough for a single slope, or do you have to buy a minimum quantity? I can't work it out from the website.

 

Oh, on the subject of pen trays, I don't think I will convert the main two storage spaces, but I might convert the pen tray to a box with a ridge and a lid - I did this on a slope my wife bought for me a while back and it works quite well, similar to the technique you have used, but on a much smaller scale

 

Thanks again for all the help, really very much appreciated

 

Greg

 

.

[my63]

Leather is generally sold by the hide rather than foot or metre, so if they say a hide is 15 sq ft approx and £2 per sq ft then it will cost £30 I have almost confused myself there. the last goat hide I bought was under £20.

The only leather I have in a size large enough for a writing slope is blue or mint green they are bright you could have that at cost,

Skivers are usually goat or lamb skin because they are thin and tough I have used thicker leather before but it can give problems when you come to close the box.

I normally make a cardboard template before I cut any material cerial boxes are cheap.

 

Michael

[PensMakeMemories]

These boxes are amazing! I have been considering trying to purchase a pen box to sit on my desk, but after seeing this beautiful work I may try my luck at making one. Thank you for posting your endeavors, as it is both impressive and informative.

[Shangas]

Hi Shangas

Thanks for sharing your next project. Is the box with the blue interior leather bound?

I think you might find that the lock and plate are in their origional position and that the inner part of the lock has been forced and the hooks are in the wrong position. The lock will still work but the hooks have been jumped into the wrong place.

As for the broken interior partition it will be hard to match the wood and colour have you considered trimming it flat and rounding over the edge to match what is there.

Keep the pictures comming please

Michael

 

The blue box is a Toulmin & Gale writing box from the early 1860s. Yes, it's leatherbound, inside and outside.

 

I'm well aware of what's wrong with the lock. But it won't work in its current configuration unless I move the lock-plate. I've tested it ad nauseum, and no other solution will work. It was never installed properly to begin with. And the only way to fix that is to shift the lock plate. I'll need to remove it, chisel out a new slot, shove it back in, drill new holes and screw it back down and fill in the rest of the groove with putty.

Edited May 14, 2013 by Shangas

[my63]

These boxes are amazing! I have been considering trying to purchase a pen box to sit on my desk, but after seeing this beautiful work I may try my luck at making one. Thank you for posting your endeavors, as it is both impressive and informative.

You are welcome

Are you going to make one from scratch or are you looking for something to restore?

 

Michael

[Skoff]

Leather is generally sold by the hide rather than foot or metre, so if they say a hide is 15 sq ft approx and £2 per sq ft then it will cost £30 I have almost confused myself there. the last goat hide I bought was under £20.

The only leather I have in a size large enough for a writing slope is blue or mint green they are bright you could have that at cost,

Skivers are usually goat or lamb skin because they are thin and tough I have used thicker leather before but it can give problems when you come to close the box.

I normally make a cardboard template before I cut any material cerial boxes are cheap.

 

Michael

 

Thanks again Michael, I think I will stick to more traditional colours for this one, so I have dropped them an email explaining what I am after. My wife is into her arts and crafts so the excess won't go to waste.

 

My new hinges arrived today so I can start measuring up for any slight alterations.

[PensMakeMemories]

You are welcome

Are you going to make one from scratch or are you looking for something to restore?

 

Michael

I think I am going to try and make one from scratch, as that way I can determine how many pens I want stored and base the dimensions off of that.

[PensMakeMemories]

 

I am pleased to say I have found a smaller version of the first hinge they are gold plated and have a built in stop at 95 degrees.

 

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8249/8582453444_2846665c00_z.jpg

IMG_0205 by my0771, on Flickr

 

Thanks

Michael

Hey Michael, I am in the process of planning out the creation of my first pen box. I plan on making a medium sized box that will fit 5 pens, but I have run into a problem similar to one you ran into when working on alc3261's box; I can't find a hinge that will work with my drawings. That is the last part I need and I think I might be ready to purchase everything and start. The ones you ended up using in alc3261's box look like they would work perfectly, and I was wondering if you would be willing to let me know where you got them.

 

Thanks for your help and these awesome examples,

PensMakeMemories

[my63]

Hi PensMakeMemories

I really like these hinges they are very good quality.

 

http://www.nichelocks.com/Cabinet-Hardware/Box-Hinges

 

For smaller boxes I usually use small brass box hinges most recently I have started to use a piece of lining material to support the hinges.

Are you planning on sharing your drawings I am always interested to see what others are doing.

Michael

 

[PensMakeMemories]

Thank you very much for the link! This will give me a failsafe if I can't find anything closer to home (I live in the upper midwest part of the US, Minnesota and Wisconsin specifically). I would gladly share my drawings, but I will probably start my own thread when I start building; I don't want to hi-jack yours!

 

I am sorry if they are difficult to see, I had to use a pencil in case I messed anything up. Oh, and the dimensions are in imperial units rather than metric; thought I'd give you the heads up since us Americans tend to use these funny units and most others don't.