D I Y Repair On A 149?

[CS388]

Excellent thread. And well done on the repair, too. Very nice.

 

Has inspired me to tackle my own - when/if the time comes.

 

I thought NeeisK's beeswax method description was excellent. .

 

Well done, all concerned. Nice stuff.

 

Enjoy!

[Paul Raposo]

Excellent thread. And well done on the repair, too. Very nice.

Has inspired me to tackle my own - when/if the time comes.

I thought NeeisK's beeswax method description was excellent. .

Well done, all concerned. Nice stuff.

Enjoy!

 

 

Thanks, CS388, I appreciate that

 

It was a lot of fun, and with all the help I got here, I wasn't afraid to try this. I'm still waiting to hear from the UK seller of the wax about shipping to Canada. I've been having fun using the pen, and I don't mind saying I've gotten quite a few comments, even from non collectors. Something about that white star...

[OcalaFlGuy]

Paul, excellent job.

 

On your gunked up threads.

 

I've used a toothpick and sandpapered it's point to be exactly the size to chase the given thread with. The soft wood is harder than the gunk, but softer than the precious resin.

 

That should get most of it out.

 

Then hit the threads with some Dawn dish distergent/water and a toothbrush. Dawn is a pretty strong but non-hazardous detergent. If that doesn't get it all out, I step up to kind of a test tube bush and Dawn as the TTB has much stiffer bristles than the toothbrush.

 

Rinse and wipe dry with a lint free cloth.

 

That's how I do it when someone else gunks up threads for me.

 

Bruce in Ocala, FL

[Paul Raposo]

Paul, excellent job.

On your gunked up threads.

I've used a toothpick and sandpapered it's point to be exactly the size to chase the given thread with. The soft wood is harder than the gunk, but softer than the precious resin.

That should get most of it out.

Then hit the threads with some Dawn dish distergent/water and a toothbrush. Dawn is a pretty strong but non-hazardous detergent. If that doesn't get it all out, I step up to kind of a test tube bush and Dawn as the TTB has much stiffer bristles than the toothbrush.

Rinse and wipe dry with a lint free cloth.

That's how I do it when someone else gunks up threads for me.

Bruce in Ocala, FL

These are fantastic tips, Bruce, thank you very much I'm ashamed to say, but I have not used the pen too much since I got it back together. I'll have to take it out and give it a go with these cleaning techniques.

[tenney]

Just now reading this topic. Lots of great info. Thank you.

 

Paul, you mentioned having to make several tools. I saw one photo of a tool you made to hold-in a C ring in the piston knob. Do you have any notes, drawings, or photos of the other tools that you needed to make?

[leod]

Paul, thanks for taking time on sharing the DIY/photo/instructions! :clap1:

I would imagine this applies to dismantling the 146 model as well.

[Paul Raposo]

Paul, thanks for taking time on sharing the DIY/photo/instructions! :clap1:

I would imagine this applies to dismantling the 146 model as well.

Thank you, leod

 

I got lots of help from everyone here, and I hope this post helps others in the future. As I've been told by Hari, what we see here applies to the 146 as well. As long as the pens are close in age and design, it translates to the 146.

[Paul Raposo]

Just now reading this topic. Lots of great info. Thank you.

Paul, you mentioned having to make several tools. I saw one photo of a tool you made to hold-in a C ring in the piston knob. Do you have any notes, drawings, or photos of the other tools that you needed to make?

Hi tenney. Truthfully, the only tools I made were the plastic ballpoint shell, and I did that by filing it down until it was the right size to fit inside the piston knob. The tool I used to remove the piston itself, and the nib carrier was from an idea created by Florence:

 

The Cheapest Tool To Untwist A Montblanc

 

To knock out the nib/feed I used a knockout block and a wooden dowel.

 

Hope this helps

[tenney]

Thanks. A paper clip? Wow, a great idea.

 

You remove the piston assembly and then insert a wood dowel to knock out the nib/feed? Interesting... For some reason I figured that the nib/feed unscrewed using a similar tool.

[Paul Raposo]

Thanks. A paper clip? Wow, a great idea.

You remove the piston assembly and then insert a wood dowel to knock out the nib/feed? Interesting... For some reason I figured that the nib/feed unscrewed using a similar tool.

Yeah, I was lucky with the paperclip. I'm not sure I would try that today :embarrassed_smile:

 

I actually unscrewed the nib carrier out of the section, and then knocked out the nib/feed. It was only later that I learned from Hari that this could damage the ebonite nib carrier, and the nib/feed should be knocked out from the back as you mentioned.

[koma223]

I just saw this tool on ebay for $35. I've ordered one because my 146's piston seems a little stiff.

[Paul Raposo]

I just saw this tool on ebay for $35. I've ordered one because my 146's piston seems a little stiff.

Looks interesting, koma223. Let us know how it works out.

[talkinghead]

It was only later that I learned from Hari that this could damage the ebonite nib carrier, and the nib/feed should be knocked out from the back as you mentioned.

 

 

Yes it certainly could....I would however, change "should" to "could", in the second half of your statement. I find it a bit more difficult to properly align the nib/feed back into the pen and get the proper depth into the feeder case, if the feeder case is still in the barrel. If you do it this way, then you really need to leave the feeder case alone completely. I definitely would not try and remove the feeder case once sans nib/feed. Similiar concept of not removing a nib and feed from a section, before you remove a section from barrel, in a sac type filler, if you can help it. The nib/feed give significant stability to a section. Similiarly, the nib/feed lend stability to the feeder case when assembled together.

 

Rick

[hari317]

Hi Rick, since I have been mentioned, what I do, I have said in post 30 of this thread. link I do not like to remove the case feeder at all. Nowadays, I remove the case feeder only if there is a leak from there or any another issue that makes the removal essential. otherwise do not disturb that joint. YMMV. MB case feeder is a very delicate and stressed part, MB procedure to discard the old case feeder when ever it is disassembled is the best approach since they have the parts, but not the approach for us due to obvious reasons.

 

Best

Hari

Edited December 16, 2012 by hari317

[Paul Raposo]

Rick

Hari

Excellent advice from you both :clap1: Anyone reading this thread should pay particular attention to what Rick and Hari are pointing out, because frankly, they've worked on many more MB's than I have.

[Zdenek]

How (un)easy was the sealing of the nib unit in the body?

[Paul Raposo]

How (un)easy was the sealing of the nib unit in the body?

Well, setting the nib/feed went pretty easy. I set them in the nib carrier case feeder, (thank you Rick & Hari) using the "4" in "149" stamped on the nib as my guide. Then I applied some silicone grease to the case feeder threads, and using the paperclip tool, turned it into the section.