D I Y Repair On A 149?

[Paul Raposo]

Bravo Paul!

I have read; use only the minimum amount on the seal lip i.e. where it is needed.

Glad you managed to sort out the spindle.

It might be a bit late, but - be aware that if the section threads and the section/feeder case are not sealed properly then apart from a possible ink leak - it may also leak air when filling, drawing ink into the section.

Rowbo

 

Thank you, Rowbo, I appreciate that.

 

I'm a bit confused, what part is the seal lip? This is the first piston fill I've worked on, and I don't know the parts name very well.

 

I put a good amount of silicone, so I think it might be ok. I was going to test it with water first, and see what happens.

[Paul Raposo]

Ok all, I'm all done! I decided to grab the bull by the horns, and I spread a thin layer on what I think is the piston lip. In the first serious of "before" pictures I posted, the spot on the piston that is covered with ink, I assumed that was the lip, and spread a thin layer of silicone grease on there. The movement of the piston is buttery smooth now.

 

Now for assembly. Let's start with the twisted spindle. I used hot water, and twisted the spindle as close to the original position as before. Shown here with the retaining C-ring:

 

http://img805.imageshack.us/img805/8916/dsc02767q.jpg

 

Not too bad. Now, if we look inside the piston knob, we see a triangle, (inside, 9 o'clock position.) This brace locks the triangle on top of the spindle, and when they meet, the spindle turns. There is some play left and right before it engages:

 

http://img692.imageshack.us/img692/8056/dsc02770k.jpg

 

I didn't have a tool that would fit inside the piston knob, and hold the spindle, so I made one using a ballpoint pen shell. Some filing was required, but I felt more comfortable with plastic on resin, than metal. The trick is too make sure the opening of the C-ring is covered by your tool and the spindle head, and the closed end is sticking out:

 

http://img849.imageshack.us/img849/4732/dsc02771d.jpg

 

Here we see the tool inside the knob ready to press the C-ring into it's groove inside the knob, (note, rubber cork was merely to hold the parts for the picture):

 

http://img201.imageshack.us/img201/5597/dsc02772vh.jpg

 

And here we see the spindle back in it's correct place. You can just make out the C-ring inside:

 

http://img41.imageshack.us/img41/8048/dsc02775s.jpg

 

Rowbo is correct--when this C-ring sets into it's groove, it makes a very loud click sound that you won't miss. Here is Rowbo's sketch from another thread giving you a better idea of how it goes together:

 

http://img69.imageshack.us/img69/6212/post7491303877090013313.jpg

 

This is what the spindle looks like inside the piston sleeve:

 

http://img546.imageshack.us/img546/4594/dsc02776t.jpg

 

Here is the mechanism assembled, and retracted:

 

http://img214.imageshack.us/img214/2999/dsc02777i.jpg

 

And extended:

 

http://img543.imageshack.us/img543/5967/dsc02778ok.jpg

 

Here is the nib after I polished, and criss-crossed the tines to tighten the slit:

 

http://img254.imageshack.us/img254/1958/dsc02780g.jpg

 

And lucky number 7 on the back:

 

http://img543.imageshack.us/img543/1486/dsc02783p.jpg

 

Here is the back of the ebonite feed, with the missing fin:

 

http://img205.imageshack.us/img205/1556/dsc02784m.jpg

 

And the top:

 

http://img835.imageshack.us/img835/7953/dsc02785uc.jpg

 

Before setting the nib/feed, I made sure to run a brass shim GENTLY through the channel to make sure it was clean. Use a light touch, to avoid cutting a groove in the channel.

 

Here are the pieces lined up and waiting:

 

http://img576.imageshack.us/img576/659/dsc02786om.jpg

 

And back together in all it's glory:

 

http://img98.imageshack.us/img98/3099/dsc02787j.jpg

 

I knew the pen would not come out perfect, but I wanted it to be as close as possible. Before I sanded and polished the rough scratches on the ink window, I taped off the threads. Well, I didn't tape them off well enough because some Flitz crept in and stained the thread grooves. I foolishly chased the threads with a pick, and made things worse. I tried Brasso, a Cape Cod cloth, and hard rubbing, and I could not get rid of the discolouration. I suppose if anything was going to go wrong, this isn't too bad. But I'm still disappointed in myself. I really wanted to make this pen looks nice, but that discolouration to the threads will always remind me I messed up.

 

Here you can see the clear ink window, and the discolouration to the threads. Sometimes it looks grey, other times it looks blue. If anyone has a tip to get rid of this, please let me know.

 

http://img402.imageshack.us/img402/4263/dsc02789arv.jpg

 

Here's another picture of the piston mechanism, but showing the flange that sits underneath:

 

http://img831.imageshack.us/img831/9383/dsc02790x.jpg

 

And here we have the nib/feed installed in the barrel:

 

http://img802.imageshack.us/img802/9140/dsc02792g.jpg

 

A view of the threaded sleeve:

 

http://img88.imageshack.us/img88/7238/dsc02793f.jpg

 

Here the piston is visible in the ink window:

 

http://img14.imageshack.us/img14/401/dsc02797ll.jpg

 

And the piston knob extended:

 

http://img406.imageshack.us/img406/71/dsc02798uz.jpg

 

And the pen all put together, and capped:

 

http://img685.imageshack.us/img685/6375/dsc02795rd.jpg

 

Ready for business:

 

http://img560.imageshack.us/img560/9441/dsc02796sf.jpg

 

Well, that's my first Montblanc project. So, how did I do? Please be honest.

[Paul Raposo]

Here's a writing sample. I closed up the slit by almost half, but it's still a pretty wet writer:

 

http://img849.imageshack.us/img849/7389/dsc02799gy.jpg

[talkinghead]

Nice documented project Paul.. feels good eh!

 

Nice ingenuity on the ball point tube to fit the C ring back in...I'm tucking that away for myself!

 

Rick

[Paul Raposo]

Nice documented project Paul.. feels good eh!

Nice ingenuity on the ball point tube to fit the C ring back in...I'm tucking that away for myself!

Rick

 

Thank you, Rick. It feels good to tackle a project like this, and actually do well. Your kind words make it doubly so.

 

So I was correct on the placement of the silicone on the piston?

[talkinghead]

 

So I was correct on the placement of the silicone on the piston?

 

 

If it works for you, and I'm sure it does. There are many ways of doing things that all end up in the same place...

 

But since you asked, I typically place a thin film of silicone within a small portion of the barrel, then move the piston seal up and down a few times. Thus spreading the silicone throughout the barrel, along the entire tract the piston seal traverses.

 

Rick

[Paul Raposo]

If it works for you, and I'm sure it does. There are many ways of doing things that all end up in the same place...

But since you asked, I typically place a thin film of silicone within a small portion of the barrel, then move the piston seal up and down a few times. Thus spreading the silicone throughout the barrel, along the entire tract the piston seal traverses.

Rick

 

Whew! I was worried for a second there. I wasn't sure if the silicone covering the entire inside of the barrel was a good, or bad thing

 

One of the things I hated most about watch repair, was the oiling, and the greasing. I never could get it right. Hopefully I'm not running into too many piston fillers.

 

When you have some time to check out the pictures, Rick, I was hoping you could give your opinion on the nib--does it look ok, or is the slit still too wide?

[Chi Town]

Wow Paul, that was very impressive! I have to say that while I kept reading your report, I kept looking at my 25 year old MB 149 sitting on my desk and debating about taking it apart just for the practice or not. Then I decided, NAW, I'll wait to pick one up that NEEDS repair. You did such an impressive job of keeping us all abrest as to what you were doing and when. I am going to save your report for when I need it.

[georges zaslavsky]

excellent enjoy your 149

[hari317]

Paul, I think you have a done a superb job and thanks for documenting the entire sequence of steps. It will be very helpful.

 

I apply a thin layer of lubricant on the outer surface of the white seal's lip. Then, I do a temporary assembly of the piston mech and work the piston a couple of times so that the barrel walls get a thin film of lube, then I remove the filler unit, re-apply a thin layer of lube on the seal and then re-assemble.

 

I also apply a dot of lube on the piston shaft tube's top inner, it has threads at the very top for engaging with the spindle. A small dot amount of lube on the outer walls of the piston tube as it goes through the anti rotation guide in the connector. But there is sufficient clearance at this area so a lube is not very very essential but I have observed that MB applies lube here and you can find the residue when you open the pen.

 

I usually avoid unscrewing the case feeder(the sleeve that holds the nib and feed together). It is a fragile item. I prefer to directly knock the nib and feed out, leaving the case feeder fitted to the pen.

 

After having opened the 149, one can appreciate the amount of thinking and engineering that has gone into the manufacture of the pen. MB was one of the early companies that went for injection molding, you can see it in the quality of their finish.

 

Best

Hari

Edited May 13, 2012 by hari317

[georges zaslavsky]

After having opened the 149, yone can appreciate the amount of thinking and engineering that has gone into the manufacture of the pen. MB was one of the early companies that went for injection molding, you can see it in the quality of their finish.

 

Best

Hari

Especially in older MB from the 60's,70's and early 80's as it is the case here , quality of the finish, smoothness of piston, and with a strong possibility of flexibility of the nib (french market 18c750 tapered shoulders medium broad nib), it makes such old 149s collectable, once you have bought one, you want another one.

[Chrissy]

Hi Paul

 

You did a great job and thank you so much for the step by step sequence together with the detailed pictures. This is something I will be saving to look up again.

 

The ingenuity of that tool made from a ballpoint is inspired!

[fountainbel]

Well done Paul, looks your'e a natural ! !

My sincere congratualations.

Francis

[Paul Raposo]

Wow Paul, that was very impressive! I have to say that while I kept reading your report, I kept looking at my 25 year old MB 149 sitting on my desk and debating about taking it apart just for the practice or not. Then I decided, NAW, I'll wait to pick one up that NEEDS repair. You did such an impressive job of keeping us all abrest as to what you were doing and when. I am going to save your report for when I need it.

 

Thank you very much for your kind words Chi Town

 

I wouldn't have tried this on my other 149 for the same reasons you've mentioned. But seeing how many pros post so much information here, with no benefit to themselves other than helping out other collectors, I decided to try my hand at this pen, since it was in need of servicing. I knew if I got stuck, I could come here for advice, which did happen.

 

Some of the info I posted is common knowledge, (using a shim in the feed channel,) but I was hoping it could be a tutorial for someone who hase never attempted anything like this before--like me :blink:

[Paul Raposo]

excellent enjoy your 149

 

Thank you, Georges

 

Inked up all night, and no leaks. Feeling pretty confident about this one.

[Paul Raposo]

Paul, I think you have a done a superb job and thanks for documenting the entire sequence of steps. It will be very helpful.

 

I apply a thin layer of lubricant on the outer surface of the white seal's lip. Then, I do a temporary assembly of the piston mech and work the piston a couple of times so that the barrel walls get a thin film of lube, then I remove the filler unit, re-apply a thin layer of lube on the seal and then re-assemble.

 

I also apply a dot of lube on the piston shaft tube's top inner, it has threads at the very top for engaging with the spindle. A small dot amount of lube on the outer walls of the piston tube as it goes through the anti rotation guide in the connector. But there is sufficient clearance at this area so a lube is not very very essential but I have observed that MB applies lube here and you can find the residue when you open the pen.

 

I usually avoid unscrewing the case feeder(the sleeve that holds the nib and feed together). It is a fragile item. I prefer to directly knock the nib and feed out, leaving the case feeder fitted to the pen.

 

After having opened the 149, one can appreciate the amount of thinking and engineering that has gone into the manufacture of the pen. MB was one of the early companies that went for injection molding, you can see it in the quality of their finish.

 

Best

Hari

 

Thank you very much for your support, Hari

 

Thank you for the tip about the lube on the piston. I debated going ahead and putting it where I thought is was suppose to go, and I'm glad I guessed right. Your point about lubing two times makes sense, and something I should have remembered from my watch repairing days.

 

I had considered lubing the inside of the piston shaft, but it was dry when I took it apart, and assumed it was meant to be dry. I didn't consider that it might have dried up, or been removed while the pen was being handle by the previous owner. It is dry now, and lubing that is something I'll have to consider when I flush the pen.

 

Your point about the case feeder is well taken. I hadn't considered knocking out the nib/feed from the barrel because one look, and I was concerned I'd crack it. The barrel is pretty thick, but my lack of experience made me ignore the thought immediately.

 

And I'm glad you pointed out the engineering that went into these pens. It's so simple, yet it's a design that has lasted decades.

 

You've already given me a lot of tips here. Do you have any opinions on retuning the black colour to the barrel threads?

[Paul Raposo]

Especially in older MB from the 60's,70's and early 80's as it is the case here , quality of the finish, smoothness of piston, and with a strong possibility of flexibility of the nib (french market 18c750 tapered shoulders medium broad nib), it makes such old 149s collectable, once you have bought one, you want another one.

 

Yeah, it definitely has some flex, which is odd, because my other 18c nib does not. I'm not a fan of flex nibs because I'm not good with them, but I really wanted this 18c nib.

[Paul Raposo]

Hi Paul

You did a great job and thank you so much for the step by step sequence together with the detailed pictures. This is something I will be saving to look up again.

The ingenuity of that tool made from a ballpoint is inspired!

 

Thank you very much, Chrissy

 

My hope was that this could be used by someone working on their own pen. My problem is, I can read something several times, and I occasionally don't understand the instructions completely. Rowbo explaining the replacement of the spindle for example. It wasn't until he posted his drawing, that I fully understood his instructions. So, lots of pictures.

 

As for the ballpoint barrel, that came to me in bed at 2:30AM. Inspiration

[Paul Raposo]

Well done Paul, looks your'e a natural ! !

My sincere congratualations.

Francis

 

Thank you very much, Francis :embarrassed_smile:

 

Praise from a pro makes this worth while.

 

That's why I love coming to FPN, great friends, professionals sharing their ideas, and experience; and help from all over the world.

[Paul Raposo]

 

Thanks to you all for your help and advice, for sharing your ideas, and opinions, and for spurring me on. So many forums, the first answer is always, "Send it to a professional." Yet here, everyone is encouraged to try it themselves. Ron Zorn was the first person to get me believing I could fix my Duofold Junior, and I'm happy to say he's been a great mentor along the way.

 

After so many failures with watch repairing, it's good to know I am somewhat mechanically inclined.

 

I never thought I'd be interested in MB, yet here I am with three. It's a great forum, with great members.

 

Thank you all

Edited May 13, 2012 by Paul Raposo