Don't Just Tell Us About The Pen You're Using, *show* Us!

[akustyk]

A small part of one tine was broken off the nib so I had it ground to a smooth stub (surprising, huh?) and saved a classic nib from ignominy. Much less costly than a retip and hey, who doesn't like a stub?!

 

I thought you need some tipping material to grind to a stub anyway. :hmm1:

 

If that is the case, I have a 1940 Sheaffer in the same state (tipping of one tine is missing) that I wouldn't mind converting into a stub.

 

C.

http://i1297.photobucket.com/albums/ag32/akustyk/CAM00306-1_zps575048cb.jpg

[akustyk]

 

How do you find the ink to flow, relative to, say, Noodler's Black or Montblanc Midnight Blue?

 

 

 

I suggest reading the thread Ecclesiastical Stationasry Supplies - in there they recommend that you use this type of ink in a wet writer.

I put it in my Lamy which is not really a wet writer but it is fine in there. However, you can feel it is dryish on writing.

 

 

 

 

I am going to be flushing my Estie which is a wet writer and also possibly a 52 1/2 and using the ink in those pens. The Estie is to see if I want to keep it or not as I find it a very mundane pen and so it hardly gets used, so if this ink makes it work nicely with the small amount of flex it has then it will be promoted

 

The 52 1/2, well, you know what those are like should be wet enough.

 

The thing with all my iron gall inks, including Pharmacists, are that they give you great hairlines and as I said, they are very well behaved! In fact because of that I am even considering putting iron gall into my Wahl GF as that has a nice fine nib but flexes out great. But that decision has not yet been made.

 

I ordered a bottle of the Ecclesiastical ink as it is a huge bottle, 110ml for under £10 which is a bonus and of course I do use dip pens a lot so it will never go to waste.

 

Edit: Forgot to mention, when you use this ink it is not very dark on the paper but as it dries it goes darker.

Pharmacists ink is like that but also his ink changes colour even as you write and of course he has different colours of iron gall ink which are great fun, well, I think so even though some people would compare it to watching paint dry

 

http://i1297.photobucket.com/albums/ag32/akustyk/CAM00305_zps77d0cd20.jpg

[dcpritch]

A small part of one tine was broken off the nib so I had it ground to a smooth stub (surprising, huh?) and saved a classic nib from ignominy. Much less costly than a retip

 

I thought you need some tipping material to grind to a stub anyway.

 

If that is the case, I have a 1940 Sheaffer in the same state (tipping of one tine is missing) that I wouldn't mind converting into a stub.

 

 

Normally the answer would be yes, and almost every one of my stub nibs retains a large bit of original tipping material (often called iridium). However, due to the fact that one of the tines on this Balance was already broken, I decided to have Danny Fudge grind what was left of this nib into a stub. The only other options would have been a nib re-tip (which John Mottishaw or Greg Minuskin can expertly accomplish) or discarding the original nib and installing a replacement.

 

The tipping on my Sheaffer Balance is now gone, lost to grinding to make a stub. That will affect the longevity of the nib to some degree, though in terms of modern usage it presents little issue (very few of us write with a fountain pen - especially the same pen - all day long, and it is this kind of daily use that makes an appreciable difference in terms of wear). Because I do not use pens all day every day and in fact rotate through a fair number of pens, the issue is essentially moot for my purposes.

 

The tipping material also provides a smooth surface, but the gold that is now the writing edge of this stub nib is in fact very smooth. It would be very difficult to tell the difference between the original iridium tip and this gold stub nib, in terms of smoothness when writing.

[Cyber6]

It would be very difficult to tell the difference between the original iridium tip and this gold stub nib, in terms of smoothness when writing.

 

Thanks DC.. you give me hope...

 

 

Now, I need to find me a gifted grinder...

 

 

 

C.

[zoniguana]

It would be very difficult to tell the difference between the original iridium tip and this gold stub nib, in terms of smoothness when writing.

 

Thanks DC.. you give me hope...

 

 

Now, I need to find me a gifted grinder...

 

 

 

C.

 

 

I grind meat... does that count? :-D

[Cyber6]

 

Thanks DC.. you give me hope...

 

 

Now, I need to find me a gifted grinder...

 

 

 

C.

 

 

I grind meat... does that count? :-D

 

Only if you are **Gifted** ...

[zoniguana]

Thanks DC.. you give me hope...

 

 

Now, I need to find me a gifted grinder...

 

 

 

C.

 

 

I grind meat... does that count? :-D

 

Only if you are **Gifted** ...

 

Well, people do line up for my sausage...

[Cyber6]

 

Now, I need to find me a gifted grinder...

 

 

I grind meat... does that count? :-D

 

Only if you are **Gifted** ...

 

Well, people do line up for my sausage...

 

 

[zoniguana]

Well, people do line up for my sausage...

 

 

 

Hungarian Raisin Sausage is usually a big hit...

[Cyber6]

Well, people do line up for my sausage...

 

Hungarian Raisin Sausage is usually a big hit...

 

:embarrassed_smile: .....My apologies.. my mind was somewhere else....

[akustyk]

It would be very difficult to tell the difference between the original iridium tip and this gold stub nib, in terms of smoothness when writing.

 

Thanks DC.. you give me hope...

 

 

Now, I need to find me a gifted grinder...

 

 

 

C.

 

It's incredible how much specialized knowledge and skill goes into making a stub. I didn't realize that retipping was such a narrow specialization. This reminds me very much of the world of analog cameras, with just a couple of people doing amazing work on an old Rolleiflex and one guy in Germany working on my camera of choice, a 6x6 East German Pentacon Six

 

One thing is true, this thread has been a source of inspiration and knowledge, like no other on FPN.

[quinden]

You are all too fast for me

 

[hellomms]

http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f175/hellomms/Pen%20and%20Ink/7fcc2b40-9a99-4ac4-862e-a98be58f92a7.jpg

[Stompie]

http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/jj229/Popsjill/pens/DSCN1261_zps32f358e1.jpg

[akustyk]

http://i1297.photobucket.com/albums/ag32/akustyk/CAM00309_zps8f687b23.jpg

[dcpritch]

The natural lighting isn't so good today due to a snowstorm raging outside. Several inches already and a few more expected.

 

 

I've had a few WASP (W. A. Sheaffer Pen Company) pens - they are known for their unusual and lovely materials - and this early version in Brown Pearl is no exception. I can't really capture the irridescence but I hope you get the idea. Richard Binder has a great write-up on these pens.

 

[Uncle Red]

[zoniguana]

[mejdrich]

Thanks all for the kind comments.

 

Today...

 

(146 sized roller snuck into the top margin)

Edited March 5, 2013 by mejdrich

[peterpen53]

@Quinden:

I seriously envy your handwriting, especially its regularity. It's the one thing i can't get my head (and my hand) around. What you do with a fine I can barely get done with a stub or italic.

BTW, what is the nib on your M1000? It looks fantastic.

 

@David:

Sorry to hear about the snowstorm. Over here, spring has apparently decided to start early this year. (bright sunshine all day, 16º C/61 F).

Really like that Ripple!