Jump to content

Nib / Feed Removal For Newbie


PageRyder

Recommended Posts

Can some of my fine FPN colleagues please explain:

 

1. What is a "knock-out block" and how is it used to remove a stubborn nib/feed assembly? (pics welcome!)

 

2. Do heating and soaking factor in? Or a combination of all three? (and in what order?)

 

3. Are all nib/feed assemblies "friction" or "slip fit," or are there other types, and how do you tell what you're dealing with?

"If you have a garden and a library, you have everything you need." Cicero

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 12
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

  • Ron Z

    2

  • PageRyder

    2

  • rogerzilla

    2

  • radellaf

    1

Here is a link to a video about some pen tools made by Tyler Dahl (777). At about 2:35 into the video he shows one type of knock out block and how to use it. https://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/index.php?/topic/197337-wanna-see-some-pen-repair-tools/page__p__2001698__hl__%2Busing+%2Bknock-out+%2Bblocks__fromsearch__1#entry2001698 Check the Repair Q&A for more discussion about using a knock-out block. Hope this helps.

 

-David.

No matter how much you push the envelope, it will still be stationery. -Anon.

A backward poet writes inverse. -Anon.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Can some of my fine FPN colleagues please explain:

 

1. What is a "knock-out block" and how is it used to remove a stubborn nib/feed assembly? (pics welcome!)

 

2. Do heating and soaking factor in? Or a combination of all three? (and in what order?)

 

3. Are all nib/feed assemblies "friction" or "slip fit," or are there other types, and how do you tell what you're dealing with?

At the risk of repeating myself, you want to try to resolve the issues with your pen before you knock out the feed/nib.

 

1: A block with a series of holes in it that allow you to rest the edge of the section on with the nib/feed extending below. You can then knock out the feed from the back.

 

2: Yes. Soaking and ultrasonic cleaning usually frees up any gunk and solves the problem. Heat can help in both removal and reinsertion.

 

3: Some are screwed in place but most are friction fit with the nib acting as a wedge. You will often see that the section has molded itself to the shape of the nib/feed.

 

Farmboy

San Francisco International Pen Show - The next “Funnest Pen Show” is on schedule for August 23-24-25, 2024.  Watch the show website for registration details. 
 

My PM box is usually full. Just email me: my last name at the google mail address.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You can get away without a knockout block if you have a socket set. You should be able to find a socket that has a hole bigger than the nib and feed but smaller than the gripping section. However, you have to think of where the nib is going to end up if it suddenly comes free - hold the socket in your hand while striking the drift, rather than resting it on a table!

 

Always clean everything in water/ammonia first and also heat it up with a hairdrier or similar. This removes most of the dried ink that otherwise acts as a glue and reduces the risk of anything cracking. Some nibs and feeds have to be pulled out from the front, which greatly increases the risk of breakage, and you must use heat here.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

And one other big thing to remember.... in MOST circumstances you DO NOT have to knock out the nib and feed of a pen unless there is a serious problem with the nib or feed....

Generally just cleaning with an ammonia solution or technical pen cleaner will clear out any dried ink in the nib and feed...

Professional restorers DO NOT knock out a nib and feed unless absolutely necessary....

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi, As others have said, unless you are replacing the feed, and with some pens, the nib, it's really much better/safer to leave the feed in the section. You can do a thorough cleaning of the feed channels and nib using ammonia and water, and the feed and nib would have to be in a terrible state to really have to take it all apart.

With the knock out block, you need to be certain that the feed does slide straight down, and not threaded, as many are.

If it is threaded then the knock out block is not required. Many modern pens have the feed made of a material such as polythene,

so using any tools will almost certainly cause damage.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Instructions on how to make your own knockout block can be found in my Cheap Tools articles.

 

Don't try knocking out the feed on a modern pen (even if it's a lever fill or button fill) - you might smash the end of the feed.

spacer.png
Visit Main Street Pens
A full service pen shop providing professional, thoughtful vintage pen repair...

Please use email, not a PM for repair and pen purchase inquiries.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Friends,

 

Thank you for the help. Sorry it took me so long to get back to you all -- I wish I didn't have to work and could just do cool pen stuff all day. I learn so much at FPN, and everyone is very generous.

 

What happened was, I had two old Schaeffer school pens and an eighties-vintage No Nonsense that had languished in a drawer for many years before I got interested in collecting fountain pens. They were all pretty gunked up. I thought I would try to learn about nib/feed assembly and cleaning by practicing on these old, not-so-valuable pens. I managed to get the two school pens apart and all cleaned up, and back together in good working order. The No Nonsense feed proved to be pretty stubborn, but I got it out and cleaned. When I put it back together it was a little crooked, so I tried to take it apart again to adjust the nib and this time I broke the thin tube off the back of the feed (stupid!). After hearing what you folks had to say, I don't plan on attempting this sort of thing anymore. I practice good pen hygiene with all my newer pens (regular flushing, etc.), so I doubt this procedure would ever be necessary. If I ever manage to acquire something decent or vintage, I'm sure it would be well worth sending it to an accomplished restorer.

 

That being said, I would like to fix my No Nonsense pen as it is kind of collectible, and fun (and red!), and not actually a bad writer (of course I would have to break the one I cared about). So I will now skulk over with my tail between my legs and see if there is a parts forum where somebody can fix me up with a No Nonsense feed.

 

Thanks again, people!

"If you have a garden and a library, you have everything you need." Cicero

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Is the feed on that any different that what's in the sheaffer calligraphy sets still being sold?

 

I'd love to get a Pelikan nib off its feed to tighten up the tines, but I haven't heard of a way to do that for an amateur.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The calligraphy nibs have a shiny-looking feed - I don't think it's rubber.

 

Sheaffer did make the No Nonsense pens (with calligraphy nib too) with hard rubber feeds for quite a while. Depends on when the pen was made.

spacer.png
Visit Main Street Pens
A full service pen shop providing professional, thoughtful vintage pen repair...

Please use email, not a PM for repair and pen purchase inquiries.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 5 years later...

Thanks for this information, I recently purchased a used Pelikan Pura and wanted to swap nibs. I think I will try just soaking the nib to flush out the previous ink and installing a cartridge to write with since it didnt come with a converter.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now







×
×
  • Create New...