Mabie Todd Swan

[Guest Gracie]

Thanks all, and a nod to Malcy's beautiful photo. I should really try to do something more orderly and on white paper like that. Anyway, here's a shot of the Swan on the cap, as I'm wondering what the variety of swan images means, if anything. This nib is a #3, and has a little flex. I'm also wondering if the reason that my Waterman 52 doesn't seem to have the legendary flex is just because I'm hesitant to put the required pressure on it, and that could be the case here as well. Is there some sensible way to figure out the maximum pressure to put on a nib that is considered to be a flex nib? I've seen demonstrations on youtube that would terrify me. Also I'm wondering if MB Swan's come in a variety of nib widths? I usually use a fine or extra fine, which is one reason why I like the Japanese pens.

[Malcy]

It's very difficult to tell someone how much pressure to apply because there's no easy way of measuring it. If you push down on it a little and the tines don't spread, it's a nail. If the tines spread a lot with little pressure, it's very flexy. However a flexy nib shouldn't need much force, so be careful.

 

These are other factors that can affect flex. I have a Swan Visofil MK1 and I repaired it myself but was unhappy with the nib, a fine line and no flex. I found that the nib was misaligned with the tines being forced together though it looked ok. As soon as I adjusted it to relieve the pressure between the tines, the nib became wonderfully flexible. A sign that this is happening is a clicking sound from the nib as you write. Generally Swan nibs marked Eternal are stiff.

Is this the same logo:

 

[red52ripple]

Anyway, here's a shot of the Swan on the cap, as I'm wondering what the variety of swan images means, if anything.

 

Is there some sensible way to figure out the maximum pressure to put on a nib that is considered to be a flex nib?

 

That swan on the top of the clip remains the same throughout the production of that third (and fourth-ish) series of Swans. The more interesting swans are the ones in the barrel imprint, which change constantly in appearance, and once, at least, in position. Andreas Lambrou, in Fountain Pens of The United States of America and United Kingdom replicated these swan images which he believes can be used for dating the pens.

 

I would carefully avoid looking for the maximum pressure a nib can take. I see a lot of cracked or sprung nibs where people have pushed that little bit too far. Just utilise the line variation that comes naturally and easily.

 

Regards,

[Guest Gracie]

It's very difficult to tell someone how much pressure to apply because there's no easy way of measuring it. If you push down on it a little and the tines don't spread, it's a nail. If the tines spread a lot with little pressure, it's very flexy. However a flexy nib shouldn't need much force, so be careful.

 

These are other factors that can affect flex. I have a Swan Visofil MK1 and I repaired it myself but was unhappy with the nib, a fine line and no flex. I found that the nib was misaligned with the tines being forced together though it looked ok. As soon as I adjusted it to relieve the pressure between the tines, the nib became wonderfully flexible. A sign that this is happening is a clicking sound from the nib as you write. Generally Swan nibs marked Eternal are stiff.

Is this the same logo:

 

 

 

I envy you the ability to fix a pen! However, your comment explains why my Waterman 52 makes a clicking sound. What should I do about that? I really like the pen for Spenserian writing. How do I know if this is a Swan Eternal? It doesn't appear to say that anywhere.

 

Here's another shot of the Swan logo, but I have to use an old macro lens from my film camera on my digital one, so it's tricky, and the logo is quite warn. Your photo is good, though, and I think a different version. This is quite dark. I'll try to figure out a better method.

 

 

[Beechwood]

My favourite swan has that cap logo missing, would love to find one.

 

The test I do at pen shows and such when I am looking to see the flex in a nib is to try it against my left thumb nail, its nice and easy to see if there is any flex and the pressure is easy to regulate.

 

But having said all that, flex isnt everything if your handwriting doesnt make best use of a nibs fexibility, mine doesnt and I write too fast anyway, yours is just fine as it is Gracie. If you want a flexible nib then there are plenty of cheap pens out there that will work flex like a gymnast doing the splits.

[Guest Gracie]

My favourite swan has that cap logo missing, would love to find one.

 

The test I do at pen shows and such when I am looking to see the flex in a nib is to try it against my left thumb nail, its nice and easy to see if there is any flex and the pressure is easy to regulate.

 

But having said all that, flex isnt everything if your handwriting doesnt make best use of a nibs fexibility, mine doesnt and I write too fast anyway, yours is just fine as it is Gracie. If you want a flexible nib then there are plenty of cheap pens out there that will work flex like a gymnast doing the splits.

 

Thanks for the tip about the thumb nail, I hadn't thought of that. My Amaranth ink is turning purple again in the MT Swan, so I'm putting Florida Blue in it to try to get all that old ink out.

 

Can you recommend any cheap pens that are "wet noodle" types?

 

I'm also worried now about the "clicking" in the Waterman 52, and I'm wondering if you have any suggestions for adjusting the tines myself? Do I need to send it away for repair?

[Malcy]

Like most things about pen repair and adjustment, it's easy to mess it up through lack of experience. Not a problem if you are fiddling with an ultra cheap pen as a learning exercise but you don't want to learn nib adjustment on pens that are of value to you.

 

There are many good nib tuners in North America. I would send the pen to them specifying how you want the pen to write.

[Soundsider]

Dear Gracie,

 

You indeed have a treasured possession! I have a postwar Mabie Todd 3260 full flex that starts at a medium line and easily flexes to a 2-3 mm line with no "railroading!" Gold is a wonderful material for its ductility (ability to deform and spring back to shape with almost no memory), and for it's ability to do so over and over without developing metal fatigue that often manifests as cracking around the breather hole. Like Deborah (red52ripple), I hesitate to suggest that you push your nib "too far," but my instinct is that you can go much farther than shown in your handsome writing sample. I base this on your sample written with the metal Falcon. I push my own unmodified Falcon SF nibs much farther than this, and have never overflexed a nib.

 

Having said this, I do offer a suggestion. For a mere $14 you can own a standard Noodler's flex pen with a steel nib. Buy one and play, with the knowledge that gold is far more ductile (bendable) without permanent deformation than the untempered steel of a semi-flex Noodler's. You'll not have the finesse of your Swan (which flexes more easily), but you will build confidence in how far a a flex nib can be "pushed" without becoming permanently sprung. Nathan Tardiff has done the pen community a great service developing these pens that can be used to learn (and also for daily writing) with little risk of ruining an expensive pen.

 

After playing some with the Noodler's nib, go back to your Falcon and push it some. It is gold also, and will write and flex much smoother and easier than the Noodler's. As you build confidence in your down-stroke, finally move up to your Swan. I have followed this progression, and the confidence has helped me build into flexing my own Swan and Pelikan full flex pens. You will soon produce a beautiful, fluid line that will complement your lovely hand.

 

Kudos to your son, for his caring enough about his Mom to indulge her passion!

 

Best regards,

Soundsider

[Guest Gracie]

Like most things about pen repair and adjustment, it's easy to mess it up through lack of experience. Not a problem if you are fiddling with an ultra cheap pen as a learning exercise but you don't want to learn nib adjustment on pens that are of value to you.

 

There are many good nib tuners in North America. I would send the pen to them specifying how you want the pen to write.

 

Hi Malcy,

 

Thanks for the reply. Do you know of a good nib tuner in Canada? It can be a problem and very slow to send things across the border, plus Richard Binder is so popular that it can be a year turnaround from here. I have had wonderful work from John Mottishaw, but it was with pens that I was purchasing from him, and I don't know what his turnaround time is for other work.