Dilution - Diamine Bilberry

[Sandy1]

Hi,

 

Dilution is most appropriate for those who like an ink's colour, but find the density is too high - especially when used with wet pens and/or absorbent papers.

 

Dilution may also be proposed as a low-cost immediate 'fix' for inks that are too wet for a given pen/paper, and to reduce Smear/Dry Times.

 

In the case of this ink, there were also reports that the ink was still smearing / smudging days after writing, when it should have been well and truly 'cured'.

 

So let's crack on . . .

 

-|-

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http://i783.photobucket.com/albums/yy116/Sandy1-1/FPN_2012/b4a04182.jpg

 

WRITTEN SAMPLES - Moby Dick

Ruling: 8mm.

 

Figure 1.

Paper: HPJ1124.

Ink @ 100, 80, 60, 40%.

http://i783.photobucket.com/albums/yy116/Sandy1-1/FPN_2012/Dilution%20-%20Diamine%20Bilberry/1976512e.jpg

 

 

Figure 2.

Paper: Rhodia, Blank.

Ink @ 100, 80, 60, 40%.

http://i783.photobucket.com/albums/yy116/Sandy1-1/FPN_2012/Dilution%20-%20Diamine%20Bilberry/d6156f12.jpg

 

Figure 3.

Paper: Staples 20 lb.

Ink @ 100, 80, 60, 40%.

http://i783.photobucket.com/albums/yy116/Sandy1-1/FPN_2012/Dilution%20-%20Diamine%20Bilberry/6aeba7d1.jpg

 

 

Figure 4.

Paper: Clairefontaine Triomphe.^*

Ink @ 100, 80, 60, 40%.

http://i783.photobucket.com/albums/yy116/Sandy1-1/FPN_2012/Dilution%20-%20Diamine%20Bilberry/fb9905ac.jpg

 

Dip Pen ^†

 

Figure 5.

Paper: Rhodia, Blank.

Ink @ 100, 40%.

http://i783.photobucket.com/albums/yy116/Sandy1-1/FPN_2012/Dilution%20-%20Diamine%20Bilberry/e849e309.jpg

 

SMEAR / DRY TIMES:

 

Figure 6.

Paper: HPJ1124.

Ink @ 100, 80, 60, 40%.

http://i783.photobucket.com/albums/yy116/Sandy1-1/FPN_2012/Dilution%20-%20Diamine%20Bilberry/87553d27.jpg

 

Figure 7.

Paper: Rhodia - Blank.

Ink @ 100, 80, 60, 40%.

http://i783.photobucket.com/albums/yy116/Sandy1-1/FPN_2012/Dilution%20-%20Diamine%20Bilberry/edba4a5d.jpg

 

Figure 8.

Paper: Rhodia, Lined. ^*

Ink @ 100, 80, 60, 40%.

http://i783.photobucket.com/albums/yy116/Sandy1-1/FPN_2012/Dilution%20-%20Diamine%20Bilberry/cfa1776c.jpg

 

Figure 9.

Paper: Staples 20 lb.

Ink @ 100, 80%.

http://i783.photobucket.com/albums/yy116/Sandy1-1/FPN_2012/Dilution%20-%20Diamine%20Bilberry/d337020a.jpg

 

Figure 10.

Paper: Clairefontaine Triomphe.

Ink @ 100, 80, 60, 40%.

http://i783.photobucket.com/albums/yy116/Sandy1-1/FPN_2012/Dilution%20-%20Diamine%20Bilberry/b977626b.jpg

 

 

Dip Pen

 

Figure 11.

Paper: Rhodia - Blank.

http://i783.photobucket.com/albums/yy116/Sandy1-1/FPN_2012/Dilution%20-%20Diamine%20Bilberry/242108c0.jpg

 

BLEED- SHOW-THROUGH:

 

Figure 12.

Paper: Staples 20 lb.

http://i783.photobucket.com/albums/yy116/Sandy1-1/FPN_2012/Dilution%20-%20Diamine%20Bilberry/7f79d79d.jpg

 

 

PERSONAL OBSERVATIONS

 

The writing experience remained acceptable at all dilutions on papers used.

 

Lubricity diminished as dilution increased, so extreme combos of hair-width nibs on textured-beyond-toothy papers may not be all that inviting.

 

As dilution increased, a bit of so-called shading was revealed on the coated papers. The visual effect was to add some lustre, which was welcome to enliven the monotone line, but not at all near the attractive native shading of some other inks. (So sorry.)

 

While there was some minor variation in S/DT when DBil was diluted, my reading of the runes does not suggest a predictable or significant drop. Rather, changing to a drier pen and/or a more absorbent paper is a more predictable and reliable solution to awkwardly long S/DT. (In the Review, I suggested trying a 28 lb. bond rather than using Rhodia; that suggestion stands.)

 

Dilution did not have significant effect on the opacity of the ink: the feint lines on the lined Rhodia were over-written at 40%.

 

On the samples prepared with an FP, when using a tissue-wrapped finger at white knuckle pressure, it was not possible to generate a smudge one minute after writing. Samples from the dip pen on CT and un/lined Rhodia could not be smudged after two minutes. Also, when underlying pencil marks were erased, the ink did not smudge.

 

Unfortunately, dilution did not improve the extent of bleed- show-through on Staples. Then again, did dilution did not cause bleed- show-through on the other papers.

 

Wet Tests were considered a WOMBAT, so were not done.

 

If there is a strong desire for Hi-Res scans of a specific aspect of these samples, please send a PM. As ever, scans are far more likely to be generated than additional inky work.

 

Bye,

S1

 

______

 

Notes:

 

 

RE: S/DT.

• Being right-handed, I usually do not have a problem with S/DT. Indeed, I was taken aback by the rather long S/DT of some inks I have used for years, without even noticing such a 'problem'. (Same with water resistance.) I am blonde, but no poking the fun, OK?
• There is no 'standard' for an acceptable S/DT. And any arbitrary number would be rather meaningless due to variables of pen, paper, atmospheric conditions, ad infinitum. All I can say is that I make an effort to be consistent, so results are relative; hence may show trends and relationships.
• I have chosen to draw the numeral '4' rather than down strokes. I like to think that the varying amount of ink put down in each direction of travel, ↓ ↙ →, and two 'ink pools' that seem to occur at the end of my lines, are more representative of practical use. The '4' was written every five seconds from right to left - a countdown mode if you will - then a clean finger was run over the row with sufficient force to emulate making a soft fold, not a [origami] crease.

* This paper was used to indicate significant change between varieties of well known widely used FP friendly paper, and was not used in the Review.

 

† A dip pen nib was used to emulate a very wet FP.

 

= = = =

 

NUTS & BOLTS

 

Pens

Samples:

• FP - Rosetta Magellan + Schmidt g-p steel B nib.
• DP - The nib was one of a sort preferred by those who choose to sample FP inks with a DP: a Brause (Iserloha) 0.5mm round-point Ornament 500 nib fitted with over-under reservoirs, which I have found
  equivalent
  superior in practice to the Leonardt 400 series nibs.

Lines & Labels:

• Visconti Green & Noodler's Lexington from a Pilot Penmanship.
• R&K Solferino from a Sheaffer Prelude with a Stub hand-ground from a two-tone Fine nib. (Thanks to Sam at Pendemonium!)

______

 

Papers

• HPJ1124 24 lb. Laser Copy.
• Rhodia Blank.
• Rhodia Lined - S/DT only.
• Staples 20 lb.
• Clairefontaine Triomphe.

______

 

Images

• Scans were made on an Epson V600 scanner; factory defaults were accepted.
• Full written samples were scanned at 200 dpi & 24 bit colour.
• If HiRes Images are added, they should be scanned at 300 dpi & 24 bit colour.
• Scans were not adjusted post-capture, so went straight to photobouquet.

______

 

Densitometer Readings

______

 

Fine Print

The accuracy and relevance of this Topic depends in great part upon consistency and reliability of matériel used.

Ink does not require labelling/notice to indicate (changes in) formulation, non-hazardous ingredients, batch ID, date of manufacture, etc.

As always, YMMV, not only from materials, methods, environment, etc., but also due to differences between the stuff I used, and that you may have.

Also, I entrust readers to separate opinion from fact; to evaluate inferences and conclusions as to their merit; and to be amused by whatever tickles your fancy.

 

-30-

Tags: Fountain Pen Ink Comparison Review Dilution Diamine Bilberry Sandy1

[Sandy1]

LINKS:

 

Ink Review

http://www.fountainp...amine-bilberry/

Inky Thoughts Topic

http://www.fountainp...ost__p__2219813

Post № 1 & 7.

Edited January 28, 2012 by Sandy1

[The Good Captain]

Yet another great piece of work, Sandy! Have you done a similar one for Diamine Majestic? I've searched but can't find one. Maybe the old memory is failing!

I know that when I tried a simple dilution of 1:1 Majestic and distilled water the smearing stopped, the drying time was incredibly short and it bled on Moleskine paper. Also, the slight red tinge reported by some, disappeared but no surprise there.

[mrapollo]

Another gem in the online pro journal: S1AFPIE (Sandy1's Annals of Fountain Pen Ink Engineering). I now make my ink choices almost entirely based on your research.

 

Are you an engineering researcher in real life?

 

-- cheers, MrA

[Sandy1]

Yet another great piece of work, Sandy! Have you done a similar one for Diamine Majestic? I've searched but can't find one. Maybe the old memory is failing!

I know that when I tried a simple dilution of 1:1 Majestic and distilled water the smearing stopped, the drying time was incredibly short and it bled on Moleskine paper. Also, the slight red tinge reported by some, disappeared but no surprise there.

Hi,

 

Thanks for the compliment!

 

I haven't tried diluting Majestic Blue - it seems fine as it comes. https://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/index.php?/topic/207960-diamine-majestic-blue/

 

Bye,

S1

[Sandy1]

Another gem in the online pro journal: S1AFPIE (Sandy1's Annals of Fountain Pen Ink Engineering). I now make my ink choices almost entirely based on your research.

 

Are you an engineering researcher in real life?

 

-- cheers, MrA

Hi,

 

Thanks for the compliment!

 

I am sincerely flattered that you hold my efforts in such high regard.

 

Bye,

S1

[The Good Captain]

Yet another great piece of work, Sandy! Have you done a similar one for Diamine Majestic? I've searched but can't find one. Maybe the old memory is failing!

I know that when I tried a simple dilution of 1:1 Majestic and distilled water the smearing stopped, the drying time was incredibly short and it bled on Moleskine paper. Also, the slight red tinge reported by some, disappeared but no surprise there.

Hi,

 

Thanks for the compliment!

 

I haven't tried diluting Majestic Blue - it seems fine as it comes. http://www.fountainp...-majestic-blue/

 

Bye,

S1

You see, I've had a shed-load of trouble with it not drying, ie still smearing, even when in a notebook. Moleskine, Clairefontaine, no difference. Lovely-doloured ink though it is, those are my only issues with it.

I could always use it to write to others and let them have the problems!!!

 

 

[PaperDarts]

That is so interesting - like having 4 inks in one bottle! Thanks for sharing your experiment.

[John Cullen]

Thanks again for another wonderful post. It is so nice of you to spend the time to post this and your other reviews for the rest of us. We do appreciate it and enjoy reading/viewing. Regards, J

[Sandy1]

That is so interesting - like having 4 inks in one bottle! Thanks for sharing your experiment.

Hi,

 

You're welcome!

 

I think that dilution is an under-used means to 'tune' an ink to match a given pen+paper combo, especially for dark inks that may lose their lustre & nuance of colour at very high densities. And inks that may appear to bog-down when using the wider nibs can be made a bit more nimble through dilution. Also to adjust the contrast if switching between papers with different base-tints, especially those that use optical brightening agents and those that do not use OBAs. e.g. HPJ1124 to Rhodia. (Compare Bilberry @ 60% on HPJ1124 to 80% on Rhodia.)

 

While dilution can be used to good effect with most inks, I find it is the most appropriate for inks like Bilberry that have a high dye-load and little to no shading potential.

 

You may also find this wee Topic to be of interest: LINK

 

Bye,

S1

[Sandy1]

Thanks again for another wonderful post. It is so nice of you to spend the time to post this and your other reviews for the rest of us. We do appreciate it and enjoy reading/viewing. Regards, J

Hi,

 

You're welcome! And many thanks for your compliments!!

 

Bye,

S1

Edited January 30, 2012 by Sandy1

[PaperDarts]

That is so interesting - like having 4 inks in one bottle! Thanks for sharing your experiment.

Hi,

 

You're welcome!

 

I think that dilution is an under-used means to 'tune' an ink to match a given pen+paper combo, especially for dark inks that may lose their lustre & nuance of colour at very high densities. And inks that may appear to bog-down when using the wider nibs can be made a bit more nimble through dilution. Also to adjust the contrast if switching between papers with different base-tints, especially those that use optical brightening agents and those that do not use OBAs. e.g. HPJ1124 to Rhodia. (Compare Bilberry @ 60% on HPJ1124 to 80% on Rhodia.)

 

While dilution can be used to good effect with most inks, I find it is the most appropriate for inks like Bilberry that have a high dye-load and little to no shading potential.

 

You may also find this wee Topic to be of interest: LINK

 

Bye,

S1

 

Thanks for that link - you are truly the Queen of Ink and Paper!! The link also reminded me of how much I like PR American Blue. I bought a bottle as a gift for a friend and I think it's time to get one for myself.

[esterbex]

That is so interesting - like having 4 inks in one bottle! Thanks for sharing your experiment.

 

 

+1. Glad to have it in the house! :clap1: