Vintage Montblanc 146 Repair

[fountainbel]

Hi all!

Just finished the repair of a vintage MB146 ink with a long window

The ink window was deeply cracked with a piece broken out.

In my experience chemical welding is not possible in this case.

The ink window was also strongly ambered and almost black with no transparency left

I've explained to the owner that the best solution is to make a new ink window which goes deep in the barrel

Doing so the piston cork travels fully in the new piece.

The only disavantage is that I can't make the long lines inside of a window.

After agreement I made a celluloid bushing as you can see in the picture.

The external 4 leads thread and the internal are done with 55 ° cutting knife on my lathe

The barrel bore was enlarged to recieve the bushing.

The customer is very happy, so I am also !!!

Regards Francis

http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h89/fountainbel/Repaired%20Vintage%20fountain%20pens/VintageMB146013.jpg

http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h89/fountainbel/Repaired%20Vintage%20fountain%20pens/VintageMB146012.jpg

 

[Soot]

Wow, Francis, I do admire your repairs! Stunningly done!

[elmer1950]

Really, a beautiful repair. It's clear you love pens, congratulations for such nice work!!

 

[hruodger]

It looks very cool!!! Congratulations!!!

[talkinghead]

 

 

Awesome

 

 

Rick

[newlife]

Hello Francis!

 

Very nicely done! Another fine proof of your skills which I highly admire.

 

Looking at your sketch I notice that the grip has a thread. Is it somehow sealed too, shellac maybe or does it tighten by itself? I'm just asking because yesterday I tried to remove the ebonite section from an old Soennecken 116 without success, so I had to polish it while still being joint. 15 minutes of heat from my hairdrier had absolutely no effect on loosening.

 

Klaus

[eckiethump]

Hi Francis,

Is that celluloid acetate rod stock you used ? It appears to have an attractive tinge to it, all the material I have have seen, is very clear or deliberately, when translucent, coloured. Very nice work, it isn't easy polishing particularly the inside of these type of projects to the standard you have here.

Eric

[Pen Nut]

Great job!

 

Inspirational to see work carried out with the obvious passion you have.

 

[fountainbel]

Double post, sorry !

Edited December 1, 2011 by fountainbel

[fountainbel]

Hello Francis!

 

Very nicely done! Another fine proof of your skills which I highly admire.

 

Looking at your sketch I notice that the grip has a thread. Is it somehow sealed too, shellac maybe or does it tighten by itself? I'm just asking because yesterday I tried to remove the ebonite section from an old Soennecken 116 without success, so I had to polish it while still being joint. 15 minutes of heat from my hairdrier had absolutely no effect on loosening.

 

Klaus

 

Hi Klaus.

I prefer sealing the section barrel threads with beeswax.

Using beeswax one can screw the section at any time out whitout heat;

I heat up the beeswax till it becomes liquid and apply it on the section threads

Having perfect matching threads, this was done on this pen

When the threadfit is too loose I tend using shellac.

One never knows which sealing agent is used on old and previously repaired pens.

I'vve already been in the same situation were I could not disassemble a section, probably glued with crazy glue or expoxy.

Not directly a major problem if one can access/repair the filling system from the barrel end.

In case this is not possible I cut the section off , drill the barrel end out and make a new section......

Hope this answers your question

Francis

BTW, On your Soennecken 111 I recently repaired I've also used beeswax on the threads of the nibunit

[Ghost Plane]

Very nice! For the non-purists, I think colored resin would be very pretty as well. Totally awesome looking.

[fountainbel]

Hi Francis,

Is that celluloid acetate rod stock you used ? It appears to have an attractive tinge to it, all the material I have have seen, is very clear or deliberately, when translucent, coloured. Very nice work, it isn't easy polishing particularly the inside of these type of projects to the standard you have here.

Eric

 

Thanks Eric,

Note the insert material is pure celluloid, not cellulose acetate.

Francis

[newlife]

Thanks Francis!

 

A last question comes to my mind concerning heat. How much can that kind of vintage Soennecken take? I think the ebonite can take a lot more than the barrel. Can you tell from your experience, how much °C can be applied? I don't want the barrel to deform or shrink or whatever might happen to it.

 

Thank you!