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L E Pelikan 1935 Or Pelikan 101...


christof

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It’s quite hard to get a serious Pelikan collection for a person who started collecting not until some years ago. Specially the early and colourful models are almost unreachable. For example the model 101. This model came in different combined colors. But the main difference to the model 100 are the colored caps. Except perhaps the “Lizard” or the “Tortoise” are this pens nearly inexistent on the market. And if there should be one though, it’s offered for a ridiculous high price. That's a serious dilemma!

 

In 1997, Pelikan started with the production of a series of limited editions. It was called: “Originals of their time”. Under this name, Pelikan produced in 1998 4000 pens, wich were replicas of the Pelikan 101 in malachite green. I am a collector of vintage pens and do not have big interest in limited or special editions. But the “Originals of their time” series is different. These pens are built very closely to their “Originals”, using hard rubber and celluloid. So in my opinion it’s worse to have no original Pelikan 101 in the collection than to have one of this well made replicas.

 

I got my pen for a quite fair price because it was used, missing the box and papers and the original nib. It was fitted with a quite smooth double broad two tone nib of the Sovereign series. So this pen was perfect for my “replica-project”.

 

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7164/6387797745_c1a73d375e_b.jpg

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7170/6387798153_fbaafa3cab_b.jpg

As first thing, I disassembled the pen to see what is different to an original Pelikan 100 from 1935. This is what I found:

 

1. The barrel of the replica is different. The joint between the section and the barrel is between the ink view and the cap threads. I didn’t found out if the section is also screwed into the barrel, or if the joint is glued, welded or just plugged.

 

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7035/6387797341_e41e45462a_b.jpg

2. The piston mechanics is also completely different. Piston seal and piston rod come from the Sovereign series also. But the piston housing and the turning knob are made of hard rubber, so the mechanics is identical form outside. Only the threads are different and the mechanics isn’t interchangeable, unfortunately.

 

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7022/6387796339_b26c94329e_b.jpg

http://farm7.staticflickr.com/6112/6389622601_d78e68a0d0_b.jpg

http://farm7.staticflickr.com/6049/6387796851_0a6954d90c_b.jpg

3. The nib unit is also from the Sovereign series. The feeder is the most unsuitable part in my opinion. That’s why I changed the complete unit, using a vintage pelican 100 nib and a vintage Pelikan 100N feeder (because of its diameter). Only the nib collar is a modern one.

 

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7025/6387799827_7a43ae2d55_b.jpg

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7153/6387800577_75420cd1ee_b.jpg

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7158/6387801287_bb44f9cacb_b.jpg

The Result is a quite close to the original I think. Only the condition is just a little bit to good…

 

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7017/6387798593_7b5eb47b5e_b.jpg

 

…forgot to mention that the pen writes great with its new (old) nib and the hard rubber feeder. Due to the great condition its no risk to use it and I take it sometimes to the office. Otherwwise it’s a nice addition to my collection.

 

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7141/6394600501_543b4aa20c_b.jpg

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7148/6387799497_40512a36a7_b.jpg

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7027/6387801715_892a7ec08c_b.jpg

Edited by christof
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Christof,

 

Super comparison. Thanks for the info.

 

I actually like the modern 18K F nibs they put on the 1935s; while a bit rigid, some of the best modern Pelikan nibs I've used.

 

I was wondering, can one just put a vintage nib (just the gold nib itself without the vintage feed) in a modern nib unit?

 

I guess I move around to much with pens in my hands, e.g. typing something; vintage Pelikans with vintage feeds tend to drop ink. I actually prefer from that point of view the modern feeds, which can handle my wild movements. I tried the modern 101N tortoise, but the nib sizing is really wide -- the Fine I tried wrote like a medium. Since I can't find a 1935 18K, if could just stick a vintage Fine nib (with the old writing) in a modern unit with a modern plastic feed, then I could get the nib size I liked and one that can handle my wild hand movements. :D

Anyone becomes mannered if you think too much about what other people think. (Kim Gordon)

 

Avatar photography by Kate

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Christof,

 

Super comparison. Thanks for the info.

 

I actually like the modern 18K F nibs they put on the 1935s; while a bit rigid, some of the best modern Pelikan nibs I've used.

 

I was wondering, can one just put a vintage nib (just the gold nib itself without the vintage feed) in a modern nib unit?

 

I guess I move around to much with pens in my hands, e.g. typing something; vintage Pelikans with vintage feeds tend to drop ink. I actually prefer from that point of view the modern feeds, which can handle my wild movements. I tried the modern 101N tortoise, but the nib sizing is really wide -- the Fine I tried wrote like a medium. Since I can't find a 1935 18K, if could just stick a vintage Fine nib (with the old writing) in a modern unit with a modern plastic feed, then I could get the nib size I liked and one that can handle my wild hand movements. :D

 

This might work. You just have to try. The advantage with vintage hard rubber feeds is they can be adjusted to the nib.

 

I also use vintage pelikan at work and carry them with me. Mines do not drop...

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:wub: Beautiful and informative, at the same time, thanks!

 

A superior collection of Pelikans is not hard, if you have enough money! :hmm1:

 

Thanks.

 

...but I am not sure about that money is the only key to get a complete* 101 collection...

 

 

* this includes the following colors:

 

- Coral Red

- Lapis Blue

- Jade/Malachite Green

- Tortoise

- Tortoise with RHR cap

- Lizard Skin

 

(all these colors were also made with so called "short cap tops" wich are even more difficult to find than the pens with "normal" cap proportions are...)

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:wub: Beautiful and informative, at the same time, thanks!

 

A superior collection of Pelikans is not hard, if you have enough money! :hmm1:

 

Thanks.

 

...but I am not sure about that money is the only key to get a complete* 101 collection...

 

 

* this includes the following colors:

 

- Coral Red

- Lapis Blue

- Jade/Malachite Green

- Tortoise

- Tortoise with RHR cap

- Lizard Skin

 

(all these colors were also made with so called "short cap tops" wich are even more difficult to find than the pens with "normal" cap proportions are...)

 

OK, let me change that to "enough money and a lot of searching". :eureka:

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could you give me some instructions on disassembly of the Pelikan LE? I have one and would love how to remove the piston assembly if I ever need to replace the seal. Thanks, David

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Thanks for your explanation Christof! It is also worth noting that one can change the cork for 2 small o-rings if necessary to create a seal. I have done this on a few custom models and they work very well and cost almost nothing.

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