Noodler's Ahab Flex Pen

[Phormio]

  On 4/13/2012 at 1:49 AM, Phormio said:

  On 12/20/2011 at 10:02 PM, Oliwerko said:

I just jumped on the Ahab bandwagon. Today a clear demo hit my mail.

 

The first thing I did was to change the O-ring. No problems, greased, assembled.

 

Then I did an overkill flushing - I took it apart, cleaning every single part with dish soap/water solution and then clear water; then I washed the nib and feed with soapy water using a toothbrush - multiple times. The feed was literally full of ebonite pieces. As I said, I paid extra attention to the feed, cleaning the fins and the channels with a hard toothbrush.

 

Then I assembled the pen and flushed it with soapy water using the piston. Then flushed again with clear water, disassembled the whole thing, dried with paper towels AND let to dry completely.

 

The whole process until I left it alone took an hour or so.

 

 

I assembled the pen again when dry and inked with Herbin Vert Empire. So far, it railroads a lot when flexed. The ink can get to the tip alright, but the flow is too slow. I tried various feed positions, and now I have the 9-fins-visible configuration. Still problems with flow. Readjusted several times, no help.

 

I'm letting it settle overnight, and if nothing helps, I'm taking it apart again tomorrow to repeat the cleaning process, and possibly running the blunt side of an xacto knife through the feed to be sure there's nothing left there. Do you have any better ideas what to do with it when the flow won't be satisfactory?

 

Oh, one more thing - I noticed that the tip of the feed is a bit asymmetrical. I mean, the tip of the feed is not centered with the central "edge" that comes down from the end of the bottom channel to the tip. So when aligning the feed, I can either position the whole feed in line with the nib (and have the tip leaning on one side), or align the tip of the feed with the nib, having the whole feed twisted a bit. What's more important when adjusting, the position of the whole feed, or of the tip itself? I guess this irregularity is not that significant and is just a result of the feeds being handmade, but I want to be sure...

 

Thanks!

 

I just got my Ahab and I am suffering similar issues. Mine feels a bit dry, and I can get it to railroad fairly easily. Tonight I am going to flush it again, possibly adjust the feed fins and re-align the feed to the nib to see if that helps. Given that I am trying it with Waterman's Florida Blue and given the feedback here, I think it is definitely a pen issue and not anink issue.

 

Right, update time- I got home and I cleaned it, disassembled it, wiped each individual piece, attacked the feed with a toothbrush, then a razor over vents 1-3, then a toothbrush again, reassembled and....

 

Preliminary tests show I now have a gusher, and I had to push down fairly hard to make it railroad. It took a few moments to start working properly but once going, it didn't stop. I will now try it over the next few days. If there are any problems, i'll post. Otherwise assume the best!

 

P

[P.A.R.]

  On 4/13/2012 at 1:27 PM, Phormio said:

Right, update time- I got home and I cleaned it, disassembled it, wiped each individual piece, attacked the feed with a toothbrush, then a razor over vents 1-3, then a toothbrush again, reassembled and....

 

Preliminary tests show I now have a gusher, and I had to push down fairly hard to make it railroad. It took a few moments to start working properly but once going, it didn't stop. I will now try it over the next few days. If there are any problems, i'll post. Otherwise assume the best!

 

P

 

Happy writing!

[SamCapote]

I am mystified though reading about the problems posted by Drone who seems to have done everything that needs to be done, and because of the simplicity of these parts to take out, clean, adjust. My suggestion in such cases is to ask for a replacement.

[wastelanded]

The Ahab is most definitely not a writes-out-of-the-box pen. It's quirky. But it's loveable. And it's a good introduction on how a fountain pen actually works, since there are detailed instructions on how to take it apart.

 

Mine was a bugger when I got it, no ink would reach the tip of the nib. Three times I dismantled it, and took an old toothbrush to the feed with soapy water, like five minutes of good scrubbing: *that* is the key I think. The main deterrent of ink seems to be the residue on the ebonite feed. Now it lays a verrrry wet line, and starts immediately even after sitting for a week.

 

My favourite thing about the Ahab is the filling system: basic, large, and works very well, and a doddle to clean. And the smell. I like the smell of the Ahab. When it mellows out it's like gingerbread, at least the black one is.

Edited April 13, 2012 by wastelanded

[Scribblesoften]

I just bought another Ahab. After receiving it, I disassembled it, cleaned with dilute dish soap, and reassembled it. Filled it with ink. Writes like a champ. No flow issues. This is my third Ahab. The others were from the initial offering. The feed in this pen seems to have been cut a little more carefully. I do not know if this is an example of pen to pen variation or a sign of better quality control with later pens. This one is definitely a keeper. Nice wet line, smooth semi-flex nib with quick snap back after flexing. It can be made to railroad but only when trying. Incredible value for $20.

[P.A.R.]

  On 4/14/2012 at 12:05 AM, Scribblesoften said:

I just bought another Ahab. After receiving it, I disassembled it, cleaned with dilute dish soap, and reassembled it. Filled it with ink. Writes like a champ. No flow issues. This is my third Ahab. The others were from the initial offering. The feed in this pen seems to have been cut a little more carefully. I do not know if this is an example of pen to pen variation or a sign of better quality control with later pens. This one is definitely a keeper. Nice wet line, smooth semi-flex nib with quick snap back after flexing. It can be made to railroad but only when trying. Incredible value for $20.

Agreed. I just got my fourth Ahab in the mail a couple of days ago. Not only is the color, Medieval Lapis, amazing, but all I did was flush and scrub it with diluted ammonia and ink it up. No problems, nice wet flow with Noodler's Midnight Blue. It railroads if I try to flex it extensively because I didn't cut any channels, but I like flow of this one for general writing.

 

I already have four Ahabs, assuming I find the Ruby one that I've apparently misplaced - I'm pretty sure it's *somewhere* around the house though. I don't think I should get any more of these as I can only use four or five pens at a time without having to worry about cleaning. I really want to get a B-OBB set from xfountainpens to diversify my Ahab collection a little.

[tanalasta]

I have two Ahab's which are now working and flowing well .. and I imagine that the feeds have well and truly been cleaned and broken in. None of them required anything drastic (e.g. using a scapel to adjust flow or feed). It writes reasonably wet as an EF with some semi-flex but railroads if I press too hard.

 

For $20, the ease of use once tuned, ink capacity, lovely vegetal resin colours and the fact it writes smoother than my $50 TWSBI ... I love it.

 

I probably don't need to buy anymore but I can imagine having at least one in my rotatino at most times.

[Phormio]

  On 4/13/2012 at 1:27 PM, Phormio said:

  On 4/13/2012 at 1:49 AM, Phormio said:

  On 12/20/2011 at 10:02 PM, Oliwerko said:

I just jumped on the Ahab bandwagon. Today a clear demo hit my mail.

 

The first thing I did was to change the O-ring. No problems, greased, assembled.

 

Then I did an overkill flushing - I took it apart, cleaning every single part with dish soap/water solution and then clear water; then I washed the nib and feed with soapy water using a toothbrush - multiple times. The feed was literally full of ebonite pieces. As I said, I paid extra attention to the feed, cleaning the fins and the channels with a hard toothbrush.

 

Then I assembled the pen and flushed it with soapy water using the piston. Then flushed again with clear water, disassembled the whole thing, dried with paper towels AND let to dry completely.

 

The whole process until I left it alone took an hour or so.

 

 

I assembled the pen again when dry and inked with Herbin Vert Empire. So far, it railroads a lot when flexed. The ink can get to the tip alright, but the flow is too slow. I tried various feed positions, and now I have the 9-fins-visible configuration. Still problems with flow. Readjusted several times, no help.

 

I'm letting it settle overnight, and if nothing helps, I'm taking it apart again tomorrow to repeat the cleaning process, and possibly running the blunt side of an xacto knife through the feed to be sure there's nothing left there. Do you have any better ideas what to do with it when the flow won't be satisfactory?

 

Oh, one more thing - I noticed that the tip of the feed is a bit asymmetrical. I mean, the tip of the feed is not centered with the central "edge" that comes down from the end of the bottom channel to the tip. So when aligning the feed, I can either position the whole feed in line with the nib (and have the tip leaning on one side), or align the tip of the feed with the nib, having the whole feed twisted a bit. What's more important when adjusting, the position of the whole feed, or of the tip itself? I guess this irregularity is not that significant and is just a result of the feeds being handmade, but I want to be sure...

 

Thanks!

 

I just got my Ahab and I am suffering similar issues. Mine feels a bit dry, and I can get it to railroad fairly easily. Tonight I am going to flush it again, possibly adjust the feed fins and re-align the feed to the nib to see if that helps. Given that I am trying it with Waterman's Florida Blue and given the feedback here, I think it is definitely a pen issue and not anink issue.

 

Right, update time- I got home and I cleaned it, disassembled it, wiped each individual piece, attacked the feed with a toothbrush, then a razor over vents 1-3, then a toothbrush again, reassembled and....

 

Preliminary tests show I now have a gusher, and I had to push down fairly hard to make it railroad. It took a few moments to start working properly but once going, it didn't stop. I will now try it over the next few days. If there are any problems, i'll post. Otherwise assume the best!

 

P

 

Picked it up again tonight and - difficult again. I've scribbled with it and got it to flow again but it started dry.In saying that, I wrote fine and consistantly but was scratchier and would railroad at flex. After a while of doodling I could get it to be generous with the flow. This inconsistancy is a little frustrating. For my next step I'm thinking this one may benefit from a Eel ink.

[Drone]

  On 4/14/2012 at 9:29 AM, Phormio said:

  On 4/13/2012 at 1:27 PM, Phormio said:

  On 4/13/2012 at 1:49 AM, Phormio said:

  On 12/20/2011 at 10:02 PM, Oliwerko said:

I just jumped on the Ahab bandwagon. Today a clear demo hit my mail.

 

The first thing I did was to change the O-ring. No problems, greased, assembled.

 

Then I did an overkill flushing - I took it apart, cleaning every single part with dish soap/water solution and then clear water; then I washed the nib and feed with soapy water using a toothbrush - multiple times. The feed was literally full of ebonite pieces. As I said, I paid extra attention to the feed, cleaning the fins and the channels with a hard toothbrush.

 

Then I assembled the pen and flushed it with soapy water using the piston. Then flushed again with clear water, disassembled the whole thing, dried with paper towels AND let to dry completely.

 

The whole process until I left it alone took an hour or so.

 

 

I assembled the pen again when dry and inked with Herbin Vert Empire. So far, it railroads a lot when flexed. The ink can get to the tip alright, but the flow is too slow. I tried various feed positions, and now I have the 9-fins-visible configuration. Still problems with flow. Readjusted several times, no help.

 

I'm letting it settle overnight, and if nothing helps, I'm taking it apart again tomorrow to repeat the cleaning process, and possibly running the blunt side of an xacto knife through the feed to be sure there's nothing left there. Do you have any better ideas what to do with it when the flow won't be satisfactory?

 

Oh, one more thing - I noticed that the tip of the feed is a bit asymmetrical. I mean, the tip of the feed is not centered with the central "edge" that comes down from the end of the bottom channel to the tip. So when aligning the feed, I can either position the whole feed in line with the nib (and have the tip leaning on one side), or align the tip of the feed with the nib, having the whole feed twisted a bit. What's more important when adjusting, the position of the whole feed, or of the tip itself? I guess this irregularity is not that significant and is just a result of the feeds being handmade, but I want to be sure...

 

Thanks!

 

I just got my Ahab and I am suffering similar issues. Mine feels a bit dry, and I can get it to railroad fairly easily. Tonight I am going to flush it again, possibly adjust the feed fins and re-align the feed to the nib to see if that helps. Given that I am trying it with Waterman's Florida Blue and given the feedback here, I think it is definitely a pen issue and not anink issue.

 

Right, update time- I got home and I cleaned it, disassembled it, wiped each individual piece, attacked the feed with a toothbrush, then a razor over vents 1-3, then a toothbrush again, reassembled and....

 

Preliminary tests show I now have a gusher, and I had to push down fairly hard to make it railroad. It took a few moments to start working properly but once going, it didn't stop. I will now try it over the next few days. If there are any problems, i'll post. Otherwise assume the best!

 

P

 

Picked it up again tonight and - difficult again. I've scribbled with it and got it to flow again but it started dry.In saying that, I wrote fine and consistently but was scratchier and would railroad at flex. After a while of doodling I could get it to be generous with the flow. This inconsistency is a little frustrating. For my next step I'm thinking this one may benefit from a Eel ink.

 

I should have said this earlier in my contribution to this thread. In now way at all am I belittling the effort made by Nathan of Noodler's Ink to bring us the likes of the Ahab (and others).

 

We need these pens to bring back affordable fountain pens that we so much miss in the form of what we can only find in the likes of "Vintage" instruments these days (ARE YOU LISTENING Newell-Rubbermaid? I don't think so...)

 

@Phormio...

 

I have the same problem you describe in your last post.

 

I am beginning to think that many if not most of the "Ahabs working out-of-the-box after cleaning" posts are from users that really don't put mileage on the pen in one sitting.

 

After fill (which really just dips the nib IMHO), My Ahab writes perfectly, and gets wetter when I "hack" the feed (unfortunately a one way trip since we CANNOT buy replacement nibs or feeds!)

 

But after a page or two (or three) of flourishes - rail, rail rail; then nothing at all. I have to aggressively shake the pen or force ink into the nib or even use the plunger to get the pen to write again.

 

BTW, You don't need to buy EEL to get lube. Just add a very small amount of surfactant (I use unperfumed "green" dish soap) to your ink. I use a small vial of ink syringe filled and add the detergent - so as not to compromise a whole bottle of ink.

 

Lube has No effect on my Ahab.

 

I'm pretty sure now the problem with my Ahab is that something stopping flow from the reservoir. I meticulously cleaned the internals of the pen in the hope that would remove something inhibiting flow. Naw... waste of time.

 

I inspected how the feed meets the section as closely as possible under a hi-mag loupe with strong lighting. I don't see anything that could possibly cause flow-block to the nib and feed.

 

I'm not a professional pen mechanic, but I've been through a lot; especially with vintage stuff. I've never seen problems like this save for some Chinese and/or S. Asia (bleep). I guess that's where I'm at with this pen. I may have a bad nib/feed, but to be honest, I've tried to buy replacements with poor results so-far (this deserves a new post all on it's own - I'm keeping records about this).

 

My situation is not like the reset of you in the "First World". I live in S.E. Asia. In the U.S., you can buy an Ahab and if it doesn't work, you just buy another. For me, the twenty buck cost of the Ahab is totally lost in the time and huge cost to get the pen to me. But that's my problem to deal with.

 

The battle continues...

[Scribblesoften]

One of the "Ahabs working out-of-the-box after cleaning" postings is mine. In my initial fill of my latest Ahab, I wrote it dry. It took some time and I did take the occasional break. The pen ran out of ink mid word and it was empty. One of my other Ahabs has been my usual use pen for the last two weeks. It's overal performance and behavior is what prompted my purchase of the new Ahab. So, yeah some of us do put mileage on our pens. I'm sorry to hear you are having problems. I hope you get them worked out.

[SamCapote]

Drone, I think you did this, but make sure to scrape out the lengthwise top air channel and bottom ink channel several times, firmly with something like the backside of an Xacto blade from front to back, then back to front. You don't have to cut into the ebonite, but according to Nathan some of these have a waxy type of lubricant that can get lodged in the channels, and won't easily clean out. He also suggested using a stronger cleaner like Formula 409 or Simple Green which are household countertop spray cleaner/degreasers, and then rinse with water.

 

Apparently the remaining waxy machining lubricant acts as a hydrophobic barrier that makes it hard for ink to move past it. This almost has to be the problem. And while you are at it, thoroughly clean the inside of the section, including with the 409 type cleaner on a Q-tip in case lubricant got on that. I had no harm to my ebonite feeds or section when cleaning with this Formula 409 or Simple Green being in contact for at least 30 seconds.

 

One other tip that helped me was to gently (stepwise) push the nib tip against paper with it upside down, trying to bend it a tiny bit closer to the feed. I had experimented with checking the flexing a bit too much and while the tip did not get "sprung" back, it was tilted up a bit. Bringing it back down make it work perfect with flow again.

 

Good Luck

[Phormio]

  On 4/14/2012 at 9:29 AM, Phormio said:

  On 4/13/2012 at 1:27 PM, Phormio said:

  On 4/13/2012 at 1:49 AM, Phormio said:

  On 12/20/2011 at 10:02 PM, Oliwerko said:

I just jumped on the Ahab bandwagon. Today a clear demo hit my mail.

 

The first thing I did was to change the O-ring. No problems, greased, assembled.

 

Then I did an overkill flushing - I took it apart, cleaning every single part with dish soap/water solution and then clear water; then I washed the nib and feed with soapy water using a toothbrush - multiple times. The feed was literally full of ebonite pieces. As I said, I paid extra attention to the feed, cleaning the fins and the channels with a hard toothbrush.

 

Then I assembled the pen and flushed it with soapy water using the piston. Then flushed again with clear water, disassembled the whole thing, dried with paper towels AND let to dry completely.

 

The whole process until I left it alone took an hour or so.

 

 

I assembled the pen again when dry and inked with Herbin Vert Empire. So far, it railroads a lot when flexed. The ink can get to the tip alright, but the flow is too slow. I tried various feed positions, and now I have the 9-fins-visible configuration. Still problems with flow. Readjusted several times, no help.

 

I'm letting it settle overnight, and if nothing helps, I'm taking it apart again tomorrow to repeat the cleaning process, and possibly running the blunt side of an xacto knife through the feed to be sure there's nothing left there. Do you have any better ideas what to do with it when the flow won't be satisfactory?

 

Oh, one more thing - I noticed that the tip of the feed is a bit asymmetrical. I mean, the tip of the feed is not centered with the central "edge" that comes down from the end of the bottom channel to the tip. So when aligning the feed, I can either position the whole feed in line with the nib (and have the tip leaning on one side), or align the tip of the feed with the nib, having the whole feed twisted a bit. What's more important when adjusting, the position of the whole feed, or of the tip itself? I guess this irregularity is not that significant and is just a result of the feeds being handmade, but I want to be sure...

 

Thanks!

 

I just got my Ahab and I am suffering similar issues. Mine feels a bit dry, and I can get it to railroad fairly easily. Tonight I am going to flush it again, possibly adjust the feed fins and re-align the feed to the nib to see if that helps. Given that I am trying it with Waterman's Florida Blue and given the feedback here, I think it is definitely a pen issue and not anink issue.

 

Right, update time- I got home and I cleaned it, disassembled it, wiped each individual piece, attacked the feed with a toothbrush, then a razor over vents 1-3, then a toothbrush again, reassembled and....

 

Preliminary tests show I now have a gusher, and I had to push down fairly hard to make it railroad. It took a few moments to start working properly but once going, it didn't stop. I will now try it over the next few days. If there are any problems, i'll post. Otherwise assume the best!

 

P

 

Picked it up again tonight and - difficult again. I've scribbled with it and got it to flow again but it started dry.In saying that, I wrote fine and consistantly but was scratchier and would railroad at flex. After a while of doodling I could get it to be generous with the flow. This inconsistancy is a little frustrating. For my next step I'm thinking this one may benefit from a Eel ink.

 

To add to this comment further I've just come from a meeting where I took 17 pages of notes. The pen still has ink in it and it wrote almost perfectly the whole time. For the most part, the pen was wet and juicy and smooth. From start up I can still make it railroad but once going railroading is an effort. The only difference between today and the other day was I turned the pen over and pushed the tines back a little as per SamCapote's suggestion.In fact,after todays meeting I capped the pen, out it in my bag, then in the car and drove nearly an hour back to my office. When I removed the cap, I noticed a ink residue and drops on the feed and grip that I hadn't seen before. I think I may have cracked the Ahab Code!!

 

P

[jor412]

I had no problems with my clear Ahab. But the other day, I decided to try it out as an eyedropper. I had the ink (Sailor epinard) in the barrel for about a week and then decided to switch colors. After cleaning the pen, I noticed that the barrel was no longer the same clear "color" as the cap. It now has a pinkish hue. I doubt it's the Sailor ink. (My second Ahab is black. The filling mechanism inside is, of course, clear. But the threaded part also has that same pinkish hue.) Anyone have a clue if I can do anything about my barrel?

[JonSzanto]

  On 4/15/2012 at 2:09 AM, SamCapote said:

Drone, I think you did this, but make sure to scrape out the lengthwise top air channel and bottom ink channel several times, firmly with something like the backside of an Xacto blade from front to back, then back to front. You don't have to cut into the ebonite, but according to Nathan some of these have a waxy type of lubricant that can get lodged in the channels, and won't easily clean out. He also suggested using a stronger cleaner like Formula 409 or Simple Green which are household countertop spray cleaner/degreasers, and then rinse with water.

 

Apparently the remaining waxy machining lubricant acts as a hydrophobic barrier that makes it hard for ink to move past it. This almost has to be the problem. And while you are at it, thoroughly clean the inside of the section, including with the 409 type cleaner on a Q-tip in case lubricant got on that. I had no harm to my ebonite feeds or section when cleaning with this Formula 409 or Simple Green being in contact for at least 30 seconds.

 

One other tip that helped me was to gently (stepwise) push the nib tip against paper with it upside down, trying to bend it a tiny bit closer to the feed. I had experimented with checking the flexing a bit too much and while the tip did not get "sprung" back, it was tilted up a bit. Bringing it back down make it work perfect with flow again.

I quoted the above, and respond as follows, but this isn't specific to Sam. Many people have jumped through similar hoops, many others have read varying paragraphs of what-to-dos about a pen like the Ahab. I've been a fan of Nathan's inks for a good long while, but the trouble with my very first Noodler's Flex pen put me off for these very reasons. It causes me to ask:

 

Sam, would you be both this forgiving, and willing to go to those lengths, if the pen in question cost $100-200? And if not, at what price point do we figure that, hell, it's an inexpensive pen, I guess it is up to me to do some of the work that should have been done by the manufacturer?

 

Frankly, it seems to be a bit much to ask. For heaven's sake, what about the people that don't have the resource of FPN? If earlier, mainstream manufacturers had put out pens like this we'd never have vintage pens to find.

[Phormio]

  On 4/17/2012 at 6:27 AM, JonSzanto said:

  On 4/15/2012 at 2:09 AM, SamCapote said:

Drone, I think you did this, but make sure to scrape out the lengthwise top air channel and bottom ink channel several times, firmly with something like the backside of an Xacto blade from front to back, then back to front. You don't have to cut into the ebonite, but according to Nathan some of these have a waxy type of lubricant that can get lodged in the channels, and won't easily clean out. He also suggested using a stronger cleaner like Formula 409 or Simple Green which are household countertop spray cleaner/degreasers, and then rinse with water.

 

Apparently the remaining waxy machining lubricant acts as a hydrophobic barrier that makes it hard for ink to move past it. This almost has to be the problem. And while you are at it, thoroughly clean the inside of the section, including with the 409 type cleaner on a Q-tip in case lubricant got on that. I had no harm to my ebonite feeds or section when cleaning with this Formula 409 or Simple Green being in contact for at least 30 seconds.

 

One other tip that helped me was to gently (stepwise) push the nib tip against paper with it upside down, trying to bend it a tiny bit closer to the feed. I had experimented with checking the flexing a bit too much and while the tip did not get "sprung" back, it was tilted up a bit. Bringing it back down make it work perfect with flow again.

I quoted the above, and respond as follows, but this isn't specific to Sam. Many people have jumped through similar hoops, many others have read varying paragraphs of what-to-dos about a pen like the Ahab. I've been a fan of Nathan's inks for a good long while, but the trouble with my very first Noodler's Flex pen put me off for these very reasons. It causes me to ask:

 

Sam, would you be both this forgiving, and willing to go to those lengths, if the pen in question cost $100-200? And if not, at what price point do we figure that, hell, it's an inexpensive pen, I guess it is up to me to do some of the work that should have been done by the manufacturer?

 

Frankly, it seems to be a bit much to ask. For heaven's sake, what about the people that don't have the resource of FPN? If earlier, mainstream manufacturers had put out pens like this we'd never have vintage pens to find.

 

This is a very valid point. I am happy with my Ahab now but it took some work. Now it is working, at $20 it's a bargain! But you're quite right, if it was from another manufacturer or cost more there would be cries for blood.

 

I think what makes it acceptable for this pen is 1. how cheap it is 2. the goodwill of Noodlers and the appreciation of what Nathan is trying to do with these cheap pens and 3. the joy that comes from the pen when its working right.

 

I think if we could get them consistantly working out of the box, this pen would have a devastating impact on the fountain pen world.

[P.A.R.]

  On 4/17/2012 at 6:03 AM, jor412 said:

I had no problems with my clear Ahab. But the other day, I decided to try it out as an eyedropper. I had the ink (Sailor epinard) in the barrel for about a week and then decided to switch colors. After cleaning the pen, I noticed that the barrel was no longer the same clear "color" as the cap. It now has a pinkish hue. I doubt it's the Sailor ink. (My second Ahab is black. The filling mechanism inside is, of course, clear. But the threaded part also has that same pinkish hue.) Anyone have a clue if I can do anything about my barrel?

Mine had the same pinkish hue and it was due to the ink. I used a cotton swab and more or less scrubbed the pink off the sides after wetting it. Not too difficult. I wasn't able to reach the very bottom of the barrel, so it's still a bit pink. I'm not really bothered by it.

 

You might try letting the barrel sit filled with some dilluted ammonia if the above doesn't work. I dunno.

 

After getting the newer o-rings, the Ahab's syringe filler refills so quickly that the smaller capacity vs eyedropper mode isn't really an issue and there's very little chance of ink burps due to heat changes.

Edited April 17, 2012 by P.A.R.

[jor412]

  On 4/17/2012 at 3:15 PM, P.A.R. said:

Mine had the same pinkish hue and it was due to the ink. I used a cotton swab and more or less scrubbed the pink off the sides after wetting it. Not too difficult. I wasn't able to reach the very bottom of the barrel, so it's still a bit pink. I'm not really bothered by it.

 

You might try letting the barrel sit filled with some dilluted ammonia if the above doesn't work. I dunno.

 

After getting the newer o-rings, the Ahab's syringe filler refills so quickly that the smaller capacity vs eyedropper mode isn't really an issue and there's very little chance of ink burps due to heat changes.

 

Thanks. I'll try the ammonia solution.

[JonSzanto]

  On 4/17/2012 at 2:03 PM, Phormio said:

I think if we could get them consistantly working out of the box, this pen would have a devastating impact on the fountain pen world.

Precisely. I really wouldn't even bother with the topic at all if it wasn't for Nathan's stated opinion that most of the fountain pen world is too expensive, and that he was out to rectify that. If at least some large part of his goal is to bring these tools to the uninitiated, they simply can't come saddled with a bunch of issues that are mostly sorted out amongst people who have the time, inclination, and knowledge base to get them working as they should have in the first place.

 

All kudos to what he has done, but I'd like to see these potential game-changers actually be contenders.

[Phormio]

  On 4/17/2012 at 4:41 PM, JonSzanto said:

 

All kudos to what he has done, but I'd like to see these potential game-changers actually be contenders.

 

Agreed.

[SamCapote]

Jon/Phormio, thanks for your honest comments.

 

First let me stand up for myself. If you read many of my posts on the Ahab, I am not forgiving. Rather, I am being helpful. I'm not a Noodler's representative, just someone who took the time to build a relationship with Nathan over several years...which started 4 years ago with the locked, infamous "Baystate Blue Ruined My Yellow Lamy" thread. I now regard him as a friend, and someone I have a great deal of respect and appreciation for. I have been quite blunt with Ahab problems, and supportive of those trying to fix them. I have said repeatedly that the enhanced, double edge piston O-ring should have been included free either in the box, or in place of the crappy one that sticks like a warped wood door.

 

My offering help or suggestions to FPN members does not in any way condone the failure of proper QA being done. it comes from taking my time speaking with him about the problems and learning things that others may not know--which I then share. Everyone knows that Nathan is a Yankee tightwad, and he errs on the side of having problems and dealing with them laboriously (including maintaining his operation alone) in the interest of finding the cheapest alternative. I have made almost all the QA problems known to him that have been reported, and they upset him deeply...but essentially this is the "cloth he was cut from," and people need to find the good in what he intends, rather than expecting perfection.

 

Now the other relevant issue, given the enormous quantity of Ahabs that he has sold worldwide, and using my own experience (buying 12 of them from Goulet & IsellPens) is that most of them did work out of the box. It's not like every single one of them is lathered up with waxy lubricant and ebonite debris scattered all about. There have also been innumerable users who pulled out the nib and feed, looked it over to learn from it (try that with your $100-200 pens), but then jammed it back in without paying attention to the recessed cutout nib slot. There are many other versions of people unfamiliar with the parts of a pen in general, and with a flex nib in particular, making beginner's mistakes such as not knowing how hard to press down on the nib, and unintentionally bending it up a tiny bit and messing up the flow. Is that all Nathan's fault too?

 

What I find most curious however is the fact that there have been even more structural, design, and failed QA problems with the TWSBI pens and glass bottles, which are more than twice as expensive, but I don't see them getting the same amount of vitriolic grief as does Nathan. I have 3 530's, 3 540's, and all 6 of the glass inkwell bottles. Do you want me to start listing all the problems with the o-rings leaking, cracks developing in the section of two, cracks in the piston metal anchor area, ink not going through the tiny hole from the barrel into the section, etc. etc. All told with my TWSBI pens, there has been over a 50% QA/design failure rate. Then there is their failure to post in a proper, balanced manner, and not onto the piston filling knob. I ordered all 6 colors of their glass inkwell bottles and 100% of them leaked because they did not make the top edge of the glass threads flush so it seals against the lid. Their response has been great, willing to fix or refund, and I recognize these are new designs...but with new custom designs come problems. Same was true with all major name brand pen companies early in their product development history--but we didn't have an internet back then to collect and voice all the issues publicly.

 

Out of the three $100+ Stipula Passaportos I ordered from Fahrneys & Bertrams, one had the chrome electroplating flaked off on the outside of the cap, and the second one leaked (dripped) out of front section where the nib/feed apparently had too loose of a fit. I had to pay return shipping on both to get replacements. Two of my Pelikans had to be returned for significant scratchy nibs before I learned how to do some adjustment and smoothing on my own, or pay a higher price getting them from Binder or Mottishaw. Other than Noodlers and TWSBI, no self-repair, assembly, cleaning, or self-maintenance guidelines were issued with any of the major brand pens.

 

You want more examples of supposed quality $100-$500 brand name pens that had QA issues? I also have had a slew of problems with pens that were under $25 in the skipping, cracking, clips breaking off, and leaking type categories. My point is that all this Ahab attitude needs to be kept in a proper perspective, and just because there are vocal complainers in threads here at FPN does not mean that any one brand has major problems. How many retail pens arrive with complete disassembly, nib adjustment, ebonite feed slit cutting instructions (which encourages learning, self-service, and user control), resin body, novel filling mechanism...and for only twenty bucks?