How To Take Apart A Sheaffer Imperial Cartridge

[foolhorse]

I've learned that the feed of a sheaffer imperial TD can be take out simply by unscrew. What about a imperial cartridge? I have tried to heat the section in hot water and unscrew it, but it doesn't work. If it is really screw in, which direction in the picture should I unscrew, direction 1 or direction 2?

 

This picture is from the internet

 

Thanks for any advice.

Edited May 26, 2011 by foolhorse

[Mr.Rene]

If I am not wrong, turning to left, picture 1, be ware do not crack hood...!

[Inka]

You picture shows a section, the end is not a cartridge but rather the section end where the cartridge attaches to that metal nipple.

There is a feed inside the section, perhaps that's what you meant?

I've not taken apart these particular Sheaffer pens, so I'll let someone that has done this reply to that portion of your situation.

[Inka]

I'm not sure this will help you, but I did find a YouTube video of someone taking out the feed from what looks like an Imperial section seen by clicking

.

Another thing I'd found was a place actually selling what looks like entire front sections they call SHEAFFER IMPERIAL "PORPOISE HEAD" REPLACEMENT SECTIONS for @ $15 seen by clicking here.

 

I don't know either of these people/ companies, this was only my attempt to help.

I'd personally still wait for someone like Ron Zorn or another of the experts to chime in and tell you how to do this properly, to avoid irreversible damage to your nice pen.

 

Best wishes, best of luck, sorry I couldn't be of more help to you right now.

[watch_art]

this might help. maybe. i don't know.

 

[foolhorse]

Oh,,,many replies disappeared especially Ron Zorn's which explained in detail.

[watch_art]

He said that the video I posted is the correct way to take apart the cart pen, that they're built the same.

[Ron Z]

Let's see if I can recreate the reply.

 

Sheaffer made 3 versions of the Imperial section. Two have plastic threads. The third and latest one has metal section/connector threads and is different enough in design that the parts can not be interchanged with the other two. But the connector pieces with plastic threads can be interchanged. All three come apart in essentially the same way.

 

Sheaffer used a heat sensitive adhesive to secure the connector. Warm the section near the connector. Don't over heat because the plastic around the pressure ring can be damaged if you get it too hot. The connector will unscrew to reveal the feed, insert and 0-ring inside. Section pliers on the threads and a grippy pad on the section help Most of the sections also have a trim ring that is captured by the connector. The insert is part of the feed, and carries the ink down to the main part of the feed. The 0-ring keeps the ink from getting back out around the threads, and should be replaced when the section is taken apart. Remove the feed by pushing from the front, don't pull on the insert. If it is stuck, soak it for a while to soften the dried ink. A piece of a chop stick will help push without damaging the feed.

 

As a side note, the same 0-ring is used in the Targa nib assemblies.

 

As noted before, the internal parts can be swapped out on the plastic threaded nib assemblies. If you have a TD section and need a C/C section or vise versa, you can swap out the connectors. Reassembly is just the reverse. You should use some thread sealant on the threads when you put it back together, as much to keep it from unscrewing by accident as to seal the threads. Don't use shellac because it may require too much heat to get the section apart again.

 

The design of the later Imperial sections is much like that of the Targa. The metal connector also has the white adhesive. The difference is that the piercing tube and surrounding plastic are not part of the threaded piece, but they are held captive by it. You can not swap out the feeds with those from the other two Imperial sections. They are a different design and length.

 

An important thing to note (and this applies to a Targa too)... The piece that holds the piercing tube is keyed. i.e. it fits into the shell in only one position because it interlocks with notches in the shell to keep it from rotating as you screw the connector back in place. If not in the right position the connector will not screw all of the way down, and you may damage the shell and/or the piercing tube holder.

[foolhorse]

Ron Z, you're so cool. Thank you very much.

[EBUCKTHORN]

I recently acquired a Shaeffer pen that has the general appearance of an Imperial, a 14K nib, gold color trim, and both a white dot and "Lifetime" on the clip. I'm having trouble figuring out just which model in the Imperial family this is. If anyone can identify it from that description I would appreciate it, BUT the primarily reason i'm posting in this thread is to inquire about the section-to-cartidge connection. My section looks just like the one in the image accompanying the intial post in this thread. It seems that once a cartridge is pierced it is secured only by the piercing nipple and the cartridge simply butting against the section, as opposed to also being held by its protruding into a short metal, or plastic, tubular fitting, as is the case with other models. Was this arangement prone to problems caused by a less secure connection than the designs in which the connection was reinforced by the end of the cartridge also sticking into the tubular fitting? Thank you.

[Ron Z]

I'm not sure what you're asking, but I'll take a stab at what I think you're asking....

 

The silver tube sticking out of the end of the section in the OP's picture is the piercing tube. It is found on all Sheaffer C/C fountain pens. The cartridge or converter is a snug fit over this piercing tube - it has to be to have a good, ink tight seal. This can be sufficient to hold the cartridge in pace in the pen. On occasion, on some of the pens this tube gets pushed forward in the plug or section so that only the unprotected feed is exposed. I've seen this on the Sheaffer Imperials and Targas with the metal section threads.

 

In some, if not most Sheaffer fountain pens, there is a step (sometimes a series of fins, open in the middle) in the end of the barrel against which the other end of the cartridge presses. This holds the cartridge against the section.

[EBUCKTHORN]

Thanks Ron. I now realize that the pen was designed to have the cartridge butt against the flat end of the section and it is held in place by the piercing tube at one end and the snug fit of the barrel at the other. After a thorough flush and the insertion of a cartridge, it is writing well.

 

Last night i was searching again to identify it and came up with two possibilities: 1) An Imperial IV of the early "Lifetime" years or, 2) Imperial 550 (except for the "Lifetime" on the clip). My description is: it has the appearance of an Imperial, plastic cap, 14K inlaid nib, gold color trim, and both a white dot and "Lifetime" on the clip. Does that tell enough to identify it? Thanks for your help, Barry

[Ron Z]

I know how the Sheaffer pens go together and how to repair them, but don't ask me about the Sheaffer names and model variations/labels. Talk to Dan Kirchheimer or Jim Mamoulides at PenHero. Jim has a nice article on the Imperial lineup here.

[EBUCKTHORN]

Thanks for responding again Ron. Thanks too, for the link. I have been searching the various Sheaffer information sources and can't quite pin down this pen-almost, but not quite. I certainly recognize that your great expertise focuses on fixing, not naming. I guess i should just enjoy the pen and not worry about what it's to be called!