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Cross Ballpoint Pen Disassembly & Cleaning


GarryR

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UPDATE: As a result of reading this post, I used some WD-40 on a NOS but frozen 20 year old chrome Century ballpoint pen....excellent results. I'm guessing that the WD-40 "thinned" the ancient lube in the OEM pen.

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Hi, I came across this forum thread after a Google search in order to find out how to rectify a stiff mechanism on a Cross Ball Point Pen. Not really solved in this thread but certainly some good advice.

 

I did however continue on a Google search and found this tool kit which appears to be made for this very job. It comes in both 7mm and 10mm for the larger diameter pens. I ordered a 7mm kit.

 

Apologies as this thread is getting a bit on the old side... :-)

 

The kit is here:- http://www.woodcraft.com/Search2/Search.aspx?query=125755

 

Instructions here:- http://www2.woodcraft.com/PDF/77B17.pdf

Edited by nbc
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Hi, I came across this forum thread after a Google search in order to find out how to rectify a stiff mechanism on a Cross Ball Point Pen. Not really solved in this thread but certainly some good advice.

 

I did however continue on a Google search and found this tool kit which appears to be made for this very job. It comes in both 7mm and 10mm for the larger diameter pens. I ordered a 7mm kit.

 

 

The kit is here:- http://www.woodcraft.com/Search2/Search.aspx?query=125755

 

Instructions here:- http://www2.woodcraft.com/PDF/77B17.pdf

 

It looks like the kit/tool presses out the pen's internal twist mechanism? This would be consistent with

the Cross century I had where the entire twist mechanism came out the top of the pen..it looked like it was

pressed into the lower pen body..not screwed. There was grease on the thread of the twist mechanism.

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Hi, I came across this forum thread after a Google search in order to find out how to rectify a stiff mechanism on a Cross Ball Point Pen. Not really solved in this thread but certainly some good advice.

 

I did however continue on a Google search and found this tool kit which appears to be made for this very job. It comes in both 7mm and 10mm for the larger diameter pens. I ordered a 7mm kit.

 

Apologies as this thread is getting a bit on the old side... :-)

 

The kit is here:- http://www.woodcraft...px?query=125755

 

Instructions here:- http://www2.woodcraf...m/PDF/77B17.pdf

 

These are for kit pens (for pen turning), some of which take cross-style refills. I would be very surprised if these worked on an actual Cross pen, and think it's more likely that you'd destroy the pen in attempting to follow these instructions.

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These are for kit pens (for pen turning), some of which take cross-style refills. I would be very surprised if these worked on an actual Cross pen, and think it's more likely that you'd destroy the pen in attempting to follow these instructions.

 

I did order the kit so it should be here (Australia) in a couple of weeks. Probably the best thing I can do is try it on a pen with a very stiff mechanism and see how it goes and report back. :-)

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  • 2 months later...

These are for kit pens (for pen turning), some of which take cross-style refills. I would be very surprised if these worked on an actual Cross pen, and think it's more likely that you'd destroy the pen in attempting to follow these instructions.

 

I did order the kit so it should be here (Australia) in a couple of weeks. Probably the best thing I can do is try it on a pen with a very stiff mechanism and see how it goes and report back. :-)

 

So! What happened?

 

I have a pair of Cross ballpoint and pencil kits, which were standard "award pens" when I was at GE...'84 - 99. Meaning my oldest dates from 1986, It's getting very stiff, but turns.

 

I sounds like a quick shot of WD-40:

 

- Pull the cap

- unscrew the refill

- aim at the top inside of the rim..NOT down the tube meant to hold the refill.

 

Right?

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Hi, I would loosen the mechanism with WD-40 like this (photo).

Leave it to stand for a few hours, or overnight. Repeat if not turning.

But keep in mind that WD-40 isn't an oil, and will be dried out after a few days or so.

I would put in a 1 or 2 of drops (no more) of 3-in-1 oil or a similar multi-purpose oil.

(The WD of 'WD-40' means Water displacement. i.e. not oil.)

* You can return it to Cross Service dept, they will do a good job under the lifetime guarantee.

Edited by Mike 59
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* You can return it to Cross Service dept, they will do a good job under the lifetime guarantee.

 

Only problem I have with returning an old Century to them is they may say it can't be fixed and want

to replace it with a modern one..which isn't quite the same. I have wedged lead pencil Century with

the same dilemma...I don't want them to replace it with a modern Century "switch-it" lead pencil

refill-converter-thing.. I would like the pencil repaired in true sense of the word.

 

Dis-assembling an old Century and lubricating it as a repair would be great.

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I have found that with 60s-70s Cross ballpoints in gold filled that Cross service fixed my pens and did not replace them.

 

I think that with some of these pens and pencils the nose cone unscrews and the guts can be knocked out, or just better access offered for lubing the works. It's hard to get them off without scarring them, though. Possibly heat from a hair dryer might help. I have taken the older pens apart, but never actually reassembled one.

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--Sign in a bar and grill, Ormond Beach, Florida, 1960.

 

 

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Hi rminj, With the jammed lead, can you push the broken bits out with a similar diameter piano wire?

Not really familiar with Cross mechanisms in pencils, but you might be able to push the lead up or down

and clear it. Piano wire is available in hobby shops under the name of 'K&S', and is used for model aircraft and

similar. It is sold in AWG thicknesses, so 14AWG is 1/16 inch. You will need a thinner gauge than that, something like

18AWG. Of course, you could take the pencil and try the various wire gauges in it, you can buy 1ft lengths, and it's going to cost well under £0.50 or US $1. Not sure if that helps!

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Hi everyone,

I found FPN and this thread while searching for the answer to I what I'm learning is an age old topic with Cross Ballpoints. Great site by the way!

I had just found what looks like an older 14k pen and case and the pen was jammed tight. Taking some of the advise from this

thread I was able to free it up. I have a heat gun that puts out 650˚f. Being careful not to get the pen too hot (I don't know if

there are any rubber or plastic seals in there), I heated it up while holding it in a towel to a point where it was just too hot to the touch.

The mechanics started to move slightly, so I gave it a little help with a bit of WD-40 and some compressed air to help work it in.

A little more heating and twisting and now it works great. It's almost as smooth as a similar pen that belonged to my Grandfather that was from

the late 1970's. I'm reluctant to add any oil at this point. Not knowing what kind of lube is in there, although a type of grease makes the most sense,

I don't know the effect of mixing it with a different type of lube would bring in the long run. I thought about adding just a touch of kerosene. It's a great grease cleaner and my thought is that it might loosen up and mix the dry grease up enough to make it fluid again. If the pen jams up again I'll have to go to the next step, but I'll probably experiment on another Cross that isn't in such nice a shape.

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I just wanted to mention that when I sent things in to Cross for repair, they ask on the repair form if the item has sentimental value.

Don't you wish we could use our pens to write on the Fountain Pen Network Fora?

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I just wanted to mention that when I sent things in to Cross for repair, they ask on the repair form if the item has sentimental value.

 

That's good to know.... I've been hesitant to send them some oldies.

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Hi jokiing, I don't know what Cross use in these twist mechanisms, it's thicker than 3-in-1, or it would just run out.

There is a product made for fan bearings which is a white paste, and is designed to last for years, but unless you can get the mechanism out of the barrel, it won't be possible to use it.

When I have had Computer fans dry out, in the bearing, I used 3-in-1 multi purpose oil, and then filed a graphite pencil into it.

Not much quantity was needed, say 1 square inch on a plastic surface.

I just used a sheet of sandpaper and sanded the pencil graphite above the oil till it was thick enough, then mixed it up with a screwdriver.

The graphite is a good 'oil' anyway, and the 3-in-1 just gets it down the side of the barrel. It works for fan bearings and they spin at a very high speed, so in a pen it ought to work. I would go easy on the amount of oil used, but it wouldn't be in the tube where the lead is held, so shouldn't leak out. That's what I would do, but sending it in to Cross is obviously one answer.

I have also heard they won't just replace a pen without asking, of course many are very old and have great meaning that a new one cannot have.

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Thanks for the tip. I like the idea of adding the graphite. I have powered graphite that's used for sticky locks. It comes in a plastic tube that

you just squeeze and spray into the key hole. Of course the oil would be necessary to get it down the narrow space in the barrel.

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  • 2 months later...

I think that with some of these pens and pencils the nose cone unscrews and the guts can be knocked out, or just better access offered for lubing the works. It's hard to get them off without scarring them, though. Possibly heat from a hair dryer might help. I have taken the older pens apart, but never actually reassembled one.

 

exactly as stated by pajaro:

 

One can see that the previous owner scarred cone when screwing. So I had it easy now.

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I realize I'm a bit late to this particular party, but here's an experiment I tried:

 

I have a very nice 12k gold bp/mp set that I received as a gift roughly 35 years ago. Have never used them much, but once in a while I'll check them and they still (as of about a month ago) still move smoothly.

 

About a year ago, I got as part of a "package" a nice Cross Century Chrome bp with, as so many Cross pens have, a corporate logo attached to the clip. The "movement" was pretty rough. Just to see, I carried the pen- either in my shirt pocket or coat pocket (truth to tell, due to the logo, mostly in the inner coat pocket),and after about three days or so, I noticed the mechanism became much more fluid; not quite what you'd expect from a Cross, but certainly much better than I found it.

 

My original bp/mp set never got used much, and has always been kept in the original box. I can't speak as to how the chrome bp was used or kept before I got it, but here's my thought for what it's worth:

 

The "grease" that smooths the movement of the pen, like most all lubricants, eventually dries out. However, sometimes a bit of natural body warmth might be what's needed to loosen the "grease" enough to get it to function pretty much as it was meant to do.

 

Hope this helps.

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headsmack.gif i used

XERAMIC® X40 CERAMIC MULTI SPRAY (because WD40 was in car, but this at home)

and pen jamed up

wallbash.gifgaah.gif Good thet i get this pen for free.

General maintenance lubricant with high-tech ceramic material for optimal and long-life protection. The ceramic material resists high temperatures and lubricates under all extreme circumstances. It has excellent water-resistance, great penetrating characteristics and sticks to any surface. Protects against corrosion and preserves rubber parts. For lubrication and protection of bearings, ball bearings, cables etc.

Humans don't have "can do " or "can't do " attitude. What humans have is "should I " or "should I not " attitude !

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  • 5 weeks later...

I actually had an older one come apart, the entire inside mechanism came up the top of the pen.

The twist mechanism inside is actually a large spiral groove or thread. I was really surprised

how coarse the thread/screw was...maybe 3 twist to it if that. It had a black grease in it (graphite?).

 

I pushed the mechanism back in and my wife has been using the pen so I'm not sure I can go disassembling it

again..

 

I agree with the above posts...the twist mechanism appears presed into the pen body..it doesn't seem to

screw together. In theory one should be able to grab outside body with one hand and the silver refill

area with the other and pull it apart. But I don't think the above pen I have is as solidly together

now as a new pen.

 

 

yea, my 1/20 14K ct G.F. CROSS BALLPEN , MADE IN IRELAND, with a company's logo as souvenir given to me in 1986 also has the same problem. In fact, I kept it in my locked drawer without using it at all, then after about 2 decades, I took it out and rotated the original dried refill out, suddenly the whole twisting mechanism (the copper swivel threaded thing) came out, I could not fix it back ie.when I wish to rotate the refill tip back into the pen barrel, it cannot click into position. I can still use it but feel not so comfy because each time after writing, I have to rotate the refill tip back into the pen barrel very slowly. DOES ANYBODY HERE KNOW HOW TO FIX THAT TWISTING MECHANISM ? thanks

Edited by gemgemhk
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  • 6 months later...

Has anyone tried using sewing machine oil instead of WD40 and 3 in 1 oil?

If so, please share your results.

I have a few prized keepsakes that need to be fixed and the last time ... I sent a rose flower 14K gold clipless cap in to Cross for repair; they sent me back a new black pen with a clip instead ... I am not doing that again. It was a graduation gift, sigh. :sick: :mad:

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