Non Working Waterman Pencil

[Surnia]

Good Evening Waterman forumers!

 

So a couple of weeks ago I picked up a pen and pencil set from Brian Anderson, and the pencil does not work. I have rehosted the image here:

http://i213.photobucket.com/albums/cc122/CxTPB/Pens%20and%20Inks/w2mp.jpg

http://i213.photobucket.com/albums/cc122/CxTPB/Pens%20and%20Inks/w2o.jpg

 

The set says Waterman's Made in The United States of America.

 

I'm Just curious as to what the fountain pen is, and how I would go about disassembling or repairing the pencil (the pencil won't work, mechanism is stuck extended)

 

Thanks for your help!

[brettttt]

Surnia,

 

 

In the 1947 catalog it's called the Stalwart. I happen to have come across my own set like this last night; I tested the nib and was so smitten that I inked it and am carrying it today.

 

I'm afraid I can't tell you much about the pencil, since I don't usually use old pencils. I tore mine apart last night to see whether the little gap between the top and bottom pieces was intentional--seemed to be, and your pic seems to have a similar gap, so that's some relief. After I saw that there wasn't any lead in it I didn't go any farther testing it. To disassemble, I first pulled the top (eraser end) off. That took a fair amount of force--pretty tight fit. Then I unscrewed the chromed tip on the writing end, which freed the works.

 

Good luck. I find the Waterman's swirly celluloid from this period really attractive--sort of subtle and warm--and the pen points are often really flexible. If you discover anything useful about getting the pencil to work, please post; maybe I'll get inspired to start carrying one of those, too.

 

Best regards,

Brett

[jbb]

I've gotten a number of vintage mechanical pencils to work by pushing a straight pin into the nozzle. In a sense forcing the mechanism to move again. I don't know if this is considered a bad thing to do... but it's worked. Old pencil lead debris often accumulated in the nozzle.

[Surnia]

Thanks Brettttt (its 5 Ts right?) and jbb, I pulled the pencil apart.. no eraser to be found, but the entire internal mechanism pulled out of the front (instead of the back). I found that the lead pushing portion has a piece of metal sticking out, preventing it from retracting further into the body... would it be wise to clip this small bit off?

 

I'm just going to dip test the pen nib, I got it for my mother's birthday, but that isn't until August (little pre-emptive, but I didn't want to miss such a good looking pen!)

[jbb]

Thanks Brettttt (its 5 Ts right?) and jbb, I pulled the pencil apart.. no eraser to be found, but the entire internal mechanism pulled out of the front (instead of the back). I found that the lead pushing portion has a piece of metal sticking out, preventing it from retracting further into the body... would it be wise to clip this small bit off?

 

I'm just going to dip test the pen nib, I got it for my mother's birthday, but that isn't until August (little pre-emptive, but I didn't want to miss such a good looking pen!)

I'm pretty sure that little metal bit is supposed to be there to grab the lead... and I think most mechanical pencils have that. The mechanism just needs to be made to retract.

[Surnia]

Thanks Brettttt (its 5 Ts right?) and jbb, I pulled the pencil apart.. no eraser to be found, but the entire internal mechanism pulled out of the front (instead of the back). I found that the lead pushing portion has a piece of metal sticking out, preventing it from retracting further into the body... would it be wise to clip this small bit off?

 

I'm just going to dip test the pen nib, I got it for my mother's birthday, but that isn't until August (little pre-emptive, but I didn't want to miss such a good looking pen!)

I'm pretty sure that little metal bit is supposed to be there to grab the lead... and I think most mechanical pencils have that. The mechanism just needs to be made to retract.

 

it sucks when your room is too dark to get good photos. I meant that the retracting bit, on the little sled that gets caught and retracts. On the side bit where the mechanism gets caught by the screw, there's a small portion of metal that's protruding out and prevents it from re-entering the rest of the body, it gets caught and won't go any further. I'll try to get a photo up by the end of the week, I have a midterm this friday...

[jonveley]

Thanks Brettttt (its 5 Ts right?) and jbb, I pulled the pencil apart.. no eraser to be found, but the entire internal mechanism pulled out of the front (instead of the back). I found that the lead pushing portion has a piece of metal sticking out, preventing it from retracting further into the body... would it be wise to clip this small bit off?

 

Later Watermans had the "propel-repel-expel" mechanism. When the mechanism is advanced all the way forward, a push rod extends through the lead holder and "expels" the part of the lead that was in the holder so that a fresh lead can be inserted. What you see is the mechanism advanced all the way forward.

 

What often happens is that when the mechanism is advanced all the way forward, then cranked even further, the internal tabs skip the end of the screw and get stuck. Usually, I use the end of a large paper clip (which is close to the size of the 1.1mm lead) and apply pressure to the expel rod while turning the mechanism backward. Usually, the tab will catch the screw and retract, then a new piece of lead can be inserted and it will work fine. If it doesn't, the cranking has probably broken off the tab and will necessitate disassembling the mechanism.

 

Clipping the expel rod is the equivalent of declawing a cat. Might look a little better, but she won't have any traction.

 

As for the gap, plastic shrinkage causes the plastic to recede from the brass or steel liner inside (very prevalent on Sheaffer balance pencils). I usually remove the top and the mechanism and file down the metal that protrudes beyond the plastic, eliminating the gap when the pencil is reassembled.