Jump to content

Learning Copperplate...


smk

Recommended Posts

This quotation from E A Lupfer is from "The Zanerian Manual of Alphabets and Engrossing". It seems entirely appropriate to post it on this thread.

It was written with a Gillott 404 nib at an x height of 7mm.

 

caliken

 

 

http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd289/caliken_2007/Lupfer600.jpg

Edited by caliken
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 1.3k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

  • smk

    217

  • caliken

    159

  • fuchsiaprincess

    143

  • sniper910

    69

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Salman and Ken : :notworthy1: :notworthy1: :notworthy1:

 

Thank you so much for sharing!

http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y331/fuchsiaprincess/Fuchsiaprincess_0001.jpg http://fc02.deviantart.net/fs71/f/2010/036/2/2/Narnia_Flag_by_Narnia14.gif

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Very beautiful Ken, as usual!!

 

Thanks salman. Seems like it's been so long. Sorry of you've mentioned this before, but is that a fountain or dip pen you're using? I thought dip pen but for some reason your scan looks like a fountain pen. Also, i'm still working on consistency and finer hairlines. What x height were your examples written at?

Edited by sniper910
Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

Sorry of you've mentioned this before, but is that a fountain or dip pen you're using? I thought dip pen but for some reason your scan looks like a fountain pen. Also, i'm still working on consistency and finer hairlines. What x height were your examples written at?

 

 

I used a Leonardt Principal EF nib in an oblique holder and Walnut ink for this example. The paper isn't that good and allows a little feathering as you can see at the larger size in this scan. Its not really noticeable to the naked eye though and is fine for practice.

 

The x-height was 1 cm using the guidelines linked above.

 

Salman

 

ps. I'll see if I can do one on better paper that shows the guide lines better.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

salman, i don't know why this didn't happen til now, but i never noticed your blog before. the holders and your artwork is beautiful!!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks a lot Salman, I can't wait for the weekend to try it out.

 

Also, what paper is ideal to use? I use Sennelier Calligraphy paper, but as you could saw on the practice sheet, the tip of my Zebra G (not Nikko, mistook them in the previous post...) was catching on the upstrokes quite a lot.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Howdy folks!

 

Sorry I haven't posted in a while, I've been busy going over to visit Piper, my "new" granddaughter (8 days old, ha!). She is a little blessing, and has gotten me distracted (in a good way) as of late.

 

Here's a little practice I did during lunch break at work the other day. Unfortunately, I did not have my dip nibs or the fabulous oblique holders that Sumi sent to me, so I did this with a Namiki Falcon SF nib with Waterman black ink on some nice old-fashioned bond typing paper.

 

Looking back at it critically, I can still see some issues with letter slant, "sharp" loops, etc. But the overall effect is getting better, compared to where I was a few months back...

 

Thanks again for all the inspiration from contributors of this thread!

 

Brian

 

fpn_1322090976__gw_quote.jpg

Edited by gibsona9
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Also, what paper is ideal to use? I use Sennelier Calligraphy paper, but as you could saw on the practice sheet, the tip of my Zebra G (not Nikko, mistook them in the previous post...) was catching on the upstrokes quite a lot.

 

The paper should be o.k. Zebra G and Nikko G are both very smooth nibs and highly unlikely to catch on the upstroke unless some pressure is applied. There needs to be zero, not almost but actually zero, pressure on the upstroke.

 

The paper I use for pactice is regular inkjet paper from Malaysia and its not the smoothest of surfaces. The Nikko G nibs glide smoothly over it but the Leonardt Principal EF reminds me I'm not as light handed as I should be from time to time. Ken recommends Mondi IQ Selection in 100 GSM. I have the same paper in 120 GSM and find it really nice too.

 

Salman

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Also, what paper is ideal to use? I use Sennelier Calligraphy paper, but as you could saw on the practice sheet, the tip of my Zebra G (not Nikko, mistook them in the previous post...) was catching on the upstrokes quite a lot.

 

The paper should be o.k. Zebra G and Nikko G are both very smooth nibs and highly unlikely to catch on the upstroke unless some pressure is applied. There needs to be zero, not almost but actually zero, pressure on the upstroke.

 

The paper I use for pactice is regular inkjet paper from Malaysia and its not the smoothest of surfaces. The Nikko G nibs glide smoothly over it but the Leonardt Principal EF reminds me I'm not as light handed as I should be from time to time. Ken recommends Mondi IQ Selection in 100 GSM. I have the same paper in 120 GSM and find it really nice too.

 

Salman

 

Hi Ken,

 

May I please ask when you ordered the Mondi IQ paper from? I have yet to find an online retailer who would ship to Australia.

 

Thank you!

 

Regards,

Soki

http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y331/fuchsiaprincess/Fuchsiaprincess_0001.jpg http://fc02.deviantart.net/fs71/f/2010/036/2/2/Narnia_Flag_by_Narnia14.gif

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Roundhand masters and newcomers alike are contributing beautiful work to this thread. It's a pleasure to see your work!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

May I please ask when you ordered the Mondi IQ paper from? I have yet to find an online retailer who would ship to Australia.

Soki

I get my Mondi paper here

 

Great paper...and great price!

 

Ken

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Also, what paper is ideal to use? I use Sennelier Calligraphy paper, but as you could saw on the practice sheet, the tip of my Zebra G (not Nikko, mistook them in the previous post...) was catching on the upstrokes quite a lot.

 

The paper should be o.k. Zebra G and Nikko G are both very smooth nibs and highly unlikely to catch on the upstroke unless some pressure is applied. There needs to be zero, not almost but actually zero, pressure on the upstroke.

 

The paper I use for pactice is regular inkjet paper from Malaysia and its not the smoothest of surfaces. The Nikko G nibs glide smoothly over it but the Leonardt Principal EF reminds me I'm not as light handed as I should be from time to time. Ken recommends Mondi IQ Selection in 100 GSM. I have the same paper in 120 GSM and find it really nice too.

 

Salman

 

Hi Ken,

 

May I please ask when you ordered the Mondi IQ paper from? I have yet to find an online retailer who would ship to Australia.

 

Thank you!

 

Regards,

Soki

 

Oops! Sorry, this question was meant for Salman.

http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y331/fuchsiaprincess/Fuchsiaprincess_0001.jpg http://fc02.deviantart.net/fs71/f/2010/036/2/2/Narnia_Flag_by_Narnia14.gif

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

Hi Ken,

 

May I please ask when you ordered the Mondi IQ paper from? I have yet to find an online retailer who would ship to Australia.

 

Thank you!

 

Regards,

Soki

 

Oops! Sorry, this question was meant for Salman.

 

Soki, I just stumbled on it in a retail store in Dubai. The only weight they had was 120 gsm so I picked up a ream to play with. Its a very nice and stable paper but just a bit too white. The 100 gsm variant should be perfect for practice.

 

I started my Copperplate practice with a pad of Daler Rowney Simply Marker Pad. Its 70 gsm and thin enough for the printed guidelines to show through the page. Its not good for broad nib work but very nice for Copperplate. I'm going to pick up a couple the next time I run into it.

 

I am lucky to have run into some Indonesian paper (called PPC, 80 gsm) that holds up ok to most inks with Copperplate. The ream is marked bluish white, which it is, but its not too bright.

 

I haven't found any online retailers for paper simply because I haven't looked for them. I'll keep my eyes open and let you know if I find any.

 

Salman

Edited by smk
Link to comment
Share on other sites

May I please ask when you ordered the Mondi IQ paper from? I have yet to find an online retailer who would ship to Australia.

Soki

I get my Mondi paper here

 

Great paper...and great price!

 

Ken

 

Thank you very much, Ken! Unfortunately, they don't ship outside of the UK :(

 

Warm regards,

Soki

http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y331/fuchsiaprincess/Fuchsiaprincess_0001.jpg http://fc02.deviantart.net/fs71/f/2010/036/2/2/Narnia_Flag_by_Narnia14.gif

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have to say that the 10mm x-height really helped. The arches look delightful compared to those in 6mm. Thanks for the great suggestion.

 

I also have no more catching on the upstrokes, that was probably due to G being too pointy for me. I almost forgot how buttery smooth it is to write with the 66EF! It takes a while to get used to doing straight wide strokes, but the nib is great to work with.

 

Will post some work sheets again when I feel more confident about the results :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sorry for double posting, but somehow I couldn't find the edit button :/

 

Anyway, here's today practice. This sheet was preceded by two pages of pure arches.

 

http://www65.zippyshare.com/v/33727313/file.html

 

Thanks to Salman's great advice of going for 1cm x-height and using his sheet, the progress was really visible over the last three pages.

 

Any thoughts? Am I doing anything wrong?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Excellent practice sheet Oliwerko. I'm glad the 1cm x-height worked out for you.

 

The tops of the arches are smooth and consistent. There is a certain flow that is now visible in your practice. You should be pleased with these developments.

 

I see that you have a tendency to have the curved last stroke in 'm' and 'n' a little shorter than the straight stroke. This could either be turning up on too soon on the curved stroke or inadvertently making the straight strokes longer when retouching them (which is what I used to do.)

 

The shading could be a bit thicker but that's a matter of choice.

 

Salman

 

Edit: The 'Edit' option is only available for 24 hours after your post.

Edited by smk
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now







×
×
  • Create New...