Parker Challenger Repair Question

[publishing guy]

I'm a newbie to pen restoration and have just run across a Parker Challenger and can't quite figure out the inner workings. It has a button fill and I have freed up the button itself with just a little soaking, but I can't find anything in "da Book" about what's inside. I assume it has some sort of a sac, but there is nothing on the nipple. Can anyone talk me through how I determine whether the pen is working and what to do if it isn't? Does this require a special sac? Is this typically a complicated repair? Thanks for any help

[Beechwood]

I'm a newbie to pen restoration and have just run across a Parker Challenger and can't quite figure out the inner workings. It has a button fill and I have freed up the button itself with just a little soaking, but I can't find anything in "da Book" about what's inside. I assume it has some sort of a sac, but there is nothing on the nipple. Can anyone talk me through how I determine whether the pen is working and what to do if it isn't? Does this require a special sac? Is this typically a complicated repair? Thanks for any help

 

 

This link may help

 

http://munsonpens.wordpress.com/2007/12/29/janesville-wisconsin-button-fill/

[MontMozart]

Parker button fillers are not too complicated of a repair and a Challenger is a good one to start with....

1. Remove the button...I use a pair of cutoff pliers, I put the teeth underneath the button top, squeeze very lightly and pull it out, sometimes it is tight and you have to wiggle a little, but usually you can get it out. Don't wiggle too much or you can crack the blind cap screw part.

 

2. Next pull the filling bar out through the hole that the removal of the button created. Again, usually not too hard, but if it is stuck to a petrified sac, it could get tricky.

 

3. Remove the section. This is the toughest part of pen restoration and most dangerous. I believe Challengers have a friction fit section and not a screw in. Here is where you have to gently heat the barrel where the section goes into the barrel. Do this gently because you don't want to melt the plastic. Heat it for a bit and get some spark plug pliers or section pliers and very, very gently try and wiggle the section out. I believe if the section is shellaced in, you will have to get the plastic to about 180 degrees... just take your time here, add a little heat and wiggle, add a little more and wiggle. If you wiggle too hard, you will crack your barrel, so go easy. If you have "Da Blue Book", it has tips on how to remove sections.

 

4. Once the section is lose, soak it in a cup of water to loosen all the dried ink in it.

 

5. Now you have to work and remove the old sac which is probably petrified by now, I use dental picks...some modified. Again, go easy, if the sac is really in there, you have to scrap and scrap and pull and pull, this can take some time, but be patient.

 

6. You will need to size your sac to put in the pen. Usually I will slip it in there, allow some room for the section nipple and cut the end off. I know you want to make it as long as possible, but be careful, if you leave it too long it will get mangled when you insert it after it is attached to the section.

 

7. Shellac the freshly cut sac to the section. After you slip it on the nipple, rotate it a little to make sure you get a nice even distribution of shellac. Let it dry.

 

8. Slip the section back in the barrel, again be patient. If the barrel has cooled (which I am sure it has), it might have reshrunk, so you might have to heat it a little again. If it is a lose fit, you might have to shellac the section back in. I try to avoid this so it will be easier to dis-assembly in the future...but if it is too lose, you will have to do it. Before inserting the section you can talcum powder the outside of the sac to help it not stick to the filler bar.

 

9. Now re-insert the filler bar. Make sure you get it along side of sac and that you don't just push the sac down with it. After the button is in place, replace the button. Some Parker filler bars go inside the button and some go along side. If it goes along side the top of the filler bar will have little rounded part that goes on the outside of the lip of blind cap screw part.

 

You are ready to write...fill it some of your favorite ink and go to town.

 

One other big thing, is if the nib is and feed is filled with a lot of gunk, if this is the case, you will need to remove the feed and nib...I won't go into that, but it is in the DaBlueBook.

 

A button filler is very similar to a lever filler, so reread that section of the DaBlueBook.

 

Good luck, have fun and be patient...very...very patient.

[watch_art]

I think 180 degrees is too high. If I recall correctly, 140 is closer. Be careful.

[publishing guy]

Parker button fillers are not too complicated of a repair and a Challenger is a good one to start with....

1. Remove the button...I use a pair of cutoff pliers, I put the teeth underneath the button top, squeeze very lightly and pull it out, sometimes it is tight and you have to wiggle a little, but usually you can get it out. Don't wiggle too much or you can crack the blind cap screw part.

 

2. Next pull the filling bar out through the hole that the removal of the button created. Again, usually not too hard, but if it is stuck to a petrified sac, it could get tricky.

 

3. Remove the section. This is the toughest part of pen restoration and most dangerous. I believe Challengers have a friction fit section and not a screw in. Here is where you have to gently heat the barrel where the section goes into the barrel. Do this gently because you don't want to melt the plastic. Heat it for a bit and get some spark plug pliers or section pliers and very, very gently try and wiggle the section out. I believe if the section is shellaced in, you will have to get the plastic to about 180 degrees... just take your time here, add a little heat and wiggle, add a little more and wiggle. If you wiggle too hard, you will crack your barrel, so go easy. If you have "Da Blue Book", it has tips on how to remove sections.

 

4. Once the section is lose, soak it in a cup of water to loosen all the dried ink in it.

 

5. Now you have to work and remove the old sac which is probably petrified by now, I use dental picks...some modified. Again, go easy, if the sac is really in there, you have to scrap and scrap and pull and pull, this can take some time, but be patient.

 

6. You will need to size your sac to put in the pen. Usually I will slip it in there, allow some room for the section nipple and cut the end off. I know you want to make it as long as possible, but be careful, if you leave it too long it will get mangled when you insert it after it is attached to the section.

 

7. Shellac the freshly cut sac to the section. After you slip it on the nipple, rotate it a little to make sure you get a nice even distribution of shellac. Let it dry.

 

8. Slip the section back in the barrel, again be patient. If the barrel has cooled (which I am sure it has), it might have reshrunk, so you might have to heat it a little again. If it is a lose fit, you might have to shellac the section back in. I try to avoid this so it will be easier to dis-assembly in the future...but if it is too lose, you will have to do it. Before inserting the section you can talcum powder the outside of the sac to help it not stick to the filler bar.

 

9. Now re-insert the filler bar. Make sure you get it along side of sac and that you don't just push the sac down with it. After the button is in place, replace the button. Some Parker filler bars go inside the button and some go along side. If it goes along side the top of the filler bar will have little rounded part that goes on the outside of the lip of blind cap screw part.

 

You are ready to write...fill it some of your favorite ink and go to town.

 

One other big thing, is if the nib is and feed is filled with a lot of gunk, if this is the case, you will need to remove the feed and nib...I won't go into that, but it is in the DaBlueBook.

 

A button filler is very similar to a lever filler, so reread that section of the DaBlueBook.

 

Good luck, have fun and be patient...very...very patient.

[publishing guy]

Thanks a million. That, along with the photo link above should get the job done. The sac is simply a conventional sac with the pressure bar alongside it then?

Parker button fillers are not too complicated of a repair and a Challenger is a good one to start with....

1. Remove the button...I use a pair of cutoff pliers, I put the teeth underneath the button top, squeeze very lightly and pull it out, sometimes it is tight and you have to wiggle a little, but usually you can get it out. Don't wiggle too much or you can crack the blind cap screw part.

 

2. Next pull the filling bar out through the hole that the removal of the button created. Again, usually not too hard, but if it is stuck to a petrified sac, it could get tricky.

 

3. Remove the section. This is the toughest part of pen restoration and most dangerous. I believe Challengers have a friction fit section and not a screw in. Here is where you have to gently heat the barrel where the section goes into the barrel. Do this gently because you don't want to melt the plastic. Heat it for a bit and get some spark plug pliers or section pliers and very, very gently try and wiggle the section out. I believe if the section is shellaced in, you will have to get the plastic to about 180 degrees... just take your time here, add a little heat and wiggle, add a little more and wiggle. If you wiggle too hard, you will crack your barrel, so go easy. If you have "Da Blue Book", it has tips on how to remove sections.

 

4. Once the section is lose, soak it in a cup of water to loosen all the dried ink in it.

 

5. Now you have to work and remove the old sac which is probably petrified by now, I use dental picks...some modified. Again, go easy, if the sac is really in there, you have to scrap and scrap and pull and pull, this can take some time, but be patient.

 

6. You will need to size your sac to put in the pen. Usually I will slip it in there, allow some room for the section nipple and cut the end off. I know you want to make it as long as possible, but be careful, if you leave it too long it will get mangled when you insert it after it is attached to the section.

 

7. Shellac the freshly cut sac to the section. After you slip it on the nipple, rotate it a little to make sure you get a nice even distribution of shellac. Let it dry.

 

8. Slip the section back in the barrel, again be patient. If the barrel has cooled (which I am sure it has), it might have reshrunk, so you might have to heat it a little again. If it is a lose fit, you might have to shellac the section back in. I try to avoid this so it will be easier to dis-assembly in the future...but if it is too lose, you will have to do it. Before inserting the section you can talcum powder the outside of the sac to help it not stick to the filler bar.

 

9. Now re-insert the filler bar. Make sure you get it along side of sac and that you don't just push the sac down with it. After the button is in place, replace the button. Some Parker filler bars go inside the button and some go along side. If it goes along side the top of the filler bar will have little rounded part that goes on the outside of the lip of blind cap screw part.

 

You are ready to write...fill it some of your favorite ink and go to town.

 

One other big thing, is if the nib is and feed is filled with a lot of gunk, if this is the case, you will need to remove the feed and nib...I won't go into that, but it is in the DaBlueBook.

 

A button filler is very similar to a lever filler, so reread that section of the DaBlueBook.

 

Good luck, have fun and be patient...very...very patient.

[philm]

The sac is simply a conventional sac with the pressure bar alongside it then?

This is correct and it just fits right on the end of the section, as with any lever filler. I believe that these take a 16.

Let us know how it turns out!

Phil

[MontMozart]

Yeah, I believe I used a 16 for all of mine...this is by far the most common size sac that you will use.

 

One thing to make sure of is that you scrap the petrified sac off the nipple on the section. A lot of times, it will crack right off and you can barely tell that the old sac is still on there. Usually, if you down the section (like you are looking down the feed, you will see concentric circles around the feed...you will see the old petrified sac around the section, then you will see the section, then the feed. Usually I use a razor blade and scrap this sac away, be careful and don't scrap too hard or you will start taking away the section, which will make a tight fit of the sac a little tougher. Once you start scraping with the razor, little chucks of the old sac will start coming off and eventually you will see the section...from that point on, you kind of just chip the old sac away.

 

Good luck once again.

[j-e-g]

Parker button fillers are not too complicated of a repair and a Challenger is a good one to start with....

1. Remove the button...I use a pair of cutoff pliers, I put the teeth underneath the button top, squeeze very lightly and pull it out, sometimes it is tight and you have to wiggle a little, but usually you can get it out. Don't wiggle too much or you can crack the blind cap screw part.

 

2. Next pull the filling bar out through the hole that the removal of the button created. Again, usually not too hard, but if it is stuck to a petrified sac, it could get tricky.

 

3. Remove the section. This is the toughest part of pen restoration and most dangerous. I believe Challengers have a friction fit section and not a screw in. Here is where you have to gently heat the barrel where the section goes into the barrel. Do this gently because you don't want to melt the plastic. Heat it for a bit and get some spark plug pliers or section pliers and very, very gently try and wiggle the section out. I believe if the section is shellaced in, you will have to get the plastic to about 180 degrees... just take your time here, add a little heat and wiggle, add a little more and wiggle. If you wiggle too hard, you will crack your barrel, so go easy. If you have "Da Blue Book", it has tips on how to remove sections.

 

4. Once the section is lose, soak it in a cup of water to loosen all the dried ink in it.

 

5. Now you have to work and remove the old sac which is probably petrified by now, I use dental picks...some modified. Again, go easy, if the sac is really in there, you have to scrap and scrap and pull and pull, this can take some time, but be patient.

 

6. You will need to size your sac to put in the pen. Usually I will slip it in there, allow some room for the section nipple and cut the end off. I know you want to make it as long as possible, but be careful, if you leave it too long it will get mangled when you insert it after it is attached to the section.

 

7. Shellac the freshly cut sac to the section. After you slip it on the nipple, rotate it a little to make sure you get a nice even distribution of shellac. Let it dry.

 

8. Slip the section back in the barrel, again be patient. If the barrel has cooled (which I am sure it has), it might have reshrunk, so you might have to heat it a little again. If it is a lose fit, you might have to shellac the section back in. I try to avoid this so it will be easier to dis-assembly in the future...but if it is too lose, you will have to do it. Before inserting the section you can talcum powder the outside of the sac to help it not stick to the filler bar.

 

9. Now re-insert the filler bar. Make sure you get it along side of sac and that you don't just push the sac down with it. After the button is in place, replace the button. Some Parker filler bars go inside the button and some go along side. If it goes along side the top of the filler bar will have little rounded part that goes on the outside of the lip of blind cap screw part.

 

You are ready to write...fill it some of your favorite ink and go to town.

 

One other big thing, is if the nib is and feed is filled with a lot of gunk, if this is the case, you will need to remove the feed and nib...I won't go into that, but it is in the DaBlueBook.

 

A button filler is very similar to a lever filler, so reread that section of the DaBlueBook.

 

Good luck, have fun and be patient...very...very patient.

I know this is an old post... But thank you MontMozart and everyone for the information... You gave me the information and the confidence to give it a try. Thanks

MontMozart

[Bongopalms]

Since j-e-g brought this thread back to life less than a month ago, I thought I'd chime in.

 

I bought a Parker Challenger today ($ 8 US !!) which seems to only need a new sac. It wrote nicely, in the range of m - b with dip in some Noodlers. I'll clean the nib and feed soon, put a new sac on it and add it to my rotation

 

One thing about placing the section back in the barrel...

8. ... If it is a loose fit, you might have to shellac the section back in. I try to avoid this so it will be easier to dis-assembly in the future...but if it is too lose, you will have to do it. ...

 

Rather than shellacing the section back in, consider this. If you apply a layer of shellac to the section and allow it to dry before fitting the section back in the barrel, you won't be "gluing" in it. It might take a couple of coats. But if the shellac gets too thick, a little careful sanding will give you the perfect fit you want!

Edited May 19, 2017 by Bongopalms

[Ernst Bitterman]

Rather than shellacing the section back in, consider this. If you apply a layer of shellac to the section and allow it to dry before fitting the section back in the barrel, you won't be "gluing" in it. It might take a couple of coats. But if the shellac gets too thick, a little careful sanding will give you the perfect fit you want!

 

I'm repeating this merely for emphasis. It's a much better approach.

 

If one is driven to use some kind of adhesive to keep a section in place, the low-temperature Sheaffer-style resin-based stuff is less likely to make future repairs perilous for the pen.

[corgicoupe]

I'm repeating this merely for emphasis. It's a much better approach.

 

If one is driven to use some kind of adhesive to keep a section in place, the low-temperature Sheaffer-style resin-based stuff is less likely to make future repairs perilous for the pen.

Precisely what is this "stuff", Ernst?

[ac12]

 

 

Precisely what is this "stuff", Ernst?

 

It is probably the section sealant that Ron Zorn sells.

[Ernst Bitterman]

Yep. There's also instructions on Flounder's blog for make-your-own, if you're that way inclined.

[ColdDeadHand]

Great post, very helpful, thanks all around.

[Muncle]

Thanks for this post. I believe I was just handed a button-fill duofold this evening, your descriptions make the repair seem easy!

[Kuby]

Where can I purchase a new ink sack for the Parker Challenger? Thanks.

[mitto]

Where can I purchase a new ink sack for the Parker Challenger? Thanks.

From here:

 

https://www.vintagepensacsandparts.com/section.php/2/1/ink_sacs_for_fountain_pens

 

Or from here:

 

https://www.andersonpens.com/pen-sacs-s/1995.htm

 

Or from here:

 

http://www.pensacs.com/New%20Pages/catalog.html

 

Best.

Edited November 5, 2017 by mitto

[ScienTESOL]

Thank you to all those who gave their time and knowledge to reply to my enquiry. The person who queried whether the forepart is meant to unscrew, or pull apart, or rather is a permanently moulded part of the barrel, has given me cause to re-examine it, looking (for the manyeth time) for a hairline crack at the supposed junction — without success.

Ron Z has given me a warning that this is no job for amateurs, which is very true of me. I think if the pen mechanic retained by The Pen Shoppe in Australia cannot 'crack' (don't wince) it, it is better to use this lovely bit of kit as a dip pen, as I have been doing, and leave well alone.

Mine was a forlorn hope at best. Today (New Year's Eve) is the anniversary of my Dad's death, which is why this topic came to me.

Thank you, many times, to all those who responded so promptly.

Warm regards and best wishes to all for 2018.

Michael (ScienTESOL)