Macro Photography Of Pelikan Fountain Pen / Nib

[Tricky]

Below are some images of my Pelikan M600 Souveran with a custom Binder cursive italic nib (also a Mont Blanc for good measure).

 

Two pens - single frame at f/13, with focus on the cap. Depth of field reaches about 1/4 of the way down the cap, so to get the whole pen in focus, need to use a stack of images with different points of focus. Taken with a Canon 7D with an EF100 f/2.8 L IS macro lens.

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b79/Tricky999/Twopens_sm.jpg

 

Two pens - same subject and position, this time with a focus stack of 20 separate frames, each at f/10. Images combined using Zerene focus stacking software.

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b79/Tricky999/Pensfocusstack_sm.jpg

 

Pelikan M600 nib at 1x magnification - focus stack of 20 separate frames, each at f/7.1. Captured with a Canon 7D with an MPE-65mm macro lens and MT-24 twin lite macro flash, as are the other two images below.

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b79/Tricky999/Pelikannib1x_sm.jpg

 

Pelikan M600 nib at 2x magnification - focus stack of 16 separate frames, each at f/7.1. Unfortunately I got a nasty reflection despite using soft box lighting - should have re-captured the image at a different angle, but didn't realise until I'd packed up the kit. Also, should have used more frames, as there are some gaps where the focus is a bit soft. No prizes for guessing what colour ink I'm currently using - amazing how much gets caught in the nib engraving grooves despite wiping it down after its refill.

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b79/Tricky999/Pelikannib2x_sm.jpg

 

Pelikan M600 nib at 2x magnification - single frame at f/7.1, to demonstrate how shallow the depth of field is at this level of magnification, without resorting to focus stacking

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b79/Tricky999/Pelikannib2x_singleframe_sm.jpg

[bphollin]

Lovely images. I like the look of the well used nib!

[Bisquitlips]

I am ready to by my first DSLR camera very soon and a macro lense (not close up) will be a part of the purchase.

 

Thanks for posting these.

[wimg]

Tricky,

 

Could you please tell us what software you use for focus stacking, and maybe even explain how you go about it?

 

Thanks in advance!

 

Warm regards, Wim

[schadowrider]

Tricky,

 

Could you please tell us what software you use for focus stacking, and maybe even explain how you go about it?

 

Thanks in advance!

 

Warm regards, Wim

Sweet pics!

 

Here's a link I found to the Zerene focus stacking software Tricky mentioned that he was using in the OP; it looks very reasonably priced with a 30 day fully functional free trial available. I'd also love to hear more about the process (how easy is the software to use; how much time does it take to shoot and compile an image; etc.?); I imagine you have to have a VERY stable set-up to prevent any movement at all as you change focus across the 20 frames!

[Felix1]

I am ready to by my first DSLR camera very soon and a macro lense (not close up) will be a part of the purchase.

 

 

If you haven't run across it yet, you might find it helpful to spend some time in the Photomacrography forum. The discussions are more oriented toward photomicrography but there's still a lot of knowledgable folks using a standard Macro lens at 1x (life size on the sensor).

[1point1mm]

Some nice "Tricky" shots here!

[mdoering]

If you haven't run across it yet, you might find it helpful to spend some time in the Photomacrography forum.

 

You said I would spend "some time" there... not ALL my time! that's false advertising! Seriously I just spent hours (and hours) browsing that site...

 

 

That group is absolutely amazing, I am seriously in awe of the images these people are able to capture...

[SDB777]

Wouldn't a simpler method of backing up the camera to increase the depth of field yield the same results? Or possibly bump the f/stop to a smaller size, say f/22 or f/32? If you insist on using a 'sweet spot' in the f/stop range, you could get a distance using a DOF calculator. Link to the DOF calculator I use: >>>>>LINK<<<<<

 

Don't get me wrong, stacking multiple frames is alway cool. And your efforts look great, but at a price of how much time to take the mutliple exposures(and hope the camera didn't get bumped during the focusings)?

 

 

 

 

Scott (simpler is sometimes better) B

[Tricky]

Could you please tell us what software you use for focus stacking, and maybe even explain how you go about it?

 

 

I use Zerene focus stacking software and the process for focus stacking is basically:

 

- using a tripod with a sliding macro rail, line up the subject at the desired magnification

- take a photo where the focus is at the nearest extremity of the subject, at an optimal aperture for sharpness such as f/8

- move the macro rail a tiny fraction forward (or, if you've not got a rail, twist the focus ring a tiny fraction), so that the focus point has moved a tiny bit away from you down the length of the subject

- repeat step above until entire subject covered. This could be anything from 5 to 50 frames, depending on magnification and the subjects depth/angle

- Use Zerene stacker to combine all the images

- Use photoshop to tidy up the resulting image (there's always a few flaws).

 

Hope that helps! As Shadowrider noted, Zerene offer a free 30 day trial with full functionality, so give it a go with your favoutie pen!

[Tricky]

Wouldn't a simpler method of backing up the camera to increase the depth of field yield the same results? Or possibly bump the f/stop to a smaller size, say f/22 or f/32? If you insist on using a 'sweet spot' in the f/stop range, you could get a distance using a DOF calculator. Link to the DOF calculator I use: >>>>>LINK<<<<<

 

Don't get me wrong, stacking multiple frames is alway cool. And your efforts look great, but at a price of how much time to take the mutliple exposures(and hope the camera didn't get bumped during the focusings)?

 

Scott (simpler is sometimes better) B

 

Hi Scott - unfortunately, even with excellent light (or a flash or a tripod), despite using a small aperture such as f/16, with macro subjects you often can't get enough depth of field to get the entire subject in focus. And you don't want the aperture any smaller than f/16 as diffraction starts to set in, reducing image quality (you could go smaller with a full frame camera, but with a high-density cropped sensor, f/13 or f/16 is about as far as you can go before image quality falls away markedly). You could back away, but then the subject magnification decreases; you could offset this decrease by cropping into the picture, but then again you are reducing image quality by cropping...

 

If you look at the very first picture of the two pens, you can see that only a quarter of the pen is in focus, despite being at f/13. And that picture is not even macro, ie hardly any magnification at all... maybe 0.25x. As magnification gets higher, ie 1x and above, the depth of field becomes unbelievably small. For example, an MPE-65 has depth of field of just 2.2mm at f/16 at 1x magnification... and this drops to 0.27mm at f/16 at 5x magnification.

 

A further complication is that as magnification increases, the light going through a macro lens reduces significantly... so at a time when you need more light in order to increase DOF by using a smaller aperture, the lens is actually giving you less!

[Tricky]

I'd also love to hear more about the process (how easy is the software to use; how much time does it take to shoot and compile an image

 

Please see above It might take me 15-20min to set up my lighting equipment (softbox plus lights, plus tripod, camera etc) and then capture the actual series of images. The Zerene stacking software then might take 15min to process 20 frames, and then it might take me 15min to retouch an image and post-process it in photoshop. But if I'm doing a series of images, then I tend to work up some momentum and get through it a bit quicker!

 

 

I imagine you have to have a VERY stable set-up to prevent any movement at all as you change focus across the 20 frames!

 

Yes, a tripod is essential for focus stacking. You can sometimes combine 2 or 3 handheld images where you've reeled off a series in quick succession (eg an insect which won't stick around long enough to approach with a tripod), but this is quite hard to do and sometimes you're better off combining the images in photoshop.

 

In case you're interested, my set up is shown below, including the macro focus rail refered to in my post above and the sturdy tripod. The kit is an Canon 7D plus MPE 65mm f/2.8 specialist macro lens (basically a microscope ), accompanied by an MT-24 twin macro flash:

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b79/Tricky999/7DandMPE_1.jpg

 

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b79/Tricky999/7DandMPE_2.jpg

 

(at full extension, ie 5x)

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b79/Tricky999/7DandMPE_3.jpg

[wimg]

Could you please tell us what software you use for focus stacking, and maybe even explain how you go about it?

 

 

I use Zerene focus stacking software and the process for focus stacking is basically:

 

- using a tripod with a sliding macro rail, line up the subject at the desired magnification

- take a photo where the focus is at the nearest extremity of the subject, at an optimal aperture for sharpness such as f/8

- move the macro rail a tiny fraction forward (or, if you've not got a rail, twist the focus ring a tiny fraction), so that the focus point has moved a tiny bit away from you down the length of the subject

- repeat step above until entire subject covered. This could be anything from 5 to 50 frames, depending on magnification and the subjects depth/angle

- Use Zerene stacker to combine all the images

- Use photoshop to tidy up the resulting image (there's always a few flaws).

 

Hope that helps! As Shadowrider noted, Zerene offer a free 30 day trial with full functionality, so give it a go with your favoutie pen!

Thanks! My question was for the benefit of all people here, actually. I prefer to use a tilt-shift lens for this type of shot, although stacking obviously will give you even more DoF.

 

Warm regards, Wim

[eric47]

Thanks! My question was for the benefit of all people here, actually. I prefer to use a tilt-shift lens for this type of shot, although stacking obviously will give you even more DoF.

 

I knew/figured you were going say to that. Because, with the first two shots of the pens, you could get the same DoF of the 2d with a tilt-shift.

Edited September 15, 2010 by eric47

[wimg]

I'd also love to hear more about the process (how easy is the software to use; how much time does it take to shoot and compile an image

 

Please see above It might take me 15-20min to set up my lighting equipment (softbox plus lights, plus tripod, camera etc) and then capture the actual series of images. The Zerene stacking software then might take 15min to process 20 frames, and then it might take me 15min to retouch an image and post-process it in photoshop. But if I'm doing a series of images, then I tend to work up some momentum and get through it a bit quicker!

 

 

I imagine you have to have a VERY stable set-up to prevent any movement at all as you change focus across the 20 frames!

 

Yes, a tripod is essential for focus stacking. You can sometimes combine 2 or 3 handheld images where you've reeled off a series in quick succession (eg an insect which won't stick around long enough to approach with a tripod), but this is quite hard to do and sometimes you're better off combining the images in photoshop.

 

In case you're interested, my set up is shown below, including the macro focus rail refered to in my post above and the sturdy tripod. The kit is an Canon 7D plus MPE 65mm f/2.8 specialist macro lens (basically a microscope ), accompanied by an MT-24 twin macro flash:

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b79/Tricky999/7DandMPE_1.jpg

 

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b79/Tricky999/7DandMPE_2.jpg

 

(at full extension, ie 5x)

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b79/Tricky999/7DandMPE_3.jpg

This was a question by schadowrider, actually, so something went wrong with quoting here. Even so, interesting to see your set-up. I never actually tried to do any pen shots with the MP-E 65 yet.

 

I do have two questions for you:

1) Which macrofocus rail are you using here? Personally I own a simple Novoflex and a simple Manfrotto one, giving me a similar capacity (sideways and forwards/backwards) without spending too much , but I don't particularly know the one in your setup.

2) The lens hood for the MP-E, does that come with the MT-24, or did you buy it separately, and if so, where?

 

BTW, if you want even larger magnification with the MP-E, you should try an Extender. Works well with it .

 

http://lumifer.com/lumifer/images/fpngallery/large/purple_flower.jpg

 

Smokebush flower, a bit over 7X (5X plus 12 mm tube plus extender 1.4X), handheld - with flash obviously...

 

Warm regards, Wim

[Felix1]

Glad to see another Canon user, Tricky.

 

Fine setup you've got there.

 

And like you said, one needs a lot more light. I always start with a +2 exposure compensation as I approach 1:1 and sometimes have to go to +2½. Your diffraction discussion above f/16 is also right on the money.

[Tricky]

This was a question by schadowrider, actually, so something went wrong with quoting here.

 

Ooops! Probably something to do with me faffing around with the multi-quote system and not knowing what I'm doing! :embarrassed_smile:

 

 

I do have two questions for you:

1) Which macrofocus rail are you using here? Personally I own a simple Novoflex and a simple Manfrotto one, giving me a similar capacity (sideways and forwards/backwards) without spending too much , but I don't particularly know the one in your setup.

2) The lens hood for the MP-E, does that come with the MT-24, or did you buy it separately, and if so, where?

 

BTW, if you want even larger magnification with the MP-E, you should try an Extender. Works well with it .

 

I don't actually know the make of my macro rail, but it wasn't expensive. Bought it from an Australian store called Discount Digital Photoraphics for about $100. Works fine, though I've seen better made ones.

 

Re the MPE-65 lens hood, its actually sold as a separate part - link here: http://shop.usa.canon.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_10051_10051_211658_-1

They're pretty hard to get hold off internationally, but Canon Direct sell them in the US and B&H sometimes have them in stock (which is where I got mine). They're good in that they stop lens flare from the MT-24 at high magnification. They do, however, mean that you haven't got a lens cap, unless you unscrew the hood each time... after some testing, I found a 34mm lens cap on eBay that fitted perfect onto the front of the hood!

 

Love your photo of the smokebush flower - stunning!

 

I haven't tried it yet, but I do own both a 1.4x extender and Kenko tubes, so I will definitely be trying >5x magnification at some stage in the future! I haven't had the MPE all that long, so still enjoying just capturing images in the 2x to 5x range!

[stevejd64]

Tricky,

 

Could you please tell us what software you use for focus stacking, and maybe even explain how you go about it?

 

Thanks in advance!

 

Warm regards, Wim

 

 

Hi Wim,

Besides collecting FPs, one of my other interests is astronomical photography. One of the best software apps for stacking images is Registax.

The app can superimpose literally thousands of video frames of, say, a planet such as Jupiter, and optimize the final stacked image with wavelet technology. Registax would have no trouble stacking and optimizing a few pics taken of a stationary object such as a fountain pen.

 

Registax is free software and can be downloaded at: http://www.astronomie.be/registax/index.html

 

best regards,

Steve

[eric47]

Hi Wim,

Besides collecting FPs, one of my other interests is astronomical photography. One of the best software apps for stacking images is Registax.

The app can superimpose literally thousands of video frames of, say, a planet such as Jupiter, and optimize the final stacked image with wavelet technology. Registax would have no trouble stacking and optimizing a few pics taken of a stationary object such as a fountain pen.

 

Registax is free software and can be downloaded at: http://www.astronomi...stax/index.html

 

The downloads have .exe -- is this a Windows only program? Uggh, at least the Zerene program, while a paid app, can run native in OS X or Linux.

[Rabbit]

Is that Canon twin macro flash a big advantage over the less expensive ring macro flash? I really want a macro flash, but I'm more comfortable with the price of their ring flash. What will the twin macro flash give me that I won't be able to get from the ring flash?

 

--Stephen