Is Your Cn Nib Toothy? Scratchy?

[Ron2]

I got my first Pelikan today, a 100 in standard green marble with CN nib and gold plated clip/cap rings. I think it is from early 40s, but you experts will know better.

 

I like the deep green color of this one. The green ink-window, which is fairly clear, looks black in pics because pen is loaded with Pelikan BB. {Sorry for poor quality of pics}

 

Although I got it off fleabay, the pen is near mint condition, so I am very happy with what I got, and at a bargain price too (I think.) I was amazed. I looked under the loupe and it virtually has no dings, dents, or scratches. The gold plate has no noticeable brassing. There is a tiny bit on the clip ball that you can see only when using the loupe. On the piston knob, I first noticed what I thought was a long scratch. "Oh, Oh!!", I thought. But after closer look I noticed it was an arrow ----> showing which way to turn the knob.

 

Since the pen has personalization/inscription on the cap, I was hesitant to bid. But you know what? The beautifully stylized lettering and the green letters actually add a nice accent against the black cap, adding to the "vintage-ness". The "Gunther Wagner Pelikan" green is pretty worn off, but the top of cap is nice and green, and so is the "M" on the piston knob.

 

The only thing I can fault with is the nib. It is the scratchiest, toothiest nib I have. I am sure I can get that worked on, but was wondering if this sctachiness is a common characteristic of these nibs. Most likely this issue is limited to this nib and not to all in general. In spite of this, I love how the pen feels in my hand when capped. And it writes a nice, almost F line, so I am very happy, but that toothiness is, well...... I gotta do something about it.

 

Anyway, was just wondering about the toothy CN nib. What is your experience?

 

http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e362/tabijin/P1080097-1.jpg

http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e362/tabijin/P1080099.jpghttp://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e362/tabijin/P1080100.jpghttp://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e362/tabijin/P1080111.jpg

[philm]

Ron,

 

I have a 100N with a CN OB nib and it is very smooth. These wartime nibs are noted to be smooth. In looking at your photo of the nib it looks to be uneven, though I cant see for sure. If it is very scratchy, then it must be damaged in some way, as this is not the norm for these nibs,

 

Regards,

 

Phil

[Ron2]

In looking at your photo of the nib it looks to be uneven, though I cant see for sure. If it is very scratchy, then it must be damaged in some way, as this is not the norm for these nibs,

Thanks for the quick reply.

 

This is what I suspected too. The underside (writing side) is basically even, but the top of the points are slightly, oh so slightly, different lengths, with the left a teensy bit shorter, looking like an oblique nib. So, because of that, I should have figured that the problem is with my nib. Too bad that such a teensy difference is enough to ruin the feel. It's like a teensy piece of sand in one's eye. Even though it's a miniscule particle, it still is enough to cause pain that feels as if a boulder were in your eye.

 

Hummmm, maybe this pen wasn't such a bargain after all. I hope one of the the guys or gals running the pen clinic at the FP club can make it better. Otherwise, I'd need to find another nib, I suppose.

 

Lovely pen, though.

[Koyote]

Your nib is damaged.

[mr goldfink]

it looks like the irridium tip has been snapped off so a new nib may be required

[specialk0449]

I agree with philm. I have a CN OB nib on one of my 100's and it is a very smooth writer. My advice is have it checked out by someone who is very knowledgeable about nibs. I enjoy using my 100's. They are among my favorites.

[Rick Propas]

A good CN nib should write every bit as well as a gold nib. That nib needs to be tuned or replaced

[Zonnelied]

A good CN nib should write every bit as well as a gold nib. That nib needs to be tuned or replaced

 

What is a CN nib?

[Ron2]

 

What is a CN nib?

 

Chrome-Nickel-alloy (CN), a steel nib rather than a gold or gold plated one.

 

Well, another win and loose situation from the fleabay.

 

I am first wondering if it is easy to find a replacement 100 CN nib?

And second, if it is, is replacing a CN nib for a 100 a rather easy process for an expert? Or is it a rather difficult process in which the pen can get broken accidently? I know some vintage pens are fragile and touchy.

Edited July 3, 2010 by Ron2

[Bo Bo Olson]

When WW2 was first getting started in '36 or 38, when Hitler put gold on the war reserve list. Pelikan, and the other German pen makers went first to Palladium..all reputed to be very fine nib material.

 

Then into steel....those "WW2" Palladium and Steel nibs have a very, very good reputations. Matching gold or better reputations.

 

 

It is not your run of the mill steel nibs.*

 

Send it off to repair, and have it re-tipped....John M????, don't have his name on the top of my fingers....does re-tipping of nibs.

E-mail him, if you should Send it to him to see if it is worth re-tipping.

or get a '30-50's nib as replacement.

 

First though see if it's one of those rare and wanted Palladium/Steel nibs.

 

* Steel nibs can be as good as gold or gold as good as steel.

I have a semi-flex Steel Osmia Supra nib in medium, from @1950 that is absolutely superb and don't have to take a step backwards from any of my other 10 semi-flex 14 K semi-flex nibs. Osmia was well known for great nibs.

 

The "war time" nibs are supposedly very very good steel/palladium nibs.

It is on my list to buy.

 

I have a wet noodle that needs re-tipping...come the day. It is not cheap, that is why I said check to see if it is one of the "Wunder" nibs.

 

What is the flexibility; if you know how to judge that? It could well be a good semi-flex.

Edited July 3, 2010 by Bo Bo Olson

[Bo Bo Olson]

Could it be 15 degrees Oblique?

Have you tried holding it slightly crooked? Canted to the left if you look at the nib and the left is shorter, right if the right tine is shorter?

[Inkling]

I'm entering this thread late, but I would just like to add my vote to the smoothness of CN nibs. My medium CN on a Pel 100n is the smoothest nib I have, by some margin.

 

If this isn't too much of a thread hijack, though, for how long where these CN nibs produced? What is the terminus ante quem for Pelikans with these kinds of nib?

[penspouse]

I'm entering this thread late, but I would just like to add my vote to the smoothness of CN nibs. My medium CN on a Pel 100n is the smoothest nib I have, by some margin.

 

If this isn't too much of a thread hijack, though, for how long where these CN nibs produced? What is the terminus ante quem for Pelikans with these kinds of nib?

 

I'm even later to the thread, but my 100n with a CN nib just arrived this evening. It is very smooth, but my question is do these nibs screw in and out like the later Pelikans or is the nib replaced another way? I don't know if this is an original nib. The piston knob is marked BB, but the nib only says CN. It writes a nice broad line with a little flex.

 

Edited to add updated description of nib after writing with it a little longer.

Edited July 27, 2010 by penspouse

[piembi]

I'm even later to the thread, but my 100n with a CN nib just arrived this evening. It is very smooth, but my question is do these nibs screw in and out like the later Pelikans or is the nib replaced another way? I don't know if this is an original nib. The piston knob is marked BB, but the nib only says CN. It writes a nice broad line with a little flex.

 

The nib screws in/out like the modern Pelikan nibs but they are not interchangeable with modern Pelikan nibs.

 

The BB on the piston knob indicates the nib size. Vintage German pens have the nib size engraved on the piston knob. This might lead to confusions if someone has switched or replaced the nib. The later Pelikan 400 nibs are the first ones with the nib size engraved. I have several 400 nibs with no engraving.

[penspouse]

I'm even later to the thread, but my 100n with a CN nib just arrived this evening. It is very smooth, but my question is do these nibs screw in and out like the later Pelikans or is the nib replaced another way? I don't know if this is an original nib. The piston knob is marked BB, but the nib only says CN. It writes a nice broad line with a little flex.

 

The nib screws in/out like the modern Pelikan nibs but they are not interchangeable with modern Pelikan nibs.

 

The BB on the piston knob indicates the nib size. Vintage German pens have the nib size engraved on the piston knob. This might lead to confusions if someone has switched or replaced the nib. The later Pelikan 400 nibs are the first ones with the nib size engraved. I have several 400 nibs with no engraving.

 

So, if I understand you correctly, this could be an original nib. Thanks.

[blackbug67]

I got my first Pelikan today, a 100 in standard green marble with CN nib and gold plated clip/cap rings. I think it is from early 40s, but you experts will know better.

 

I like the deep green color of this one. The green ink-window, which is fairly clear, looks black in pics because pen is loaded with Pelikan BB. {Sorry for poor quality of pics}

 

Although I got it off fleabay, the pen is near mint condition, so I am very happy with what I got, and at a bargain price too (I think.) I was amazed. I looked under the loupe and it virtually has no dings, dents, or scratches. The gold plate has no noticeable brassing. There is a tiny bit on the clip ball that you can see only when using the loupe. On the piston knob, I first noticed what I thought was a long scratch. "Oh, Oh!!", I thought. But after closer look I noticed it was an arrow ----> showing which way to turn the knob.

 

Since the pen has personalization/inscription on the cap, I was hesitant to bid. But you know what? The beautifully stylized lettering and the green letters actually add a nice accent against the black cap, adding to the "vintage-ness". The "Gunther Wagner Pelikan" green is pretty worn off, but the top of cap is nice and green, and so is the "M" on the piston knob.

 

The only thing I can fault with is the nib. It is the scratchiest, toothiest nib I have. I am sure I can get that worked on, but was wondering if this sctachiness is a common characteristic of these nibs. Most likely this issue is limited to this nib and not to all in general. In spite of this, I love how the pen feels in my hand when capped. And it writes a nice, almost F line, so I am very happy, but that toothiness is, well...... I gotta do something about it.

 

Anyway, was just wondering about the toothy CN nib. What is your experience?

 

http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e362/tabijin/P1080097-1.jpg

http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e362/tabijin/P1080099.jpghttp://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e362/tabijin/P1080100.jpghttp://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e362/tabijin/P1080111.jpg

 

Looking at your last photo, it appears that the nib is cracked or maybe just a stray hair or lint about 8 o'clock from the breather hole. That a missing tipping would cause any nib to be downright unusable.

 

Regards,

 

Larry

[feimo]

My Pelikan 100N CN OB nib is scratchy, too, if it makes you feel better...

[Bo Bo Olson]

Some one with more money than me...an evil man, beat me out of a Palladium nib on a Soennecken, :bonk: his twin brother beat me out of a CN nib on a Pelikan :bonk: ......and inside a week and a half...and they were black and I put in 4 x what black went for...I put in the price for a colored pen.....and they wanted them.

 

Probably be put in the back drawer of a collection; or a faint price of Buy Now.

 

Your nib can be fixed...it should be fixed, it is one of them nibs even idiots like me are chasing....