Recommend a mechanical pencil?

[altair]

+1 on the Pentel Kerry for writing.

For drawing I prefer a clutch pencil, Caran d'Ache Fixpencil 22.

[Gallant]

I like the papermate PhD as a mechanical pencil for everyday use. It got a comfortable broad grip and is reasonably priced so losing it doesn't hurt.

[mevsme]

I'm verrry picky when it comes to mechanical pencils because I find them annoying if they aren't comfortable and elegant plus they have to be weighted correctly...not too top heavy...etc. Either way I personally use either a:

 

Pentel Kerry- For every day use like writing and note taking...I don't feel bad carrying it in my pocket either as it's only about $20 including tax plus it's built like a tank.

 

Graphgear 1000 .5mm- Math and more precision things...science etc. Good built quality as well.

 

I also used to use the Pentel S20 in Brown wood...I loved that pen. I lost it somewhere and haven't had the guts to go buy another one, but it's a beautiful drafting pencil.

[troglokev]

Why exactly do drafting pencils have that rough "cross-hatched" section anyway?

Grip.

 

Accuracy is important to drafting, and this leads to several features that make drafting pencils different from writing pencils. The long guide pipe and narrow tip are there to allow the engineer to see the end of the pencil when using it against a scale rule. No self feeds, because these tend to feed when moved against a straight edge, leading to lead breakage and bad language.

 

The knurled grip is there so that the pencil doesn't slip.

[Sketchy]

The knurled grip also makes it easier to rotate the holder as the line is drawn creating a truer line. Pencil rotation is probably a lost art in the age of computer drafting but for those of us who started drafting in the dark ages it's an automatic function.

[bernardo]

Hey, everyone. I was recommended here by a friend of mine who recently sparked my appreciation for writing utensils. From what I hear, this is the best place for this sort of thing, so I figured I'd ask you guys!

I currently use a Pentel Twist-Erase. But I find that it is a bit too narrow for me. My hands get sore and uncomfortable after a while, but I have found that I am much more comfortable using thicker pencils, like a Sumo.

The problem is, I usually find that most fat pencils like that are lower quality, or in the case of the "Uni-ball Alpha Gel Shaka Shaker Pencil", is only .5mm. But I am looking for a .7mm "nicer" thick pencil under $50. I was planning to get the Lamy 2000 mechanical pencil, but I was worried it may also be too thin.

Any recommendations?

Thanks :]

 

I have a Lamy Safari 0.5mm mechanical pencil. It's very comfortable.

[impossiblebird]

The other factor which might be making the Twist-erase uncomfortable for you is that the pencil could be considered quite heavy for its girth. You do find the Sumo more comfy; I think I'm right is saying that's considerably lighter as well as significantly fatter. With that in mind, these are the chunkiest pens I know of, although you might not consider them "high end" enough: (excuse the UK links and prices, but you'll be able to get an idea of what they look like)

 

Faber-Castell Grip Plus is a chunky non-slip triangular grip with a 0.7mm lead option http://www.cultpens.com/acatalog/Faber-Castell_Grip_Plus.html#a1877 Push-button advance; £6.

 

Paper Mate PhD Ultra Pencil with similar grip comes with 0.7mm lead http://www.cultpens.com/acatalog/Paper_Mate_PhD_Ultra.html#a3170 Push-button advance; £7

 

Staedtler graphite 760 Mechanical Pencil, similar grip, in 0.7mm or 1.3mm lead http://www.cultpens.com/acatalog/Staedtler-graphite-760-Pencil.html#a11801 Push-button advance; £7

 

Schneider iD Mechanical Pencil is chunkier yet, but with a more tapered nose cone; the body itself is coated in soft matt black elastomer for grip. It's a propelling pencil rather than a clicker, and the lead is larger: 0.9mm

http://www.cultpens.com/acatalog/Schneider-iD-Pencil.html#a11962 £12.

 

The pencils with even bigger grips tend to have thicker lead; I really like the Faber-Castell Twist Pencil; it's not so long as the others, only 110mm, but its whole body is like one very chunky softgrip section. Lead size is 1.4mm http://davesmechanicalpencils.blogspot.com/2009/06/faber-castell-propelling-pencil.html http://www.cultpens.com/acatalog/Faber-Castell-Twist-Pencil.html#a14709 £9

 

Staedtler 771 1.3mm Mechanical Pencil takes 1.3mm leads http://www.cultpens.com/acatalog/Staedtler-771-Learners-Pencil.html#a11800 Push-button advance; £4. It's aimed at learners, but doesn't look it, with its classic yellow-and-black Noris colours. More obviously learner pencils are the wooden Lamy ABC http://www.cultpens.com/acatalog/Lamy-abc-pencil.html#a9413 with twist advance and 1.4mm lead; £8; and the Pelikan Griffix http://www.cultpens.com/acatalog/Pelikan-Griffix-Pencil.html#a10230 twist advance; 2mm lead; left/right handed; £6.

 

You mentioned the Lamy 2000; I'd consider that quite a slim pencil, and the grip section is not particularly high-friction, and it tapers. I have one; it is indeed classy (I bought it to satisfy my Lamy2000 fountain pen cravings) and I'm quite happy with it, but it's not one I'd have considered suitable for your "big grip" needs. I think, if I were you, I'd consider the Schneider ID: very chunky, and may turn you on to 0.9mm leads...

[gyasko]

I used to use a vintage 1950s Pelikan 450 until i lost it. I really miss it because it was just the right size. Luckily, i recently found a reasonably priced jade green Sheaffer Titan, and i've been using that. It's the companion piece to the OS jade green Flat Top, and being a pencil, it's better preserved than most jade green pens. 1.1mm is a must for me, though i will use .9 in a pinch. .5mm breaks all the time.

 

I use 6B graphite sticks and such for drawing, but 4B for writing. It's smoother and easier to read. It's hard to find in the US and Canada, but i have a stash from Japan, where darker, smoother lead is appreciated.

[gyasko]

I used to use a vintage 1950s Pelikan 450 until i lost it. I really miss it because it was just the right size. Luckily, i recently found a reasonably priced jade green Sheaffer Titan, and i've been using that. It's the companion piece to the OS jade green Flat Top, and being a pencil, it's better preserved than most jade green pens. 1.1mm is a must for me, though i will use .9 in a pinch. .5mm breaks all the time.

 

I use 6B graphite sticks and such for drawing, but 4B for writing. It's smoother and easier to read. It's hard to find in the US and Canada, but i have a stash from Japan, where darker, smoother lead is appreciated.

[Garageboy]

I have a love-hate with the Pentel Twist Erase

I love the size and weight, I hate how slippery the grip gets when your hands are sweaty

[BrianL]

+1 for Autopoint. It is a pencil company that is almost unknown today, sadly. They patented a lead holder that has no play like most others have at the very end. I had several dual point and a few single points I acquired decades ago when they were more common with accountants and lawyers, i.e. pre Pilot era. A couple of years ago I was searching the internet and found the company is still in existence and still manufacturing their signature pencils in the US. Better yet, they are inexpensive compared to all but the cheapest junk you can buy at Walmart, etc. I did an online order for a few different models and some replacement leads and used them in the office until my son started his accounting education, came into the office, saw them and they all disappeared to his backpack. I saved only 1, a thick lead white single point. I am getting ready to reorder. About the only difference I see in the decades old pencils and new onew is the pocket clip. The old ones were screwed into the body while the new ones have a slide on clip.

 

For a lkead holder, I have Staedtler 780s and Koh-I-Noor 5900s. While the 780s is the almost the Joter of lead holders, the 5900 that cost me less is a finer instrument in construction and is more of an earlier design, made of brass and plated metals, machine turned and insets where the assmbly screws into the plastic body. Even the pusher/pointer is a work of art. The 780 fluted end is easier to grip and not slide but the 5900 smooth body has never presented an issue for me. The only place I find the 5900 to be the lesser is the afterthough pocket clip that is thin stamped metal and has sharp edges. The palting on it will flake off as it is stressed.

[Fuddlestack]

I used to like el cheapo 2-mm clutch pencils with a sharpener in the button at the blunt end. I used these pretty intensively in the early 70s when we wrote programs on paper and punched them up on cards or tape before inflicting them on innocent computers. My record was 48 pages of assembler in one day, which got through a fair quantity of graphite, a goodly portion of which ended up on my button thumb. I used to have a wonderful Programmer's Callus, not to mention a pronounced Breadwinner's Crouch - Richard of York had nothing on me. Unlike him, though, I still have my head...¹

 

1. Subject to confirmation

Edited July 3, 2010 by Fuddlestack

[lecorbusier]

Try looking for a faber-castell alphamatic in titanium carbide....

[elysee]

Parker 51 pencils and Parker 61 pencils use 0.9 mm lead; you can find many of these for sale on eBay. You might enjoy a 0.7 mm Waterman Exclusive pencils as well; you can find these with a lacquer finish on eBay. You might enjoy a Waterman Rhapsody pencil: these are a bit more expensive and they use 0.7 mm lead. The Waterman Rhapsody pencil has a nice weight, as does the Waerman Exclusive, and it is thicker than the Waterman Exclusive.

 

My favorite pencils are Elysee pencils, 1990's Parker Duofold pencils, and Caran D'Ache Hexagonal Collection pencils. Elysee pencils double as pens, and they have great weight and lovely lacquer finishes; Elysee ballpoints have a special screw-in pencil insert that converts the ballpoint into a pencil once the inner spring has been removed. Since the company went out of business over ten years ago, the prices on Elysee pens/pencils has increased, even on the cheaper models. There is a 0.5 mm pencil insert and a 0.7 mm pencil insert for Elysee ballpoints. Of course, the 1990's Duofold pencils are more expensive but well worth it for their wonderful balance, larger profile, nice weight, and use of 0.9 mm lead. Caran D'Ache Hexagonal Collection pencils are very expensive but they too have a wonderful balance and nice weight; they use 0.7 mm lead.

 

Since I spend a lot of time writing with pens and pencils, I prefer to use a nice pencil with good weight, a solid feel and a lacquer finish. I do not enjoy using light-weight cheap pencils: their smaller profile, light weight, and cheap feel seem to cause hand cramps and even exacerbate them during extended writing sessions. This never happens when I use my nice pens/pencils.

[untrueparadox]

Funny nobody mentions Rotring 600 mechanical. It's by far one of the best mechanical pencils still in production although you'd have to import it from Japan. eBay sellers have it for about $30 shipped, not bad for a solid piece of engineering.

[Julio]

I just bought a Lammy 2000 mp, it is very comfortable. I will vote for a MB Boheme 7mm for your price range plus postage. Now, that is a deal.

[Rafal]

I'm very satisfied with my Wahl-Eversharp from 1920, and leads are in good availability since Yard-o-lead mechanical pencils use the same size. Vintage Pen also stocks them in a couple different grades, along with a choice of colors and bonding material.

I second that. Some of my favourite pencils.