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Recommend a mechanical pencil?


Mohdoo

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No offense to FPN, but this is the site you really need Daves Mechanical Pencils. He has a good review of the Lamy 2000 there. as well as a "thousand" others.

Thanks for the link! I've been considering getting nicer mechanical pencils to sorta compliment my FP use, so I'm sure that site will help.

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What abkout a MB Boheme in good condition for 60 plus postage. uses .09mm lead, to me very similar to .07 That is a nice pencil at a good bargain.

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Why not try the Kuro Toga? It's the latest release by Uni-ball (the same company that released the Alpha Gels you referred to) and I believe it's available in 0.7mm as well. People have been singing its praises---apparently it has a special mechanism that "sharps" the end of the lead so you always have a sharp line to write with (and the pen apparently sharps it in a way that it makes the lead harder to break than your average mechanical pencil!)

 

In a moment of "I just have to try this" I bought both a 0.3 and 0.5 KURU TOGA (It is in all caps on the barrels). I find them nothing special, and with the usual uncomfortable section of a technical pencil rather than the smooth section of a writing pencil. Not impressed and I consider more of a gimmick than a real technical advance. They are perfectly usable though.

YMMV

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Try a new Autopoint - www.autopointinc.com. Not quite as nice as the vintage ones (which you can still get inexpensively on eBay), but they come in thin and thicker barrels and you can get .5, .7, .9 and even 1.1 mm sizes. Plus they're about the only place you can get 1.1mm sized new leads. Not as convenient as pencils that hold multiple leads but the mechanism to extrude the lead is still way cool.

Rick B.

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Why not try the Kuro Toga? It's the latest release by Uni-ball (the same company that released the Alpha Gels you referred to) and I believe it's available in 0.7mm as well. People have been singing its praises---apparently it has a special mechanism that "sharps" the end of the lead so you always have a sharp line to write with (and the pen apparently sharps it in a way that it makes the lead harder to break than your average mechanical pencil!)

 

In a moment of "I just have to try this" I bought both a 0.3 and 0.5 KURU TOGA (It is in all caps on the barrels). I find them nothing special, and with the usual uncomfortable section of a technical pencil rather than the smooth section of a writing pencil. Not impressed and I consider more of a gimmick than a real technical advance. They are perfectly usable though.

Why exactly do drafting pencils have that rough "cross-hatched" section anyway?

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I'm very satisfied with my Wahl-Eversharp from 1920, and leads are in good availability since Yard-o-lead mechanical pencils use the same size. Vintage Pen also stocks them in a couple different grades, along with a choice of colors and bonding material.

"Should I kill myself or have a cup of coffee?" -Albert Camus

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Did not have time to read the whole thread --just putting in my favorites:

 

Retro 51 pencil--little thicker than 0.7 mm but nice big eraser and thick body.

 

Lamy scribble--I have the thick lead one but they make it in 0.7mm

www.stevelightart.com

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Why not try the Kuro Toga? It's the latest release by Uni-ball (the same company that released the Alpha Gels you referred to) and I believe it's available in 0.7mm as well. People have been singing its praises---apparently it has a special mechanism that "sharps" the end of the lead so you always have a sharp line to write with (and the pen apparently sharps it in a way that it makes the lead harder to break than your average mechanical pencil!)

 

In a moment of "I just have to try this" I bought both a 0.3 and 0.5 KURU TOGA (It is in all caps on the barrels). I find them nothing special, and with the usual uncomfortable section of a technical pencil rather than the smooth section of a writing pencil. Not impressed and I consider more of a gimmick than a real technical advance. They are perfectly usable though.

Why exactly do drafting pencils have that rough "cross-hatched" section anyway?

 

 

Have no idea. Think it was something that engineers came up with back in the 2.0mm lead holder days an it stuck. The KURU TOGA doesn't have the cross hatch but it does have the smooth stepped section which takes some getting use to.

 

I've come to the conclusion that the novel mechanisms doesn't make much sense for 0.3 or 0.5 lead. But it would be an advantage for keeping a sharp point on a 1.1mm pencil. Which they either don't make or JetPens isn't importing.

YMMV

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In a word: AUTOPOINT

 

I've used pencils for many years (I'm an accountant), so I can claim some knowledge here. Autopoints are more a utility pencil than they are a display pencil, but they are extremely reliable and last forever. I've had some (inherited from family) that are over 60 years old and still function perfectly. The vintage Autopoints (easily acquired off of Ebay) are the best, as they are a bit heavier and have the original tip/feed system that was their claim to fame. Also, the older ones include more elegant models as well as the basic utilities that most associate with Autopoint. The current Autopoints follow the utility line, but they also offer refills for most all of the vintage lines.

 

In pencils, it comes down to reliability and function. I've tried many of the brands mentioned earlier; some are fine, some are pretty tempermental. In the end, an Autopoint will never let you down.

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Why not try the Kuro Toga? It's the latest release by Uni-ball (the same company that released the Alpha Gels you referred to) and I believe it's available in 0.7mm as well. People have been singing its praises---apparently it has a special mechanism that "sharps" the end of the lead so you always have a sharp line to write with (and the pen apparently sharps it in a way that it makes the lead harder to break than your average mechanical pencil!)

 

In a moment of "I just have to try this" I bought both a 0.3 and 0.5 KURU TOGA (It is in all caps on the barrels). I find them nothing special, and with the usual uncomfortable section of a technical pencil rather than the smooth section of a writing pencil. Not impressed and I consider more of a gimmick than a real technical advance. They are perfectly usable though.

Why exactly do drafting pencils have that rough "cross-hatched" section anyway?

 

 

Have no idea. Think it was something that engineers came up with back in the 2.0mm lead holder days an it stuck. The KURU TOGA doesn't have the cross hatch but it does have the smooth stepped section which takes some getting use to.

 

I've come to the conclusion that the novel mechanisms doesn't make much sense for 0.3 or 0.5 lead. But it would be an advantage for keeping a sharp point on a 1.1mm pencil. Which they either don't make or JetPens isn't importing.

Funny you bring up lead holders. I saw one at the school store today and didn't really know what it was exactly at first. I thought it was a regular mechanical pencil [albeit with a really thick piece of lead] until I pressed the button and the whole stick of lead came out, revealing how thick it was and how there was only one piece inside. It's sorta like a cross between a mechanical pencil and a wooden one in some ways. It actually looked pretty nice, but how are you supposed to sharpen the point? What are they generally used for? Any good brands/models? Don't know how feasible it would be to use one daily, but its general design has definitely piqued my interest.

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Uni's Alpha Gel Kuru Toga. The grip is a DREAM to write with (if you thought Dr. Grip had a comfy grip...well you've obviously never tried writing with Uni's Alpha Gel line. It completely blows it out of the water).

 

As well, it has a special mechanism (called "kuru toga") that sharpens the lead as you write so that you always write with a consistent line.

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Why not try the Kuro Toga? It's the latest release by Uni-ball (the same company that released the Alpha Gels you referred to) and I believe it's available in 0.7mm as well. People have been singing its praises---apparently it has a special mechanism that "sharps" the end of the lead so you always have a sharp line to write with (and the pen apparently sharps it in a way that it makes the lead harder to break than your average mechanical pencil!)

 

In a moment of "I just have to try this" I bought both a 0.3 and 0.5 KURU TOGA (It is in all caps on the barrels). I find them nothing special, and with the usual uncomfortable section of a technical pencil rather than the smooth section of a writing pencil. Not impressed and I consider more of a gimmick than a real technical advance. They are perfectly usable though.

 

 

Why exactly do drafting pencils have that rough "cross-hatched" section anyway?

 

 

Have no idea. Think it was something that engineers came up with back in the 2.0mm lead holder days an it stuck. The KURU TOGA doesn't have the cross hatch but it does have the smooth stepped section which takes some getting use to.

 

I've come to the conclusion that the novel mechanisms doesn't make much sense for 0.3 or 0.5 lead. But it would be an advantage for keeping a sharp point on a 1.1mm pencil. Which they either don't make or JetPens isn't importing.

Funny you bring up lead holders. I saw one at the school store today and didn't really know what it was exactly at first. I thought it was a regular mechanical pencil [albeit with a really thick piece of lead] until I pressed the button and the whole stick of lead came out, revealing how thick it was and how there was only one piece inside. It's sorta like a cross between a mechanical pencil and a wooden one in some ways. It actually looked pretty nice, but how are you supposed to sharpen the point? What are they generally used for? Any good brands/models? Don't know how feasible it would be to use one daily, but its general design has definitely piqued my interest.

 

Back when people did their engineering and architectual drawing by hand, the lead holder was an advance over the graded wood cased pencils. Used a lead pointer or sand paper block to bring the point back, rather than running to the pencil sharpner. I had or have somewhere a couple either K&E or Dietzgen. Then the lead was cheaper than woodcased pencils so it paid off in the long run.

 

Haven't seen them in a long time. Not sure if I wasn't aware anyone still made them.

Edited by RLTodd

YMMV

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I got 4 Mechanical Pencils, a Pentel Graphgear1000, Zebra M-301, Pentel Graphlet and a Faber Castell Basic Metal.

 

The Zebra doesn't work to good for me because i have big hands and its a small MP but it's cheap

The Faber Castell is the most beauty MP I ever had, but is just that, pretty

My two Pentel are the workhorse the Graphlet is amazing for write and some sketching but the graphgear is my favorite, some people say is too heavy or big but for me works amazing, for writing is not good like the graphlet but for technical drawing and sketching is the best.

 

I'm thinking in buying a Ohto Super Promecha, someone recommend it?

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I always use a pen and pencil set. I use a pencil where most people use a biro.

 

In my opinion,the very best pencil for writing and scribbling is the Parker 51. 0.9mm lead, reservoir of 12, easy advance with a thumb "click", slim and comfortable in the hand, grips the lead down to the very last millimetre, good, accesible rubber. Can't be beaten.

 

Lamy 2000 is pretty good, though.

 

Regards

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......

I'm thinking in buying a Ohto Super Promecha, someone recommend it?

 

This got me to thinking and a little googling to refresh my memory.

 

Technical drawing, drafting, mechanical drawing is a lot of drawing lines to exact positions. Lines are drawn following straigh edges, triangle sides, in punched templates, and along french curves. The cross hatched grip and the higher hold and the ability to closely adjust the lead length aide in these tasks. About the only time they will be used for writing is to do block printing on a drawing. Most of the drawing was done at a near verticle angle to the paper. Almost all techincal pens feed one lead, they are not repeaters. The user can switch lead harneses for the task.

 

Cursive writing requires a different hold point on the pencil and a different writing angle. A comfortable grip is more important than one that can be precisely controlled. A repeater is perfered as one doesn't want ot be refilling in the middle of writing something.

 

They are just different tools optimized for different tasks. That is not to say one can't use one for the other. I can now see the Kuru Toga as a drafting pencil, but it is pretty poor for write ups compared to a Pentel Kerry Sharp or P207.

 

So with the Promecha, it depends on what one will use it for and how one feels about using a technical pencil.

 

I did see that movie on the cartoonist Crumb and it looked like he was drawing with a Rapidiograph pen (another drafting tool made for controlled lines). Hardly the tool I would think an artist would pick, but it worked for him.

YMMV

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It's funny you know. I've been a drafter for 28 years now and no one here has mentioned the name Staedtler,

who are famous world wide for quality mechanical pencils and leads.

Edited by pgmarin
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