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My growing family of "fountainbel" piston fillers


fountainbel

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Hi All,

 

Attached some new pictures showing different versions of my (nearly) finalized piston filler design.

 

I've made 4 now, beside the earlier shown demonstrator and the lined brown/orange HR pen I've now also made a swirled green/ black & swirled orange/ black both in HR.

 

While I initially made a diameter step in the barrel end allowing posting, I finally decided the make a conical diameter transfer, as now shown on all the HR pens.

 

Avoiding any risks for cracking the thin entry wall of the cap (when applying excessive posting pressure) the barrel posts deep in the cap, were the cap wall is nearly 2mm thick.

 

Posting occurs in a cylindrical bore, posting tension is obtained by a rubber O ring installed at the barrel end.

 

On the demonstrator and the lined brown/orange HR pen (first made) the O ring was installed in the filling knob.

 

Drawback was that the piston could be activated when one wrongly turns the cap while un-posting instead of only pulling.

 

On the later made swirled versions I consequently decided installing the O ring in the (now enlarged) collar of the "fixed" piston mechanism enclosure nut

 

Avoiding risks for cracking the cap when applying excessive capping torque, the (0.25 mm wall thickness) cap ring is firmly swaged over the cap threads.

 

The piston mechanism - now equipped with a 4 lead brass lead spindle screwing in a Ketron Peek piston housing – works smooth and with nearly no backlash.

 

Filling the groove of the BunaN piston cup seal with silicone grease, the stick-slip of the piston seal is minimal.

 

Note I'm now testing a new FDA approved grease made by Interflon.

 

This grease contains micronised Teflon particles which lay down/penetrate in the (minor) machining grooves of the barrel bore ensuring

 

a long lasting smooth & stick-slip free piston movement .

 

The film on the barrel wall will most probably also avoid ink deposit on the inner barrel wall

 

Question remains if using this grease will have no drawbacks on the ink transfer over time.

 

I'll keep you posted on this issue.

 

Technical specifications of my "finalized" (?) piston filler :

 

Dimensions :

 

Capped length : 140mm

 

Posted length : 164mm

 

Uncapped length : 135mm

 

Cap diameter : 15mm

 

Weight :

 

Capped : 28 grams

 

Uncapped : 20 grams

 

Effective ink intake : 1.9 ml

 

Comments & suggestions are most welcome !

 

 

Regards, Francis

 

 

 

http://i62.photobuck...rfullCapped.jpg

http://i62.photobuck...rfullPosted.jpg

http://i62.photobuck...tainbelLogo.jpg

Edited by fountainbel
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http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h89/fountainbel/colorfullCapped.jpg

 

http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h89/fountainbel/colorfullPosted.jpg

 

http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h89/fountainbel/FountainbelLogo.jpg

 

Nice to hear from you again, Francis!

 

Those look great.

 

Cheers

 

Michael

Edited by Michael R.
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Francis -- as always your ingenuity, vision and technical/mechanical skills show in your project. Please keep us informed as you progress. Good luck and Bravo!!

 

 

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Fantastically Gorgeous Pens! I really like being able to see your inner workings in the Demonstrator even if you did have a problem with releasing the piston if the cap were un-posted with a twisting motion.

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Are the visable threads just below the gripping section for the cap? ...if yes, I would prefer to see those being made as part of the gripping section (same color/material as the gripping section).

 

Also I'm not perfectly happy with the black o-ring on the end of the pen (for esthetical reasons); could this o-ring be placed inside the cap?

 

Also I remember your click-cap on one of your lady's pens; I would prefer such a click to post the cap (in case this can be done with an screw cap: clicking for posting - screwing for capping).

 

Is the change of the cap lip on the two new models because to the different posting position?

 

 

Otherwise great design and proportions.

 

Cheers

 

Michael

Edited by Michael R.
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Hi Michael ,

Thanks for your valuable input, much appreciated !

Please find below my comments on your remarks.

Are the visable threads just below the gripping section for the cap? ...if yes, I would prefer to see those being made as part of the gripping section (same color/material as the gripping section).

Yes Michael, the threads just behind the section are for screwing the cap on.

Making them part of the gripping section would :

1- Elongate the pen with 6mm (capped unposted & posted)

2- Is technically not safe since one could unscrew the section when uncapping the pen.(applying a left hand thread in the barrel could probably solve this issue)

3- Would make the pen more expensive to make;

4- One would see the internal barrel threads & the barrel./section O ring seal through the plexiglas (now internal & external barrel threads are overlapping)

 

 

Also I'm not perfectly happy with the black o-ring on the end of the pen (for esthetical reasons); could this o-ring be placed inside the cap?

I could mount the O ring inside the cap, but :

1-Due to the wall thickness of the cap the section of the O ring could be maximum 1mm, so less flexibility & faster wear

2- Is also more difficult to make

Also I remember your click-cap on one of your lady's pens; I would prefer such a click to post the cap (in case this can be done with an screw cap: clicking for posting - screwing for capping).

 

Making a simular "snap fit" posting click system internally in the cap can not be combined with the cap closure system & even then it would be to expensive.

Note the Buna N Oring will ensure a smooth &very dependable posting over years.

Is the change of the cap lip on the two new models because to the different posting position?

 

Made just in search for the ideal esthetical proportions, what do you prefer?

Personally I prefer the longer cap, the deeper the cap threads are inside the cap, the less risks for cracking when overthightening

 

 

Otherwise great design and proportions.

Thanks !

 

Cheers

 

Michael

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Nice pens, fountainbel. Do they use M800 nibs?

 

Kind regards,

gyrosan

 

Hi Gyrosan,

Thanks for the compliment.

I normally use Bock nib assemblies ( as shown on 2 pens)

I've used them all and had a few Plikan 800 nib which I installed , just for fun.

Francis

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Hi Flourish & Penfisher,

Glad you both like the technical & esthetical features of my piston fillers.

I'm rather a perfectionist, happy when things work as expected but frustrated if I find out I could have done it better or simpler.

Flourish, please note my next demonstrator ( and all other piston fillers)will be exactly identical as the more recently made pens, having the posting Oring in the piston mechanism enclosure nut & NOT in the filling knob.

Francis

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Also I'm not perfectly happy with the black o-ring on the end of the pen (for esthetical reasons); could this o-ring be placed inside the cap?

 

Michael, after giving this aspect some thoughts, I think you have a point on this issue.

I made a design change whereby the O ring is covered by a (1.0mm wall thickness )HR ring.

Doing so the desired posting pretension is still generated by the O ring, while the ring "shrinks" 0.15 mm & descends in the groove when posting.

When un-posting the ring expands back to its neutral diameter triggered by the expansion of the Oring.

Just tested & works perfectly!

Thanks for your input !

Francis

 

Cheers

 

Michael

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I propose to prohibit access for Francis to this site, because we, ordinary penmakers are thrown into depression with his masterworks. I'm joking, but he is for the class above us mortals .... My cap is off to you master.

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Hi all,

Thanks a lot for your reactions.

Given some input from another board, I just altered one of the pens to a "short" ink window.

Aesthetically this results in the fact that the ink window s fully covered whan the pen is capped.

Some people like the long ink window, other prefer the short "cap covered" version;

What do you think ?

Thanks & regards, Francis

 

http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h89/fountainbel/smallinkwindow005.jpg

http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h89/fountainbel/smallinkwindow006.jpg

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I looked at the pictures yesterday but my mind wasn't focusing, totally missed the fact the last picture was of the short window capped & uncapped.

Taking a fresh look this morning I now see what I was missing, that in picture "smallinkwindow006" that this IS the small ink window exposed, I never bothered looking at the picture title [oops!].

In the other picture, or "smallinkwindow005", I can't even tell there's an ink window there, the cap completely covers it when the pen is capped, obviously the intention.

Going back even further, to the beginning of this thread, and taking a closer look at the longer ink window, my first thought was "It looks fragile,somewhat out of place.", ...

 

http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h89/fountainbel/colorfullCapped.jpg

 

 

... I honestly feel the long window detracts somewhat from the overall beauty of the pens, my first impression, but that's fading a bit as I try visualizing them filled with ink.

It's almost as if the clear section would be more fragile in my minds' eye [perception only, as if looking at glass and an opinion not based in fact], takes away from the aesthetics a bit since I find true warmth & beauty in the HR colors and swirls.

The pen that is all clear looks perfect just the way it is, as a demonstrator of course, and I've always admired your demonstrators from the very first time I'd laid eyes on one, but I digress and veered off-topic with this observation.

 

If I were to suggest anything; it might be to take both window ideas and "combine them" to create a window that just barely peaks out from under the cap, say @ 6mm maximum exposure when the pen is capped?

A small visualization with pen capped would provide a quick reference of whether the pen has enough ink, without the need for cap removal, a big plus when grabbing your pen and not having to uncap it to know it's inked or how much it's inked.

I also feel that a smaller window being exposed when capped would greatly improve the overall looks of the pen, maybe going as far as using a clear grey or colored transparent material to make the window even less obvious capped but still provide a visual reference of ink level?

Using a smoked plastic would not provide a ready visualization of the ink color, however, something I actually find interesting with demonstrators for example, as I have so many different inks in different colors, yet a smoke grey transparent Plexiglas would [to me] look far more elegant.

 

Regardless of what you do in the final stages I like them all, as always simply gorgeous work!

Un-inked the longer window almost gives the impression of the pen cap and body floating separately from each other, would probably be a fascination to watch ink sloshing around inside when the pens are inked and that's and interesting trait.

The more I look at this picture, the more I'm liking the longer window, leading to making the attempt to choose only that much more difficult.

I'm finding myself being drawn to which color of HR I prefer rather than the window size, and for me I prefer what looks like dark brown/red, since it has the appearance of fine grained wood, matching that with @ 6mm of clear grey exposed I think would be a real gem!

Then again I keep getting drawn back to the all-clear model, I guess because my mind keep wanting to wrap around visible function, then I lean back toward the dark brown/red again, so I'm teetering.

 

OK, if I were to place an order for one of these pens, here's what I'd ask for:

 

A pen much like the 3rd from the top [in the picture I'd borrowed], in what looks like a dark brown/red fine stripes [almost appears like exotic wood grain polished to a high gloss!], with a smoke grey transparent window of @ 6mm exposed when capped, accenting the stainless steel furniture/hardware.

That would be my preference, a pen I would truly treasure, finding it warm and soothing in my minds' eye right now, being able to see at-a-glance the ink level when capped yet still feel and see the warmth & beauty of the HR by using a smaller, darker smokey grey window.

Does that make sense, does it help at all?

That would be my choice, had I the opportunity to place an order for anything I've seen so far, for what it's worth.

“I view my fountain pens & inks as an artist might view their brushes and paints.

They flow across paper as a brush to canvas, transforming my thoughts into words and my words into art.

There is nothing else like it; the art of writing and the painting of words!”

~Inka~ [scott]; 5 October, 2009

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Thanks all for your input on the ink window's length .

It looks the "shorter" ink window is the way to go.

Inka, your suggestion on making a "compromise length" ink window is surely worth considering.

Im evaluating making the "short" ink window -and the cap- 4 mm longer.

Thanks !

Francis

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It's just an observation, that maybe having a short window but barely exposed when capped might be a nice compromise.

I'd be interested in hearing what others think, since some like the long window exposed at all times and some don't want to see it at all when capped.

When I look at the clear demonstrator, there's a bit of clearance seen between the piston seals and where the cap seats threaded onto the barrel, @ the same amount of exposed window I was envisioning on the HR design compromise.

:thumbup:

“I view my fountain pens & inks as an artist might view their brushes and paints.

They flow across paper as a brush to canvas, transforming my thoughts into words and my words into art.

There is nothing else like it; the art of writing and the painting of words!”

~Inka~ [scott]; 5 October, 2009

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