Taking apart a 146 nib assy.

[Abhik]

Hari, this thread (& piston lubing) shows the engineer in you!

Wonderful pictures.

Admins should consider to pin these two topics for future references in appropriate forum.

Best,

Abhik.

[watch_art]

Could you have ground away a bit at the tool you already had to make it fit the newer one? That way it fits both pens?

[hari317]

Could you have ground away a bit at the tool you already had to make it fit the newer one? That way it fits both pens?

 

The feeder case lip is quite delicate, the projection from the tool must fit the slot well. Francis has now designed a tool with the "teeth" on both the sides, one side for the new feeder case and the other side for the older style.

[karmakoda]

Hari, Francis, this is a completely professional guide.

Now, would you mind doing a tutorial on the removal and re-assembly of the piston assembly on a 146?

 

Three cheers for competent do-it-yourselfers! and to watch_art for reviving this thread.

[watch_art]

Now I need a 146/9 so that I can take it apart. Anybody got any up for trade??? :clap1:

[CS388]

Thanks Hari, great post and pictures. Made it all very clear.

 

However, I'm slightly confused by this line:

 

The section without nib carrier:

you can see the step that holds the threads for the nib unit. There is no sealing between the nib carrier lip and the lip of the section, ink can seep in into the annular gap while filling the pen and slowly leach out.

 

Are you suggesting that sealant should be put there on rebuilding?

I'm not even sure where the sealant goes?

 

But, again, great post, thanks for sharing your knowledge.

[hari317]

However, I'm slightly confused by this line:

 

The section without nib carrier:

you can see the step that holds the threads for the nib unit. There is no sealing between the nib carrier lip and the lip of the section, ink can seep in into the annular gap while filling the pen and slowly leach out.

 

Are you suggesting that sealant should be put there on rebuilding?

I'm not even sure where the sealant goes?

 

If the feeder case becomes loose even by a slight amount(for what ever reason), during the process of filling the pen, Ink can seep into the annular gap between the feeder case and the gripping section ID(which is basically just a hollow shell covering the union of the feeder case and barrel) when the nib is dipped into ink for filling. This trapped ink will slowly leach out giving inky fingers.

 

Hence the feeder case has to be tightened into the barrel just by the right amount, so that the lower face of the lip of the feeder case seals uniformly against the top face of the gripping section. The sealant has to be applied on the threads and outer walls of the feeder case. The threads are probably already nicely designed to be leak tight, This sealant will just act as a "retainer" and filling some of the annular volume.

 

Also see the excellent thread by Sean where he shows his 149 demonstrators to see how the factory actually applies their bubble gum sealant.

 

Sean's thread: link

 

Sean's picture just for illustration purpose:

 

http://i636.photobucket.com/albums/uu82/multiechelon/149Demonstrator/149Demonstrator_04.jpg

 

 

Best,

Hari

[CS388]

Ah, I see.

 

Invaluable information, there will come a time when I put it to good use.

 

Many thanks, Hari.

[jslallar]

Also I think it would be interesting if it would be possible to design a tool which will allow to remove nib and feed only. This way you would not have to re-seal the nib carrier when putting everything back together.

 

I was thinking about a tool which whill grip both nib and feed very tightly (...gripping the feed in a small gap) so you could pull them out together from the carrier.

 

 

Michael, since the feed and nib are friction fit into the feeder case, I'd be concerned about damaging either the feed or nib. Particularly the most modern/current feed because the fins are so delicate. Using section sealant from Tryphon or Pendemonium or an equivalent product is the way to go if the nib assembly must be removed from a pen.

 

Eric

 

 

Dear Michael

I would second Eric here. After removing the nib assembly the nib and feed are usually so well fit into the housing that they can't be pulled out and the best way to remove the nib from the housing is to dip the housing in hot water for a few seconds causing it to expand and loosen its hold on the nib and feed, whereby they can be removed without great dmamage to either. Pulling them out without heating the assembly can damage the fins of the feed as already mentioned by Eric.

 

And har317,

what beautiful pics. Thanks for the info shared. BTW I saw the actual tool (which I am sure you are familiar with - but for the benefit of other mortals) and it looks like a screw driver, with big bulbous rubber grip, and the business end is widened and spoon shaped, with a straight cut front end, such that it fits over the feed and the prongs go into the slots in the housing. The feed lies in the hollow of the spoon. Once fitted you just unscrew the nib housing from the pen. here are several such tolls all numbered and for different models.

 

Your home made tool is great too.

 

In the M<B boiutique here I saw the pens refitted with a sort of a silicone provided for the purpose. Other sealants of course can be used.

[talkinghead]

the nib assembly the nib and feed are usually so well fit into the housing that they can't be pulled out and the best way to remove the nib from the housing is to dip the housing in hot water for a few seconds causing it to expand and loosen its hold on the nib and feed, whereby they can be removed without great dmamage to either. Pulling them out without heating the assembly can damage the fins of the feed as already mentioned by Eric.

 

knockout block like for other nib/feed/section assemblies?

 

Rick

[Frosty One]

Great Info

[Montblanc owner and lover]

wow!great work!thanks!

[meiers]

Thanks

[fountainpen3232]

nice! congrats!

[newlife]

Thanks a lot for your thread! Wonderful photographs and info that will maybe help me sometime, being proud owner of my first 146 from the nineties for just ten hours now.

Of course everthing is fine with the pen right now, but who knows?

 

Klaus

[Mister Mont Blanc]

Thanks for all the comments! For now, I have used a generous amount of silicone grease, but I plan to use a locally made single part Silicone RTV sealant called Anabond 666 available in 100gm tubes. Pls take care not to overtighten the feeder case while refitting, high likely hood of it breaking.

 

Best,

Hari

I have been reading through all of these threads (from Hari) on the nib section and piston maintenance (priceless information!) and I have one question. I recently got a 1960's-1970's 149 which from what I've read, uses the old sealant in the nib assembly. I was tinkering with it to adjust the ink flow and align the nib when I noticed the nib and feed turned counterclockwise inside the collar but the collar didn't move. At first I wondered why the assembly couldn't just be removed and reinserted without issue then I realized how the sealant works and once broken, it's broken. So my question is, did anything happen when the nib/feed was slightly turned? Was a seal broken that now needs to be replaced? I quickly turned it back tightly and I haven't seen any leaking of ink.

[slippery when wet]

I have been reading through all of these threads (from Hari) on the nib section and piston maintenance (priceless information!) and I have one question. I recently got a 1960's-1970's 149 which from what I've read, uses the old sealant in the nib assembly. I was tinkering with it to adjust the ink flow and align the nib when I noticed the nib and feed turned counterclockwise inside the collar but the collar didn't move. At first I wondered why the assembly couldn't just be removed and reinserted without issue then I realized how the sealant works and once broken, it's broken. So my question is, did anything happen when the nib/feed was slightly turned? Was a seal broken that now needs to be replaced? I quickly turned it back tightly and I haven't seen any leaking of ink.

Hi Dan, there was no old style sealant in your pen, from memory I would have pulled the piston, lubricated and then reinstated with silicone grease. The section would have been the same, threading would have been coated with silicone grease.

I also agree with talkinghead, when removing the feed and nib, you should only use a knockout block.

[talkinghead]

I was tinkering with it to adjust the ink flow and align the nib when I noticed the nib and feed turned counterclockwise inside the collar but the collar didn't move............So my question is, did anything happen when the nib/feed was slightly turned? Was a seal broken that now needs to be replaced? ...................

 

No

 

The nib and feed are friction fit within the collar. The "sealant" that you speak of is on the collar threads itself, sealing the collar to the barrel. However if the collar was placed back simply with silicone, then it's possible the collar could unscrew since it is not fixed. Just screw it back in.

The pink "bubblegum"sealant that MB uses, is a silicone rubber that when "cured", acts as both a liquid (ink) sealant to prevent leaks, AND "cement" to effectively fix the collar in place....more to protect the pen from people like us!!!!

 

Rick

 

 

Edit>>> I just use silicone grease myself btw....makes it easier to take in and out and service my OWN pens. Any pen service I do for others or will sell, I will sometimes use a tiny dab of rosin or section sealant/sac cement, but not often.

Edited October 26, 2014 by talkinghead

[Mister Mont Blanc]

 

No

 

The nib and feed are friction fit within the collar. The "sealant" that you speak of is on the collar threads itself, sealing the collar to the barrel. However if the collar was placed back simply with silicone, then it's possible the collar could unscrew since it is not fixed. Just screw it back in.

The pink "bubblegum"sealant that MB uses, is a silicone rubber that when "cured", acts as both a liquid (ink) sealant to prevent leaks, AND "cement" to effectively fix the collar in place....more to protect the pen from people like us!!!!

 

Rick

 

 

Edit>>> I just use silicone grease myself btw....makes it easier to take in and out and service my OWN pens. Any pen service I do for others or will sell, I will sometimes use a tiny dab of rosin or section sealant/sac cement, but not often.

Okay, so you're saying the same silicone grease used to lube the piston can be used to seal the collar threads which may have been done on this pen before?

[Mister Mont Blanc]

Hi Dan, there was no old style sealant in your pen, from memory I would have pulled the piston, lubricated and then reinstated with silicone grease. The section would have been the same, threading would have been coated with silicone grease.

I also agree with talkinghead, when removing the feed and nib, you should only use a knockout block.

Oh are you saying you did this work on this pen?