My first Estie

[FayeV]

 

 

Is there a way to get the lever on the barrel to line up with the top of the nib?

 

==> Yes, with much care and caution. The nib must be installed and then you warm the barrel around the thread area (careful, careful not too warm). When warm you should be able to gently rotate the section with nib in place so that it lines up properly. Caution: do not use excessive heat or force. If the section doesn't rotate with warming then have someone with proper tools/experience set it up for you. Just like pulling the section out completely , there is always the risk of cracking the barrel at the threads. Did I mention the word careful ?

 

When the pen is capped, Is there a way to get the clip to line up with the lever on the barrel? --- Yes, my OCD is kicking in

 

==> As a practical matter, no. It is possible to pull the inner cap and then reset it so that the lever will line up with the cap clip when the barrel is screwed in. Not worth the risk/cost/reward IMHO. However, sometimes the clip and lever will line up depending on the initial position of the lever relative to the clip when you first insert the barrel into the cap. Trial and error applies here with no guarantees.

 

 

 

 

Thanks PenFisher. I'm going to lean toward the cautious side and just leave it alone for now. I really enjoy writing with this pen and don't want to mess it up just yet. Maybe I'll work up the courage to tinker with it after I get my hands on a few more Esties.

[gweimer1]

Yeah, I know....double post. But I thought I should introduce myself here, too.

 

Is there a secret handshake I need to learn? I've got a few Parkers, but the bug caught me, and I decided to look for an Esterbrook J. By mere coincidence, this listing came across my path on eBay, and it was only 10 minutes away. I got the pen, no shipping, and just picked it up.

http://www.ebay.com/...cvip=true&rt=nc

I've got it back in my apartment, and this is what I have. It's an early transition J, from what I have learned. This pen was at an auctioneer's warehouse when I picked it up. Tons of junk on skids in the parking lot. When I got home, the nib came off easily, but has a layer of old, dried up ink on it. It's sitting in a soak for the next day. The pen itself is pretty clean, but this one got some use. The Esterbrook engraving is half worn away. I couldn't move the lever at first, and I didn't try to force it. I put some of the rinse solution in the body and let it sit for a few minutes, then flushed it out with water (my Brita filter creates a narrow stream about the size of the pen opening). Soon, chunks of dried ink started coming out. Gradually, the lever seems to work, but I can't tell the condition of the sac. It might be ruptured.

I've never attempted a pen repair before, so what should I be looking for? I've watched the YouTube videos for these pens, and have a general idea. My first concern is clearing all the junk out of the sac to determine if the pen is still intact.

And...I think the sac is ruptured. When water comes out of the lever as I fill from the body, I think that's my clue.

[gweimer1]

And then, there were two...

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/VINTAGE-USED-ESTERBROOK-FOUNTAIN-PEN-LEVER-FILL-NO-RESERVE-SEE-ALL-PENS-NR-/281400497758?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT&_trksid=p2047675.l2557&nma=true&si=O4SVc8VxlvQEVbollq0s7ZJl1sU%253D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc#ht_1165wt_1153

[white_lotus]

There is several threads on how to replace an Esterbook sac. Search for that and you'll have good instructions. The sometimes difficult and delicate task is removing the section from the barrel. Replacing the sac itself is pretty easy.

 

I'm sure there's a few folks who can do a sac replacement if you decide not to go the DIY route. Can't imagine it'd be that expensive.

[gweimer1]

There is several threads on how to replace an Esterbook sac. Search for that and you'll have good instructions. The sometimes difficult and delicate task is removing the section from the barrel. Replacing the sac itself is pretty easy.

 

I'm sure there's a few folks who can do a sac replacement if you decide not to go the DIY route. Can't imagine it'd be that expensive.

 

I've been looking over the resources here, and have watched a video on YouTube for this. I think I will brave it. I also have the eccentric Vintage Pen Repair shop only 10 min. from where I work, just in case. I'm going to see if he can sell me the materials I need. Thanks to everyone for the input and guidance!

[gweimer1]

So, I got the other two today in the mail. One looks good, but I notice that the clip is a little off, and the lever is giving me some resistance, so I'll take my time looking that one over. I think I'll take the body off before going any further. I do notice a little more rust on the lever, which I was warned about.

 

The second one is the one that I really wanted, so I bid a little high, partially for the 9668 nib, and for the color. This one is really nice, despite missing the end jewel. Everything looks well taken care of, inside and out. The lever is smooth, and the sac feels pliable. The neat thing about this pen is that it's nearly translucent. When you hold it up to the light, you can make out the inner workings. This one may be with me a while. Now that I have a few of these, I've deterrnined that this is actually an Estie LJ.

Edited August 9, 2014 by gweimer1

[OcalaFlGuy]

It's an Icicle.

 

In the end with the missing jewel is there a smaller hole in the center maybe 1/16" in diameter?

 

The good news is that if there is, barrel and cap jewels for SJ's and LJ's are all the same size and are probably much easier to find from members

than a larger J cap jewel.

 

Bruce in Ocala, Fl

[gweimer1]

No smaller hole. I put some Omas Black ink in, and OH MY...I see why people love these pens. This thing just glides across the paper. It's not quite as good as the Parker 51, but it's a pen that I enjoyed from the first stroke. It's also my first lever fill, and this is MUCH easier than the Parker 51. There are times when I feel Like I need a college degree to work the Parker.

 

Parts ordered and on the way, and I'm about to take on my first pen repairs. I have a sac to replace on one, and the third one I got was REALLY rusty inside. The section was a little loose, so it slipped right out of the body. The sac is good, but a lot of iron oxide dust inside.

[OcalaFlGuy]

You can build the part of the nipple up that contacts the inner barrel with shellac.

 

Let it dry overnight and try and insert and check for any looseness. You aren't using the shellac to "glue" the section in, you're using it to make that part of the section larger around.

 

Bruce in Ocala, Fl

[gweimer1]

I may get a lot of use from this pen just by writing notes on all these tips. Thanks!

[Lamyrada]

Deleted. Not for this area.

Edited August 9, 2014 by Lamyrada

[Lamyrada]

There is a beautiful Estie, color pink, which has been relisted. Perfect for an Esterbrook lover. I did not buy it because I won two pens yesterday. A Parker 45 and an Esterbrook J in a Mackerel Grey Sky color . I did not have a J, soo.... I am also shopping for a bigger case because my collection has grown... ($$$$ ) What is unique to this pen is its size and color, and will pass unsold again because the title does not describe it well, so those who look for it as the CH Esterbrook model will not find it.

 

I think it is a great oportunity for FPNer that can change the sac and restore it if necessary.

 

Her it is :

https://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/index.php/topic/104607-my-first-estie/page-16?do=findComment&comment=3077990

Edited August 10, 2014 by Lamyrada

[OcalaFlGuy]

No, there it Isn't.

 

Bruce in Ocala, Fl

[JoeyZ]

My first Esties (sort of)!

 

A few years ago I purchased an antique store Estie and then proceeded to break the section when trying to check the sac. I have since been on the look out for a first usable Estie. Fast forward to this week...

 

 

I found the above black SJ and green transitional at an antique store and grabbed both. The SJ has a less than perfect 1550 nib (I think that the tip should be folded instead of just flat metal, right?). The J has a nice 9556 nib. Both write well with a dip test, but the 1550 is scratchy unless the writing angle is in the perfect sweet spot.

 

This time I read the advise here first and removed the sections with the help of a little heat. Both pens have pliable sacs that pass a pressure test; and as neither have "Esterbrook" written on the sacs, I assume that they have both been replaced at some point.

 

The green cap and jewel had some grease build up, but cleaned up nicely after I unscrewed the jewel and clip. Neither have a sprung clip on the cap but rather sit very nice and tight.

 

I think I did pretty well considering that I am inexperienced with Esterbrook pens, lever fillers, and vintage pens. I obviously will need to replace the 1550, but is $20.00 total for both a pretty good score for immediately usable Esties in the wild?

 

Joe

[Lamyrada]

I usually buy them restored for $28 on ebay. The 5 i have all work welll, have great nibs and were said to be restored from sellers of over 1000 sales and 100% feedback. That's the way to go if you don't want to restore them. Look for good sellers. Since i dont want to restore them, i go that way. Some people like to tinker and i would say that's a good buy if restoration cost is not more than $20 ea which i think it will plus you'll have a good time doing it.

[OcalaFlGuy]

No smaller hole.

 

If you would like to pursue getting a jewel for the barrel please take a pic looking dead on at the end of the barrel hole for me.

 

I have some LJ/SJ parts barrels. If I think I have a jewel that will fit the hole, I'll try and harvest it for you. If I can get it out in one piece, it won't cost

you more than a couple bucks.

 

Bruce in Ocala, Fl

[gweimer1]

 

If you would like to pursue getting a jewel for the barrel please take a pic looking dead on at the end of the barrel hole for me.

 

I have some LJ/SJ parts barrels. If I think I have a jewel that will fit the hole, I'll try and harvest it for you. If I can get it out in one piece, it won't cost

you more than a couple bucks.

 

Bruce in Ocala, Fl

[OcalaFlGuy]

Get a LED light and shine in the hole and take a pic. I need to see what's there or not. That's why I said Dead On the hole.

 

If it's a stemmed jewel, I probably can get one out, if it's not, I probably don't have one.

 

That pic doesn't show me where the jewel stem would go. Sorry.

 

Bruce in Ocala, Fl

[gweimer1]

I hope this is good enough to show you what you need. I don't have a camera good enough for close ups.

 

 

[OcalaFlGuy]

Yes GW, that is what I needed to see.

 

One or both of us is living right.

 

I have 15 parts caps and barrels. ALL of their jewels are either busted or missing.

 

Except for 2, both LJ barrels like yours. Whee!

 

I know where my knock-out block is but I'm too damn lazy to figure out where I hid my mallet from myself at.

 

So, I did the next more risky thing and razor bladed out a nice clean jewel for you. Miraculously without either nicking the jewel Or slicing my fingertips off. (BTDT, got the t-shirt. I already have 8 stitches in 2 fingertips from 1 sided razor blades. )

 

I'll try and put a little shiny on the jewel for you.

 

Contact me backchannel with your addy and I'll give you my Paypal. PP Gift me $2 for the trip to the PO and it's yours.

 

Just slobber on the jewel stem and push it in da ho.

 

Bruce in Ocala, Fl