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Vintage nib numbers usually mean nib size


Johnny Appleseed

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We have had several different posts asking about the meaning of the numbers found on vintage nibs. The questions usually ask whether a particular number nib is flexible or not, or whether it would be fine, medium, etc.

 

The numbers in question are the (usually) single-digit numbers found on the majority of fountain-pen nibs from the 1880s to the 1930s or thereabouts, and on the bulk of gold dip-pen nibs as well.

 

For the most part, the numbers on vintage nibs say absolutely nothing about the writing quality of the nib., They do not indicate the size of line (fine, medium, broad, etc.) or the relative flex of the pen. The numbers usually indicate the relative size of the nib - not the size of the point, but the size of the nib. Point size and flexibility was usually indicated on a paper sticker that would have been attached to the pen, or on the box (which of course does not help us 80 years later).

 

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a150/laridae/Aikin-Lambert-nibs.jpg

 

This illustration, from a 1917 catalog, shows a selection of Gold Aikin Lambert dip-nibs in sizes 6, 5, 4, 3, 2 and 1. Note the difference in size between the nibs - a #6 is larger than a #5, and so on. They might all be fine or extra fine or broad - the number does not indicate that at all. Nor does it indicate flexibility.

 

Another example - a selection of Waterman nibs, including a #6, a #5 (which does not have a number imprint, but is a #5 size) and several #2s.

 

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a150/laridae/Waterman-nibs.jpg

 

Again, note the difference between the size of the #6 vs the size of the #2. The #6 happens to be a fairly stiff fine, though there is no way of determining that from the imprint. The #2s include two semi-flex fine, a semi-flex XF, and one extremely firm fine that is labelled "Account" (for Accountant). Their could just as well be a #2 super-flexy XF or a #2 stiff broad, or even a stub nib with the same #2 imprint.

 

 

A couple of other things to note about these numbers - they were not consistant from manufacture to manufacture, so one brands #4 may be another brands #2. This is particularly true of Warranted nibs, since they were made by many different manufacturers - I have seen Warranted #8 nibs that were smaller than Warranted #2 nibs.

 

There are exceptions:

 

Esterbrook used a 4-digit number code starting in the 1930s, in which each number represented a different point style (2668 = standard medium, 2048 = flex fine, etc - the complete list can be found here)

 

Sheaffer started using a 3-digit code for their Addipoint nibs, which indicated tip size for the most part. They continued to use a 3-digit code for their lower-end pens through the Fineline line and then the early Cartridge pens.

 

Sheaffer also started to use an alpha-numeric nib code starting with the Snorkel line in the 1950s, in which a number indicated a type and material of the nib (eg. "5" was for a 14K Triumph nib, "4" for a Silver-palladium triumph nib, "3" for a 14K open nib, etc.) and a letter for the tip style (F, M, B, as well as S for stub, G for Gregg shorthand, etc) - so an F3 nib is a fine, 14K, open nib. Read all about the Snorkel codes - here.

 

Some Parker nibs, from the 1930s on, were stamped with a date-code that indicated the year and quarter of their production - so a "34" on a 1930s Parker vacumatic would indicated 3rd quarter 1934 production. This give no indication of the type, size or other indicators of the nib.

 

Some Wearever nibs used a 4-digit code like Esterbrooks, but I do not think they had a wide range of nib-types.

 

Also, steel dip-nibs often had model numbers that corresponded to different point styles and types. They are often 3 digit numbers, though there was a wide diversity of the types of steel dip-nibs available, and a host of different companies and systems. You really need the specific key for each brand to figure those out.

 

(Please add any other exceptions where nib-numbers indicated a specific property).

 

I hope this helps to clear up some confusion on this issue.

 

John

 

So if you have a lot of ink,

You should get a Yink, I think.

 

- Dr Suess

 

Always looking for pens by Baird-North, Charles Ingersoll, and nibs marked "CHI"

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It's a great help. Thank you very much!

May you have pens you enjoy, with plenty of paper and ink. :)

Please use only my FPN name "Gran" in your posts. Thanks very much!

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. . . For the most part, the numbers on vintage nibs say absolutely nothing about the writing quality of the nib., They do not indicate the size of line (fine, medium, broad, etc.) or the relative flex of the pen. The numbers usually indicate the relative size of the nib - not the size of the point, but the size of the nib. Point size and flexibility was usually indicated on a paper sticker that would have been attached to the pen, or on the box (which of course does not help us 80 years later). . . .

 

FINALLY! An explanation for the numbers! Thanks! :)

 

Judybug

 

So many pens, so little time!

 

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My Blog: Bywater Wisdom

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Very helpful, thank you!

This could be duplicated in the FAQs section.

Mars

 

 

"fortibus es in ero"

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I've been driving myself to distraction trying to sort out nib numbers on Parker 35. While I still don't know what they mean, I can at least quit trying to relate them to nib size.

 

 

I came here for the pictures and stayed for the conversation.

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  • 6 years later...

Sorry to resurrect a thread but I'm trying to work out what size the nib on the right in this picture is (Rolatip Soft Fine from an Osmiroid 65 Oxford):

 

post-127007-0-60716000-1452109763_thumb.jpg

 

Left is a #6 from a Noodlers Ahab for comparison. The Osmiroid nib is 5mm across the base, 7mm across the shoulders, total length 33mm. Is it just a small and dainty #5?

Edited by twigletzone
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