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Montblanc Legrand VS Inoxcrom Caravel This is a traslation that I did (sorry for my english) from the original post of a friend called Manuleon in a different forum. I have his authorization to put this translation here.

Is there such a thing as elegant printing vs cursive/script? Such as for snail mail letter writing? Can anyone post samples of printing in letter writing? Are there actual styles for this? Thanks Aloha jim

I became aware of the world of fountain pens (other than Montblanc) through Goulet on Youtube earlier this year and got sucked in. I write a lot so initially this was all justified, but now its clearly gotten out of control. Goulet no longer sell Sailor, so it took a couple months, but I then became aware of Sailor and how supposedly great Sailor inks were. Of course it was not long after that I became aware of their special store inks. I also found out that I missed out on when Sailor was offering the old style tall bottles more commonly with their regular inks, and everything I was buying now comes with the short stubby ink bottle, which is boring at best. I do not think the short bottles should be used on Sailor's inks which tend to be more expensive. Anyways, a goal of mine has been accomplished, I have acquired Pen and Message Saku Deep Blue in the old style bottle. I love the look of the bottle, but as so many have stated the cap can get stuck. I would have to say Pelikan Edelstein make the best bottle I have tried: They look great, feel solid, they are heavy with a wide base and the cap always works. I have never tried the Akkerman bottle. Ok tangent over. I adore this ink so thats a plus as well. Overall I love this ink, the look, the feel, the sheen, how it behaves so similarly on so many different papers. I still cant pick a favorite blue, but this is definitely a contender. I don't know anything about the ink or the company, so I'll just skip to the photos and the review in the photos: I decided since I was taking photos I would take photos of all the pens and ink bottles I have acquired this year since starting my addiction, but I kept the focus on the Saku for this review: If someone knows what this says on the top I would appreciate a translation: I'm no calligrapher, I havent even read a book, I just looked up letters online, so be easy on the handwriting haha. Review on HP Premium Laser 32lbs: Written with an italic dip pen: On 68gsm Tomoe River Paper vs Kobe #7 Kaikyo Blue, Bungubox Omaezaki Azure Sea, Bungubox 4B, Sailor Jentle Blue, Diamine Midnight, Diamine Blue-Black, Kobe #38 Kitanozaka "Kitano Hill" Night Blue, MIXTURE: Sailor Kiwa-guro and Sei-Boku, Pilot Iroshizuku Shin Kai, Pelikan Edelstein Tanzanite, Lamy Blue-Black: Water-resistant testing on Rhodia:These inks do ok after being left to dry for about 12-15 hours, especially considering they are not marketed to be water resistant. It does appear that there is some component of the ink remaining after putting water on it for about 30 seconds. More on Rhodia with a Brause #361: Saku Deep blue written with an italic dip pen on 90gsm Optik Paper from a Black n Red notebook vs Sailor Jentle Blue, Akkerman #5 Shocking Blue, Organics Studio Nitrogen Royal Blue, Bungubox 4B "Bung Box Blue Black", Bungubox Omaezaki Azure Sea, Kobe #2 Dock Blue, Kobe #7 Kaikyo Blue, Kobe #14 Maya Lapis, Sailor Jentle Souten:

I think some of you are aware of my quest to find my first 14k gold - nibbed pen. I have boiled down to two choices: the 2000 or 51. My intentions are to: - Have a purdy pen. - A good suit pen - A writer's pen - A fine nib - An EDC pen. - It needs to also be durable. ("Drawing" done by a green Wearever Pennant - Ink is Noodler's Polar Eel Black) Thanks in Advance, Al.

Hey Guys, I am looking for a nice practical pen for everyday use, and prolonged writing sessions in an academic environment, after examining all my options Im torn between the CP1 and the TWSBI 580. I am considering a Fine nib by the way, which one should I opt for? Many Thanks.

Hello guys, after years of writing with my Pelikan M600 I am proud to have become part of the elusive MB-community. Because there is no MB-rep in my region, I have ordered myself a 149 with a medium nib and a 146 F-nib (both in new condition) from a reputable dealer. http://i.imgur.com/rsiUvmy.jpg?1 As you can see both pens write in a very similar manner. I was told and read multiple times that a 149 F-nib may write as wide as a 146 M-nib. Strangely, it now is the other way round. I feel that the 146 writes too wide, not vice versa. Do you think this is due to a too broad nib or a too generous ink flow? Should I change the nib with another F-nib or would you advise me on switching to EF? Kind regards, VanWolff

Hello all, I was thinking of buying a new pen. After researching a bit, I settled on getting either a TWSBI 580 or a Vac700. The problem is deciding which one. I've read a lot of reviews and whatnot, but I want to hear from you guys on the topic. Any info/advice is much appreciated. Thanks!! -CJ

Hi everyone, I've decided to buy a Blue Kaweco Classic Sport with a Gold Deluxe clip and Diamine Blue Velvet but , I was just wondering what nib is smoother the fine or extra fine and is the fine fine enough to use on crappy paper ? Thank everyone

For a while now, I have had my eye on both of those pens. I've read reviews about both, but none of which help... I write unposted to start. I understand both are indeed small, that isn't really an issue though considering I write with my Scheaffer Craftsman (Thanks again Matt!) unposted. And That pen is considerably small. I will not take any nibs larger than a fine. I write too small and all nibs larger than fine, make my handwriting unreadable. So, what is the better pen to invest into? What has a smoother nib? A nicer feel in the hand? Any help is appreciated. And thank you all for taking time to read my thread! ~Phil

Hi! I was just wondering which style of notebook binding people prefer. I thought of 3 categories: wirebound, composition, and loose. Here is my view of the weakness and strength of each: Wirebound: Often perforated so sheets can be removed if needed. Could be flipped over on itself (you can make the back touch the front when writing), useful if you don't have a huge desk. The "wires" can get in your way when writing on the left page (or vice versa if you're a leftie) Composition: What happens in the book stays in the book. (pages aren't perforated and if you rips 1 page, the connecting page will also fall out) Generally speaking, no annoying 3 holes on the book. Both front and back are 1 piece (sturdiness). If you accidentally rip the binding connecting the pages and the cover, the book is trashed (the whole thing will come loose) Extraordinarily annoying rise in the center when writing, attempts to squash the pages flat will make the cover come loose or awkwardly hanging open when trying to close it. Loose: No paper underneath, so good for those who prefer the hard desk feeling. Probably the only paper recommended for the "turn-in-business" No annoying bumps in the middle like the other two. Can be lost quite easily Without something to hold the page in place, your other hand will have to accept the job of holding the paper down while writing. I personally is biased toward the wirebound method. What do you like and why?