Search the Community
Showing results for tags 'vacumatic'.
-
The other brand sections have this kind of thread, and I couldn't believe we don't have one for Parker. So here we go. What Parkers have you added to your collection lately? We have 100 years worth of pens with the Parker name, and some of us are addicted to gathering them up. I have a number of items on order, both vintage and modern, and I will mention those as they arrive over the next few weeks. But to get us started, here's the ebay photo of a P45 I just scored: Burgundy Parker 45, 14k Medium - described as NOS. In fact, that's how I found it. I was searching for gold P45 nibs. I had to grab this one because: 1. I don't have this color yet. (I am hoping it's not the same color as my red one.) 2. A gold Medium nib is my P45 sweet spot. (I do have a 14k broad nib unit on the way, too, to upgrade one of my two steel Fines.) 3. That squeeze converter alone could cost half of what I just paid for this pen, and I only have one of those. My other P45s use carts or one of the modern twist converters. So, now it's your turn. Let's keep this one going, shall we?
-
I have a Parker Vacumatic from 1944. The cap jewel is metal (stainless maybe) The clip is lose but I can't get the jewel to come out. Is it possible this isn't the original cap jewel? I see references to a parker 51 with a stainless cap jewel. Is this jewel supposed to be black and perhaps that's why it's so difficult to get out? I have seeped some of the Pensbury PENatrate potion in the space between the clip and the jewel and will let that seep for a bit. Then Ill retry some heat and see if it helps.
-
I've been at a few vacumatics lately. Some have been as easy as can be. I have this one however that has been quite the battle. I can not for the life of me get the nib section to thread out. In fact I gave up and soaked the back end in naptha so I could get the pump out which was its own battle. I did get it out and cleaned up when what happens next? I since out the barrel and in doing so the breather tube has decided to drop out. Or it's broken off but I think it's just slid out. Next step is to tap out the nib and feed and get that back together. If it isn't broken off then I suspect that's my only choice. Second question though. In the picture of the pump (which is a straightline as I understand it) I think that the flat price is intended to be right through to the other side so it shows on both sides. Can anyone correct me on that? I'll be pleased once I have this one back together and working. Thanks everyone for your help on this and the other questions I have had on these vacumatics In then pictures below you won't see the breather. It's soaking in pen flush at the moment
-
Well I struggled for a while with this. I tried all the advice I could find here. Heat cycles Took out the old sac Soaked over night Soaked overnight with pen cleaner Soaked over night with rapido-eze Naptha on the threads Patience patience patience I also use The Inky Nib collet extractor. Alas the pump finally broke unfortunately. I don't think it was my fault on the end but who knows. More experience will help as I try and restore others. Is this a common problem? I do knok that it is possible to drill it out however I think that's above my comfort level at the moment. Any advice? I have attached a picture of the result
-
Has anyone ever attempted to convert a Parker Vacumatic (Second Generation) into a cartridge-converter? I love the material of the Vacumatic but am not a huge fan of the filling system. Any tips or photos would be immensely helpful. Thanks in advance!
-
I recently acquired an emerald pearl streamlined standard second generation vacumatic. At first I thought the blindcap jewel was black, but on a closer look it’s machined from the emerald pearl celluloid, but not in the usual orientation. Is this a common thing? I'll attach some photos, but it’s difficult to capture and it’s visible only from a shallow angle.
- 6 replies
-
- vacumatic
- emerald pearl
-
(and 3 more)
Tagged with:
-
Hello, I have a parker vacumatic twist type pencil that I recently received as part of a Vacumatic FP/Pencil set (though.. they don't look like an original set as the bands don't match). The body is in excellent condition but the mechanism doesn't seem to be working. I can twist it either direction without reaching any stop and I do not see the clutch or anything extend from the tip to grip the lead. I have tried slipping lead in it but do not feel anything in the barrel to clear out so I don't think it's a lead jam. I don't see a way to take the mechanism apart for further inspection. Does anyone have any experience with these and advice on how to try to get it working? Or is there some place to buy a replacement mechanism/send it for repair? I've attached some images of the pencil and mechanism.
-
Sheaffer Lifetime Nib/Feed (Vac) - Will NOT go in (re-insert)...
Emc^2 posted a topic in Of Nibs & Tines
Hi all, I am finishing my repair of a Balance Vac, and I am trying to set the nib and feed, and they will not seat in the section far enough in! I have never had this problem before. I have attempted to reseat it about 5 times. Every time I find myself exerting more force than I believe is a proper amount and so I back off, say a few chosen words, scratch my head, knock it back out, and figure out what the hell is wrong. I have looked inside the section, I do not see any old nib edge marks to see where it was seated before (this is my fault for not doing this when I took it apart). I have rotated where I attempt to place the nib and feed when inserting it...the only other thing I can THINK of is to set the section in the freezer or fridge (for a brief few minutes) to get it to shrink and therefore expand the size of the section hole, but that is just pure speculation as I try to figure out how to get this darn thing back in. It is the nib and feed that came/original with the pen, so it's not that I am trying to replace these parts. I am out of ideas. Any suggestions? -
Parker Vac - Shadow Wave - Circa Q1 1939 - Speedline - Can I soak it!?
Emc^2 posted a topic in Parker
Hey all, I have been doing research as I recently acquired a Parker Shadow Wave (Speedline) in Golden Brown. I need to get the pen open, and in the past, I normally just soak the entire pen in distilled water for a couple days to a week or until I can get it open, but I received some advice from an individual not to the do that with this pen, but offered no explanation (other than "you just don't want to do that), so now I am not sure if I want too. I haven't had issues with soaking pens before (hard rubber oldies excluded of course--do NOT even bring water near them lol)... The Speedline button works just fine, it moves up and down. I plan to use my vac block to take that rear vac plunger out, but it's the section threads that need the soaking. I know they were most likely sealed, so before I use heat, I always like to soak the pen just to loosen things up as much as I can. This also helps with removing the nib and feed once I get the section removed--all details I am sure you all already know. So, the million dollar question is, can I soak this pen in water? Everyone has their do's and don'ts, and I was trying to search the forum for specifics, but I could not find anything that directly related to my question, so here I am asking. I appreciate it! -
Hello, I'm new to this forum and new to vintage pen repair (although not to fountain pens themselves). Rather stupidly, I learned the hard way that 1. Vacumatics are hard to repair, and 2. celluloid hates hot water. I found a replacement barrel online, and everything fits (as well as a replacement barrel could fit). But the replacement barrel is 3.5mm shorter - the original is 67mm while the replacement is 63.5mm. Does this make a difference (eg. between Long Major and Major), or is this within normal variation? (Original barrel is 1942Q3, replacement is 1946Q2) P.S. Both Vacumatics I have have "A" stamped under the feed. What does this mean?
-
Hi guys, I am looking at this pen with a lot of of interest. But I don’t want to pay over £30 for a pen that will break on me. Has anyone been using this for a while? Can you attest to their reliability? I want to try a vacuum filling system and these have the nicest body by far. I am particularly fond of the Sherry Acrylic. I know the nibs aren’t the best on this brand, but I would be willing to change it if it’s possible. I am getting more interested in custom grinds... Any advice/experiences? thanks 😊
- 52 replies
-
- penbbs 456
- penbbs
-
(and 3 more)
Tagged with:
-
I love my Parker vacumatic. Its nib is the best I’ve ever written with. It seems to be an extra fine/fine and though it doesnt have line variation like a stub or italic/ the line width isn't totally uniform and has some nice character. There is a wonderful almost pencil-like feedback. What modern pens would you recommend that have a similar feel? I’m guessing gold nibs? I’m tired of the likes of Kaweco nibs that feel like a nail and not as tactile.
-
Repair Shops That Specialize In Complete Vacumatic Restoration?
kealani posted a topic in Repair Q&A
My wife has a vintage Parker Vacumatic that is a family heirloom. Does anyone know of a repair shop with an online web page that "specializes" in "complete Parker Vacumatic restoration"?? I have seen Danny Fudge at The Write Pen mentioned here, and Ron at Main Street Pens . Are there others (other than the above) in the USA that are reputable (Vacumatics), do great work. Thanks for your help. jim -
Hi guys. Advice needed. I am repairing this slim vacumatic and when i took the plunger out, i noticed there seems to be a bit missing. the cup for the ink sac pellet to pop into. can it be repaired, as in a new pellet cup? or do i need a new plunger unit? and finally, do any of you lovely people sell the parts i would need and how can i purchase them without going against the guidelines of this forum? Pics for reference. Thanks guys n gals. love you all. Dave C.
-
I am looking for a clever idea. I do not remember when I purchased the pen. I was cleaning a Vacumatic and the retaining collar for the filler screwed off from the barrel when I went to remove the blind cap. The cap is tight on the collar and I cannot remove the cap. Inside the cap is the brass cap for the spring. I have repeatedly tried dry heat without luck. The tapered profile of the end cap is difficult to grip, even with section pliers. Has anyone comes across this problem? Any clever ideas on how to remove the collar?
-
I went to clean my Green Half-Coronet and the tip fell off the end. Looking at the pieces, I realized the celluloid had started to crystallize and decompose while stored in the converted cigar box. I have since isolated the pen and started researching the best methods to store celluloid pens. I have a Vacumatic Green/Brown Candy Stripe stored in a converted cigar box. Looking at the clear tip of the cap, I noticed slight crazing at the jewel threads (besides the usual shrinkage). Does any have any suggestions on the best method to store this pen to prevent or slow down crystallization? I am looking into buying zeolite paper to help absorb any gases. What is the best method to store pens? Any advice or recommendations are greatly appreciated
- 21 replies
-
- vacumatic
- crystallization
-
(and 1 more)
Tagged with:
-
I haven't ventured much into the world of vintage Parker pens, but after hearing endless good things about the 51, I am thinking of getting one. I am curious to know where you would recommend looking for one (best online stores) and what prices to look for. So far it looks like I could potentially get one for around $80 or so (looking for a regular sized vacumatic P51) but I want to make sure it is restored and in decent condition (I am looking on Ebay, but I have had some bad pen experiences on Ebay and I would want to make sure it is a good seller). So, what price should I look for with a P51 Vacumatic, and where should I look? (I have also been scanning classifieds but I don't see many there). Thank you for any info Edit: Likely doesn't matter, but I am okay if it doesn't have a nib in it - just might give a few more options
-
Vintage Vacumatics: Too Small For Big Hands?
senzen posted a topic in Fountain & Dip Pens - First Stop
So I'm pretty happy with my (mostly cheap) pens but from time to time I come across a few pens that I find really beautiful, like Parker Vacumatics. I have never seen one in person and it's highly unlikely I ever will, but have seen some restored ones on ebay. After almost pulling the trigger I realized these seem like smaller pens, particularly the section might be too small. I searched online but didn't find anything conclusive. So for those who have them: would a Vacumatic (say a Major) be too small for bigger hands? To give you and idea Parker Sonnets aren't very big but I find them comfortable, anything smaller like a Vector is painfully uncomfortable.- 49 replies
-
Or not ~~ interesting, like beauty, is in the eye of the beholder. This custom "51" features the following: Four “quick change” threaded cap top jewels: 1) a Solid Gold Crown – ideal to have on the pen in your pocket when going to see the dentist – this one is also of course known as the Crown Jewel; 2) .45 solid lead – ideal for high caliber meetings; 3) 9mm Brass Jacket suitable for lower caliber meetings or casual writing; 4) 146/9 Mont Blanc White Star - ideal for highly pretentious meetings with status conscious individuals or groups… etc. The stainless steel cap has been bead blasted and strongly resembles titanium. The war time Vermeil Blue Diamond clip is bent in such a fashion that it would hard if not impossible to duplicate – it is definitely crooked… but, I have not ever found it to be dishonest in any respect. The hood or shell is dark blue and the barrel is black – reminiscent of two-tone cars in the ‘50s & 60’s. The filling unit and blind cap are oversized slightly. The longer than standard ink pump rod is brass and is housed in one excellent red anodized bushing. The added vacuum pressure sort of supercharges the filling system. The end of the rod contains a silver disc with the Parker Halo encased in translucent red plastic from the Parker Model Shop – the same exact red plastic used to make the Parker T-1 red jewels – it took way too long to make but that’s just hindsight. The nib is an 18k 61 nib which was made in the UK. Don’t know the reason why but 51 and 61 nibs made in the UK are just better writers and smoother than those made in the US – just a fact. Like it – Love it – or Hate it – you’ve got to at least agree it’s interesting…? Life’s too short to always take Pens too seriously. ralph prather
-
Or not ~~ interesting, like beauty, is in the eye of the beholder. This custom "51" features the following: Four “quick change” threaded cap top jewels: 1) a Solid Gold Crown – ideal to have on the pen in your pocket when going to see the dentist – this one is also of course known as the Crown Jewel; 2) .45 solid lead – ideal for high caliber meetings; 3) 9mm Brass Jacket suitable for lower caliber meetings or casual writing; 4) 146/9 Mont Blanc White Star - ideal for highly pretentious meetings with status conscious individuals or groups… etc. The stainless steel cap has been bead blasted and strongly resembles titanium. The war time Vermeil Blue Diamond clip is bent in such a fashion that it would hard if not impossible to duplicate – it is definitely crooked… but, I have not ever found it to be dishonest in any respect. The hood or shell is dark blue and the barrel is black – reminiscent of two-tone cars in the ‘50s & 60’s. The filling unit and blind cap are oversized slightly. The longer than standard ink pump rod is brass and is housed in one excellent red anodized bushing. The added vacuum pressure sort of supercharges the filling system. The end of the rod contains a silver disc with the Parker Halo encased in translucent red plastic from the Parker Model Shop – the same exact red plastic used to make the Parker T-1 red jewels – it took way too long to make but that’s just hindsight. The nib is an 18k 61 nib which was made in the UK. Don’t know the reason why but 51 and 61 nibs made in the UK are just better writers and smoother than those made in the US – just a fact. Like it – Love it – or Hate it – you’ve got to at least agree it’s interesting…? Life’s too short to always take Pens too seriously. ralph prather
-
I have gotten a vintage Parker Vacumatic back from an unreliable repair person who was supposed to restore it. I'm not going to follow up on the repair guy, no sense in wasting time on it. The pen feed leaks and oozes ink uncontrollably. (what a mess) How do I fix this? Thanks, jim
-
Fountain Pens Events In Waterloo, On, Canada ?
MarcinEck posted a topic in Clubs, Meetings and Events
Dear Friends, I'll be in Canada all August this year, in Waterloo-Kitchener, Ontario. Can my Canadian colleagues tell me if there are any fountain pen events in this area (pen shows, meetings, etc.) in August, and if and where there are any antique shops and flea markets, where you can find pens, other writing instruments, etc... I am mainly interested in Pelikan, Montblanc, but also Parker Duofold, Vacumatic and all others. Mostly vintage pens... . I'd like to talk about fountain pens, maybe I'll buy, sell or trade something. I am also interested in pens for parts and to be repaired. I would be grateful for your information and guidance, thank you in advance. Contact me at the Forum or directly via PM -
Hi folks, I had my eye on a 51 on Ebay that only had four fairly uninformative photographs and fairly minimal description (made in Canada, Parker 51), but the nib looked potentially interesting (though a little out of focus) It could have been blurriness - or a very broad nib. I made an offer of £20, and figured at worst I would have a parts pen. Turned out to be a 1947 vac-fill 51 in reasonable condition, with a seriously broad stub nib. I've only dipped it so far, but it writes really nicely. I'm waiting for a diaphragm & shellac in the post (my last bottle of shellac dried out), and I've been soaking the nib in clean water for the last couple of days. I can't wait to get it up and running! 51 Vac, broad stub nib by Robin Inkysloth, on Flickr 51 Vac, broad stub nib by Robin Inkysloth, on Flickr
-
How To Remove Stink Perfume Smell From Vintage Fountain Pen?
kealani posted a topic in Fountain & Dip Pens - First Stop
I have just received a beautiful restored Parker Vacumatic in the mail from Ebay. Got it for $83. It has a nasty strong perfume odor on the body and cap. I tried cleaning it with windex, light laundry soap and soft sponge, and alcohol wipes. Also tried "Pet Odor Remover" which normally takes any organic smell away. And, it still reeks so bad that my hand smells from holding it. Questions: 1. Can the smell be removed? . . . How? 2. Is the smell absorbed into the plastic? 3. Should I just try to return it? Thanks for your help. jim -
It appears that there are two major versions of the pen. One appears to have a diaphragm filler like a Parker Vacumatic. Then there's what looks like a short stroke piston-fill variant. Were there problems with the vacumatic filler? I fancied one of the vac-fill 601's. My choice is not assisted by the sellers somewhat vague usage of the term 'vacumatic'.
- 4 replies
-
- wing sung
- piston filler
-
(and 1 more)
Tagged with: