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Hi, Got this pen today with a splayed nib that I'm trying to fix. It had what seemed some kind of crystal (it seemed clear, glass-like) stuck between the tines. After a bit of coaxing with a brass shim, I was able to remove most of it: And after a bit more, I was finally able to remove it completely. Whatever that thing was, it was as big as the space between the tines. Closing the tines has been quite a challenge and I'm stuck at this point after trying a few things, such as crossing the tines over and pressing them to overlap with my nails and then lying the nib on one side on a piece of hardwood, crossing over the tines and pressing with another piece of wood. This is as much as I've been able to close these darn tines: Any ideas? Thanks! Alex

Hi FPN, I have a Lamy Lx and have noticed that the nib <M> is particularly scratchy, and I am a beginner and have had it for just 4 days. In comparison to another Lx, mine is really scratchy to the point where it picks up fibres on the tip of the nib, and feels like it is dragging along the paper on some strokes (it sounds like a pencil, very much so! I notice that a downwards, upwards and right to left strokes are alright, but a left to right stroke is very scratchy. It is also scratchy for a left to right diagonal stroke. This leads me to believed that it is a misaligned nib, though I don’t know how to fix that (and what the left to right stroke being scratchy means [i.e, left tine backwards, towards, etc.] Another thing to note is that when comparing mine to another Lx, the space in between the tines on mine is smaller than that of the other one. I have sent Lamy a support message, I hope that they respond. Is it worth trying to fix it myself, as it will end my warranty (I believe). Perhaps the warranty will allow me to get a completely new nib (pen can’t be returned as it was a sale item)? Any advice on this would be greatly appreciated!

I recently bought a TWSBI mini Diamond. I also got a bottle of Monboddo's Hat. Right off the bat I noticed that after I filled it with the ink straight from the bottle using the piston, the pen didn't write immediately. Ok, then it started writing after doing some strokes. I noticed however that sometimes it hard started. Then I noticed that when I drew quicker longer lines it just didn't write at all. Then I noticed that it seemed to prefer reverse writing. I thought the tines were too much apart so I squeezed them together but there is still the same problem. I also flushed the feed and nib section with soapy water, nothing. I drew ink and flushed it multiple times, then drew water and flushed it multiple times. I don't know what is wrong, and I am asking for your help, being more experienced. I am disappointed, because I initially tried to avoid TWSBIs because of some bad things I have heard about them, and some other people convinced me that TWSBIs have improved and never had issues. This is my most expensive pen as of now, I got it as a little gift for myself after my Master's Thesis defense, and now I am thinking I wasted my money. Can you tell me how to fix this issue, why can't it keep up with quicker, longer lines, and why does it randomly stop writing? Thank you.

Hi all, I recently bought a used Parker Urban that was made in 2011 (i.e. it's a 1st series Urban). It has a 'Fine' nib that hard-starts all the time and writes like a broad nib that has been stubbed. By looking at its nib through a loupe I have found that the nib has not been re-ground poorly, but that it does have an enlarged gap between its tines. So, I would like to reduce the gap between its tines. Narrow it. Decrease the size of the gap. Ideally, as evenly as possible all along the slit. And I have no idea about how to try to do that. The feed is only a friction fit, and I have managed to pull the nib & feed out of the grip section. Now I need to know how to go about trying to get the nib's tines closer together. The nib is the same stainless steel nib that Parker puts on the Parker Vector (and put in the old series of Jotter). It is (unlike, say, the Z50 nib on a LAMY Safari) curved, so that it wraps around the feed. Because the nib is steel, trying to squeeze the tines together with my fingers has no effect whatever on the nib (although it does hurt my fingers). I was just about to try to squeeze them together with a pair of narrow-nosed pliers, but then I remembered that I am a ham-fisted and short-tempered klutz, and decided that the sensible thing to do is to ask all y'all for some advice before attempting this delicate operation. So, do any of you have any 'top tips' for how to go about attempting this? Are there any things along the lines of "DON'T try to do 'x'..." that I need to know? Do I need to leave the nib wrapped around the feed whilst futzing with it? Or should I take it off, so that I don't break any of the plastic feed-comb's 'fins' off? Should I wrap e.g. rubber bands around the jaws of the pliers? SHOULD I just cross my fingers, grit my teeth, and try to squeeze the tines together V-E-R-Y G-E-N-T-L-Y? My thanks to you in advance for your answers. Cheers, M.

1. TITLE Modification of Kaigelu 316 fountain pen using Bock type 250 nib unit (EF, stainless steel, 2-tone) and Beaufort Ink premium Ink Converter. 2. INTRODUCTION Recently, I acquired two Kaigelu 316 fountain pens which I adore, one is ivory or pearl colored with black swirls and the other is brownish colored with orange waves. The pens seem to be imitations of the more expensive Parker Duofold fountain pens. I bought them without their box from an ebay store in China, for under 20euros each (1). Figs 1a-1b 3. OBJECTIVE However, I was a little disappointed by the nib of the Kaigelu pens, which although smooth, write too broad for my liking. My one option would be to grind the pen nib, which I am currently learning how to improve at, however I am not adept at it yet. My other option would be to find a high quality replacement nib. A little web search proved that it has been difficult to find a replacement nib for this pen.(2-4) It would be great if I could fit an extra fine (EF) Bock or Jowo nib into my Kaigelu 316. 4. METHODS AND MATERIALS Unfortunately, I was unsuccessful in seperating the nib from the feed in my Kaigelu, however in trying to do so, I managed to completely remove the nib housing from the inside of the pen barrel. Please note that the Kaigelu 316 nib housing does not have any threads on its outer surface, the nib housing and the section are actually held together by friction-fit. Interestingly enough, the Kaigelu pen section does have internal threads at approximately 10mm from its nib-end, which, alas, are not engaged with the nib housing at all. It could have been that I accidentally have torn the housing threads myself, in my attempt to remove it from the pen section, but there appears to be no remnants of torn threads on the external surface of the Kaigelu nib housing at all. For owners of other Kaigelu pens, which have the nib housings attached firmly in the pen sections, it is recommended to place the pens in hot water for 4-5 minutes, and then to attempt to unscrew or remove the two pieces apart. Fig 2a-2d After measuring the nib housing dimensions, I contacted both Jowo and Bock companies. The Jowo nib housing dimensions (7.5mm in diameter) differed significantly from the Kaigelu one as pictured in the Fpnibs website (5), I was finally referred to Phil at Beaufort Ink (6), which is the Bock representative in UK (no affiliation, just a happy customer). Phil suggested that the Bock type 250 nib housing (8 mm in diameter), with a stainless steel, 2-tone nib, could perhaps fit this pen's barrel. He even emailed me a diagram with the dimensions of this nib unit which proved that this might be a good replacement option to try. Fig 3a-3c. I ordered two Bock units type 250, in EF and F nib size, in stainless steel and 2-tone color. Furthermore, I ordered the Beaufort Ink's own-marketed ink converter, which in retrospect proved very thoughtful, as the Kaigelu screw-type ink converter dimensions would not match the Bock housing's ink inlet. When the package arrived, I saw that Phil was kind enough to include some other Bock housings so I could experiment in other pen modifications too. Fig 4a-4d. Side by side comparison of the nib housings reveals that the original Kaigelu units are slightly shorter than the Bock ones. However, I was able to insert the Bock nib unit into the Kaigelu pen barrel, where it would fit perfectly. Even though the nib housing's and the barrel's threads did not engage at all, the two parts would be retained by friction fit in an excellent manner. Although Phil had suggested that I could use transparent nail polish to retrievably attach the nib housing to the pen barrel, I was amazed to find that the pen was secure enough to be used only with the two parts retained snugly together with friction fit. Alternatively, I guess I could have used shellac too, but I did not find this necessary, as it allowed me to change nib units at my own will. As far as the ink converter is concerned, it was also retained by friction-fit inside the top of the pen section in a perfect manner. The Beaufort Ink premium ink converter was not screw-retained as the original Kaigelu ink converter used to be, but it was tight enough and matched perfectly in size, so that I did not have any problem with ink leakage whatsoever. Although I am sure they had not intended on purpose, it seems as if the Beaufort Ink premium Ink Converter was perfectly crafted for this Kaigelu pen, I feel so lucky! Fig 5a-5f. 5. DISCUSSION It might also be interesting to note that the Bock nib can easily be removed from the its housing and occasionally be replaced with a Jowo EF or any other size Jowo nib, if one so desires. Here is the same Kaigelu pen with a EF Jowo nib purchased from Anderson Pens (7) in Milwalkee (no affiliation, just a happy customer). I could easily interchange the Jowo nib taken from the pictured Jinhao x450 and transfer it, back and forth, to the Kaigelu 316. Fig 6a-6b. In my experience, both EF and F Bock nibs write 'buttery' smooth, however the Jowo nib pleasantly gives a little more feedback which I personally like. This is consistent with similar findings by other fountain pen users on Fountain Pen Network (FPN) threads (8). One can write ever so slightly finer lines with the EF Jowo nib compared to the EF Bock one, using the same ink and paper, at least with the Bock and Jowo nibs at my hands. One explanation for why a Jowo nib writes a little crisper than a Bock nib might be the slightly different nib geometry at their tips. Under magnification, the Bock EF seems to have a slightly broader nib-paper contact area than the Jowo. However, if it wasn't for the Bock housing, no other high quality nib could be substituted for this pen. According to my personal experience, I can write easier with the Bock EF nib on plain paper, compared to the Jowo EF nib which somewhat “catches” on cheaper paper, and seems to write smoother on better quality paper only. Here are writing samples with the Kaigelu pen with EF and F Bock nibs and also with the Kaigelu original nib. I only wish I had a better macro lens so I could take better closeup shots of both Bock and Jowo nibs, the nib on the left is the Bock, the one on the right is the Jowo. Fig 7a-7b. Finally, other users have described the Kaigelu 316 as a heavy pen, however, I personally do not find it cumbersome to hold, as it fits my style of writing perfectly. However, if one does want to modify the weight of the Kaigelu, richardandtracy's thread on finial replacement at FPN discussing this matter might be useful.(9) The modified Kaigelu pen also seems to be 1.5 to 2 mm longer with the Bock nib compared with the original nib but this, combined with the fact that the pen is slightly back-heavy, helps with the pen's weight balance more so than not. Fig 8.1-2 Here are a quick writing sample with the Kaigelu 316 with Bock 250 EF nib, please excuse my terrible handwriting... Fig 9 6. SUMMARY A 250 Bock nib housing could be fitted inside the Kaigelu 316 fountain pen section and a Bock or Jowo nib could used alternatively, along with a Beaufort Ink premium ink converter. I have been using my modified Kaigelu 316 for three weeks now without any issues. Now that the Bock or Jowo nibs has been proven that can be fitted into this pen, other high quality #6 nibs like Edison, Goulet, Anderson, Monteverde or Franklin-Christoph could potentially be fitted successfully into this pen. I hope this was useful to other pen enthousiasts possessing or interested in acquiring a Kaigelu 316 pen. 7. DISCLAIMER As quality control varies with chinese pens in general, no warranty is given that results can exactly be reproduced with all other Kaigelu 316 fountain pens. The techniques described above are given as a guideline and can be replilcated at each one's own discretion and responsibility. There is no commercial relation or affiliation with the pen brands / stores mentioned in this article. My respects goes to all pen enthusiasts, both professional and amateur, who have toiled for the improvement of the fountain pen experience. Regards, Photios 8. REFERENCES (1) ebay store jewelry mathematics http://www.ebay.com/usr/jewelrymathematics (2) Matt Armstrong / The Pen Habit http://penhabit.com/2014/06/04/pen-review-kaigelu-316 (3) Matt Armstrong / youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5cDfBdjSaN8 (4) Stephen Brown / Writing with the Kaigelu Century Star 316, youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X_kZKo-8Pyw (5) FPNibs, Official Jowo representative in Spain, diagram with dimensions of #6 Jowo Nib Unit, and #6 EF Jowo Nib Unit, http://www.fpnibs.com/en/size-6-jowo/85-plumin-de-acero-tamano-5.html (6) Phil at Beaufort Ink / Bock UK representative, http://www.beaufortink.co.uk (7) Anderson Pens, 10 E. College Ave. Suite 112A, Appleton, WI 54911 http://www.andersonpens.com/ (8) dsolmei at FPN thread, Jowo Vs Bock - Which Do You Think Is Better And Why? https://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/topic/252283-jowo-vs-bock-which-do-you-think-is-better-and-why/ (9) richardandtracy's thread on FPN- https://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/topic/245065-kaigelu-316-acrylic-barrel-finial/

I was smoothing a few nibs today, some from modern fountain pens and some from vintage. I did notice that the final result favored the modern fountain pens and not the vintage ones, despite the fact that the same polishing method was used. Specifically I got much more buttery effect out of a plain parker IM fountain pen with a steel nib, compared to a parker 51 with a gold nib. This got me thinking whether this had to do with the tipping of the nibs and the slit cut. I imagine that modern pens take advantage of new technology which has provided better methods to apply tipping at the nib and to cut open slits for the ink to flow. Is this something that may explain the difference between the smoothness of the nibs? Meaning the parker 51 having a more "rough" (with air pockets) tipping or inner tines, due to inferior manufacturing process, compared to the one we use today.

Wow I can't believe I just risked ruining the Parker Sonnet(Gen 1 Laque Firedance) that my mom gave me, which also happens to be my first ever fountain pen. I saw that the tines were misaligned and bent the lower one, over did it 2 times(first time adjusting a nib, and it was on a pen with actual sentimental value, I know I'm stupid), had to bend it the other way around, got about 8 heart attacks, almost died of cardiac arrest, and finally did it, here are the pics. Before: https://goo.gl/KNDqVt After: https://goo.gl/Mv8ZwW

About three months ago I bought a brand new Pelikan M200 from Jet Pens. I hadn't used a fountain pen in a couple months and it was great to be back to using one. From the get-go, however, the nib's tines seemed a little uneven. The pen is usable, but it can be a little scratchier than it should, the angle of its sweet spot is a little to one side, and the one tine is visibly higher than the other. I was so stoked to be using a fountain pen again (my others were out for repairs at Fountain Pen Hospital in NYC) that I can't tell if the uneven tines have gotten worse or I just overlooked the issue when the pen was new. Needless to say, it's too late to send it back to Jet Pens. Besides, from what I read it sounds like a lot of fountain pens are said to have nib issues right out of the box, even Pelikan! I got my vintage pens back and by comparison I'm definitely noticing the uneven tines on the Pelikan even more. Should I buy a new nib as Pelikan nibs are easily swapped? I also live within an easy distance of the Fountain Pen Shop in Monrovia, California. Do any of you who've had experience with nib repairs there? (I'm a little leery as I had a weird experience there ten years ago trying to buy vintage pens said to be restored but none of which worked properly.) Should I send it out to one of the "nibmeisters" people speak so highly of on the internet? I had a Sailor repaired by Mike Masuyama once and he was great, but his prices and turnaround times seem like a bit much for as seemingly simple (or is it so simple?) an issue as uneven tines. I've been using fountain pens since 2003, but haven't had many repair issues. Apologies if this is a total rookie question, but I'd appreciate any advice. Thanks!

Earlier last week, I received a newly acquired Lamy 2000 that I purchased 'New' on eBay (here's the link I bought the pen from in case anyone's curious). All was fine with the pen, but the nib was a bit scratchy and a tad out of alignment. Being the "do it yourself" kind of guy, I figured I'd give a go at realigning the tines by using my fingertips and finger nails and to my success, I realigned the nib successfully! However, the pen does feel a bit scratchy, so I am intending on using 12,000 grit micro mesh (only) to smooth the nib out to my liking. My question is this: By purchasing my pen (new) from eBay, have I voided my warranty with Lamy (I am located in the USA, so I imagine I'll go through Lamy USA?)? By realigning the tines with my fingertips and finger nails, have I voided my warranty? By smoothing my nib out with 12,000 grit micro mesh, will I void my warranty? If I have a problem with parts of the pen NOT related to the nib, will Lamy still honor their warranty (i.e. replace a cap, fix the piston, etc...)? And lastly, if I indeed have voided my warranty by doing any of the above procedures, can, and if so, how does Lamy (and other pen manufacturers, for that matter) tell if you've voided your warranty by realigning your tines and/or smoothing your nib with micro mesh? As I'm sure any of you can assume, I am asking this question because while I want a glassy smooth feeling out of my Lamy 2000 nib, I also want to make sure I will be/can be covered in case any problems occur with my pen. Returning the pen isn't much of an option, as I don't want to have to hassle with return shipping, wait for a new pen to arrive, and receive another Lamy 2000 with a defective nib. Thank you so much for reading through this wall of text and I hope you have a great day! tl;dr: does realigning tines void warranty? does polishing nib with micro mesh void warranty? are other non-nib parts honored by warranty still? will lamy be able to tell I've realigned the tines and/or polished the nib with 12000 grit micro mesh?

isn't the housing, feed and nib suppose to fit together ? my recent purchased pens have this problems, some when pulled out from the housing the tines are prefect but when fit back together the tines mis-align. a few of them has perfect tines when fit in the housing but mis-align when removed out. and no matter what orientation i did the problem never solves. This has never happen to my other pens but that's because my other pens are all from japan (my Pilot and sailors) well known for their excellent supreme QC. hence my question / cry for help - where does the problem lies, housing inside uneven or nib tail uneven ? - any method to solve this matter ? Just in case anyone want to know I am having said problems above with my Delta DV OS, Monte verde Regatta sport, Jinhao 159, vinconti homosapien Dark age. For such expensive pen (jinhao aside) you expect it to work well ... even my preppy write better !! I don't think i will look/buy another pen from them. attached photo are my delta nib after insert into the housing the gap in between becomes wide open!

Hey all, I have a Montegrappa NeroUno Linea that I bought a few months back for my birthday. I had a few flow issues with it, but I put it down to my writing style (I'm a lefty and write hooked) and that the pen just needed flushing and/or getting used to my writing style. Fastforward to now when I took a serious look at the nib. I realised that there is an obvious gap between the tines on the nib. I'm not sure if this is normal, as the nib itself doesn't have a breather hole, but there is a definite gap between the tipping material on the nib.. I'm fairly certain that this isn't normal. I'm not a nibmeister or at all experienced with fountain pen repair. Being that this is an expensive pen (~£450), I certainly don't want to void the warranty or anything like that. There is no flow of ink between the tines unless I prime the feed, and even then it sometimes runs dry (I have flushed the pen numerous times). While it is a solution, it's not a permanent solution. Any help, guys? Really would appreciate any thoughts.

Pen: Noodler's Konrad Appalachian Pearl Flex Pen Ink: J. Herbin Rouge Opera I bought this pen from Goulet Pens via 65daigou (mail forwarder) and it came in a crushed box. While using it, I encountered endless problems; the pen perpetually railroaded, no matter how slowly I wrote and in which orientation. It railroaded at the slightest amount of encouragement! I have flushed this pen before and it only barely improved the situation. ' Upon taking a closer look, I noticed the tines and nib shape were weird-looking... for those of you who also own Konrad Flexes, is this a normal thing or do I have to get this pen replaced/fixed? some photos....

Hello all, I'm relatively new to fountain pens and have been browsing the forums for some time. I recently acquired a Visconti Homo Sapiens Crystals which at first look appeared in perfect condition. However, when looking closer, it appears as though one of the tines is slightly bent. The pen seems to have no problem writing smoothly, but if there is indeed a defect with the nib, I would prefer to have it fixed (especially while still under warranty), rather than let it go. Could anyone chime in to let me know whether it appears as though the nib needs work, or if this is just me being paranoid? Thank you all for your help, - Andrew

I have a Visconti Rembrandt with a medium nib that I stupidly let some write with without asking him if he'd ever written with fountain pens before. When he had trouble writing with it he pressed harder and ended up damaging the nib quite a bit. I managed to get the nib back to the point that it will write again, but it writes very scratchy now and the right tine seems to be a bit higher than the left one. Is there anything I can do on my own to try and fix this? I thought about trying to purchase a replacement nib but the only thing I can find online is a broad and I'd prefer a medium or a fine.

Alas, it had to have happened sometime. I bought a Pilot Urban and have had it for a little while and, of course, I love it. But today, in a lack of attention, I went to replace the cap and thrusted the pen downwards too quickly and at an odd angle. Needless to say, there was a gasp, several moments of shock, and about an hour of frantic attempts at repair. Fortunately, most of the haphazard destruction I have managed to revert, but now the tines are a bit too distant from one another, and pressing the back on something solid just doesn't seem to working. Assistance, please? Edit: I've added some photos that are less-than-perfect, but the damage is visible with a bit of eye-hole persistence.

Hello FPN, I've discovered the source of the flow issues I've been having with my HS Steel Age fountain pen. Namely, the tines are spread too far apart. I've tried pushing them together and pressing upside down, but the nib material is too springy and just reverts to the original position. Anyone have any ideas on closing this massive tine gap? Thanks in advance!

This question concerns a feather quill, rather than a fountian pen, but I'm pretty sure the concept regarding the tines is similar enough. Sometime today it would seem that the tines on my nib have become crossed. I've never had this happen before and I'm not exactly sure how I can repair it. Simple finger pressure won't work. Any ideas? Cheers!

Hello, I've recently picked up a Sheaffer Statesman and am in the process of repairing it. I have noted the nib was scratchy so I used a loupe and found one tine ever so slightly lower than the other. After aligning them I still found it scratchy so I very lightly smoothed it out, which, without ink on the nib seemed to do wonders. It didn't catch on the page as it used to. I dipped the nib in some ink and tried it out and, to my disappointment, the nib was no better then it was to begin with (scratchy with normal writing pressure, iffy flow); it only gave good ink flow with a good amount of pressure. So, I did the only thing I could think of: used a loupe paired with my camera to get an even closer look. It looks like the tines are different lengths, with the tipping material not lining up. I'm beginning to think this is the problem but I have no clue if it is. If this is the problem is it possible for me to fix it? I do not believe the nib has been ground to an oblique angle but I could be wrong. Album of photos (you can zoom in a decent amount without loosing too much detail): http://imgur.com/a/KULPY#0

Hi, I have a Platinum 3776 Century Chartres Blue with 14k medium nib. It writes nicely but upon inspection with a loupe I noticed that the tines are misaligned (see attached photo). When I took the nib and feed apart for cleaning I checked the tines again and the tines are well aligned if the nib is removed from the feed (sorry - the image is a little blurry). Looking at the feed one can see that there are small bumps in the plastic. I believe this causes the one tine to be raised compared to the other. Does anyone have a suggestion how to fix this problem? Maybe I can use a file to remove the bumps? I purchased the pen in July 2013 so I guess I could also send it back under warranty. Thank you, Jochen

Hello there, I'm experiencing something I didn't expect: the sides of my Ero's gold-plated steel nib's tines are slowly turning browner (it's really hard to catpure with a camera). It has begun, I don't know, maybe a month ago, by a very little stain, which is much bigger now than then. The surface remains perfectly smooth. Anybody knows what is happening? Thanks, Simon http://www.pixenli.com/images/mini/1387/1387523186074126900.jpgEnlarge http://www.pixenli.com/images/mini/1387/1387523200093632600.jpgEnlarge http://www.pixenli.com/images/mini/1387/1387523211095071600.jpgEnlarge http://www.pixenli.com/images/mini/1387/1387523111048285600.jpgEnlarge