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Showing results for tags 'threads'.
Found 14 results
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I just received a vintage Lady Sheaffer 903 that was supposed to be in working order and had the nasty surprise that her nib (wraparound style 14k) does not stay on her feed section. All the parts are present (the washer and rubber seal too), so I spent about an hour cleaning everything thoroughly. I needed to chase the feed threads since they were seriously gunked up. Now the threads on the nib and feed section are clean and distinct, they just don't have enough contact to screw together. What should I try next? I would like to have a permanent solution but I'm not sure if I should get the epoxy so quickly. Based upon what I cleaned out of it, I think someone had tried shellac on it before... but that clearly was not a good fix.
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<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/192670838@N04" title=""><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51088053741_90065e7a29_h.jpg" width="1600" height="1200" alt=""></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script> Hello all. I recently purchased a Montblanc 149 in red gold. What is strange is the piston threads on this pen. The pen has an 18k nib however the threads don't appear to be brass looks to almost be a whitish metal has Montblanc changed the piston threads recently? Any information would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
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I got a 2NL on the internet. The cap fit funny and then did not fit at all. I looked at the threads. The male threads on the barrel were relatively course and the female threads on the cap were fine??? So I looked at pics on the internet and for 2NLs I see both fine and course threads on the barrels? So I got stuck with a mismatched cap but does anyone know the history of why two different threads on the same model?
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I have a Conklin Crescent 20P with a cracked thread area. I just tried, for the first time, using some locktite 480 and it seems to have worked (for now). It left the exterior threads just a bit messy. Not bad and the threads work. But it would be nice to clean it up a bit. I could also do it with a brush and pick but I thought the chaser might be cleaner? So are those threads standard where I could find a thread chaser to clean them up?
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I got this beautiful little Gladiator ringtop - French make, embossed silver band, 18k nib, but I noticed that some of the threads are separated where the barrel and section meet. I'm proposing to introduce a small amount of Gorilla Glue into the cracks via an insulin syringe, and hold it in place with dental floss. We have a fly-tying magnifier, too...where did I get all this stuff? Any other suggestions or alternatives? I could send it out but it's just come back. She's a harsh mistress, this pen.
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The threads connecting the two halves of my pilot vanishing point have started to strip and some brass has been scraped off the threads, I'm worried that the threads will continue the strip until the pen is no longer usable. The threads work fine and close properly now except that there is some brass showing where some paint has fallen off. Is this a common problem or covered under warranty? The pen is only a few weeks old and has mostly just been sitting on a desk and opened occasionally to check the ink level or refill. Thanks.
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How Have Your Metal On Plastic Threaded Pens Fared Over The Years?
DevrimJan posted a topic in Fountain & Dip Pens - First Stop
Title pretty self explanatory. I have heard that threads made of differing materials tend to have the softer threads wear out over time. I know that many pen companies do this with pretty much their entire line (such as Sailor with there metal section threads screwing into their resin/ebonite barrels). Others do it with particular models (like Visconti & OMAS with certain metal sectioned pens that screw into resin caps). Does this cause the softer material to wear out over time? Is this a poor design choice? -
Just bought a Parker Vacumatic to restore. When I went to unscrew the section from the body, I found the part of the section that had the threads has basically snapped off with only one or two thread lines left on the section itself. The part that snapped off is still stuck in the body of the pen. Trying to figure out how to get it unscrewed out of the body. Does anyone have any suggestions to secure it back onto the section? Epoxy? Gorilla Glue? Or have a recommendation on where to buy a replacement section? Much thanks for help.
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I have an English Parker 61 from the early 60's whose barrel and section tend to fall apart when I open the pen. Is there anything to do about it? I have a 75 with the same problem and that has been rather easy to solve at least on a temporary basis, but the threads of the 61 are a lot finer and it does not seem like a possibility just to wrap something around the threads like I have done with the 75...
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I purchased a pre-owned 146 and was disappointed - to say the least - to find a crack nearly a whole centimeter long. It runs from the section through the threads up to the ink window. The crack seems to have been remedied as it appears to be covered in some kind of sealant. As of now the pen writes flawlessly, but could this be a source of future problems such as leaking? It is a 146 with a beautiful monotone 14k nib. Is this pen a vintage piece worth keeping or is it a $250 refund waiting to happen?
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I have this obsession with ensuring that my possessions get the longest longevity possible, and since hearing things about threads getting worn down (especially metal to plastic ones) I have been wondering if threads on my pens, even plastic to plastic, would last longer with some lubrication. The answer would have obviously been yes, but then I heard that even silicone grease will weaken plastic with time. So yeah, should I lube up the threads or not, if long term longevity is what is desired? Also, how important is it that the silicone grease in question is 100%? Silicone grease is hard to come by where I am, and the one brand I was able to find was Polypipe. Anyone have any experiences with this brand? Are there any other kinds of lubrication that may be better than silicone?
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I just bought what I think is a cx100 at the flea market (it would be my very first Esterbrook). It is a solid blue lever filler, all soft plastic including the section. The cap is loose and the threads are worn out and it came with a 9550 nib. Cost me a little less than 5 dollars. Does it sound like a cx100? Is there any hope of fixing the threads? Did I pay too much? Thanks for your help guys!
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I'm curious to know what manufacturers and models of pens have " threaded " nib & feed sections. I'm thinking about buying some pens with that feature. Thanks
